August 14, 1999
Misty low clouds were the weather for the day. I headed south on Rt. 1 with a light tailwind and rain. There were a few scenic spots that I was planning to ride to, but with the low clouds it didn't seem worthwhile. So, I just rode and rode and rode. I stopped at Staðir, for coffee and pastries and had a talk with the cook and cashier who liked the beadwork on my hydration pack. Passed through Bru and climbed high onto the heiði, along with the obligatory heiði rain. Stopped at Grabrokarhraun, a volcanic fissure/crater. Finally after 181 km I rode into Bogarness. I ran into the dutch "gripshift" couple again. They were having a fine trip too and were about to head out around the Snæfellsness penninsula, a route that I really enjoyed in 1996.Dinner was Baked Beans, an omelet, 2 rolls and jam and some pastry. What do you eat when you're cycling? ANYTHING you want...
A line up of Farmall tractors in the Hvanneyri Museum
Cub, Farmall Standard, Farmall Standard with metal tires, and a Farmall A.
August 15, 1999 Day 24
I am camped at a farm (right) north of Mt. Esja and near Hvalfjorður. This morning I had waffles and then headed the long way around to Reykjavik. I had been to Akranes in 1996 (very nice) but I wanted to see something else. I saw some signs along the road and translated them to say "farm equipment museum". I like tractors and machines so it sounded like a plan. Hvanneyri turned out to be an agricultural college. Very nice campus for 50 students per year. The museum was excellent, everything inside was in great condition. There was a handcraft shop also, where I got a wool shawl, some reindeer buttons and a reindeer horn needle case. Then I rode back and over the mountains to Hvalfjorður.With the new Akranes/Reykjavik tunnel, the road around Hvalfjorður is fairly quiet. It is also very scenic.
North of Mt. Esja
August 16, 1999
Hafnafjorður. Waffles and blueberry preserves for breakfast, again. How much more can I take? I started riding about 9:30 and traffic was light until I reached Mossfellbaer. I navigated by feel and dim memory to Halfnafjorður. I didn't like the super-big campground in Reykjavik last time I was here. The campground in Halfnafjorður is quiet and the town is much more relaxed. Took a shower, ate lunch and toured Halfnafjorudur. The Halfnafjorður Cultural Center had some nice art, especially the woodcuts of a longtime local. I also visited the Bjarni Sivertssen house, built in 1803-1805. Then the city museum, nice local history displays. During dinner a mini-van drove into the camp and disgorged NINE germans and a lot of camping equipment. They looked like circus midgets piling out of that little vehicle.
The park where the Halfnafjorður campground is situated
August 17, 1999 One more day to go.
Bus to Reykjavik. It's only 10km, but the traffic in the city is not fun for cycling. Went down to look at Iceland's whaling fleet, 4 old ships that haven't seen action in several years. Then over to Tjarn, the lake that the city hall sits on. I went to the National Gallery where my favorites were Asgrimmur Jonsson and þorarinn þorlaksson. Both post-impressionist landscape artists from the late 19th and first half of the 20th century. Then I went to Jonnson's studio/house, about 1 km away. There were several excellent large scale watercolors. The upstairs studio is still heavily spattered with paint. I also wnet ot the Arna Magnussonar Institute, which is dedicated to preserving the ancient manuscripts of Iceland. It was small, but absolutely fantastic. The works about St.þorlakson were on display (6-700 year old vellums).
Reykjavik City Hall
