Climbing to Tharpu Chuli Peak


After returning from the Kayaking, we had a hectic evening of finding porters, finding info on the climb, bribing an official for getting a permit on Friday at 21:30, etc.

Our plan was to get to ABC (Annapurna South Base Camp) in two and a half days (instead of 5-7), climb two days and go down in two days. We hired two porters so that we can walk faster to the starting point. We left in the morning for the starting point with Dhal and Kumar.
Even though we were in a rush, I had my SNATZ (Afternoon sleep) whenever I had a chance to.
At around 10 in the morning we arrived in ABC and met Dave (Bahamian), Dave (Australian) and Richard (English), that were planning to climb Tharpu Chuli the same day as we were. After a game of Volleyball we climbed to Tharpu Chuli Base camp.
The night was cold (not in our tent and sleeping bag - but outside) and we did our cooking from inside the tent
After a night that was full of roaring of Avalanches, the morning was a beautiful day with views of the Annapurna Region.
We met at the base camp a couple that was on an organized trip with almost 10 porters! We climbed from Base Camp tp High Camp.
Kagan and Tharpu Chuli.
The night at High Camp was even colder. We woke up at 2:30 in the morning to start the climb, without drinking tea since our Kerosene/Paraffin was finished. At that morning there were three expeditions that left to climb Tharpu Chuli.
We started climbing the glacier just before light and continued to the Ridge. Since we climbed Island Peak (Imja Tse), the Ridge didn't look too bad - a slope of only 55 degrees. We were tied with a ten Meter rope between us, so each one climbed almost 20 meters and then belayed the other. The climb was tiring.
When we got to the top, we walked through deep snow till we got to the start of the climb on the ridge that goes to the peak. We decided that the normal rout was too deep snowed, so we took a different rout. Dave, that saw me climbing through the deep snow described it later as if 'I was swimming through the now'. After they saw us - they decided to forgo the climb - so we were left the only Expedition to continue up to the peak.
We arrived at the False Peak, 25 meters before the actual peak. In-between us there was a knife ridge, with less than a foot wide top, that leads to the peak. The difference between climbing a ridge and climbing a knife ridge is that if one person falls, then the other needs to jump off the knife ridge in the other side. You walk on a knife ridge, afraid to fall, and think all the time that if the other one falls I will need to jump to a 600 meters fall or to a negative cliff on the other side of a few hundred meters. I was occupied with that thought of jumping all the time - it took me some time to get mentally ready for the jump. The adrenaline, just from thinking about jumping, was in high concentration in my blood. The jumping part looked scarier than the falling part. Luckily, Kagan (not I) didn't fall and we didn't need to jump to the other side.
It doesn't look scary in the picture - but it was!
Just before noon we made it to the peak. What a feeling. When we got there - one of the expeditions that didn't make it starting shouting to us from the bottom congratulation shouts. We tried to return the shouts, but were out of air.
After the good feeling and the great view of all the Annapurna Sanctuary, we started to walk back. The clouds came and on one of the sides that I was ready to jump to, you couldn't see the bottom! We crossed the knife ridge again (just as scary), and started to climb down (even scarier than climbing up).
When we arrived at Base Camp, the locals that heard we made it up to the peak, invited us to a much needed hot tea.
As our tradition continued - the next day after climbing the peak was a snowy, misty day.
On the way down we saw a Peres
We cleaned ourselves in the hot-springs that I was at five years ago (Jhinu)
This time - no censorship
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