ALCOHOL LINKS

NOT JUST CONNECTED TO INFORMATION BUT CONNECTED TO A SUSTAINABLE COMMUNITY :)

http://www.exolmn.com/main.htm
home page to a large scale ethanol plant that is being built in alberta in the u.s. Useful information for farmers who are wondering what direction to go in

http://www.ethanol-gec.org/index.htm
the governors ethanol coalition, again based in the u.s. but has interesting information on the large scale issues of ethanol as a fuel

http://homedistiller.org
a full and complete guide to the home distillation of alchohol. Check your countries laws before you distill your own though :)

http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel_library/ethanol_motherearth/meToC.html
a complete guide to making alcohol

My Own Homeade Wine Recipe
Here is my personal wine recipe: First you need a half gallon of 100% juice juicy juice grape juice. It is the most high quality so expect the best flavour from it. Then you need a packet of fleischmans baking yeast. It can be found at any grocery store. Now take the yeast and pour one whole packet of it in the juicy juice. Put the cap on and shake it until the yeast has broken apart. Then take the cap off. Get a ballon and cut off the part that inflate so you have a double holed peice of rubber. Put one end of the ballon around the opening of the bottle and the other end around a tube of some sort. make sure that the connection on both the tube and the opening are airtight. Then take a bottle and fill it with water. Insert the tube into the water. This tube in the water is to allow the yeast to respirate the carbon dioxide out without exposing the mixture to oxygen. If you were to expose the mixture to oxygen for an extended period of time it would beginn arobic respiration which would create a rotten egg like smell and the yeast would create vinegar and not alchohol. So make sure you connections are air tight. DO NOT REFRIGERATE. IF YOU DO THE YEAST WILL GET TO COLD TO FERMENT. After several hours your mixture will begin to fizz up. This not only normal but it is a good sign of your success. After a while bubble will begin to be emmitted from the tube in the bottle of water. This too is good. Leave tbis mixture for about two weeks. I dont give a crap if it has stopped bubbling. It is still fermenting. After two weeks remove the baloon from the top of the bottle in which the mixture resides. Now you are ready to filter your mixture. I take about 30 or more coffee filters stacked together and place them in a metal strainer of some sort. Then get a bowl and place your filtration device over it. Now pour your mixture into it and it will begin to filter out. This is a very slow proccess but you will be happy with your results. It will filter in small droplets so expect this to take about 5 hours. Patience my friend patience. Your almost there. While your mixture is filtering take the part that isnt and keeps it capped up in its bottle. For the part that is filtering try to keep a piece of plastic rap over it at air tight as you can. It does not matter if there is a little bit of space. Remeber you may have to replace your filters since the mixture can be pretty gunked up. When pouring the mixture into your filter never and I mean never allow bubbles to form. If you pour it crappily then your mixture will swish around and oxygen will be accepted into the mixture giving it a terrible smell. Once your mixture has finished filtering carefully pour it into a different and clean container. If you pour is real fast and hard it will swish oxygen bubbles into your mixture giving it a nasty ass smell. You now have a finished product. Congrats my fellow loser. This wine recipe was made by me Michael Persinger fool so no stealing please. Thanks

How to Make and Distill Your Own Alchohol
Follow these instructions and to make your own 195 proof hard liquor alchohol: So you wanna get drunk do you. Well you cant. Or at least I am reccomendinging you dont. Especcially off your own homeade alchohol. Its not because its dangerous but it is because it is illegal. UNLESS!!!! You say your are distilling the alchohol for the purpose of fuel it waves all laws banning the distillation of alchohol. You know why it's illegal. Because the government has to have their tax dollars. I have a saying. "Don't steal. The government hates competition." But hey just say your making fuel and your in the clear. So here it goes. In the following you will learn how to make 195 proof alchohol. There are intructions on how to do this and how to make the still you need for distillation. First of all you need the ingridiants. Go online and find a 6 gallon glass carboy. They are not hard to find. Then clean out your carboy with anything but make sure to get it really clean. Then go to the grocery store and buy enough packets of yeast to fill up a cup. Then get 10 pounds of sugar and pour it into your glass carboy thenfind some way to dissolve the sugar. I use a pressure washar and fill up the carboy with a high pressure water jet. This will probly dissolve most of the sugar then pour in you cup of yeast and try to dissolve that. Just try shaking the carboy back and forth. Then following the same fermentation procces at I described above let the mixture ferment for 2 weeks. No less unless you want alot less alchohol.Remeber to keep everything air tight like I said for the wine tequnique. After 2 weeks when it is finished there is no need to filter it this time. Now you are ready to distill. But first I must tell you how to make a still. This is the most expensive part about bootlegging. I am way too lazy to type up this whole thing in detail so I am going to give you some pointers then some stuff from other websites that you can read through. Ok first off the point of a still is condesing a vapor(your alchohol) back into a liquid. This can be done with a lot of copper tubing. I bought 40 feet of it. Then I took a 2 inch in diameter pvc pipe and wrapped the whole thing around that. This is your condenser. Then you bassically want to connect it to a pot using non lead soldering so that when you boil your alchohol it will go it wont leak out. Thats all I am going to say on still making. But here are some intructions for you to browse through. Remember to go on to my distilling instructions after you look at the still making intructions. Ok never mind just goto www.homedistiller.org and then click on there huge amount of info on still making. But come back here for the distillation proccess.

Distilling Your Alchohol
Distilling is the proccess where you are going to make your alchohol as pure as you can. You are removing the water and other fucils. Some saftey warnings before doing this. Ethanol alchohol is a a product of the yeasts urine. But ethylen is not the only thing produced. Another by product called methanol will be distilled out of the mixture. This is because methyl alchohol has a boiling point of 152 degrees farenhieght while ethyl alchohol has a boiling point of 173 degrees farenhight. A definit procedure for you to do is to remove the first 150 millileters of product that comes from your still. This 150 ml of product is the poison methanol and is deadly at 500ml. To drink your alchohol without discarding the first 150 ml is suicide in a way that if you drank it you would go blind permenantly.A good way to scale methanol is to discard 50ml for every 20 liters of of distilled product. A fair warning for those of you who want to drink their product. Ok then. Off to the distillation procedure. Here is a chart of boiling points.Once the still is up to temperature, and the distillate has started dripping, make sure you throw away the first 50 mL per 20 L of wash, as this may contain any methanol that is present. You should expect to collect the equivalent of approx 1L of 40% alcohol per kg of sugar used; the actual % purity will depend on the type of still you are using. Stop collecting the distillate once you notice them containing some fusels, or if the temperature gets above about 94 oC (it doesn't become "dangerous" or "deadly", just that it tastes foul). If you collect the distillate in small amounts (say 1/2 L or so), you can segregate the drinkable spirit from that with fusels in; the latter can be added to the next wash, and be collected cleanly then. "Genuine" whiskey can be made by passing a grain wash through a pot still twice. The alcohols in the wash begin to vapourise from the wash around specific temperatures. If by themselves they would be ...
Acetone 56.5C (134F)
Methanol (wood alcohol) 64C (147F)
Ethyl acetate 77.1C (171F)
Ethanol 78C (172F)
2-Propanol (rubbing alcohol) 82C (180F)
1-Propanol 97C (207F)
Water 100C (212F)
Butanol 116C (241F)
Amyl alcohol 137.8C (280F)
Furfural 161C (322F)

Once together, a mixture of several of them will be slightly different however. You no longer get them coming off seperately, but always as a mixture. Fortunately for us though, each of the species will tend to dominate around its boiling point temperature, thus we know whats "mostly" coming off at that poit. By tracking the temperature of the vapour, you have a fairly good idea when you're collecting the Ethanol your after (78-82 °C), vs when it is starting to get lean and you're into the higher alcohols. Jack adds though .. Actually, % of alcohol is a more reliable method of measuring cutoff points than temperature is. Thermometer placement in a still can cause a major difference in how the temp is read. Everyone's still is different- the % is more likely to give predictable results, where the temp can be off by more than 10F either high or low- giving the wrong results when duplication of anothers' run is being tried. Sometimes with the tails though, even the % isn't accurate enough, with smelly tails sneaking through with little apparent notice. This is when you should also let your nose guide you - collect a few drops on the back of a spoon every so often, and check what they smell like, on a regular basis. Filling the Boiler When filling the boiler, make sure you leave enough headspace above the liquid, so that if it foams up a bit, that the foam won't get pushed up the column. Typically it should only be around 3/4 full. You also want to ensure that there will be enough liquid at all times to completely cover the elements. This is particularly relevent when you've already done some "stripping" runs first, and you're now starting with something quite high in purity (eg 45%) and the reduction in volume will be greater. This really depends on what your still is like - they can all be different. The general rule is to finish distilling when the vapour temperature near the condensor is around 92-94 ° C. Depending on how much of the "tails" you collect, your spirits will aquire a different flavour. If making a neutral spirit, you wouldn't want any tails present, so you'd finish sooner (around 82 C?), however if making a flavoured spirit, you'd want a trace of them present. Note that you can always collect the tails seperately from the "middle run", and redistill them at a later date to get the ethanol from them. If your column is a very high purity one, you may infact find yourself finishing before 82 C, with only a small amount left to collect as tails after that. If you're doing a flavoured spirit, eg a schnapps or whisky, often the "cut" to finish will be based on taste rather than by temperature alone. One clue that you've gone too far is if the distillate takes on a white/milky appearance. This is because the fusels (propyls, amyls & butyls) are partialy/totally insoluble with the higher %alcohols. You won't spot them if you keep your tails separate, as they are soluble within their own family in a weak ethanol solution. You may spot them though by seeing if a drop on the end of your finger gives a sun glint, and/or feels well lubricated (the old moonshiners trick). You may also see a slight film/slick on the surface of the distillate if using a clear container. If you can see them, then you can probably smell them too. Another indication that its time to finish is when the temperature begins to fluctuate a bit. Tarvus writes : ...with my Stillmaker type reflux still, I notice that the temperature holds steady until near the end of a cut. I should note that I use a digital thermometer that registers to the nearest 1/10th of a degree fahrenheit and refreshes itself every 10 seconds. For example, near the end of the time the foreshots are exhausted and the ethanol begins running, the temp will fluctuate dramatically after having held rock steady until then. The same seems to happen at the end of the ethanol run. When I see the temp starting to get squirrely, I stop the run. Maybe I leave a bit of usable ethanol in the wash, but it's worth knowing the stuff I collect is pure! :) Let the distillate drop cleanly into the recieving vessel, so that it splashes. This will help it lose any fusels that may be present. For the same reason, it is better that the distillate is still warm to the touch, not cold. Don't put the end of the tubing under the level of the liquid, as this will cause any fusels that might be coming out as vapours to condense (and taint the flavour). Greed is a bad thing. This is what gets your mates saying that your spirits taste "off" (you stopped noticing a while back, but everyone else still comments). You are either trying to rush things (good distillate requires time & patience), or you're wringing the neck of the beast and taking the run too far. You can't get ALL the available alcohol out of the wash. The better your still (eg the more "theoretical plates" / smaller HETP it has) the better your chances, but you still run the risk of contaminating your clean spirit with the tails, and having it smell & taste bad. But heres a few things to try .. Segregate your distillate into 1L (or pint) bottles as you collect it. Work out which of them are OK, and which aren't; eg the first 2-3L might be fine, but you start noticing the tails in the last couple. Only keep the first ones for drinking, but put the other bottles aside. Either toss these in with the next wash as you go to distill it, or keep them from several runs, dilute 50/50 with water, and give them a run through the still on their own (see - you're not wasting it, just delaying when you get to keep it). This will allow you to really push the end of the run, as you won't be allowing it to contaminate your good drinking spirit (but don't get silly - stop when you can notice the fusels !). Get a better still (eg more packing, taller column, with greater reflux) The tails won't appear until quite late in the run (eg may only have to put the last 0.5L aside, not the last 2-3 L). Be patient - take the time & run the still with a higher reflux ratio (collect less, return more back down over the packing). Use more cooling water in the reflux condensor section. The still needs to run smoothly, with even temperatures. Stop it surging - the distillate should be coming out nice & steady - either a thin dribble or separate drops. Somethings wrong if its coming in spurts ; more even temperature control needed, keep the packing clean (back-flush it after every run), make sure the packing isn't too tight, have the right column size for the amount of power you're putting it (not a real skinny column with heaps of vapour going up it), don't have cool breezes blowing on the outside of the column giving spot cooling (keep the column insulated) Take the time to polish neutral spirits well. Get a batch ahead of yourself, and always have one sitting on carbon, until you need to use it.



Thanks for coming. Please dont steal any of this info you can share it and stuff but dont take cradit of stuff that isnt yours. I hope I have covered everything you wanted to know. If you have any particular questions you want to ask just email me at [email protected]

Thanks!!!

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