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Hi,
On my first day in Bariloche I realized that it is cold, and it manifested in my life as being depressed. In a few days (I had to buy shoes and clothes) I went to El Bolson for the scout�s camp, which was supposed to be in "Jardin de Paz, 50km south of El Bolson". In El Bolson, a picturesque sweet town amidst snowy mountains, the mission became a little more complicated since no one knew were Jardin de Paz is. But eventually someone knew that it is a community that lives near Epuyen, so I went to Epuyen. In Epuyen I walked about, receiving contradicting instructions where to go, until I got fed up and took a taxi.
As it happened, the Jardin de Paz community is known all around as "treze lunas" or "Mayan calendar"; community. (Once I began asking for "treze lunas" everyone knew the way). This group believes that the entire world should live according to the galactic calendar, which has 13 moons of 28 days in each year. Every day they meditate on the energies of the day according to the book in order to alter the structure of the DNA (DNA stands for "National Dyslectic Association". People are called by their Mayan sign rather than their name (I'm Dragon), and work in the kitchen according to their birthday. Very nice and generous people.
The rainbow scouts (5 of us) lived there, not doing much scouting since we were waiting for Eric, a local rainbow brother that has a car and maps and everything and all the scouting depends on him. There were short excursions but not much to take home in the evening.
It didn�t take me long to realize that I was bored, useless, freezing cold and deeply depressed. I left, looking for warmer climate, while not forgetting to lay all my depressed energy on Ela and blame her for everything that doesn�t work in my life.
I landed in Mendoza, which is 18 hours north of Bariloche 10 days ago; a big town that is the centre of the Argentinean wine industry, and is near the highest mountain in South America. I stay in the most popular hostel in town, and I don't go to any of the possible excursions and activities (trekking, paragliding, rafting, rock climbing, wineries and lots of others), but stay in the hostel and have fun. There are loads of cool people around, mostly Israelis and English. I was also lucky to meet on my first day an English guy, Oli, who has lived here over a month and has loads of local friends.
A few days ago, the people from the hostel told me that I have to leave, because my bed was booked a year ago. I had no idea why I had to leave while there are still people checking in, and got angry, saying I don�t go, and eventually slept on the couch. It turned out all right in the end - I moved to another hostel around the corner that is owned by the same people. I sleep in a quite room and spend all day in a busy environment.
I went to several parties, danced a lot and enjoyed my newly acquired ability to shake my dread locks. I love it. Last night was the craziest. It was Halloween, and Oli and me were in invited to a local party. I was a bit reluctant to go, knowing nobody there will speak English, and not having a costume, but Oli convinced me to wear my regular clothes and go as a castaway (sad but true). He went as a pirate, and had bought a toy gun, sword, hat and eye patch for the occasion.
The party was nice and small, and we left early since Oli wanted to meet some girls in a club. It turned out to be far, expensive, too crowded to meet anyone (if they were there), and huge. Being pirates, we became instantly the greatest attraction, and Oli tried to pick girls, asking to help us find our boat. I was just smiling, dancing, and trying to look sexy. My aim was to feel desirable while not cheating on Ela.
Most girls, I think, thought we were idiots. Soon enough someone grabbed my sarong off Oli's head and disappeared, leaving me upset. I was very attached to this sarong. Losing the sarong also harmed out act, since we looked a bit less like pirates. Two sweet girls who spoke a little English dumped us after they had noticed my ring. I guess Argentina is not Brasil.
And then the sun came out ... and we walked outside ... and I saw a girl dancing with my sarong on her head ... and I went there and grabbed it. She claimed it was hers for years, but is willing to give it to me as a gift. Oli was touched, and when we left an hour later they exchanged phone numbers ... so it all turned out well.
And now? No plans accept for being in Bariloche when Ela arrives.
Love, Moddy.
Today is a great day to accept that the universe knows what to give you.
Hi,
As it happened, I spent more than two weeks in Mendoza. It is very difficult to leave, since usually you party all night and wake up too late to check out. I had the extra problem of not actually knowing what I want to do. I knew I do NOT want to go trekking, and that I would like to stay in a warm place. On the other hand, Mendoza was beginning to get on my nerves, just because I stayed there for too long.
In the time was great - I met great people; I danced with beautiful girls; I set in the park and relaxed; I wrote songs; I read in dominos; I watched the rugby world cup. The theme of staying was checking out in the morning, deciding to stay another day, and then checking in - to a different hostel, since our beds were already taken.
Eventually I jumped on the opportunity to go with Oli and Mark to San Rafael, 3 hours away, and visit therefore another town. I stayed there one night, feeling down for unexplained reason, and took the bus to Bariloche.
This time, Bariloche seems nicer. The weather is usually better, though we just had two days of rain, I stayed in a better hostel (until they overbooked and sent everyone out), and I met some people I knew in Mendoza. I already went twice on day hikes, and generally feel more content with life. The only dark spot was the All Blacks losing to Australia in the Rugby World Cup. Nu Tov.
And a few days ago Ela and Sequoia came back. Sequoia is so much bigger and knows so many new tricks - she can sit by herself and she eats fruits (she loves strawberries). They were both jet-lagged, but now that a few days have passed they are better. Sequoia is still not used to me, and wants her mama all the time, but this also seems to improve.
The rainbow gathering started officially yesterday, and we go there tomorrow or the day after. I'm pretty afraid of the cold - they promised that December will be fine, but even on a clear day it is still very cold and windy. We stay in the hostel and cuddle when the wind blows.
Love you all, Moddy.
Today is a good day to cuddle.
It was awesome ... a great gathering.
I didn't expect much of this gathering. I thought it would be too small, too cold, and Ela and me would spend all the time looking after Sequoia and not be able to have any fun.
However, we arrived to this wonderful green grass patch next to a freezing cold river (I took a bath twice a week, clenching my teeth and cursing all the way through), with spring water and as much fire wood anyone can expect. On the third day of the gathering, when we arrived, there were already 40 people there. This number grew to about a hundred in a week. Many people - especially Israelis - arrived for one day or a few hours, some of them demanding to know were are the souvenir shops and food parlors, most of them not having camping gear, but they had fun as well.
There were actually two gatherings. Before full moon we just had lots of fun. Clovis built an oven and it soon produced pizzas and breads and cakes. Eric taught us African songs and capoeira. I hurt my knee and got massages from everybody. Skywalker did a sweat lodge... everything was fine. It was very cold, but we got lots of help for putting up out tipi, and we made a bed out of pine needles, so it all warmed up. There were many kids and everyone played with Sequoia. The only thing that bothered us was that basic rainbow rules were not followed - cheese was bought and served, the servers didn�t wash their hands, nobody knew what happened in the kitchen and where is the food. We had burned rice for dinner and awful porridge for breakfast... but we had fun, so who cares?
And then, just after full moon, the storm came. It rained heavily for three days. The hills near us were covered with snow and we expected it to hit us soon. The whole area was a big mud puddle and no all firewood was wet. Everyone walked barefoot since there was no escape ... Walking to the bathroom and back was coldest experience of my life. Many people found refuge in our tipi, most of them not realizing that it is our home and not a pre-set shelter for drowning people, and not even saying hello to us as they put their bags down and go to sleep on top of my guitar.
The magic was made by the few courageous brothers and sisters, who managed to cover the kitchen, start fire and actually cook meals while the rest hid in their tents. Blessed people you are!
And as the rain stopped Ela got very sick and for the following week we hardly left the tipi. We boycotted the food since we suspected its cleanliness, and began to cook for ourselves. More and more people got sick, and Ela couldn't get better since she had o feed Sequoia in the cold nights ... but we got loads of help. All the women around volunteered to look after Sequoia so we could give her in the morning to someone and expect her a few hours later without worries. Everyone gave us pills ad natural medicine - the best was vinegar socks to lower fever, and putting hot stones from the fire inside the sleeping bag (why haven�t we done it before???). One day Ela's milk became sour, and Sequoia vomited it every time. Three breastfeeding women in the gathering fed her instead for a day. It was amazing.
I got also a little sick, and it took us all three quite a long time to be well again. When we finally got out it seemed to be a new gathering. We didn�t recognize most of the people, and the energy shifted to a more relaxed and less energetic music and dancing.
But the highlight of the gathering was little dancing queen. The most smiling baby in the world, who loves reggae and dances by the fire and sings and ohms and talks and loves all the attention around her. I said there were many babies in the gathering, but none of them was as happy as my daughter. She is quite a rainbow girl.
And now ... we went for a day to town in order to rest and buy a bus ticket to Iguazu, since Ela wants to go there, and we have to book it in advance since ... these are the holidays! So we go back to the gathering tomorrow. After Iguazu we go to Bolivia and Peru and Costa Rica.
Love, and happy holidays (Xmas, Hanukah, New Year, whatever), Moddy.
Today is a good day to have a long hot shower.
Hi,
The gathering was almost over, and we came back to celebrate new years day and pack up. Big mission with all the packs, and needing to walk twice the 2km path from the road... but it was all ok.
We went to el Bolson and spent two days resting in Silvia's house. The town was full of rainbow people, and we had a good time at said goodbye to everyone. We bought after long consideration a bus ticket to Iguazu Falls (since Ela hadn't seen them yet), a full-bed bus, but it takes almost 50 hours, including 8 hours stop in Buenos Aires bus station. We expected misery.
It was tough. The magic happened when we arrived to Bs.As., and just as we try to decide what to do, we meet Roger, a rainbow brother who has an apartment in town... so we spent the time in his place, having pasta and a shower. Great luck.
We spent a long time in Iguazu. Ela went to the falls by herself, and I looked after Sequoia - first time I was alone with her for a full day. It was Ok. She screamed a little but I managed to relax her most of the time. We went together to the Brazilian side, which was as beautiful as in the first time, but much hotter. Really hot all day and all night.
It took us a long time to decide where to go next. We wanted to go to Bolivia, but there are many options - through Brazil, Paraguay, or Argentina. The decision was affected by the misinformation in the bus station. Every time we asked anything in any of the bus companies we got different answer. We finally decided to go to Salta, Argentina, but found the we will have to wait a week for a bus... or take a night low-price bus to Resistencia (half-way), and from there it is easy to take a connecting bus.
In practice, we were wrecked after this bus, and the only option to continue to Salta was another night bus, with spending all day at the bus station. But we did that and arrived in Salta. Tired but fine.
Salta was great. Nice hostel, nice people, nice market, and we even found a babysitter and went to see "lord of the rings". The hostel there makes BBQ every Wednesday and they choose the "guest of the week". Sequoia won, as "the best guest we had in 12 years. She is lovely, doesn�t eat much and doesn�t ask stupid question".
She is really adorable. Everyone loves to play with her and strangers on the street are shining with delight to see her. Her only problem now is that she doesn�t want to eat anything but breast milk. She plays with her food and may eat a small bite... but she is hungry and exhausts Ela who needs to feed her all the time.
We left Salta towards Bolivia. Though it is only 6 hours to the border, we decided to split the journey so we will not need to wake up so early. The Tourist info in Salta recommended to go early so we can catch the train that leaves the border toward Uyuni at 15:30.
WE arrived at the border at 11:00. We rushed to train station and found laughing at the idea to get tickets for the same day. "Maybe for Monday". Back to the bus station. There is no direct bus to Uyuni, but we can go to Tupisa (2hrs) and then 4 hours more to Uyuni, arriving there at night.
That was another lie. There are no buses from Tupisa to Uyuni. Only 4x4 can do it in this season, and they leave in the morning. Expensive, of course. So after 6 hours cramped with 10 passengers and a driver in a Jeep, we made it to Uyuni.
So tomorrow we might go to a 3-day tour in the famous Salar de Uyuni. Or maybe after tomorrow. It depends on Ela's headache. We plan to end it in Chile, and go down to the coast and to Arica and up to Peru. But maybe we stay in Bolivia and go to La Paz.
Love, Moddy.
Today is a good day not to believe people, especially if they try to sell you something.
Hi,
We left Salta on the way to Bolivia, and found ourselves finally in the third world. Everything is cheap. Buses arrive and go when they want. Information is inaccurate (especially about buses), and the people had never seen a white baby.
Sequoia does get more and more beautiful and cute, and I'm not just bragging - the reactions around us are unbelievable. We are forcefully grabbed in every street by curious women who want to see the baby ... some even tried to buy her. Biggest offer was a $100.
Anyway, we went to Uyuni and wanted to take a tour to the famous salt plain (biggest in the world). It was the most touristy thing Ela had ever done, and I since safari in Africa. $60 for three days in a jeep with a driver and other four travelers, all pre paid. Of course, watt you get is not what was promised. The driver/cook/guide couldn't cook, and hid snacks from us. He didn�t know much about the sites, and was always in a hurry. The sites, however, where AMAZING. (See photos in my site). The Salar itself, the lagoons, the mountains, the flamingoes, the hot springs... great.
We crossed to Chile, where we had to throw away all our food because they are afraid of diseases, and came back to first world prices. The reason to go to Chile was that out friend Denny, who is also Sequoia's godfather, was there with La Caravan. That is a rainbow spiritual caravan that started in Mexico 6 years ago and still going on, aiming for Tierra del Fuego. In the meantime they make gatherings and shows, and teach about ecology and peace and environment, etc. We stayed with them for a couple of days, and went on to Peru for Lake Titicaca, heading for a rainbow caravan meeting.
Peru is third world country with first world prices. Weird buses, strange hostels (Hot water for bath exists sometimes, and sometimes there's no water at all), and impossible to find cheap vegetarian food. I started to be hungry for beans...
Puno on the Titicaca is small and crowded. The lake is very dirty with plastic bottles float everywhere, but we enjoyed ourselves as usual. We visited the floating islands (which are mainly tourist shops), and decided to skip the rainbow meeting and go to Cuzco.
Cuzco is a very touristy city but this is the off-season, since it is supposed to rain all the time. However, we have excellent weather, not too many tourists and no Israelis at all. We stay in Elena's flat, while Elena is not at home but Hernan is. The town is lovely. Big market on Saturday that was the biggest we had ever seen (about a km of narrow street, all full of vendors). Nice atmosphere and nice people. We met many rainbows in town, and other people we know.
And we went to Machu-Picchu. We took the cheapest legal way (still, about $50 per person). On the way, we sneaked into Ollatatambo ruins without paying, only to feel that we managed not-to-pay. The Inca stone work us very impressive everywhere, and Machu-Picchu was beautiful and interesting, and is situated in amazing spot amongst high mountains and green forest. As an Israeli, However, I was disappointed. Many sites in Israel and Palestine are just as impressive, and much older, and have better stories (e.g. Mesada or Gamla), but you don�t see thousands of tourists paying $50 each to see them.
So we went back, and tomorrow we go to Lima, and a few days later we fly to Panama and make it to Costa Rica. Everything is fine. Sequoia gets more and more clinging and it drives Ela nuts because she screams anytime I try to carry her or put her down. She also refuses to put her hat on and gets either sunburned or cold. We hope this phase will pass.
Love, Moddy.
Today is a good day to complete unfinished businesses.
Hi,
We spent a few uneventful days in Lima, and flew to Panama through Bogot�, where we had nice 5 hours stop in which we went out of the airport to sit on the grass outside and eating mangos.
Panama City is a big rich banking city. We found a hotel for $15 a night - one of the poshest hotel we ever stayed in, with cable TV and very hot shower, so we thought of moving to a cheaper place, but couldn't find any. We did find the "Super Kosher", where half the products were imported from Israel, including toothpaste ... probably many Jews around. Anyway, we left as soon as possible to David City, which is an hour from the Costa Rican border. Tough 7 hours in the bus, and we almost ended up paying $12 for the worse hotel room you could think of (dirty private toilet inside the room, and everything therefore smells of shit). However, we found a better option, and the day after we took a bus to the beach.
The beach is a long strap of sand and ocean, with coconut trees which nobody wants and so we could collect as many as we want, and camping site that had long unused bamboos, so we put the tipi up. It became the main attraction of the beach and was photographed by everyone. Many rainbows were there, waiting to the beginning of the gathering. The local pub was the most unorganized place I had ever seen. They never knew what they had. They usually forgot to put drinks in the fridge and therefore often had no cold drinks. If you ordered a meal it could take a few hours to get it, and if we said we would pay later, they forgot about it - I think we paid maybe for a third of what we ate and drank there.
Anyway, after a few days we went on to San Jose, Costa Rica, with another tiring bus ride. We landed happily in the Tica Linda Anexo Hotel, a crowded house run by the helpful mama Charro and is usually full of rainbows. However, this time (as Charro said) they left to the gathering the same morning, and are very close to the Panamanian border ... where we left from in the same morning.
Then started our big embassy journey. We tried to get for Sequoia an Australian passport, an Israeli passport, a Brasilian passport, and a visa extension for Ela and Sequoia, who get only 30 days.
The Israeli consul was very friendly, but said that Sequoia doesn't appear on the computer as an Israeli citizen. Probably because Ela and me aren't registered as married yet (why is it relevant, we have no idea). They contacted Brasilia, who couldn�t help, and the Israel office, which didn't reply. We filled application form, and had to wait patiently
The Brasilian embassy seemed to be non-existent, and when we finally found it, it was closed for carnival... and anyway we didn�t expect much from them, knowing Brasilian bureaucracy.
The Australian embassy really didn�t exist, and we needed them most, because Sequoia's passport is close to being expired, and therefore we need a new one. Main problem was that there is no Australian embassy in Central America. All has to go through Mexico ... we went to the Canadian embassy to ask for form and addresses, and ended up talking with Mexico on the phone. They said we have to fly to Mexico, and eventually it turned out that there is another option - the consul from Mexico is visiting Costa Rica now, and we got an appointment with him in his 5 star hotel.
Thus started our hunt for papers and photocopies ... it ended easily except for one thing. We need an Australian to sign that he knows Sequoia since birth. There are really not many of them, and 2 are just coming to the gathering, and might make it on time....
We luckily met on the street a somewhat friend of Ela from Adelaide who somewhat knows Sequoia and he signed. Good. The new passport will arrive by mail to the Canadian embassy.
And then we tried to get visa extensions. After waiting a few hours in the migraciones, we put the form in, and were told the we HAVE to be there again on the 10th of March and collect it. We argued that Sequoia's passport might not be ready on time ... but to no avail. We had to come there. The consul promised he will do his best so we will get the new passport on the 8th.
This was two weeks ago. As soon as this paperwork was over we took the bus to the gathering, still pissed off that we have to go back in a week. We arrived to the junction of the main road at 2pm, and together with other 7 rainbows we waited for a ride to El Carmen, which is the nearest village to the gathering site. The bus broke down, so we waited five hours ... and at around 9 managed to hire a truck to take us all to the site from El Carmen. That drive took ages, and we landed surprisingly in the main kitchen.
The site is beautiful, but quite difficult. Water needed to be carried from the river to the kitchen, and filtered if we wanted to drink them. The terrain is uncomfortable for sleeping or walking, and needs lots of shoveling. And the horrible flies bite all the time. Ela counted 100 bites on my back.
There are lots of kids, and there is a kids village, which we put our tipi right next to it, and can leave Sequoia there to play with the older kids. The river is cool and refreshing to swim in, and after a few days we settled down happily and got everything sorted out. Sequoia also became accustomed to the place and is happy and funny and plays with everybody. Her new trick is "Look at the moon", which we can say to her in any language, and then she looks up, finds the moon, and points.
Full moon party was great - more than 700 people dancing next to the fire. The day after was Purim, in which me and the other Israelis made "ozney Haman" for everybody. I put on Ela's dress the whole day and everyone complemented "what a beautiful dress". Ela was upset because no one tells her "what a beautiful dress" when she wears it ...
And then (yesterday) we went back to San Jose. A long tiring journey, including 2 hours walking. Today we went to Canada Embassy to collect the passport, and found that there was a problem. They cant reach Ela's friend and confirm with him (probably because he is now on top of some mountain in Nicaragua), so we are stuck ... Sequoia has no passport at all, we lost her Brasilian ID card a few days before, and she has no official document! We went to the Israeli embassy, but still no answer from Israel (three weeks!). We went to the Brasilian, and they didn�t believe us that we left Brasil without a Brasilian passport ... at this stage me and Ela were stressed beyond possibility of thinking right. Sequoia was screaming, and eventfully the guy said "but we can make a passport. I just need 2 photos...". We ran to the photo shop and back, and he made her a Brasilian passport on the spot. Easier then easy.
With the new passport we went to Migraciones, and got an entry stamp for Sequoia on her new passport (and Brasilians can stay 90 days), and an unexplained refuse to extend Ela's visa, with a letter that she has to leave then country in 3 days.
- "But I have a visa for a
week more"
- "you have to leave in 3 days"
However, we inquired a little and it seems that if she just stays nothing will happen, she only needs to avoid cops until she leaves.
So tomorrow we hope to go back to the gathering. Maybe the day after. Except for the stress, everything is fine. We will probably not be contactable for at least a month.
Love, Moddy.
Today is a good day to do cook and eat a tasty meal.
So, we went back to the gathering. I felt very disappointed with the way things went on. It was the worse gathering I've been to. No talking circles. Low vibes. People stealing food from the kitchen. A whole crew of seasoned rainbows who made their own renegade kitchen, taking the best supplies and cooking for only 20 people. Misunderstandings. The whole supply energy was confused, with people sent to buy some things and buying other, ordering stuff we can�t pay for. Our neighbour arrived one day with 500 empanadas that an unknown hippy asked him to bring ... and we had to pay for them. We ended up with no money, with our supply trucks broken down, owing money to suppliers ...
On the personal level, Ela and me had still to deal with red tape. In hindsight, it turned up quite easy. Ela went to the border and with a $3 bribe managed to get a visa for 30 days more. Markus signed our paper for the Aussie government, and we found a guy who went to San Jose and would send it with FedEx to Mexico and we called the Israeli Embassy and they said they need our marriage certificate and we managed to arrange for it to be sent.
The stress however was too much for us, especially when Sequoia got ill with more than 39C. Ela and I were fighting all the time. Fist fighting even, and we broke up. I moved to a small tent and we took turns on looking after Sequoia, alternating each day and night. I was very cool with that. I could do whatever I wanted, walking around camp with Sequoia, chatting to people and drumming in the night without feeling that "I have to go home to my wife and kids", though I realized that I could do the same things before.
Meanwhile Sequoia ruled the kids' space with smiles. All the kids loved her, wanted to play with her and feed her, and she was quite happy. She was fussy at night, and refused to change diapers to a point that only two of us together could do it. Therefore we began to leave her without one most of the day while carrying a potty. She didn't get fully potty trained, but it did save us a lot of laundry work.
And then the rain came. The whole gathering sunk in the mud. Walking to main kitchen was a serious mission, and my tent flooded, so I moved back to the tipi. Ela and I made up again, and it seems the separation period was good for us.
The last days of the gathering were even more stressful. There was Passover night which me and the other Israelis worked hard on ... it turned out nice with a 100 curious hippies and locals watching us eating matzos. And there was the vision council - choosing where the next gathering will be. That turned out very hectic. On the ninth day we reached a consensus to go to Turkey on May 2005 and to SE Asia in Dec 05. On the tenth day there was an uproar of some people who opposed Turkey, and within a few days a new consensus was reached, that the next gathering will be in Quebec, Aug 2004, in a way that may or may not contradict the Turkey/Asia consensus ... and it confuses everybody. Ela was the main supporter of Turkey, and some of our good friends were on the opposition, and accusations and "You are ruining the rainbow" and whatever ...
I somehow realized that I see the fall of the rainbow, and it sucks. I hope something else will come soon to replace it.
Anyway, we left the gathering and went to San Jose. It was 12 days ago, and we leave tomorrow to go north - maybe to Nicaragua. We stay such a long time because all three of us got the flu. We are still recovering. Meanwhile, we picked Sequoia's Australian passport (last week) and the Israeli one (yesterday). And my plane ticket to Israel.
Yes, the rumours are right. I come home in two weeks to stay. Looking for a job, a car, etc. Ela and Sequoia will go to Quebec and afterwards they'll fly to Israel.
Love, Moddy.
Today is a good day to go back to the start.
PS. From 11-5, you can reach me at my parent�s house, 08-9415382
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