The Festival of Yemanjá!  Beautiful.  Probably the most impressive cultural experience of my time in South America so far.  And I feel so fortunate to have been in the little Brazilian village of Itacaré for the celebration.  Because I could really see the fervor of the celebrants and feel involved in the action!

 

First, a little history.  Like so many countries of the Americas, Brazil brought its share of slaves to her shores from Africa.  The state of Bahia is where they were most often put to work in the fields.  And after freedom in the mid 1800’s, Bahia is where their cultural influence was most felt.  Today, it is a region of Brazil with a strong African influence evidenced in its music, its dance and its religions. 

 

One part of the culture that I particularly enjoyed were the street shows of capoeira.  Capoeira is an African martial art with extremely fluid dance like movements performed to musical accompaniment presented by singers in a call and response style assisted by a host of drums and a very interesting stringed instrument.  The stringed instrument resembles a bow (as in bow and arrow) but has a resonating cup, half of a coconut shell, attached to the wood to help project the sound.  Huge crowds, locals and tourists, gather to watch the slow motion battle, almost like an incredible gymnastic presentation, that is played out between the two combatants in this martial art.  All the time accompanied, almost trance like, by the captivating rhythms and tones of the musical group.  Incredible! 

 

Oh, but this is supposed to be about Yemanjá!

 

Yemanjá is an African goddess of the sea who is honored February 2nd of each year.  In the strong, traditional fishing communities of the northeast coast of Brazil, the celebrations are particularly captivating.

 

I was awakened at about 4:30 in the morning by the pounding rhythms of the music of Clara Nunes.  She is a legendary performer in Brazil, a beautiful and generous lady who died much too young.  And her music, often singing of the beautiful coastal life and the expansive Atlantic Ocean, will live in my memory a long time.  Of course, you do tend to remember it when you are awakened by loud music that early in the morning no matter what!

 

I stumbled from bed and down the street to the Candomblé House from which the music came. Candomblé Houses are common in this part of Brazil.  They are basically churches, religious centers where it is possible to practice some of the traditional African religions.  Women are generally the overseers and leaders within each House and they each have varying degrees of secrecy with regard to their membership and their practices.  Some welcome tourists.  Some do not.  In this tiny town, Itacaré, I was welcomed. 

 

The floor of the House is covered with beautiful flowers.  The aroma is heavenly.  Popcorn is thrown about, showering down on the participants as they sing and clap and dance around and around in the House.  All are dressed in white.  They emerge from the House shortly before sunrise carrying a large, handmade, wooden model boat over their heads.  A statue of the Virgin Mary rides in the boat as the crowd moves down the street, along the shore, still singing and clapping.  They arrive at the large Catholic Church where they pay homage on the front steps as the sun rises, then turn around and head back to their House.  A breakfast, all white in color, made up of hot coconut milk with white corn in it, is shared by the happy participants.  Then peace and calm returns to the neighborhood.

 

I feel like I have witnessed something incredible.  But, I am assured, the best is yet to come!

 

Late afternoon the festivities begin again, with dancing and singing in the House. More popcorn.  And perfume to sprinkle through the air, dowsing all of us!  Outside, firecrackers begin exploding and the procession emerges from the House again.  This time the procession is led by girls carrying large, colorful flags.  A group of older women follow carrying a mermaid statue followed by the men carrying the boat with the Virgin Mary statue riding above them.  As in the morning, all are dressed in white.  Next, a little girl carrying a tall mirror, almost as tall as she is, follows the procession.  Then three women carrying the two tubs of gifts which will be offered to Yemanjá and one tub of popcorn!  The gifts include all types of bright and colorful trinkets, little pocket mirrors, bottles of perfume.  And all of these gifts are being carried down the shore line, accompanied by singing and drumming, to the harbor. 

 

As we reach the harbor, the celebrants crowd onto two boats with all of their items of worship and shove off to take the gifts out to sea.  There they will be given to Yemanjá, offered to the warm ocean currents, with prayers for blessings of safety for the fishermen and bountiful catches.

 

The fervor of the participants, the colorful processions, the incredible drumming and singing, have all combined to create an incredible memory.  A memory of joy and celebration, of simple trust and of incredible pride.  A pride in the rich traditions of this culture.  I feel blessed to have been a part!

 

Oh, and I went out and bought a CD of the music of Clara Nunes.  But I still can’t bring myself to play it before noon!