Holubov is so small that they still broadcast public announcements over loudspeakers in the morning. We learn that some chickens are for sale at the general store. The prices are announced, with the black hens going for a premium because of their egg laying prowness. The main thing a place needs in these parts to be considered a village is a pond and Holobov has one of the best in the area, much to the delight of Pavel's grandsons. This is a place with zero tourists but it is centrally located near some of the great sights in south Bohemia.

Tony and I take full advantage. We go canoeing on the scenic Vltava River in Sumava National Park with Pavel's son and three grandsons. We visit the UNESCO stamped village of Holasovice, with its rustic Bohemian houses and its larger neighbor Cesky Krumlov. Even better is the non-UNESCO but architecturally fascinating Ceske Budejovice, home of the famous Czech Budweiser beer. We tour the Vyssi Brod monestary in the village of Zlata Koruna, and the castle of Hluboka nad Vlatovar.

We can hike to some great spots straight out of Holubov. Twice, we climb a nearby mountain to see the view from near the Klef Observatory. On another day we hike along the river to Divici Camin, sublime castle ruins, and then trace out the remnants of an ancient Celtic village near Trisov. Trisov is having a village festival, so we stay for beer and music. Pavel's dog Bernie provides the excitement of the evening by chomping on a smaller local dog. All is forgiven and Tony wins a jar of pickles in a raffle.

We take a ride with the family to Lipno, a lake near the Austrian border. Here I find two kan-kans -- an old coin and a mysterious necklace. We go to a marvelous show at the Renaissance hunting lodge of Kratochvile. The performers do a Cirque du Soleil type of performance, often in the water filled moat of the hunting lodge.

Tony and I both fall in love with the area. We dub Pavel a very lucky man indeed and are much indebted to him and his wife for their kind hospitality. The charm of this place and its people have struck a chord with me and I'll long remember my fortunate south Bohemia days.