In ancient times, three large volcanoes filled the Cappadocian valleys with lava that time, wind and water have shaped into cones (called peribaca or "fairy chimneys"), resembling mushrooms, hats, or still more fantastic shapes when heavier stones block portions of the eroding process. Early Christians dug out houses and churches inside these formations and later dug deep underground to create elaborate cities for protection against invaders. Today, villagers farm on as much of the mineral-rich soil as possible, sometimes even on small terraces high above the valley floors. So, the locals have created a network of trails through these valleys, surrounded by the incredible troglodyte dwellings.

My biggest surprise was discovering the blissful solitute of these gorgeous valleys. I hardly ever saw tourists in them and then only close to towns. Even the locals are sparce, usually ignoring me while continuing their farm work, but sometimes offering a friendly wave. One old guy points the way to a spring, which I wouldn't have spotted and found extremely useful. Once, and I believe this must be rare, I had a problem when a large dog came after me. With incredible luck, he attacked just at a point where I could climb up into a cave house where he couldn't follow. These cave houses are far more numerous than I'd imagined and also provide shelter when I encounter rain.

On a few trekking days I'm blessed with spectacular Anatolian Spring weather. Trees and shrubs are in full flower and wildflowers blanket the cliffs. Birds, including great hawks, decorate the skies. Small life abounds: snails, frogs, lizards, snakes, beetles, bees, and tiny exquisite plants. And the tortoises! I see dozens of them. It is mating season and sometimes three or four males gather around a female for a chance to mate. The knocking of shells and moaning hisses are heard everywhere.

I'd expected Cappadocia to be the highlight of my Turkey trip, but it was far more than that. Without question, this is one of the most amazing areas I've ever hiked through. It seemed that every bend in the trail, every new valley (Zemi, Babatcik, Icridere, Uzundere, Kiliclar, Rose, Gulludere, Kizxilcukur and more), every new formation or set of cave dwellings, or the unexpected discovery of a large cave church with great columns inside, each of these brought another wave of awe and amazement to me.

Years ago, while waiting for someone in a Walmart, wandering the aisles, wondering why anyone would want to buy anything in here, I overheard a conversation that has somehow stuck with me. A man spots a George Forman grilling device and emphatically praises its merits to his somewhat dubious friend. Finally, with one hand raised in a gesture of genuine, deep-felt conviction, he declared: "I'm telling you -- this is the shit!" Whenever I come across a truly fabulous place like Cappadocia, I want to make the same declaration.