If you notice streaking and pitting on the leaves the cause is probably due to a viral infection. Keep the plant isolated from other plants and be sure that any cutting on the plant is done with a clean blade and clean the blade well after use or get rid of it. The only way to find out for sure this is the problem is to send it out for viral testing. Get in contact with a company doing viral testing to see what is required.
You can make a net pot, for plants that require this type of pot, from the aluminum mesh that is used to cover house gutters to keep leaves from getting into them. Simply wrap the gutter screen around a can that is approximately 3 inches diameter, cut the screen to size and wire the ends together. Let the screen overlap the can by approximately 2 inches and pound the screen down over the end of the can to form the pot bottom. Line the sides and bottom of the pot with sphagnum moss if you are using a bark mix or simply fill with sphagnum moss when repotting the plant.
If your plant is showing spotting on the leaves it is most likely due to a fungus infection but this does not rule out the possibly the problem is due to a virus.  Treat the plant with a fungicide. If the problem persists, then a leaf sample can be sent for virus testing. Be aware that some orchids are prone to fungus infection and no manner what is done the problem will be with you and in that case just have to learn to live with it.
If the leaves are smaller than normal you might check for root rot or salt build up on the roots or a lack of nitrogen in the plant's diet. To solve this problem, check the roots for rot or damage. Probably best to repot no manner what is seen. If new leaves are still small increase the amount concentration in your fertilizer.
If your plant has wrinkled or very hard leaves this can be due to too much light and/or insufficient water. Check for root damage if none is seen increase water and reduce the light level some in either case it is probably well to repot.
If you see leaf tip die back it may be caused by not enough water getting to the leaf and/or salt build up in the pot and/or too much high nitrogen fertilizer. To solve this problem check roots and if rot is present report, flush pot more often with plain water or repot, cut the amount of fertilizer given (cut the concentration used) and flush the pot every so often.
If you find a brown discolored patch anywhere on the leaf usually round in shape is caused by sunburn or the leaf touching a light. This can be caused by reducing the sun light getting to the plant or remove the leaf from touching the bulb. Remove the burned area from the leaf.
If plant leaves are discolored or the leaf surface appears damaged the problem is probably due to ethylene gas exposure or spider mites. If all plants are not affected the problem is probably due to spider mites in which case you need to spray with a miticide. You may also want to increase the humidity and airflow around the plants. If nearly all of your plants have this problem then it is probably due to ethylene gas contamination. Have your furnace checked, also get rid of any decaying matter that may be around and move any ripping fruit. It takes very small amounts of ethylene gas to cause plant problems.
Soft plant growths can be caused by low light levels, and/or too much humidity and/or too much nitrogen. This problem can be solved by increasing the light, if problem is not solved reduce the fertilizer and then try reducing the humidity.
New growths that are smaller than previous growths can be caused by inappropriate culture conditions or lack of a nitrogen source the plant can use. To solve this problem check all culture conditions (humidity, temperature, light, potting mix and fertilizer) and make the appropriate adjustments.
Root rot results from over watering or the potting mix has broken down due to age. If you find you have this problem repot at once, cut away the dead roots and soak the plant in a weak solution of Physan 20 for one hour.
A potting mix that I have found works well for strap leaf paphs and phals is made using cypress mulch. The mix is 1 cu. foot cypress mulch, 3 1/2 gallon measures perlite, 3 1/2 gallon measures medium size charcoal. The mix holds moisture well and I have seen it last for 2 years with paphs seeing good root growth upon repotting after this time. I usually use the mix for only 1 year. Plants seem to grow very well in the mix feeding at my usual rate of weak weekly. You might give it a try and see if you are as pleased as I am with the mix.
Have you ever noticed black root tips on your plants? Well this is usually caused by salt buildup in the potting mix. If this is noticed, repot at once and flush the pot with water more frequently. This would be a good time to use a clean water flush. You might also reduce the amount of fertilizer used and use a non urea based mix.
If you notice poor root development in your plants this is usually caused by trace element deficiency. Giving trace elements, in the recommended amounts, can solve the problem. You may add trace elements in small amounts to your potting mix or purchase a fertilizer mix containing trace elements. People who normally water their plants with ultrapure water that is free of trace elements (RO, distilled, rain, etc) will be more likely to have this problem.
For those who grow under lights and want to increase the amount of time that the lights are on in the spring, it has been found that it is best to do this by turning on the lights earlier in the morning. As the number of hours of daylight varies by less than three hours per day in the tropics, you do not need to make major changes in the amount of time the lights are out.
Always check any new plants for critters before putting them in with your other plants. This can save you many problems with critters by removing them before they take over your entire collection. It's much easier to remove them from 1 plant than 50 plants.

Some hints to get plants ready for the Orchid show coming the first of Feb.

  • Check plants for little critters and eliminate them if found.

  • Clean leaves of spots. A good cleaner is a weak solution of milk and a cotton ball.
  • When bringing plants to show, secure flower spikes well so they don't break in transit.
  • Protect flowers from the cold by covering them while in transit.
  • Be sure to have the plant correctly labeled so tags can be made with ease.
Simply enjoy your plants during the coming new year and be sure to give that enjoyment to as many people as possible.
For those that grow Cattleys December is a good time to cut back on watering. If too much water is given while the new growth is hardening you may have the problem of water condensation within the sheath which can cause the bud primordia to rot. The sheath can be removed, if you notice condensation water within, without harm to the plant. To do this simply snip the end of the sheath to open it and peal the sheath down towards the pseudobulb.
For anyone who has Phalaenopsis Halo Lip and is having troubles
blooming it and keeping it alive you might try the following: reduce the amount
of fertilizer you give your plant primarily the high nitrogen mix. Also let the plant
get dry before you water again but keep the humidity up, remember Phals, can
take moisture directly out of the air into their roots.
Mid-February is the time to start thinking about changing to a growth
fertilizer mixture.
Instead of a tip, here is a poem. The word lan is the Chinese word for
orchid and Shin and Yu are rivers in China. This poem was written
around 500 BC in the Book of Poems.

Shin and Yu are full of water now,
For spring has come to melt the snow,
And men and women of the state wear lan now
She says to him: There let us go
To see the place. He says: No
For I have seen the place years ago,
She says again: There let us go,
There is a place beyond the river Yu
Where we can our love do....
Check those Cattlyeas for growth of new roots and when you see new roots just starting to make their appearance repot the plant. Phaps not in bloom are also ready to repot. Phals can wait till June for repotting. While repotting be sure to check for mealy bugs.
Use a wetter-sticker with your insect control agents to improve the effectiveness of these products.
Mineral and dirt spots on leaves can be removed with a mixture of milk and water (50/50). Use fresh cotton balls with each plant and wash hands between plants. (This tip is courtesy of the Columbia Orchid Club).
Remember that during hot and humid summers, the condensate from your air conditioner is an excellent source of high quality water.
I have found the following procedure to work well in getting the strap leaf Paphiopedilums to bloom. Starting in mid September I feed a blossom booster mix till the end of October. At that time the plants get only water till mid February when I start feeding a growth mixture.  From the end of October they only get water when they just get dry but I try to keep the humidity up as high as I can. This is just a suggestion you might want to try if you are having problems blooming strap leaf Paphiopedilums.
It's not a time to worry if you purchase a plant in flower, get it home and shortly after find the blossoms fade and fall.  This is often caused by a major change in growing conditions. Once it has been grown under your growing conditions the next time it flowers things should be OK. That is, if the plant gets enough water, food, light and humidity to grow well.

 



 

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