Ramble
Quest - Greenstone Trail.
Now that word about the Routeburn pass being open is out, I get to see how lucky I was to do Routeburn with so few hikers. When I went in there were only about 7 people on the Backpacker's Express bus. Now, on the way into Greenstone, they have 40-50 people going into Routeburn. Fortunately only one other guy is going into Greenstone!
Unfortunately, I leave my water bottle on the boat over to the trailhead. John, Scottish guy going in, gives me a tiny juice bottle, hardly more than a few swallows but it is far better than having to pull out my titanium pot every time I want a drink. I also grab a walking stick at the start which helped my ankles greatly on this sometimes rocky trail.
Slyburn Hut is worth the detour even if you don't want to stay there. The views of the rapids from the bridge are great and the hut is atop a pleasantly open hillside. The sun is so pleasant here that I take a short nap in the field.
I camp near Mid-Greenstone hut, which is convenient for getting water, but bad with sandflies. You can camp almost anywhere along the Greenstone track, so if I'd had my proper water bottle I would have picked a spot with less flies. BTW, I've seen enough of these sandflies now to be about 90% sure that they are the same critters we call blackflies in the States. So, I'm confused as to why they have a different name here.
Some of the older silver beech around here are completely infected with yellow strawberry fungus. They actually look like they are bearing fruit. I'm very tempted to eat one of these, thinking I may be on the verge of discovering the next delicacy for the Japanese. I decide to hold off until I can learn the extent of their toxicity. However, I stick one in my pocket and forget about it. Later I find it mushed up against a chocolate bar. I have far too little food to toss just on the mere chance of poisoning. I eat the chocolate. The fungus juice definitely did not improve the taste.
Much later, post trail, I speak with a Japanese guy who did most of the major treks in the south, including Milford, Routeburn, Hump Ridge, and Stewart Island. He said that Greenstone was his favorite (and he didn't know anything about strawberry fungus). This surprised me but the Greenstone does have some fabulous moments. You'll be hiking alone in pleasant forest and then pop out to river valleys with the most magical views. They are not as flash as Routeburn or Dart but there's something about the hills around here that inspires a hiker.
Just after McKeller Hut the trail enters Fiordland National Park and improves dramatically. The same wardens who maintain Routeburn keep up this section of the Greenstone and they do a great job. After peaceful Lake McKeller is even more peaceful Lake Howden, with a lovely hut at the end that marks the intersection of the Greenstone and Routeburn treks. The cost is on Routeburn's higher rate though, so many people elect to stay at cheaper McKeller Hut instead. I'm staying at Howden because I want to be on the Routeburn to finish up the bits I missed.