I think of the French explorers who first chopped their way through overgrown jungle to rediscover these temples. I think of how this place looked to them and am thankful that a few of the temples have so far avoided extensive renovation and were left the way they were found.

The best and most famous jungle temples are Preah Khan and Ta Keo. Here the sprawling complexes merge with the jungle. Large trees grow on top of temple ruins, roots shooting off along and into the stone. When I look at Angkor or Bayon, I think of how these marvelous ruins relect a great civilization and try to get a sense of what they were like in their prime. However, when I look at Preah Khan and Ta Keo, I feel that they are in their prime right now! They are far greater as jungle ruins than as mere Kymer temples.

I would love to see a documentary movie made about the insects at Preah Khan. The ants alone would be worth a film. Add in the soundtrack from the parrots and other birds and you've got the subject for a stunning IMAX. The jungle breathes life into these stone walls, mocking the pretentions of the men who built these dwellings for their gods. Sections of stone, holding great carvings, are strewn about, not discarded, but carefully rearranged by nature. It's truly a perfect collaboration between man and jungle, each contributing their art, while seeming to be in conflict with each other.

It is so pleasantly easy to get away from other tourists here. Even at Ta Prohm, the busier of the two, I find large courtyards where I can sit for an hour without seeing anyone. Hidden nooks are everywhere. I discover spots during my third visit that I'd somehow missed after two previous trips. There's much magic in all the Angkor temples, but I only found great awe while in these jungle ruins.

I'm concerned about Preah Khan, perhaps my favorite, where they have a renovation project in force. I pray that they do as little renovating as possible and leave it the way it is. The jungle has claimed it and has improved it. Man can only mess it up.