
We first went to see the other side of the mountain (well, actually, by mistake) overlooking Lhotse Glacier
We set up our new North Face tent at base camp that was filled with a kind of quell. At night it was very cold (much below zero), but thanks to our new tent I wasn't a bit bothered by the cold.
The next day we went to high camp and checked the beginning of the trail. The evening at high camp was cold, but as soon as I got in my sleeping bag - it became warm.

Kagan and Island Peak in the background.

Kagan walking towards the beginning of the trail to the peak.

The next morning we woke up at around 3 in the morning to start ascending towards the peak.
It was amazing how the acclimatization works: the day before we walked the same way without almost any weight and it was hard and the next day (after sleeping high up) the climb with a lot of weight was easier. The only hard thing (excuse me for being vulgar) is shitting: there isn't enough air and I got a headache and needed to rest after it.

Again Ama Dablam at sunrise

Climbing towards the start of the snow
The beginning of the snow trail was 'just a stroll on snow' through beautiful snow/ice formations and traverses


After the 'stroll on the snow' we got to the climb. And what a climb it was. About 250 meters of climbing on 80 degrees of ice. For some reason it didn't worry me.

(the climb is marked by the black dotted line).
Kagan allowed me to do the first stage of leading and I enjoyed it thoroughly. We did it Alpine style: One belays the other while he climbs and sets up an anchor about 40 meters up (we had a 100 meter rope that we used it as a double rope). Then the other climbs to the anchor and continues to up to build the next stage, etc.

My shoe and crampon and Kagan (the dot) climbing towards me.

Me looking upwards toward Kagan

The last part after the big climb is a small climb to the peak. Actually going it down was much more scarier than climbing it up.
And finally:
The picture on the Island Peak - 6189 meters / 20305 feet
As we got to the top - the clouds started to come so we didn't get the best view possible - but it was a breathtaking view:

Everest
While rappelling (snappeling) down we were covered with mist:
Before the mist

After the mist
When we finished Rappeling (snappling) down, unroaped and started walking back: I tripped and started slidding down. In that event what you are supposed to do is jam the Iceaxe into the ice and stop. That is exactly what I did and I stopped. Unfortunatly I pulled my tendom (GID) of my shoulder. Not too bad.

At around 13:30 we crossed the last snow part on our way down after a successful accent. I was a bit disappointed from the clouds that covered our view and tried to convince Kagan to leave part of our equipment on top and to come back the next morning to see a better view. Luckily Kagan doesn't always listen to me: in the continuation of our peak tradition - it snowed the next day (it happened to us also in Arrat and in Kachkar).