Ramble
Quest - Queenstown Tourism Machine To The Rescue.
I wasn't going to prebook here but with the bus delayed so long I figured I'd better. I ask at the Wanaka Information Center for a backpackers close to the center. They book me at Pinewood Lodge, a large place that is much further away than advertised. Then they try to assign me to a pit of a room, but I'm having none of that. After complaining I get a room to myself.
Like Wanaka, Queenstown is in a heavenly setting at the edge of a large lake, surrounded by many mountains. Of course Queenstown is more built-up and commercialize, but it is still a nice place. Walking along the Queenstown Gardens atop a small knob that juts out into the lake, you could hardly wish for a lovelier atmosphere.
The main reason I came to Queenstown was to sort out my trekking bookings. I have big problems to solve. Way back in Napier, I sat down at the helpful DOC there to decide which southern tramp I would take. After much contemplation I choose Routeburn, yes even over Milford, mainly because I'm a sucker for alpine scenery. The problem is that the south is having unbelievably unseasonably cold and rainy weather. In fact Queenstown is far colder than Aukland was two months ago. Not that I mind the cold, hardy midwesterner that I am, I find this crisp weather to be absolutely perfect. The problem is that all the mountain passes are still closed, due to avalanche danger, when they should have been open at least a month back.
So, not only is Routeburn closed at the pass, but my main alternatives as well -- Kepler and Rees/Dart. Frankly, I think they are way too cautious here, but what can you do.
OK, so I'm screwed and starting to kick myself for not taking Milford when I had the chance. However, the Queenstown tourism machine comes to my rescue. With three trips -- to DOC, Info and Track next door, and the Visitor's Center across the street (actually, I had to go there twice after they screwed up) -- I arrange a dream itinerary, complicated by the weather restrictions but no less appealing in my eyes! From Glenorchy, I'll go in on the Routeburn and hike to the pass and take a side trip up the river. Then I'll come out, spend a night in Glenorchy, and then go in the Greenstone track. The end of the Greenstone meets up with the other end of the Routeburn. I can hike back up to see what I missed and then come out the Divide where I normally would for Routeburn, an ideal way to shorten the journey to Milford Sound! I book an overnight boat cruise at Milford, a bit of a splurge but I think well worth the $NZ157. Then on to TeAnau the next day.
All this is booked! I've never planned so far in advance before! My expectations are sky high for this stretch and I'm thrilled with the new plan.