"Getting Started in Whitewater (Kayaking)"
why do whitewater	 I. Up to each of you to decide.
A.	Thrill
	initially this may seem the most obvious reason to participate in what many call a 'risk' sport;
	for most who participate, I think the pure adrenaline rush/thrill factor is only a small part of it
B.	Personal Challenge
You may feel like it's you against the river, against the elements, trying to conquer nature.
YOU NEVER CONQUER THE RIVER! IT GOES ON WITH YOU OR WITHOUT YOU!
IT DOESN'T CARE!
So, more properly, its YOUR skills and confidence against YOUR doubts or fears.
You decide which river to run or avoid. You decide, at each rapids, whether to run or portage it.
You decide if each specific water level is within your comfort range or outside it.
So, to repeat, it's really a personal challenge - you against yourself, 
deciding how far you are comfortable pushing your personal limits.
C.	Character Building/Decision Making
A great many companies and organizations use whitewater rafting as a forum, seminar, and metaphor for character building, team building, and decision making. Whitewater kayaking may do the same for some people. You have to be able to look at a situation, assess the conditions, and make a good decision each rapids you negotiate. While you formulate your 'plan A', you should also be considering 'plan B' and 'plan C' (alternate routes and scenarios), in case something goes awry.
D.	Fellowship
Boat people tend to be the best bunch of people you might ever want to meet. Just as in any walk of life, you will find the occasional jerk or overbearing oaf, but somehow on the river they seem fewer and further between. Yes, it is a very individual sport -- ultimate decisions about what to run and how to run it are only yours to make; it's only you in the boat (except for those rare folks who paddle whitewater in tandem canoe or kayak). However, when help is needed, most whitewater boaters are willing (and glad) to assist another boater. Whether it's a 'newbie' learning basic skills, an experienced boater honing a new 'move', or anyone on the river in doubt (or in trouble) at a rapids, you can usually count on paddlers to do what they can to help out.
E.	Serenity
This may be counterintuitive. How can there be serenity in the apparent chaos of whitewater?
1. In most cases, there are flatwater stretches between the whitewater, ample time for serenity.
2. You are likely to get to some (more-or-less) remote and beautiful places that few other people get to,
	and which may be accessible almost no other way. And even where others may see them from shore,
	there is an 'intimacy' and different perspective when viewed from river-level, from midstream, interacting with
	and being almost a part of the river . . . that is completely unlike just being a casual, 'uninvolved' viewer.
3. Even in the midst of the whitewater, ones mind tends to be so focused that all else may 'cease to exist'.
	Whatever troubles you are having at work, at home, in life in general . . .  all disappear for those hours spent
	on the river, in pursuit of whatever whitewater quest you have at hand.
4. Disclaimer: For safety, it is highly discouraged to boat alone, especially on whitewater at higher difficulty levels. 	BEGINNERS SHOULD NEVER BOAT WHITEWATER (or even swiftwater -- high water) ALONE!!!
	This means AT LEAST two separate boaters, at least TWO separate boats, and three boats/boaters is better. 	(Also, two paddlers in one canoe is still 'boating alone'. If you have an 'out of boat experience', you have
	no one in any boat who can chase and round up your gear which is being flushed downstream.)
   That said, with suitable skill, proper heightened awareness and precaution, proper gear, and full knowledge and
	experience with the river and the water level, boating alone, on up to class II or III rapids/rivers, can be done
	almost as safely as walking up or down stairs in you house, walking your neighborhood or driving your car.

who/what	  II. Definitions

A. The venue (river)
There are a number of ways rivers and rapids may be described or quantified.
·	International Scale - rapids rated on a scale of 1 to 6 (usually Roman Numerals)

Class I: Fast moving water with riffles and small waves. Few obstructions, all obvious and easily missed with little training. Risk to swimmers is slight; self-rescue is easy.
Class II: Straightforward rapids with wide, clear channels which are evident without scouting. Occasional maneuvering may be required, but rocks and medium-sized waves are easily missed by trained paddlers. Swimmers are seldom injured and group assistance is seldom needed.
Class III: Rapids with moderate, irregular waves which may be difficult to avoid and which can swamp an open canoe. Complex maneuvers in fast current and good boat control in tight passages or around ledges are often required; large waves or strainers may be present but are easily avoided. Strong eddies and powerful current effects can be found, particularly on large-volume rivers. scouting is advisable for inexperienced parties. Injuries while swimming are rare; self-rescue is usually easy but group assistance may be required to avoid long swims.
Class IV: Intense, powerful but predictable rapids requiring precise boat handling in turbulent water. Depending on the character of the river, it may feature large, unavoidable waves and holes or constricted passages demanding fast maneuvers under pressure. A fast, reliable eddy turn may be needed to initiate maneuvers, scout rapids, or rest. Rapids may require “must” moves above dangerous hazards. Scouting may be necessary the first time down. Risk of injury to swimmers is moderate to high, and water conditions may make self-rescue difficult. Group assistance for rescue is often essential but requires practiced skills. A strong eskimo roll is highly recommended.
Class V: Extremely long, obstructed, or very violent rapids which expose a paddler to added risk. Drops may contain large, unavoidable waves and holes or steep, congested chutes with complex, demanding routes. Rapids may continue for long distances between pools, demanding a high level of fitness. What eddies exist may be small, turbulent, or difficult to reach. At the high end of the scale, several of these factors may be combined. Scouting is recommended but may be difficult. Swims are dangerous, and rescue is often difficult even for experts. A very reliable eskimo roll, proper equipment, extensive experience, and practiced rescue skills are essential.
Class VI: Extreme and Exploratory Rapids - These runs have almost never been attempted and often exemplify the extremes of difficulty, unpredictability and danger. The consequences of errors are very severe and rescue may be impossible. For teams of experts only, at favorable water levels, after close personal inspection and taking all precautions.
NOTE: many people say Class 6 is "unrunnable", the proper definition DOES NOT SAY THAT!

·	Character - 'continuous' versus 'pool/drop', 'boulder-garden' vs 'ledge-drop', 'waves' vs 'holes' or 'hydraulics'
·	Gradient - usually in feet/mile (in the USA; metric countries generally use 'meters per kilometer')
	generally 10-50 FPM implies some WW, 50-100 FPM moderate WW, 100+ FPM significant/serious WW
 	Gradient can be deceptive: 50FPM could be a waterfall and no whitewater,
	or spread so evenly there’s no whitewater; it really depends upon the geology as well as the gradient
·	Flow - usually in cubic feet per second (cfs) (in the USA; metric countries use 'cubic meters per second', 'cumecs')
	generally need 200 cfs to make waves and holes, and > 1000 cfs becomes big and pushy;
	obviously depends on size of streambed; small creeks may have whitewater under 100, big river may need 10,000+
One must consider these factors all together to find whitewater, characterize it, and determine what you are comfortable with.
	Colorado River through the Grand Canyon is only 9 fpm average, 35 fpm maximum, but typically 10,000 cfs.
	Wolf, Sec.IV is 16 fpm ave, 33 fpm max, with typical flows of 150-1200 cfs.
	Peshtigo River is 36 fpm ave, 84 fpm max, with typical flows of 200-1200 cfs.
	Sauk Ck (Port Washington) is 40 fpm ave, nearly 80 fpm max, but flow is seldom more than a couple-hundred cfs.

 B. The boat

Kayaks are designed for a number of different situations or purposes. There’s sea/touring kayaking, recreational kayaking, river-running, play-boating, and "creeking". The first two would be primarily 'flatwater' oriented, the last two would be primarily 'whitewater' oriented, and 'river-running' could be either one.

1) sea/touring	13-18', narrow (21-24"), may have rudder or skeg, often bulkhead or hatch
		if skirted, often a nylon skirt just to keep out paddle-drip or splash
		V-hull - tracks straight & true – each paddle stroke moves the boat forward, and it will glide or ‘coast’ well
		maneuvering in tight quarters problematic except for a skilled seasoned paddler
		suited to: inland lakes, Lake Michigan (with proper knowledge & gear), flatwater rivers
		cost: $700-2500
		Unsuitable for whitewater: can't maneuver in current; not made to take rock abuse

2) recreational	8-13' long, wide (25-36"), stable, large cockpit, may or may not have 'hatch'
		or bulkhead, if skirted, often a nylon skirt, primarily to keep out paddle-drip or splash
			stable for younger kids, beginner/novice paddlers, fishermen, bird watchers, etc.
			suitable for small ponds, inland lakes, lazy rivers (little or no rapids)
			Cost: as low as $250, on up to $1300
		Unsuitable for greater than I-II rapids: cockpit size => skirt implodes, generally difficult-to-impossible to roll
		not maneuverable enough for whitewater purposes (due to length and hull design).
		also includes 'sit-on-top' kayaks -- no cockpit - advantage:  never fills with water
			disadvantages: difficult to roll, not really maneuverable; unsuitable for greater than I-II rapids

3) River/Whitewater – all in the 23-27” wide range, $800-1200
·	playboating	6-8’, low volume (45-62 Gal.)
	flat ‘planing’ hull, flat decks; AKA Rodeo, Freestyle, Park&Play
·	river-running	8-13', mod. volume (45-70 Gal.)
	may be planing (fairly flat bottom) or ‘displacement’ (well rounded, both side-to-side and bow-to-stern 'rocker')
·	"creeking"	7-9’, high volume (60-90 Gal.)
	may be planing or ‘displacement’ (rounded & rockered)

Rafts	two basic choices -- rowing (with oars) or paddling (multiple participants, with paddles); also self-bailing vs. not
	Oar Rafts -- generally have metal 'frame' which is affixed to inflatable tubes;
			frame has a fixed seat (for oarsman)
			standard (floored) raft and 'catamaran' style (no floor, two pontoons, frame connecting)
			may be rowed solo, could include passengers who could paddle
	Advantages		leverage (because of long oars)
				high vantage point
				momentum (size and weight) for punching through big hydraulic features
				can 'break down' for storage and transport
	Disadvantages	leverage (water can have on the oars, and rip them out of your hands)
				high perch (to be tossed from if the raft is flipped)
				weight
				need to set-up/take-down before/after each trip
	Paddle Rafts -- no frame, no seats, just inflated tubes;
	Advantages		multiple paddlers for strength and weight
				high vantage point
				momentum (due to number of paddlers)
				deflate for storage/transport
	Disadvantages	need multiple people to paddle
				bulky (can't fit through as tight a spot in rocky rivers)
				need to inflate/deflate for each trip (or be able to store and transport inflated)

“Inflatable kayak” – not ‘really’ a kayak, but a long, skinny raft
	Advantages	light weight (can be under 20 pounds!)
		store and transport compactly (if you live in apartment or have small car)
		not 'trapped in' by closed cockpit and sprayskirt
		Allow casual inexperienced paddlers to experience whitewater
		generally more 'predicable', easier, and safer
	Disadvantages	need to inflate before each trip, deflate at end of each trip 
		(unless you can transport and store inflated, which defeats one of the advantages!)
		not as maneuverable nor as versatile (can't really 'play' as many features with them)
		can't roll (if you flip, you're swimming until you can catch it and climb in)
		Allow casual inexperienced paddlers to do whitewater without knowing dangers, risks, safety & rescue
	Cost: $1000-2500 (for one which is really designed to hold-up against rocks and the forces of whitewater)

Whitewater Canoe -- two basic choices -- "C1" or "OC1"
	C1 looks like a whitewater kayak (in fact, many people buy a kayak, rip out the outfitting and outfit as C1)
		uses the essentially the same type of sprayskirt as a kayak
		instead of a seat it has a saddle; instead of sitting, feet outstretched, you kneel, with a pedestal/saddle
		instead of using a two-bladed paddle, you use a single bladed (canoe) paddle
		instead of having any chance of being comfortable, you are in constant pain (ok, I may exaggerate a bit here)
		Cost: $800-1200 (generally same as whitewater kayak)
		Weight: 30-40 pounds (generally same as whitewater kayak)
	OC1 looks like a regular canoe, but has more 'rocker' (curvature bow-to-stern), has floatation bags filling all space
		(other than where the paddler sits), has a 'saddle' (rising from the hull, rather than bolted between the gunnels)
		Advantages 	more 'volume', so it floats higher
				room to carry gear (lunch, throw-ropes, dry clothes, 1st-aid kit, safety gear)
				paddler sits higher, so can see better (further ahead)
				not as confined, not 'locked in' (as much) if/when you flip
		Disadvantages	no sprayskirt: areas not filled by paddler or float bags fill with water
				after each good rapids, generally need to bail out water to lighten the boat
				generally considerably heavier than whitewater kayaks
				(often requesting assistance to carry)
				generally not as versatile (can't play as many features or do as many cool moves)
		Cost: $825-2500
		Weight: 40 to 65 pounds (often heavier due to outfitting, float bags, ropes, cameras, beer, etc)

what	III. Gear
	A. basic equipment - five finger checklist: boat, paddle, skirt, PFD, helmet;
		Do 5-finger checklist before leaving home, before running shuttle, before leaving river
		Make eye or hand contact with each item (don't just 'know' you have each) -- 
		it is easy to have a routine (of where everything is or goes) have that routine
		interrupted or changed, and then assume you have everything
		(I know, I've done it! Even though I regularly chide others about doing the checklist when they forget something!)
		Note: Almost every (or every?) state in the country requires some sort of PFD for each passenger of any watercraft.
		I don't believe any require the use of a helmet under any circumstance. However, for whitewater kayaking,
		I think I'd sooner (if I had to) paddle without a PFD than without a helmet!
	1. Boat - already discussed, cost $800-1200
	2. Paddle - good, sturdy, light-weight; straight or bent-shaft;
		cost: $125 minimum! $300-450 for best
		cheaper ($30-100) are often heavy (36+ oz.) typically NOT as durable (plastic/aluminum)
		good paddle will be less than 34 oz, and fiberglass or carbon
		'swing weight' is important - you are swinging it back and forth for hours
		length - less than 200 cm; anything longer is a recreational/touring paddle
		bent 'ergonomic' shaft a little more expensive, but many people find them more
		comfortable and easier to use, they 'automatically' put your hands in the right place
		on the shaft and tend to 'center' the power-face (blade)
		offset - 0, 30, 45, 60, 70, 90; lower offsets popular with playboating crowd;
		higher offsets for river-running/windy conditions
		NO PADDLE LEASH! Hazard in whitewater situations.
	3. Skirt - neoprene (NOT NYLON!), bungee corded or rubber rand
		cost: $80-150
		nylon skirt is suitable for flatwater, only to keep out paddle drip and splash,
		but it will not stay on the cockpit rim under the forces of moving water in a whitewater river
	4. PFD - "Personal Floatation Device", also known as a 'life jacket'
		cost: $40-200
		could use any PFD (E.G. water ski vest), but most do not allow proper fit nor mobility for whitewater
		paddling specific vest allows better flexibility/mobility
		MUST BE WORN SNUGLY!!!! A strong partner should be able to lift you by PFD without it riding up!
		You should be able to breathe normally, but a DEEP breath should generally make the PFD feel tight.
	5. Helmet - whitewater specific, to take multiple hits; either plastic or fiberglass, with closed-cell foam liner
		cost: $40-200
		(biking helmet good for only one hit; motorcycle helmet heavy, not made for immersion)
		(hockey helmet is better, but still not really made for type of impacts whitewater can dole out)
		As with PFD, this must be worn snugly! If loose, it won't do it's job -- it can roll back or even be swept off.
		(If the chinstrap hangs loose under your chin, you are not 'wearing' the helmet! If you can easily get more than
		one finger between the strap and your chin, it's still too loose!)

	Buying: new/used – esp. for beginners, used is good way to get in cheaper, often able to get some gear w. boat
		Typical total of basic (5-finger) list: New ~ $1080-2200, Used ~ $500

	B. safety+support: dry bag (storage), floatation bags, throw rope, knife, 1st aid kit, carabiners ('biners'), pulleys
	C. basic clothing - swimsuit, watershoes/booties, paddlejacket/splashjacket
	D. COOL weather/water gear - synthetics, poly, pile/fleece, NOT COTTON/DENIM (better naked than in cotton!)
	E. COLD weather/water gear - two (main) routes: wetsuit/drysuit; alternatives routes: wetsuit with drytop
		Rule of 100 (or 120): if combined air+water temp. is less than 100 (or 120), you need a wetsuit/drysuit.
		Err on the side of water temps -- alternate rule, if water < 50, you need wetsuit/drysuit.
		- an average adult has a 50/50 chance of surviving a 50 yard swim in 50 F. water.
		- a 50yr old adult has a 50/50 chance of surviving for 50 minutes in 50 F water.
	F. Transport
		1. Toss 'em in back - handiest is van, though may be possible in cars, SUVs, and trucks (of course).
		2. Tie 'em on top - Ropes or Straps (NO BUNGEE CORDS!!!!!), pads or roof racks

how	IV. How to (Instruction)
A.	Just do it
	1. learn bad habits (without knowing what they are)
	2. potentially dangerous (get in over your head, not knowing or recognizing dangers of what you may be doing,
		 where you are doing it, or how you are doing it)
	3. Appropriate (necessary!) AFTER you have gotten adequate beginner instruction; you need 'boat time' to hone skills
B.	books/videos
	1. can provide excellent instruction
	2. cannot provide any 'feedback' or critique
C.	clubs or schools/university; Badger State Boating Society (BS2), Chicago Whitewater Association (CWA),
		Hoofers (UW - Madison)
	1. tend to be informal and less expensive
	2. may or may not be certified instructors
	3. usually only one series/occasion per year, in ‘off-season’ (winter months), in a local indoor swimming pool 
	4. usually only teaching basic technique (get familiar/comfortable with boat/gear, learn basic strokes, maybe roll)
	5. may or may not provide moving water training via a ‘beginners’ trip day or weekend outing
	6. likely to give you the opportunity to establish contacts for later boating
D.	local outdoor retailers Laacke & Joys (Milwaukee), Rutabega (Madison), Geneva Kayak Center (Geneva, IL)
		(others? websearch!)
	1. Generally informal, may be moderately (I.E., slightly more) expensive
	2. likely to have certified instructors (ACA or BCU), though likely more for basic (flatwater) paddling
	3. generally scheduled (limited dates and times per year)
E.	paddle shops & paddle schools – Bear Paw Inn (Langlade), Wausau Whitewater, NOC (TN/NC)
	1. a tad more structured, may be moderately to significantly more expensive
	2. likely to have certified instructors, who are whitewater paddlers
	3. generally can be scheduled many times per year
	4. may be tailored to your experience, ability, or quickness learning

where	 V. Where to
A.	Almost every state in the country, and an assortment of countries worldwide!
	 Especially with the advent of  'Park&Play' boating, facilitated by the short, planing hull playboats, the sport is no longer defined by (and confined to) going from point A to point B, miles apart, with rapids in between. All a whitewater boater needs is one or two (or more) good waves, holes, eddy-lines, or other features. In fact, many whitewater boaters will 'work out' in lakes and pools, practicing rolls and developing other skills. Lake Michigan can provide entertainment, especially when waves are in the 3-5', 4-7', 5-8', and beyond! Aside from that, from where we are, I can count a dozen different stretches of river of whitewater interest, one of which is just over a mile away.
B.	Just as important, WHERE NOT TO!!!
	1. Low-head dams
		 Low-head refer to dams generally shorter than 10-20' which typically create nasty hydraulics at their base.
		Often they may look tame to the unwary, but the boil-line may extend tens of feet downriver,
		recirculating buoyant objects, often virtually endlessly (until water level changes or something bumps them out).
	2. Rivers in flood
		Respect the force of moving water!
		A 15-foot canoe pressed against an unmovable object by a current of 10 mph can exert a force of over four tons!
		Never get downstream of a floating object, where you might encounter a fixed object and be pinned between!

Do not attempt to stand in moving water over mid-calf deep! IF YOU CAN FLOAT, DO SO!
Defensive floaters position - feet first, face up -- encounter rocks with feet, butt, PFD -- swim backstroke toward shore
Exception would be in event of a strainer or snag -- get headfirst and try to quickly get on top of it.

More than this info is outside the realm of my discussion here -- take a swiftwater safety & rescue clinic!
AND take a refresher every couple of years!

when	  VI. 'Season', USGS Gauges
A.	'Season' – largely depends upon willingness to travel, gear and tolerance for cold
	I have boated in S.E.Wisconsin on something qualifiable as whitewater every month of the year!
B.	Gauges – USGS (United States Geological Survey) maintains gauges on hundreds of rivers across the US
	A fortunate handful of these are on rivers of whitewater interest. http://waterdata.usgs.gov/nwis 
	You can go directly to their website, waterdata.usgs.GOV (NOT .COM!) and drill down to the data
	OR -- You can go to a site which takes a data feed from them and reformats it to be more concise & user-friendly 	www.americanwhitewater.org (NOT .com!) color codes each section of whitewater which has a USGS gauge

addenda	  VI. Additional References
	What follows is a list (by no means an exhaustive) of suggested references for those interested in whitewater
A.	Books (Note: most of the books are NOT exclusively or specifically about whitewater. Rather, they are river guides which cover mostly flatwater, but also include whitewater stretches.)
	1. Whitewater, Quietwater A Guide to the Rivers of Wisconsin, upper Michigan, and northeast Minnesota
		by Bob and Jody Palzer
	2. Paddling Southern Wisconsin: 83 Great Trips by Canoe and Kayak
		by Mike Svob
	3. Paddling Northern Wisconsin: 82 Great Trips by Canoe and Kayak
		by Mike Svob
	4. Paddling Illinois: 64 Great Trips by Canoe and Kayak
		by Mike Svob
	5. Canoeing Adventures in Northern Illinois: Apple River to Zuma Creek
		by Bob Tyler
	6. Paddling Iowa: 96 Great Trips by Canoe and Kayak
		by Nate Hoogeveen
	7. Paddling Southern Minnesota
		by Lynne and Robert Diebel
B.	Organizations
	1. American Whitewater, www.americanwhitewater.org
•	A national non-profit organization with a mission “to conserve and restore America’s whitewater resources and to enhance opportunities to enjoy them safely.” American Whitewater is a membership organization representing a broad diversity of individual whitewater enthusiasts, river conservationists, and more than 100 local paddling club affiliates across America. The organization is the primary advocate for the preservation and protection of whitewater resources throughout the United States, and connects the interests of human-powered recreational river users with ecological and science-based data to achieve the goals within its mission.
•	American Whitewater works to protect and restore rivers, maintains a national inventory of whitewater rivers, monitors potential threats to whitewater river resources, publishes information on river conservation, works with government agencies to protect the ability of the public to have a voice in the management of rivers, advocates for legislation protecting our rivers and their aquatic resources, and provides technical advice to local groups regarding river conservation and management.
	2. River Alliance of Wisconsin, http://wisconsinrivers.org
•	Madison based, active in river issues of all sorts (thereby almost predominantly but not exclusively flatwater)
•	"Our mission is to advocate for the protection, enhancement and restoration of Wisconsin’s rivers and watersheds".
	3. Milwaukee Riverkeeper (formerly Friends of Milwaukee's Rivers), http://www.mkeriverkeeper.org
•	Milwaukee, Wisconsin based
•	"Our mission is to protect water quality and wildlife habitat in the river corridors and to advocate for sound land use in the Milwaukee, Menomonee, and Kinnickinnic River Watersheds.Milwaukee Riverkeeper is a licensed member of the Waterkeeper Alliance*, a national coalition dedicated to protecting and restoring our nation's waterways."
•	Initiated and created the "Milwaukee Urban Water Trail", which includes a mild whitewater stretch (http://www.mkeriverkeeper.org/watertrail/watertrail.htm)
	4. Badger State Boating Society, www.bsbs.org
•	Milwaukee/SouthEastern Wisconsin based club (presently mostly loosely organized) "for paddling enthusiasts"
•	emcompasses canoeists and kayakers, flatwater and whitewater
•	arranges 'open pool' sessions in winter months for general skill building and maintenance
C.	Recommended websites
	Beyond those already mentioned, it would be impossible to list the multitude of websites which may be of interest to paddlers, and even more daunting to ensure the list is kept up-to-date (no 'dead links'). Any good search engine should produce a good list of resources.