You posted to the Super 8 newsgroup:
<< Just want to get some advice before I try this.
 am going to process EXR200T in C41 and 7240 in E6.
Does anyone think it will work?
Regards,
Martin >>

---> Yes, you can use C-41 Color Negative chemistry to process the 
EXR200T film, since C-41 is very similar to the ECN2 motion picture 
color negative process.  The bleach is formulated a bit differently, 
but this shouldn't cause you any big problems.  Ideally, you would use 
a different bleach....try using the one from the E-6 process, as it 
works better.  The main thing is the removal of the jet-black 
anti-halation backing, which is best done after you're done processing. 
If it proves really tough to wipe off in warm water....add some Borax 
to a water bath (Ideally some Sodium Carbonate and Borax but Borax 
alone in warm water @ 105�F will work) and soak it in that....then wipe 
it off a couple feet at a time.....between a set of rewinds with a tray 
of Borax mix between them.  Then, after you're finished....reload the 
film onto the spiral reel, and wash for a minute or two to rinse out 
the borax.......final rinse the film, and then hang to dry.  You can 
also substitute the Bleach and Fixer from E-6 chemistry, and just buy 
the C-41 Color Developer.

---> As for using E-6 chemistry for VNF....it works, but the color 
developer is formulated differently.  If you will be filming under 
flourescent lighting.....it will be fine...since there will be a 20CC 
magenta shift minimum.  However, if you mix the E-6 Color Developer 
overconcentrated by 35% it will get you close to the correct color.  I 
say close, since water quality factors will affect processing as well.  
The overconcentration will shift the film to yellow-green.....which is 
almost the opposite of the magenta.  To tweek it a bit to the blue 
then....you will have to add some sulfuric acid (follow the color 
correction advice in the Kodak E-6 mixing instructions).  
Temperature will affect it also.  So you can do it this way.....over 
concentrate the Color Developer by 35% and process the film with the 
Color Developer at 105�F to 110�F....which will shift the color also a 
bit more where you want it.  If the first roll seems too yellow....just 
begin to back off on the concentration by diluting the Color 
Developer....in 5% increments with water.  You'll find a happy medium 
for yourself.

---> VNF-1 Color Developer has the reversal agent in the developer, and 
the process includes stop baths between development 
steps.......intended for machine processing of course.   I have hand 
processed using the VNF-1 chemistry...but it's pricey and each mix 
makes 100 liters!  That's a lot of soup to have around.  I have found 
that the E-6 process is easier to control via some tweeking than 
bothering with the VNF-1 chemistry.....for hand processing.

---> I should also add that after you have processed the film....you 
will need to filter all of your solutions to remove any stray traces of 
the jetblack anti-halation backing that may've flaked off in your 
chemistry.  I use a mesh strainer on a large funnel and at the bottom 
of the funnel I have some fine cheesecloth....sometimes using cotton 
cloth.....as an extra fine filter and hold it onto the bottom of the 
funnel with a rubberband wrapped several times around.  You will have 
to clean our your "filter" here a few times since it will clog up as 
you filter your solutions out....also rinse the "filter" very good with 
water and always work from first solution to the last...in 
other words....downline thru the process.  This will avoid any needless 
potential for chemistry contamination.  In a machine.....the removal of 
the anti-halation backing is done prior the developing process.   
However..in manual processing the backing doesn't all come off...and 
really doesn't even begin to come off until you are past the Color 
Developer stage.   Even so....FILTER all the solutions after you are 
finished to ensure that it's cleaned up before reusing for your next 
film run.

---> While I'm on this subject.....you can also process Ektachrome VNF 
7240 as a color negative using either the C-41 chemistry...or just use 
the C-41 Color Developer and use the Bleach and Fixer from the E-6 
chemistry.  It works out quite well....and....I bet this method could 
actually be used by some for various color negative 
requirements....since they transfer to video afterwards anyhow.  I just 
did a 2-Stop PUSH on some VNF processed as color neg for 
a customer.....very grainy....but sharp....and the flesh tones still 
looked quite realistic upon transfer to video......kind've amazing 
actually.


Hope this helps...let me know if you have any other questions.  I 
process movie film daily...both B&W and Color, all by hand.
Best wishes, Martin W. Baumgarten

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