Next we go sea kayaking. I was greatly looking forward to this and while it was pretty good, it was not as fabulous as I'd expected. Sandflies are the main problem. Milford has them like the plague, so you must keep moving at all times or get eaten alive. So, I was quite happy with a quick lap around the harbor where we've docked for the night.

Dinner is good, plentiful and very much needed by this starving tramper. Sleeping is tough for me as I'm stuck in a hot upper bunk. Sea lions bark near the open porthole late at night. We're up early and off after breakfast.

As is more normal for Milford, it is raining. As many have noted before me, this is not a bad thing at Milford! With the rains come many, many more waterfalls. The difference is quite plain from the night before, now water runs downs from the high fiordland hills every few feet. It's like being in the middle of a rocky water wonderland.

We're very lucky with wildlife spotting. Aside from sea lions and dolphins we get a very good look at rare Little Fiordland Penguins. These cute little guys hide behind the rocks and are quite hard to spot. Somehow the guide sees them and the captain moves the boat in slowly for a close look.

When we reach the ocean and turn around to re-enter Milford, you can see why Captain Cook and so many others after him failed to notice Milford Sounds. You really can't see the opening from the sea. It was only discovered accidentally when a boat was forced to come in from a storm. It feels so mysterious and exciting to sail into Milford and have it open up before you with all its majesty.

Over all the boat trip is highly recommended and the crew does a great job. The bus ride out to TeAnau is extremely scenic as well, most particularly between Milford and the Homer Tunnel. This area is filled with incredible waterfalls plunging down cliffs. Right before the tunnel is a marvelous canyon, now laced with thin streams of water. I see a gang of about six kea birds vandalizing a camper left at a trailhead -- trouble in paradise.