Jaguar XJ40
Tips and Tricks
From the Internet
2. Foreword
2.1 The Internet Bit
2.2 Other Stuff
2.3 The Author
3. The XJ40
4. General Advice
4.1 Bodywork:
4.2 Electrical:
4.3 Drivetrain:
4.4 Summary
5. Bodywork etc
5.1 Windows
5.2 Front Grill
5.3 Door Handles and Locks
5.4 Replacing Head Liner
6. Electrics
6.1 Engine Warning (early)
6.2 Check Engine Light
6.3 Lamp Modules
6.4 Installing Front Fog Lamps
6.5 Radios
6.5.1 Adding a CD Player
6.5.2 The LCD display only showing partial characters
6.5.3 Channels would cutting out intermittently
6.6 Lights On Warning Buzzer
6.7 Factory Alarms
6.8 Reprogramming Factory K19 Alarm
6.9 Wiring Diagram
7. Wheels and Suspension and Brakes
7.1 Hydraulic System
7.1.1 Self-Leveling Suspension
7.1.2 Brake Switches
7.1.3 ‘Pulsing’
7.2 Anti Lock Brakes
7.3 Cleaning Out Anti-lock Braking System
7.4 Steering Racks
7.5 Differential Bearings
7.5.1 Changing Bearings without removing Diff.
7.6 Changing the Differential Oil
7.7 Front Wheels and Stub Axles
7.8 Wheel Bearings
7.9 Drive Shaft
7.10 Sports Pack
8. Air Conditioning
8.1 A General Overview from an XJ-S Viewpoint
8.1.1 Air con blowers:
8.1.2 Temperature Sensors:
8.1.3 AC Computer:
8.1.4 Evaporator and drainage:
8.1.5 Electric Fan:
8.2 Temperature Sensor
8.3 Centre Vents
8.4 Vacuum Schematic Diagram
8.5 Recirculation Flap
9. Engine
9.1 Oil System
9.2 Oil Pressure Gauges
9.3 Electric Cooling Fan
9.4 Adjusting Idle Speed
10. Fuel System
10.1 Fuel Pump
10.2 Fuel Injectors
10.3 Fuel Non-Return Valve
10.4 Replacing Fuel Lines
10.5 Throttle Position Sensor
10.6 Purge Valve
11. Fault Codes
11.1 Code 3
11.2 Code 18 Fuel Fail
11.3 Code 26
11.4 Code 44
11.5 Fuel code 89
12. Accessories and Other Info.
12.1 Windscreen Washers
12.2 Seat Belts
12.3 Trim and Paint Codes
13. Appendix A
ForewordThere are a few points I’d like to make clear to anyone reading this manual.
First of all I’m only collecting the information and putting it into a book format. The information has all originally come from the Jaguar mailing list, originally [email protected] now:
For the names of those people who wrote the postings used to create this book see the appendix A.
To join the mailing list, send e-mail to:
and put either:
subscribe modern
or:
subscribe modern-digest
in the body of the message, NOT the subject.
Past postings can be accessed via searchable archives found at:
http://www.jag-lovers.org/lists/
So far the only offer to put it on the web has been from William Weismann and hopefully it will be available via:
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/downs/4487
until I can try and sort out some web pages of my own.
A used parts exchange is available at:
http://www.jag-lovers.org/HyperNews/get/jagswap.html
Technical service bulletins are available at:
http://www.alldata.com.
They offer free T.S.B. titles on line and sell T.S.B. CD ROMs.
Secondly Jaguar models do vary from country to country and year to year. Whilst I will try to note differences I can only find out about them if you tell me. If you find errors, and there will be some, let me know. Preferably by writing a short piece yourself which I can just paste right in. The more effort we all put in the better it will be.
Third, and perhaps most important, this will never be a replacement for a good workshop manual, personally I’d recommend the full Jaguar workshop manual, but a Haynes is better than nothing. No-one involved with this manual will accept any responsibility for any injuries or damage resulting from this information.
Do remember some obvious thing before you start work:
With any luck you’ll find you enjoy working on your Jaguar and you’ll find it adds to your appreciation of the car.
If you think you have anything to add to this manual please feel free to contact me by e-mail:
My e-mail is free so write away.
By snail mail:
R. Hyde
47 Athollbank Drive,
Perth
PH1 1NF
UK
By phone:
+44 (0) 1738 631885
Or fax:
+44 (0) 1738 631885
I wouldn’t advise contacting me for advice though, I have done very little work to my own XJ40, ‘cos for some reason it just refuses to break down!
Finally you’ll notice some sections have little in them or daft comments. These are areas where some considerable discussion has taken place but I either haven’t had time, or have lost the postings. Again I ask you write the section or send me any info. so I can put it in.
The Jaguar XJ40 was the result of a 10 year design exercise with the Jaguar design department attempting to best the classic design of the first generation XJ6. The XJ40 prototypes began with a body design very similar to the final result, wandered through the boxy, angular shapes which were popular in the early-1980s, before returning to the body style that we know today as the XJ40.
While the XJ40 body design was simplified greatly over that of the series III XJ6, the XJ40 electrical system became much more complex.
The early 1987/ 88 XJ40 models were the least reliable, with electrical problems such as erratic gauges, starter and fuel pump failures being very common.
Metric tires: Early XJ40’s came with metric sized tires. The metric tires tend to be more expensive and come in fewer sizes than the more common standard sized tires.
The 1990-93 years were ideal years for reliability. Improvements were made to the power seat motors, improved sealing of the trunk (less leaks) and more improvements in the electrical system.
Things to really look for are oil leaks at the right front corner of the head and rear suspension problems. The oil leak tends to be the head gasket and can be quite a problem. Look for oil between the distributor and the head. The rear suspension should be converted to standard to get rid of the hydraulics.
Overall though these cars have a very good record for keeping going with most faults being annoying and easily fixed.
Beware. XJ40 odometers can be fiddled. One method is by reprogramming the instrument pack to any desired mileage with the use of a portable computer and some specialist software. Nothing particularly new in that idea; the unscrupulous have been doing it to other makes of cars for years. However, there is an easier way the mileage recorder can be changed. Some XJ40 odometers only display their sixth digit once you reach 100,000. If you know which joint to solder, the sixth digit can be disabled permanently, wiping 100,000 off the clock! So don't forget to check the service history.
The single cam 2.9 engine found in Europe should be avoided. Its a derivative of Jaguars legendary 5.3 V12 HE; but don't let that fool you. Limp-wristed, and comparatively thirsty, the other sixes are far better in every way. Driven hard, the 2.9 pulls well, but soon runs out of puff long before its top speed. Poor bottom end torque makes town driving tiresome. Timing chains are a real problem - just 20k can render chain rattle; then the head has to come off. Watch out for blue smoke on cold takeoffs, uneven idle, pinking under load, and hesitation on acceleration.
What to Look out for when contemplating an XJ40
Few problem areas. The main rust spots are:
At the front of the door level with the base of the window, seems like the water running off the windscreen gets in here and starts it off.
The usual water traps around the chrome trimmings.
Also check for under brake master cylinder where brake fluid drips may have eaten away the paint.
Accident damage is important to look out for as well. See that the VIN# tags are still on the hood, doors and decklid.
One odd thing on the early cars (aside from the trunk water leaks) is that slamming the boot can crack the tops of the tail lamps.
This was a big problem on the 87s to 89s. HVAC Control panels like to go dead, these can cost $250 for a reconditioned unit.
The warning system, especially the ‘bulb warning’ can be erratic.
Trip computer failures on 90s and 91s, and again, the 88s and 89s had notorious gauge problems.
Basically, anything and everything CAN fail, so be sure everything is working properly.
It is worth considering that most of these problems will have occurred already, or won’t, and will already have been sorted. So long as they’re not there when you look at it you should be fairly safe.
The driveshaft carrier bearings frequently go out, these cost about $90 or so to replace from what I am told. This causes a vibration when you let off the gas. Differentials like to eat up their bearings, oftentimes, a recon. unit must be fitted. Engines and transmissions are generally reliable.
The engines can suffer from head gasket oil leaks.
Generally reliable especially if well maintained. However, unless you really know what you’re doing (and if you do, why are you reading this?) find one you feel happy with and then get it checked out by a JAGUAR mechanic.
They’re clear and see through.
Take out the inner grills (left & right) first by unscrewing two philips-headed screws each. You find them by looking up into the grille.
After removal of the inner grilles you will see two screws on each side fixing the outer shell to the body. They have 8mm heads. Reach through the opening, undo them and take off outer shell.
Be careful that no screws drop into the depth of the car's front, you will perhaps never see them again.
Since all (8) screws are set into plastic fasteners, you will have no problem with rust.
Remove the interior door trim - Remove inner handle surround, slide out wood, remove screws including the one hiding under the rubber air trunking. Remove small middle section (inside pull-handle) to reveal crosshead screw - remove. Also remove screw in red kerb light.
The window lift motor needs removing, but first use plenty of tape to hold the window to the top of the door frame to prevent the glass falling down.
Undo the four nuts that hold the lift motor (no need to unbolt the bottom channel runner).
Undo the connectors, and ease down and out the motor.
Remove the four Torx-headed bolts holding the window frame, and remove a fifth inside the door at the bottom of the front frame. (Don't worry - the frame will not drop down)
Force the frame up so that the window is clear of the weather seal (a bit of a struggle). Untape the glass, and remove. Remove frame. Remove the lock - first undo the cable/rod connections. Unplug the locks electric's (cut cable ties). Remove Torx bolts holding lock to door frame. Remove lock through bottom of the door.
To refit - reverse procedure.
Remove door Trim. (See above)
Disconnect operating arms/linkages
Disconnect multiplug (front doors)
Remove handle (two 10mm nuts)
Reverse procedure
You will find that there are thin foam backings and thick foam backings.
First step is removal of all the plastic trim pieces that hold the cardboard headboard.
Next remove the old stuff. This will be a mess, old decomposed foam everywhere.
Third get the backing out of the car into the garage/workshop. You may want to consider removing the rear windscreen for this because to get it out the back door you will have to make what looks like a rather uncomfortable bend. This mildly crimps/kinks the cardboard, but the (new) foam of the headliner will easily hide the cracks.
Sand and vacuum every last speck of old foam off the headliner. For the sun roof, remove any foam/old glue. Glue on the new headliner as per the adhesive instructions. Avoid stretching the material as much as possible.
Trim the excess material from the edges. For the sunroof hole, leave a good 3 inches (7cm) of slack (you can always take off more later). For the switch panel there are 4 little 'clips' that fit on plastic posts. These may be destroyed when you remove them, but zip nuts (they're little plates of spring metal with a hole in the middle designed to be, well, nuts - as in what a bolt goes into) make a perfect replacement.
You will need about nine feet of material. You need the length of the headliner board, plus the length of the sunroof plus an extra foot/ 30cm for 'insurance'. There was no bead or rope on the edge as it is hidden by plastic trim.
Early XJ40's had the fuelling failure disabled by taping back the BLUE-GREEN wire at the instrument pack connector. The connector is a 28 way yellow one.
Without this wire connected the engine management controller cannot send the codes to the instrument pack.
An erroneous error, #1. "Spurious crank signal" could be displayed on these early models. This was supposed to be raised when the starter is engaged and the engine rpm is over 2000rpm, or no crankshaft signal at all. Turned out it was coming on all the time, so the firmware was changed in the ecu to never check for this fault. Early NAS vehicles had the wire pulled out of the connector. No wire, no faults!
The wire can be reconnected, but expect to see this incorrect fault reported.
Check engine light can be reset by removing battery for about 15 seconds.
To see code, turn ignition off for 5 seconds.
Turn back on DO NOT START ENGINE
Push VCM button and you will see code.
The lamp modules give problems on all older XJ40s.
The first thing to note is that these modules' concern is not only monitoring bulb failures, but also switching of the bulbs themselves.
Each lamp module gets signals from the various devices like headlamp switch, brake light switch, indicator switch etc. These signals trigger relays in the modules, which switch voltage to the bulbs.
An in-built circuit checks the resistance of the bulbs, if anything abnormal is measured, it grounds one of the lines to the VCM and the warning signal in the instrument panel lights up.
Two different bulb failure signals are delivered by each module:
Indicator failure (pink)
all others (pink/grey).
When the VCM receives the indicator failure signal it changes the frequency of the audible signal, and flashing arrow on the dash when the indicators are working.
Cut the lines between module and connector. It is of course better to remove the wires from one side of the plug, not forgetting to tape them.
If you cut the cables underneath the dashboard the whole system is inoperative, but that cures the problem for sure!
Remove the wires from the plug connector, remembering to tape over the bare ends.
WARNING If the lines are cut (doesn't matter where), you won't notice any bulb failure, even if it's an indicator bulb. The frequency of the audible signal will remain constant!
These modules can be taken apart. The usual problem is poor soldering on the PCB. Resolder the joints and all should be well. If not you may need a new module, but try and swap in a working one before paying the money, they are expensive.
The front and rear modules are different, the rear having only one PCB, the front two. This is where the majority of failures occur. The ‘daughter’ board in the front modules is only held on to the mother board by means of the connector plugs. As a result the vibration eventually cracks the solder connections to these plugs. Resoldering is the answer.
Typically removing all four modules, re-flowing all solder joints and replacement can be done in around 2 hours.
1. The connectors are behind the bumper on either side. Pop out the connector unplug the male end. Open up the connector, push out the male contacts, remove the resistor that is soldered between the two contacts. Solder a wire to each of the male connectors and reinstall into the housing. The wires should be about a foot long. You can shorten them after you install the lights.
2. Install the lights using the threaded inserts on the underside of the bumper. You may have to make a pair of brackets, depending upon your lights.
3. Connect the wires. Use red/ orange as hot lead, black as ground.
4. Remove the screw holding the two halves of the light switch instrument panel. There are three tabs that hold the board into the housing. Depress the tabs and drop the board down.
There is a blank dummy panel between the flasher and rear fog lamp. Remove the panel. If you don't have a toggle "cover" for another lamp, and don't use the rear fog light, then pull the rear cover toggle upwards and off the board, move it over to the center spot, and replace the rear spot with the blank. Reinstall the board and cover.
You now have a pair of fog lamps up front that work only with the low beam headlights. They will not light up with the high beams.
The security code came on a sticker under the bonnet on the left side . It was not identified as such.
Before spending the $900 Jaguar wants for a CD player, you should be aware that the unit Jaguar sells & installs is one of the two (depending on the age of your car) basic Alpines, which you should be able to secure locally for around $300. There is a connector which comes out in your trunk which just plugs into the Alpine CD and pre drilled/tapped holes which fit the Alpine frame.
Where the LCD panel connects inside the front panel there is a row of soldered connectors. Reflow all these solder joints.
I touched up all the solder joints on the power amp portion of the radio -- that's the circuit board on the top side of the radio, just inside the metal case.
A simple 10 min. fix for anyone who has left their lights on and drained the battery.
Go to any electronics shop and pick up a 12 volt relay and buzzer. Wire the buzzer through the normally closed (NC) contacts on the relay, and wire one end of the relay coil to the negative side of the buzzer and a common ground. You need access to a circuit that is hot when the lights are on to wire the buzzer to, and an 'accessory' circuit that is hot when the ignition is on e.g. next to the lighter. The lighter has both an accessory circuit and an instrument light.
Pull it out of the dash and wire the (+) side of the buzzer to the light wire, that way the buzzer comes on when the lights are on. Wire the common ground to the ground on the lighter shell. Wire the other end of the relay coil to the hot lead for the lighter, so when the ignition switch is on the relay will be energized and the contacts will open, breaking the connection on the buzzer.
There is plenty of room to jam the stuff down into the dash before you replace the lighter. Epoxy glue can be used to glue the relay to the side of the buzzer and to cover the relay leads and solder joints
Jaguar installs a factory alarm system that tees into the harnesses instead of just being spliced on. This is a very good but expensive setup. It is made by Derringer and though the harness ''T’s'' aren't included it is a very good system. Beware of cheap systems. Excessive draw will make short work of your battery! Look for a milliamp draw rating of no more than 60-70. Have them prove it! The parasitic draw tends to sulfate the battery quite a bit quicker than normal. Also make sure that they don't add an extra door lock solenoid to actuate the door locks. Some of these idiot installers actually charge you this added solenoid that isn't required. If they actually had a little electrical knowledge they could figure out how to wire the master solenoid in instead.
.
The following are the instructions included with the alarm transmitters for 1990-? cars.
19,000 Code Transmitter Coding Instructions
THIS TRANSMITTER IS PRE-CODED. With the 19,000 code system, the Alarm ECU is programmed rather than the transmitter as with the 1988-89 system.
WHEN BOTH BATTERIES ARE DISCONNECTED (NOTED BELOW) THE ALARM ECU LOSES ALL TRANSMITTER SIGNALS.
Therefore, when programming the Alarm ECU with this transmitter ALL TRANSMITTERS FOR THIS CAR MUST BE AVAILABLE so that all 3 (or 4) can be entered into ECU memory AT THE SAME TIME.
If the owner has not brought in the two original transmitters supplied with the alarm, we recommend postponing programming until all 3 are available at the same time.
1. Ensure the original transmitters are available in addition to this unit.
2. Take note of pre-selected radio stations on AM and FM bands.
3. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the car battery.
4. Unplug the alarm system backup battery.
5. Reconnect both backup battery and car battery.
6. Alarm will chirp once per second and side lights will flash.
7. Press each of the 3 (or 4) remotes once until a total of 5 transmissions are made. Each press of a remote results in the speaker sounding once. Alarm ECU will remember a total of 5 codes, in any combination of 2 - 5 transmitters. If tone is not heard, replace the 12v transmitter battery. If good, replace transmitter with a new warranty unit.
8. When the Alarm ECU has received 5 codes from all 3 (or 4) transmitters, it will function after a door has been opened or closed.
9. Open and close a door.
10. Using each remote in turn, arm and disarm the system to ensure all transmitters are programmed in properly.
11. Re-program AM/FM radio stations.
12. Ensure the remotes are attached to car keys and labeled to avoid mix up.
XJ40 Hydraulics, System Test
Initial test
Required equipment:
Stopwatch, tape measure, and strong right leg!
Check Ride Leveling Struts
Measure height at rear fenderwell Run car above idle, check and measure rise Run at idle, check and measure rise, 5/8" is factory recommended maximum. Use 1/2" as a safety standard. Gas bladder in strut is ruptured if rise is excessive. Strut pair needs to be replaced or converted.
Check Accumulator
Run car at 2000+ RPM for 30 seconds. Shut motor off and turn key on to activate VCM. Pump pedal slowly, 3 count intervals, check the number of times before the low brake pressure warning light comes on. A fully charged accumulator will go 9 pumps. 4 pumps necessitates system check out, probable accumulator bladder failure.
Check Charge Solenoid
Continue pumping down system after previous test until pedal is rock hard. Start car and stopwatch, run at idle, observe VCM. Stop timer when low brake pressure indicator goes out. A red border can be seen if a different warning is reading on the inner screen. The red border is a background indicator of this warning. Test several times. 9 to 15 seconds is a good reading. Any longer and pump pressure could be low or charge (load) solenoid may not be seating. Common probable fault is the charge solenoid.
Pump, Charge Solenoid, Accumulator Combo Test
Run car at 2000+ RPM for 30 seconds. Return to idle. Pump brake pedal firmly and swiftly until low brake pressure light comes on. Stop at 30 pumps. Roughly 10 pumps usually signals a faulty charge solenoid (not seating). It is less likely but possible for low pump pressure or a completely discharged accumulator to fail this test. See pump test.
Hydraulic Pump Test
Disconnect line to valve block. Check pressure. Most failed pumps can be stopped off with thumb pressure. Check flow of ??? per minute???
Check Valve Test
To check discharge of hydraulic ride leveling system, charge system and measure ride height at fender lip. Recheck height after 12 hours. More than 1/8"??? sag is a sign of a faulty check valve located behind the up solenoid.
The best answer here is if you have ANY problems, replace them with non-self leveling shocks. Jaguar do a conversion kit, the following is a summary of the Jaguar Technical Bulletin and does not cover removal/ replacement on the car itself.
Having removed the assembly from the car dismantle it and rebuild the new units. I’m assuming any kit will have fairly detailed instructions on this.
Not forgetting to grease everything reassemble and tighten top nut to 23-28 ft-lbs.
Remove luggage compartment front trim panel and find the rear axle electrical connector. ( -’92 black 8 way, ‘93 white 8 way connector)
Remove the following wires:
|
Pin |
-’92 |
‘93 |
|
1 |
brown/ blue |
brown/ orange |
|
2 |
white/ slate |
white/ slate |
|
5 |
yellow/ brown |
yellow/ orange |
|
6 |
yellow/ blue |
yellow/ blue |
Tape up the wires. DO NOT remove the brake pad sensor wires.
Refit trim.
Jack up vehicle and remove self leveling struts.
Remove hydraulic crossover pipe from clips above rear subframe.
Install new assemblies.
Find valve block, (-’92 on right hand inner wing, ‘93 under front crush tube).
Disconnect rear suspension feed pipe from block.
Plug with bleed screw (part no. CAC 8293) and tighten to 12-14 ft-lbs.
Remove feed pipe from body clips.
Start engine and check valve block for leaks.
Jaguar official repair time 2 Hrs.
If there seems to be oil dripping out of the wire end of either switch attached to the accumulator the switch needs to be replaced. They are not cheap and they are two different switches so make sure you get the right one.
If you can see the pressure lines pulsing, and hear a knocking sound which varies with engine speed, you might have a sticking charge switch. That's the switch on the accumulator with the yellow-black and black-pink wires.
When low pressure is detected the switch closes, supplying a ground to the charge valve (unloader), which directs high pressure oil to the accumulator.
If the switch sticks closed the pressure builds up until the pressure relief valve opens.
You can check it by measuring the resistance to ground of the yellow-black wire when the pulsing occurs. If it is grounded then the switch is closed and that's where your problem is.
It is worth trying unscrewing them and cleaning.
Wheel sensors are the single biggest failure in the ABS. And, just for the sport of it, a few diagnostic tips:
1. The sensors get weak before they die totally. Causes intermittent "failures".
2. Proper testing requires a lab scope, and a reference pattern/amplitude. however, you can do a rough-n-tumble by hooking a AC volt meter to the unplugged sensor. Compare side to side. At the sort of speed you can spin the front wheels by hand, you should see about 1 volt. At about 0.7v, the system gets upset.
3. Ever notice how badly XJ40’s chew up the brake rotors? Well as those filings from the rotors seem to gravitate (magnetate?) to the ABS sensors. Before replacing a suspect sensor, try cleaning all of the swarf from it and the reluctor wheel.
The ABS does a two pass self test. First test is done directly at startup. When this passes, it will do the second part as soon as the car exceeds 5km/h. This second test is dynamic, firing off the pump and cycling all of the dump valves. It is audible but not too loud and creates a strange feeling if you happen to brake at the same time it does it. If the failure light comes on at any time this second test will occur again as the failure light goes out.
Move the coolant tank out of the way after disconnecting the coolant level sensor. Then remove the electric pump and accumulator and set it aside after plugging both sides of the suction line (tank to pump) and removing the output line.
Remove the hose and heater for the pcv system for easy access.
Disconnect all the electrical connections.
Disconnect the 3 brake lines and plugged both sides.
Undo the 4 nuts that hold the master cyl. and power booster to the large aluminum mount.
Remove the rubber plugs that cover the linkage pin.
Remove clip and pin.
Separate the master cyl/ booster from the mounting.
Take the valve body apart and removed the solenoid valves(6 of them) after unsoldering the connections. They are mounted in the body using O rings. Just twist and pull using pliers.
The solenoid valves have pinhole orifices with screens over the in and out parts. Ports on the side and pin holes on the flat face.
Screen rings slide over the sides on all, and 3 have screens crimped onto the faces that can be pried out using an xacto knife. The other 3 have the face screens mounted in the valve body so no need to remove them.
Blow everything out with compressed air(screens, solenoids, valve body, lines...everything).
Test the solenoids, put about 10 volts on them and they should click.
Take the booster and master cylinder apart and clean these parts as well.
Reassemble (obviously!).
Steering Racks (rebuilt exchange) should take less than 45 minutes to change. Add 15 more minutes to readjust the toe (if you measured the exact distance between tie rod ends and between one tie rod end and a chassis part (to establish the same steering wheel position you had before) prior to removing the old rack and you'll come in at just under an hour.
Unbolt the halfshaft and reposition for clearance. Undo the four or five fixing bolts and pull the output shaft out of the diff.
Small loss of oil is possible.
Don't loose the very thin shims behind the shaft. You will need a new collar, seal and bearing. You have to drill the collar and then split it or drive it off with an air chisel, then press off the old bearing and tap out the seal from the housing.
Install new seal, install housing on shaft, press on new bearing and collar at the same time.
Reinstall in diff.
Drain the gear oil out the plug on the bottom of the differential. Use a socket that fits the square plug snugly.
Then to get the new oil in, take the spare tyre out, remove the carpet liner on the back of the boot.
You can then see 2 metal plugs in the boot. Pry out the one that lines up with the differential.
Use a half inch drive extension to remove the plug in the diff.
WARM UP THE GEAR OIL in hot water and use a tube on the end of the squeeze bottles the oil comes in to fill the diff until the oil pours all over the garage floor, scream, and jam the plug back in while getting the oil all over the trunk.
Put some silicone on the boot plugs and put them back in.
Wheels are round usually with large black O-ring type covers known as tyres.
Both front and rear bearings should be cleaned and regreased at 100,000 miles at least, however it’s worth doing more often.
It’s a shaft but it can’t drive (can’t see over the steering wheel).
Here is a detailed description of what the "Sports-Pack" introduced around 1990 includes:
Front Spring rates increased by 50%
Rear Spring rates increased by 11%
"Damping retuned" to suit above
Anti-Roll Bar fattened to 23mm (58% stiffer)
Ride height reduced (15mm Front, 10mm rear)
Power Steering assistance reduced
Limited Slip Differential (Except where already fitted)
Self leveling rear suspension (Except where already fitted)
8x16" Alloys wearing 225/55 ZR 16 Pirelli P600s.
A word of warning abut this section. The header in the posting indicated that this would apply to the XJ40 as well as the XJS. The author however has an 88XJS 3.6 Manual, UK spec. so do not expect everything to be correct. I believe the A/C systems used are the same however part placement is unlikely to be similar.
From section 8.2 Temperature Sensor on page * the info. is all XJ40 specific.
See warning at beginning of section 8.1 page *.
These devices contain an electronic circuit which gives speed control for all settings but "high" This comprises a Darlington transistor 2N6284, a 68 Ohm 2.5Watt resistor, a 1N5401 diode and a small glass diode, probably 1N4148 or 1N914. All these parts are easily obtained cheaply from electronic component outlets (example; in the UK Farnell Electronic Components, +113 2636311, but ask for a catalogue to get the right order numbers).
Blowers that won't run at low speeds almost always have a failed transistor, but replacing that alone won't always fix the fault. The resistor is there to protect the transistor from voltage spikes produced by the motor, so check the value and replace if it isn't right (most hobby multimeters have an Ohms measurement feature). The small diode feeds the blower motor voltage back to the AC computer, and has steel leads which corrode away, breaking the connection and preventing the speed control from working. They can be replaced with 1N4004 types, which are much more rugged, more easily handled, and cost just a few pennies more. These diodes are fitted with their cathodes (marked by a bar on the body) towards the transistor collector (the steel case). The 1N5401 diodes are very rugged, and unlikely to need replacing.
When fitting new diodes or resistors, don't try to fit them inside the blower interior, like the originals, where they are prone to corrosion. Fit them on the solder side of the PCB (having snipped out the old parts) and then cover them with the original plastic flap using some tape.
You can also fit new brushes to the blower motors, using power drill spares filed down to the right size (Kirby's tip!). Inside the blower assembly is the high speed relay, which is also prone to dirt and corrosion. Standard car accessory shop units can be used here, but check the pinout - they may not be standard.
Considering the cost of a new unit, changing the parts mentioned above gives "as new" performance at a tiny fraction of the cost.
See warning at beginning of section 8.1 page *.
The Delanaire system uses three, all are electrically identical. They measure:
These have three wires to them, power (5Volts from the ACC), ground, and the output wire. The output voltage is very closely controlled, and varies between 2.785V at 0C, rising by 0.01V per degree. So, a sensor at 20C (about 68F) should read 2.985V, and at 30C (about 90F) should read 3.085V, and so on. These can be measured reasonably easily with a standard 20k/Volt moving needle "hobby" type multimeter, at least well enough for fault finding purposes.
See warning at beginning of section 8.1 page *.
These are often replaced erroneously. The standard of assembly of the Delanaire unit is very high (in stark contrast to the blower assembly electronics!). The board is even conformally coated, which is an expensive process meant to enhance reliability in difficult environments. As the unit sits in a nice plastic enclosure, in an air-conditioned environment, with little electrical stress, this should be one of the most reliable assemblies on the whole car! Apart from abuse by the PO, replacement of the ACC should definitely be an option of last resort!
As an example, very erratic operation of the A/C, sometimes OK, sometimes wrong settings (hot on hot days and vice versa!), sometimes no action at all may be blamed on the computer - but in fact can be due to moisture coming out of the evaporator, running down the RHS of the transmission tunnel onto the single in-line fuse holder that carries the supply current to the AC computer. The contacts corrode slightly, breaking the supply current, and giving intermittent operation of the ACC. A new inline fuse, plus fixing the drainage, will solve this problem.
See warning at beginning of section 8.1 page *.
While the blowers are out, access to the evaporator is much easier. The four short tubes which couple the evaporator body to the rubber blower ducts can be twisted slightly and removed. This allows slight access to extract some of the gunge and detritus that blocks up the drainage system, causing wet carpets, rusty floors, and other problems (see above).
See warning at beginning of section 8.1 page *.
Firstly, the Lucas connector immediately behind the front grille can become corroded and give poor contact. Same again for base connector of the control relay, on the inner LH side of the engine bay, furthest to the front. For good measure, the large round radiator switch connector (tucked under the air intake venturi) is well worth cleaning up.
Finally, the switch itself (in the inner LHS of the radiator) may need replacement as well!
Temp sensor sits behind pepper pot vent behind passenger knees.
The little fan which is supposed to suck air is very weak and the slightest obstruction will stop it starting/or turning.
Take it apart and clean it out, also clean tiny bearings.
The centre vents only open when the A/C comes on.
9.Recirculation solenoid
10.Recirculation actuator
12.Water valve solenoid
13.Water valve actuator
The re-circ. flap is driven by the push rod actuator. One is on left-hand side of left blower, right hand is on right hand side of right blower.
Actuator is small tin like object with push rod that extends up about 8-10 inches to push on flap arm.
Solenoid on center console (next to the "spare" one) drives both together. My pipe is pale blue. Suck opens flap. Small filter like thing in vacuum line is delay unit (read small hole).
If you get connection to solenoid wrong it will get stuck.
Solenoid either connects actuator line to vacuum or vents. If you reverse connections, vacuum in flap line won't release. And you'll also vent the vacuum supply (hisssss....)
Also realise that delay unit slow things down. Takes 30 seconds for it to move.
Cools and lubricates.
Lazy, but work well under pressure.
Comes on at about 105 - 110ºC. On UK models the radiator immediately behind the electric fan has rubber flaps which block air flow normally. These lift up when the fan blows.
Set the throttle plate gap to .002(.05mm). This is the gap between the throttle plate and the wall. To do this right, you should remove the throttle body and clean it with some throttle body cleaner and then set the gap. The throttle body/ plate gets gummed up from the crankcase vent being before the throttle.
After setting the gap, reassemble the throttle body and all parts, clamps, wires, etc.
Warm up car,
ac off,
transmission in park,
turn key off,
Turn key on but don't start car and wait 15 seconds then disconnect connector to iscv.
The iscv is just forward of the throttle body, close to the cruse control bellows.
turn key off,
hook up iscv connector,
turn key on but don't start car...wait 15 seconds,
disconnect iscv connector,
(your winding the iscv closed)
leaving the iscv connector disconnected, start the car.
turn the idle speed air bypass screw on the iscv using a 7\32 inch Allen wrench till the rpm is 550 to 600.
Hook up the iscv connector.
Your done.
If the static idle is not set correctly, the rpms will hunt around. The computer is only supposed to raise the idle from base due to a load, so if the base idle is not set right the computer doesn't know what to do, hence the hunting.
Not very strong ‘cos they pump fuel not iron.
Remove connector from each injector. You should be able to measure about 3 ohms between pins on each injector and open circuit to body.
They are held in by the fuel rail. There are O rings on both ends that are a snug fit (twist and PULL).
Step 1
Undo the fuel lines...on my car there was no pressure after sitting overnight. Obviously, do this job with the engine cold, no smoking, playing with matches or using candles for light. Put lots of rags under the connection points and use 2 spanners, one to hold things still and the other to turn the nuts.
Step 2
Undo all the electrical connections to the injectors and cut any wire ties. Then undo the clamps(plastic) holding the fuel hose to the rail.
Step 3
Undo the 3 or 4 bolts holding the rail to the inlet manifold. Then you can rock it back and forth while pulling it out. Then there are clips holding the injectors to the rail and the snug O rings again.
How to replace the non-return valve on the fuel pump. Always take standard safety precautions when dealing with petrol.
Car may take a few turns of the engine to start. This is more noticeable when the engine is warm.
No fuel pressure left in the fuel rail when the engine is off.
Jaguar part is about $37 and fits into the fuel pump. The fuel pump is located on the rear chassis.
Relieve fuel pressure (in case the old one is not totally shot!)
Disconnect battery.
Jack rear left hand side. Put car on axle stands. Remove left hand wheel.
You should be able to follow fuel line back to the fuel filter (just forward of the wheel arch) and then to the fuel pump which is behind wheel arch.
Get new valve ready with new copper washer on smaller end. Place container to catch petrol below pump.
Original valves required 17mm spanner. Fuel hose requires 19mm spanner. New valve required 19mm spanner.
There is a hex bolt or similar fitting off to the side of the fuel line where it enters the pump. You can use this to hold the pump and stop it turning in it's bracket.
Loosen fuel line. Holding the non return valve to prevent it rotating. Undo enough to get it loose then do it up again finger tight to stem the fuel flow (if any). Now hold pump body and loosen the non return valve.
No go back and remove fuel hose. You will still have to hold valve or it will probably unscrew instead.
Don't worry if you see something fall out of the end. You can place pipe up on spring and it won't push out too much petrol. However, valve end will by now be spewing petrol all over the place. Plug end. Hopefully, because you have already loosened it you will be able to unscrew the valve by hand (its a bit tight to get your hand in so a "dry run" may be in order)
As soon as it's out, drop it and pick up new one to stem the flow of petrol. The new one WILL stop the petrol coming out as soon as you have a couple of turns made.
Tighten up valve, holding pump body to stop rotation. Then re-attach fuel hose etc.
The purpose of loosening the valve is so that you don't have to spend time trying to undo the valve with fuel leaking out.
The bits that might fall out of the valve is a spring and ball which form the old non-return valve.
Throttle pot has two identical pots. One for gearbox and other for engine ecu.
One end of each pot is grounded by ECU (about 0V) and other end is supplied with 5V from ECU. Middle should be somewhere between 0V and 5V.
However, the idle setting should be 0.6Volts with 2thou gap on throttle body to butterfly.
It can be adjusted by loosening screws. Pot should move smoothly from 0.6V up to about 4.5V (full throttle).
Fuel code 89, purge valve.
Its supposed to put a vacuum to the charcoal canister to suck out all those nasty gas fumes that build up in the tank and go into the canister instead of the air.
Its on the drivers side, above the charcoal canister behind the headlight.
1 ...oxy sensor open circuit.
2 airflow sensor out of operating range
3 coolant temp sensor out of operating range
4 oxy sensor indicates full rich
5 throttle potentiometer/airflow sensor...
(low throttle pot signal with high airflow sensor signal)
6 throttle pot/airflow sensor......
(high throttle pot signal with low airflow sensor signal)
7 throttle pot...idle fuel adjustment failure(idle speed??)
8 intake air temp sensor...open or shorted circuit to sensor
11 Throttle pot at idle: Throttle pot idle trim out of normal range
12 Airflow meter: MAF signal out of range
14 Coolant thermistor: Resistance out of range or static during engine warm up
16 Air thermistor: Resistance out of range
17 Throttle pot: Out of range
18 Throttle pot/Airflow: Low throttle pot signal at high airflow
19 Throttle pot/Airflow: High throttle pot signal at low airflow
22 Fuel pump drive: ECU output to fuel pump relay
23 Fuel supply: Engine running too rich
24 Ignition Drive: ECU output to ignition Amp
26 Air leak: Engine running too lean
29 ECU self check
33 Injector Drive: ECU output to injectors
34 Injector: Looks for Injector dribble
37 EGR Drive: ECU output to EGR switching valve
39 EGR check sensor: EGR not working (normally pipe blocked)
44 Lambda (O2) sensor: Poor mixture control rich or weak (or misfire)
46 Idle speed Control valve: ECU output to Coil AB
47 Idle speed Control valve: ECU output to Coil CD
48 Idle Speed Control Valve: Stepper motor grossly out of position
66 Air pump: ECU output to air pump relay
68 Road speed sensor: Seen speed < 5km/h at high engine airflow
69 Drive/Neutral switch: Seen cranking in "D" or high airflow in "N"
89 Purge Valve drive: ECU output to purge valve
For UK and Middle East cars; Codes 11,12,14,16,17,18.19 and 68 will illuminate warning light. This will remain on until engine is switched off.
Catalyst (non-Federal) and Australian spec cars; Same as UK but codes 23,26 and 44 will light the warning lamp.
Federal Spec Vehicles (i.e. USA); All codes illuminate warning lamp
Code can be cleared by disconnecting battery.
Code 3 says Coolant temperature sensor.
On my 1990 the codes are different. However, on my car there are two coolant temperature sensors located almost next to each other on the thermostat housing (top front of engine).
One drives dashboard temperature gauge via dash board computer. Other is used by ECU. The latter is the problem. You can find out which is which by disconnecting each and seeing if temperature gauge goes wacky (warm engine required).
Dashboard gauge sensor has just a single wire and other has connector. If the connections look OK (e.g. remove and clean). You can measure resistance with meter. Do when engine is cold and hot. At 25C (hot day-cold engine) it should be about 2500 Ohms. Hot engine (80C) about 300 Ohms
This code is from the throttle potentiometer and air flow sensor not matching up. The sensors are telling the computer that there is no/ low air flow at wide open throttle.
I would the connections to the air flow sensor. Its the metal part between the air filter and the engine. It has a square black plastic top, and a connector on the side. Unplug the connector and clean it with contact cleaner and bend the fingers on the plug side a little bit so they close tighter. (use a lot of care here)
Often caused by leaky inlet manifold gasket.
Can’t remember what the final answer for this one was and I lost the postings.
Purge valve. See Purge Valve p*
Not uncommon, some crack along the bottom. The washer bottle is in two parts, with a rubber ring seal between the two.
You have to remove the plastic underwing protector to get at it. Watch out when getting a replacement - there are different types. It's not impossible to fix the bottle with fiberglass should you have problems getting a replacement.
Remove the two 10mm attachment bolts that hold the upper reservoir in place, twist it a little and it should pop out. The problem is a hardened ‘O’ ring which doesn’t seal properly.
Incidentally the lower reservoir holds almost a gallon of washer fluid on the headlight power wash models.
All Passive Restraint motor and winch assemblies are warrantied for life. (This may vary from country to country).
The Codes are found on a sticker located at the bottom of the left hand B-post, visible when left front door opened.
Here they are:
Trim
AFW leather Barley
ADE leather Biscuit
AFR leather Buckskin
LDY leather Saville Grey
JEF leather Isis Blue
LEG leather Warm Charcoal
CEM leather Mulberry
AEE leather Doeskin
AEM leather Magnolia
AFX cloth Cotswold Tweed
LEF cloth Cheviot Tweed
LEE cloth Pennine Tweed
AFY cloth Chiltern Tweed
Paint (up to VIN 594575)
HES Alpine Green (met)
JFE Arctic Blue (met)
CEK Bordeaux Red (met)
CEV Crimson (met)
LDP Dorchester Grey (met)
NDK Glacier White
CEH Grenadier Red
HEN Jaguar Racing Green
PDH Jet Black
HET Moorland Green (met)
AFV Satin beige (met)
MDJ Silver Birch (met)
JFJ Solent Blue (met)
MDF Talisman Silver (met)
JEX Tungsten (met)
JFG Westminster Blue
Paint (from VIN 594576)
JFE Arctic Blue (met)
PDH Black
CEK Bordeaux Red (met)
HFB Brooklands Green **
JFN Diamond Blue (met)
NDP Glacier White
CEH Grenadier Red *
LEH Gunmetal
HEV Jade Green
HEN Jaguar Racing Green *
JFG Westminster Blue
SDE Oyster (met)
TDD Regency Red
LEK Savoy Grey (met)
MDF Silver (met) **
JFJ Solent Blue (met)
AGA Satin Beige (met) *
JEX Tungsten (met)
SDD Tuscany Bronze **
* Up to VIN 629285
** From VIN 629286
As stated above I did not write much of this manual. What I have done is collect postings of questions and answers from the [email protected] mailing list, summarised the answers and typed it up. I’ve tried to keep track of all the people whose postings I have used and apologise for anyone who feels they have been left out.
So in alphabetical order the people to thank are:
Andrew Corkan [email protected]
Mike Everatt [email protected]
Andy Hutchinson [email protected]
Rex Henderson [email protected]
Stuart Johnson [email protected]
Stefan Knappe [email protected]
Fred Leeper [email protected]
Richard Mansell [email protected]
Paul Martin [email protected]
Victor Naumann [email protected]
Dick Pearson [email protected]
Bruce Segal [email protected]
Martin Sellars [email protected]
William Weismann [email protected]