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From Dar we went to Kenya. First day a bus to Tanga, and the next morning to the border. On the border we did one stupid thing - we didn't change our money to Kenyan, because we thought the rate wasn't good. The stupid thing we didn't do in Dar was we haven't bought USDollars. The results were quite bad.
On the border they wouldn't accept any currency but US$ for visa. No way, although in the embassy they said we can use Tanzanian shillings. After long discussion, they agreed to give a 24hr permit, which means that we should go to immigration office in Mombassa and buy a visa. The office closes at 5 pm
So we went to Mombassa at quarter to 5. Banks were already close. No- one would change shillings. or rands for us except for ridiculous rates. The ATM didn't give us money in four attempts ... I stressed out, but Ela was calm. Fifth attempt worked.
Since then, everything went fine - a good dinner in a vegetarian Indian restaurant; a night bus to Nairobi; arriving to the familiar upper hill camp site; changing money to Dollars - until we got to the immigration office. There the chief said that we can't have 7 days transit visa, because we don't have onward ticket, and the border officer was wrong to let us in at all, and we should leave the country in two days ... he was the kind of guy who really wants to help you but "I can't go against to law". Eventually he did, and we're safe again.
I found a cheap flight to London ($420) with Sabena ("S_uch A B_ad E_xperience. N_ever A_gain" people say, but for $200 difference I can risk it). Ela got the Ethiopian visa after a short hassle. And Saturday morning we said goodbye. :-(
The flight was actually OK. It felt cheap, especially the Brussels-London part, but on time and short. In Heathrow I had to wait a few hours for my parents to come, and eventually they did, and we all went to my sister's house in Milton Keynes.
MK is a strange city. It is 30 years old, and completely planned to be the nicest place to live in, which makes it full of gardens and parks, but without soul. Everything is far away, and public transport is rare, and all the shops are in the centre, so you must have a car if you want to survive.
However, I stayed there one night (and did my laundry), and the next three days we all (me,sister,brother-in-law,nephew,niece,mom,dad) traveled together to Oxford and Bath and Exmoor and area. Usual English scenery, cathedrals and green grass. It was good seeing them all again and spending time together, but it wasn't much of what I call traveling. One bit of news my father brought me was that the yacht cost more than I expected (in Shekels), and I'm therefore left with about $500 in the account. I've finally reached poverty.
So last night I arrived in Bristol, said goodbye to family and landed in Leo's place. Leo is a guy I met in rainbow in Africa. He's just finished university, and so did many of his friends, and a nice party happened, and his friends are cool, and I'm happy.
Tomorrow I intend to go to Wales and visit Sam, but only if I can phone (the fax answered last time I tried). Until then - Everything is great.
Love, Moddy.
Today is a good day to think of nothing but today.
I left Bristol not so early morning, hitchhiking to Wales to visit Sam. Rainy day and the mission seemed impossible, but I made it with only three lifts, one of them took me 30 miles out of the way!
Sam lives in southern Wales, near the mountains where they took the stones for Stonehenge. There are stone circles around and everything smells of Faeries and magic. One of the magics was that she is beginning to train her horse by walking with her. We went together, and the horse pulled towards the enchanted place, and so we walked there. In the circle Sam ventured to mount the horse for the first time! The horse was so calm and relaxed, and she carried Sam all the way back (while I'm running behind).
I spent the weekend there, and went to London - hitching again. There I spent already five days, sleeping each night in another friend's place, and meanwhile wasting time by riding in buses from one side of London to the other. And it takes loads of time, especially because each one lives in another direction, and you always have to go to town centre.
The best part is that my friends in London, besides being cool (as you would expect from anyone I call 'friend'), have cool friends of their own, and therefore I can go to nice parties and nice night-outs or breakfasts. I can't do much since I'm technically broke, but I do my best.
Since my brother spent now a few days in London, my sister and family came on Saturday morning for a short visit. We didn't know much what we want to see, so we just strolled through Green Park until we saw many people waiting next to Buckingham Palace, with also BBC Maybe because in the very same moment England was playing Denmark, and the Queen watched it on big screen? No. It was just her birthday, and there was a parade! With a horse-riden marsh orchestra and carriages and soldiers and Dear Elizabeth with an awful Green outfit and a hat to match. She waved and the crowd cheered.
After THAT we walked on to Trafalgar Sq. where the REAL party went on, England flags and half naked locals frolicking in the pool. Tribal dancing and singing and drumming, just like in Zululand. Turns out that the English drink a lot and piss a lot - poor trees. The event wasn't as much celebrated in other parts of London for some reason.
I'm leaving on Tuesday to Jersey to visit Zell, and from there I go to Amsterdam and finally start learning to sail my boat. I'll be there for about two months, so if you're around, don't hesitate and visit me.
Love. Moddy.
Today is a good day to know tomorrow will be even better.
In London, I spent one day with a friend from rainbow, Emily. It was the sunniest day I ever had in England, and Hide Park was full of people sun bathing. So we also went there, offered people massage (She does Shiatsu), walked barefoot all over London and with eyes closed in the park. Amazing to feel the possible sensations when you try just to listen to nature and not see it. We stopped because I kicked some poor kid who was sitting on the ground just were I walked. As you understand we had a good time.
After saying goodbye to my friends, I set off to Jersey to visit Zell, another rainbow sister and a great friend. Going to Jersey is a big hassle, because the ferry is terribly expensive. However, we found a deal of a day-return ticket for only 10 pounds. When I checked in after the long bus ride from London, they charged me 30 pounds more to take my bag. I was furious, because you never expect to be ripped off in England, only in Tanzania. It also turned out that Zell knew about it, e-mailed me the way to get through it (send the bag in post!), but I didn't check my mail.
As you see, I arrived to the island angry and penniless, but right into the loving care of Zell. Although she had combed her dreadlocks, worked in an office and was called Wendy again, she hasn't changed much. She still poses the qualities that made me fall hopelessly in love with her last time we met. Namely, she's an angel. A light shines from her, and spreads warmth on everything in the neighbourhood.
Jersey is a strange place indeed. Very small (I cycled around it in a day), very pretty with green hills and clean sea. The whole place revolves around money, since banking is the biggest industry. And they don't like hippies or any poor people. Illegal to bask, beg, camp, or hitch hike (no-one will pick you up). I almost got arrested for smiling on cloudy day. (Not really, but Wendy was suspicious).
I stayed there almost a week. No particular reason. I didn't do much. One evening we went to a solstice party (but only the two of us came) in an old pagan place, where we found a headless bird. We had a Sunday picnic with many of Wendy's friends to celebrate something else (and found a magical fairy tree). Nice and easy time.
I left Monday morning to St. Malo in France, with Wendy promising it is easy to hitch to Amsterdam in one day. Never believe angles or faeries about hitch hiking.
On Tuesday late evening I found myself in the middle of a big interchange near Rotterdam, weary after four hours of sleep, countless hours of walking and even more standing. The friendly Dutch drove by, sometimes giving me the finger; the sun was coming down; and I was ready to spend all night there. I cursed my day, asked my magicfaerie for help, and made a deal with God. Something along the lines of "OK, I know I did some stupid things, and I understand your point. Now what good will it do leaving me here to suffer? Give me a break!".
Five minutes later I was on the way to Utrecht with a great guy who took me to a train station 20 km out of his way, helped me to buy a train ticket, and sent me off. Within half an hour I was in Rob's house, having the big excitement.
And what now? I'll stay here until late August. Rob's number is 0031-(0)20-6655840. You're welcome to call me or visit. You're also welcome to help me (and Ela) find a job here (I'm broke) and send me letters or packages or money or a guitar. (Sad to say, but it was broken in London. I still carry it hoping it can be fixed).
Love and optimism, Moddy.
Today is a good day to tell someone a true thing.
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