Problems
&
Solutions!
I decided on this webpage for several reasons!!  It's a help to fellow Cosworth owners experiencing the same problems, help give insight to Merkur owners on what kind of issues happen and also is a log for myself and my bad memory!! :)
September - November 2003

Intermittant bucking problem!
I would drive the car and it would drive ok, then for NO REASON the car's rpms would drop to near zero, rise to almost 4 grand and drop again.  It wouldn't matter if it was warm, cold, just started, etc.  It would happen anytime.  Lived with this issue for several months and it got on my nerves so much, i almost decided to sell it.  But my wife told me to persevere.  It was dangerous and you couldnt even drive it a distance of a few blocks before it happened again.

Troubleshooting
I posted my problem on the forum and several people replied.  Some couldn't believe the engine could do that.  I ordered a mass number of spare parts to solve the problem since i was my own mechanic (no Cossie specialists here).  I tried installing a new ECT sensor, a couple of ignition modules (think TPS), ignition coil, fuel distributor, fuel filter,  another ECU with stock chip, MAP sensor, spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, crank sensor...and it STILL WASNT fixed!!

Solution
Phase magnetic pickup sensor inside distributor.  Apparently a common problem.  The heat dissolves the wiring inside the phase sensor.  The wires were touching each other and causing the ECU to go crazy.  This is one of those parts that just gets replaced once in a vehicle's lifetime.  Unfortunately, it seems the previous engine owner actually used electrical tape (!!) to try to isolate the frayed wiring instead of purchasing this $50 part.  WTF!!  In order to replace this item, you'll need feeler gauges and the process involves removing the timing belt cover to get access to the distributor.
Since ownership till November 2003

Full boost not achieved
Once the car was completed, i was never able to get more than 4 psi.  I was told when the car was finished I was getting good boost.  Apparently, the workshop that assembled my drivetrain just lied to get me out the door

. 
Troubleshooting
Upon arriving to America, I decided to have look into this.  I noticed the actuator wasn't fully wound to the maximum threads.  Suspecting this was the issue, I wound up the wastgate actuator rod to it's limit.  Now I could get 6 psi.  But still not the 8-9 psi quoted.  Believe it or not, even at 6 psi the car was quite quick!

Solution
I noticed that the BOV (dump valve) was not as loud as it should be.  This clued me in.  My dump valve is of diaphram design and it's quite common to hear of punctured diaphrams.  Since it was mounted on the intercooler takeoff spout, the diaphram may have melted from the heat or it was always faulty (bought it used from Ebay).  It was a no-name BOV so I didnt loose any sleep over it.  Instead I blocked it off and sure, enough I was able to enjoy 9 spi for the very first time!
November 2003

Oil changes
I was able to cross-reference the necessary oil filter here in America at a nearby Autozone (STP S3512).  The first place I went to was Jiffy Lube.  They overfilled my oil with 10-40.  I then had it replaced with Valvoline Synthetic 20-50, that made noise, so upon recommendation from England, I put in Mobil1 15-50.  That still made noise.  Upon reading Merkur websites, I realized the engine was used to dino oil not synth.  So now it runs happily on 1/2 quart Mobil1 10-15 and 3 quarts of Castrol GTX 20-50 conventional.
December 2005

Clunking in drivetrain when stopping/launching
The problem started to progressively get worse and worse.  Ever since I bought the car it never shifted properly into first without some driveline slop.  At first, that was the only symptom.  Then as of recent, it started clunking against the body when stopping.  The car was assembled improperly, and one of the issues was that the rear diff was only supported by two bolts rather than four.  It only helped to develop the issue. 

Troubleshooting
Once I had the rear diff reinstalled properly & reinforced, I noticed the clunking problem wasn't resolved.  Then me and my friend John noticed the rubber transmission mount was destroyed and that the crossmember was sourced from a Sapphire, not a 3dr.  I ordered a Rapido crossmember for T5 and it's accompaning Mustang mount.  This issue may also mean the driveshaft's center bearing is bad as well.  Stay tuned.
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