The area around Waterfall Valley hut is one of the best for spotting wallaby and pandemelon. These critters are easy to spot all along the trail, but here there are loads of them loafing around in the shade by the stream.

After setting up my tent, I'd planned to return to climb Barn Bluff. However, I start poking around in Waterfall Valley on this blazing hot day and find their cool enclave to be most inviting. Most Overland hikers pass through Waterfall Valley without seeing any of the waterfalls and the few who do only stop at the first few. This area was sacred to the aboriginal people, so the way there is completely unmarked, no signs point the way and the tiny paths leading down there are swallowed up by the scrub brush. Once I manage to find my way down into the series of waterfalls, I feel it to be a special place. I learn that the best way to navigate through them is to simply stick to the stream and wade up or down the falls, very pleasant on such a hot day.

That night I'm introduced to the amazing changability of the Overland weather. I go to bed in almost stifling heat, but during the night a windy storm blows in with nearly freezing rain! I wind up shivering in my flimsy tent. After that I mostly stick to the huts.

The hike to Windemere is pleasant and mostly flat, but the day is rainy. After dropping off the pack at Windemere Hut, I hike back to the long side trail to Innes Falls along with BJ and Naomi, two south Aussie hikers. Innes Falls is a bit hidden, down in a small canyon, so that you don't come across it until you are almost certain it can't be anywhere near where you are. On the way back I see my first wombat, about as placid a critter as you could imagine, quite the exact opposite of the devils.

At Windemere, the hut is lively at night as everyone huddles around the stove. I'm introduced with the soon to be infamous Groves family from Melbourne, quickly nicknamed the Vonn Trapps by hutmates because of the incredible singing enthusiasm of the four children. For example, on this night they perform, and I do mean perform as they often dance as they sing: "Sweet Dreams", a few Mamas and Papas tunes, "We Are Australian", "Australian Proud", several Australian versions of Christmas carrols, "We Still Call Australia Home", "Meow Meow", a few different versions of "Walzing Matilda", "Give Me a Home Among the Gum Trees" (which I learn, complete with the appropriate hand gestures), some Supertramps tunes, and an almost complete version of "American Pie"! I'm just scratching the surface here too. Danielle, the youngest at eight and perhaps the best performer, does a solo song and dance to "Uptown Girl", and "Poison Ivy". The kids also drag Cecile, from the Netherlands, up in front of the crowd to do a "Dutch Girl" song and dance. Then they sing some German songs! I'm sure they would have gone on and on if people didn't start to look like they would strangle them. Actually, they are all very talented singers and I enjoyed the "show".