So, you've
put in an intake and you want to mount your battery in the trunk.
Stuff you need:
17 feet 0-4 gauge wire, 3 feet 0-4
gauge wire: (different colors)
2 battery terminal
connectors (negative and positive terminals are different sizes on some
cars so get the right ones)
Battery Box w/all the
tie down equipement (I bought a Mr.Gasket batter box that came with all
the screws and straps and stuff)
1 0-4 gauge
(depending which size wire you bought) ring terminal
Obvious tools (you know screw driver, socket set,
crimper, stripper, etc...)
Obviously, first remove your battery
from the engine compartment. Place the battery on a piece of wood or
cardboard instead of on the pavement/cement. Next, find a place in the
firewall that you can pass wires (if you have an amplifier for your
sub/system, find the place that their wires go through). On my car ('88
Lude), I have a factory hole in the fire wall behind the front right
fender. I partially removed the plastic covering the wheel well. Stock
wires are often run out of the side of the engine compartment, into the
wheel well and then into the interior of the car just to the right
(sitting in the passenger seat) of the glovebox. Basically, I put my 18
feet of fat power wire through those holes. If there is no hole in the
firewall that is reasonably accessable, then you may have to drill one
yourself. This isn't very hard, just remeber that there could be important
components behind the firewall where you're drilling, so check before you
drill. Once, you have your fatty through the firewall, run it under the
carpet along one side of the car to your trunk. ***If you have a sound
system and your amplifier is getting its signal from RCA's from the head
unit, have your fatty power wire running on the opposite side of the car
as it could cause a whine in your speakers if they are close together.***
Once you have your long power wire going from the engine bay to the trunk,
connect it at one end to the original positive (+) battery terminal wires
(there should be 2, one powering the car, and the other powering the
starter). Buying giant sized butt connector would be one way of connecting
them, or soldering them together and finding a piece of rubber hose that
you can slide on tightly would be another way. Either way, make sure that
the connection is protected from water and from grounding out on the metal
of the car. Once that is done, go to the trunk. Find a good place to
ground your battery. It could be a screw in the metal somewhere in the
trunk. Once you found a place, attach the 3 foot 0-4 gauge ground wire to
the big ring terminal you bought and use the screw you found int he trunk
to attach the wire to the metal. On the other end, attach the negative (-)
terminal connector you bought. This is now a ground for your battery. Now,
still at the trunk, find a place where your battery box can sit. Once you
find a place, use the screws and clamps and such that came with the kit to
secure the battery box to the inside of the trunk. it is important that it
doesn't move. Believe me, you do not want battery acid spilling inside
your trunk, ruining your carpeting, metal and battery. Once your box is
secured, see how much power (+) wire is slack and cut it to an appropriate
length (meaning not too long, but even worse NOT TOO SHORT). The wire
should have much slack. Attach your positive (+) terminal connector to the
end of the power wire. The end is near. Pick up your battery from the wood
you put it on (you did put it on wood, right?), and put it in your battery
box. Make sure everything is secure. Now attach the power (+) fatty
long-ass from wire to the positive (+) terminal of the battery. Then,
attach the negative (-) ground wire terminal connector to your negative
(-) terminal of the battery. If it sparked, either your car alarm is going
crazy, and/or your dome/trunk light just turned on. Sparking isn't bad, it
just means that there are somethings demanding power from the battery. Put
the lid on your battery and
voila!
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