My plan calls for unorthodox stopping points as I'm doing all of the side trails. First day out is perfectly brillant weather. Neil, the Cougar Line boat skipper, turns out to be Richard's sailing instructor. He know these waters well and is able to lead us right to a merry band of entertaining Dusky Sound dolphins.

Landing at historic Ship's Cove, everyone else on the boat starts for the track while I head in the opposite direction, stopping first at an idyllic waterfall, and then part way towards the next bay. This path goes all the way to Cape Jackson, many hours away, but I'm just taking a taste of it to get out of sync with the other hikers.

Returning to a now deserted Ship's Cove, I linger, admiring the rare surrounding native (not regrowth but virgin native) forest while eating a lemon. Captain Cook landed here and forced his sailors to drink water boiled with native grasses to prevent scurvy. I'm sure they would have prefered a kiwi lime.

After having this fabulous trail to myself, when I finally start to catch up to people I'm happy to see them. I hike the ending stretch to my stopping point at Furneaux Lodge with Laura, from San Francisco, and then chat with her slower companions, and finally a young German couple (Uli and Regina). I pitch my tent (yes, I'm finally using my tent!) and loll about by the waterfront, feeling like I'd been transported into a picture postcard.

When Furneaux explored these waters he had trouble with the locals, who were cannibals. Ten of his men were killed and eaten by them. I'm guessing this was part of the reason these lovely waters were left alone for so long.

My second day out is equally wonderful. First, I detour inland to some waterfalls. These side trips up and away from the coastal route that the QC Track mainly follows have a darker, lusher feel, more grown in and under larger trees.

Later, at a point where a farm -- complete with cows, chickens, sheep and lama -- intersects the trail, I turn off for another, longer detour up to the remnants of an old antimony mining village. Returning to the QC Track, just past the farm, I see the ancient rusted remains of a McCormick-Deering tractor. Sybil did the genealogy work for this family in Chicago, so I've seen all of their gravestones.

Fish jump in the impossibly blue waters with more blue skies above. Nothing is quite so perfect as a great hike under the very best conditions. Even though I hiked more the first day than the second, I'm only at Camp Bay, about where most people stop after the first night. It's not a bad spot, but two problems. First, the damn wekas! Pitch a rock at the pesky buggers and they relentlously return. Maybe these birds have a short term memory problem like that guy in Memento? Other bad is that I hear lots of gunfire in the night and in the morning see tons of blood near the restrooms. Some hunters clearly skinned animals here and were shooting close to camp.

I wandered over to Punga Cove and Homestead to chat with the owners there. The Homestead woman says the weather forecast is promising. With that in mind I make the mistake of not taking my rain pants with me the next day.

That day begins cloudy and windy. It seems like I'm just at the edge of a storm. I can see fabulous rainbows, more than I've ever seen before at one time. While sitting at the first shelter, Deep Bay, I get my first rain. It lets up quickly though, so I hustle on. For this day, the QC Track zigzags along ridges between the Kenepuru and Queen Charlotte Sounds. I have a bizarre stretch where the Kenepuru side has tremendous winds, blowing a cold driving rain into my face, while minutes later, on the QC side, I find calm, gentle drizzle. The changover is so abrupt that it feels like I'm being transported between two different trails. Once I get used to this moody Queen I kind of like the thrill of this novelty.

Then, inevitably, I have about a 45 minute stretch (although of course it seems much longer) where it's pure deluge everywhere and I'm completely drenched and greatly missing my rain pants. There are a few drawbacks to sending your pack ahead after all.

After a hard, slippery slog up to the second, Black Rock, shelter, I'm thankful for the lean-to. Now you might think a lean-to shelter is fairly useless to someone who is already soaked, but I greatly needed the phychological break from getting rained on. I eat a bag of tuna and drink a cold MRE cocoa that I've been carrying around with me, waiting for a moment when a really needed it. This is definitely that moment because the thrill is mostly certainly gone and I'm getting colder by the second. It is only noon at this point and I left at eight, so I've been hiking quickly, but I know I'll need to keep it up or freeze.

I don't feel cold while hiking and feel better as the rain gradually dies down. Then I get a bizarre stretch of about an hour of completely ramdom weather -- strong wind at my back, now at my face, now no wind, strong rain, weak rain, no rain, sun (!), cloud and then change again. It seems like the weather gods are spinning a roulette wheel every minute to decide what's next.

Popping out of the bush at the Torea Bay road that leads down to Portage, I have a decision to make -- go to Portage or not? An hour ago, I was ready to stay at Portage and call Cougar to have them hold my bag, but it isn't raining now. I decide to go to Portage anyway to get some grub.

First place I see at the bottom of the hill is the somewhat fou-fou Portage Hotel. In their large deserted restaurant, everyone is nice to me despite my wet, grungy appearance. The waitress suggests seafood chowder and it is very good. After a pot of tea I'm feeling warm. I linger for awhile with a wine and a cheese plate. What a different atmosphere from the muddy mess a few hours back!

After a big sit-down like that you'd think I wouldn't be in the mood for hiking, but I am. Even more so because it's bloody beautiful outside! I'd felt the weather would improve but I'd never imagined it would get this nice.

The QC Track has so many stupendous views that it's hard to choose one or even several above others. That said, the views I get from the top of the hill above Portage and all the way until the climb down to Mistletoe may well be the most grand. On one side I have picturesque Porage, a narrow strip of land at the end of aquamarine Kenepuru Sound. On the other side I have -- peeking through the bushes -- hey I can see the Snout (which I hiked the day before starting the QC trail) and Picton! For some strange reason that cheers me. The Queen Charlotte sound is a darker deeper blue than Kenepuru. At some points you can see them both and appreciate the contrast.

The turnoff down to Mistletoe Bay starts with a mad tangle of slick roots, rather dangerous. I'm surprised to see sheep grazing at the campsite! Turns out there's a road that leads down here. This campsite is beautiful, far better than Camp Bay and no wekas either.

Last day, I linger at my pleasant camp as I have tons of time to catch the ferry. After a slow amble around the peninsula, I hit the trail, loafing as much as possible. Besides hiking slowly I'm examining every tree and bush. I can't pass a bench without a rest. I put my hat over my eyes and lie down at one. However, I'm not there 10 minutes when I feel some raindrops. What the *&___? I swear the sky was perfectly clear a few minutes back.

Memories of the previous day get me moving, back to my usual quick pace. Fortunately, I get out before the rain gets bad. A house up the road from the ferry serves drinks to waiting trampers.

This ferry is not a slow boat like the way out. The young driver gives us a rollercoaster ride, bouncing along atop the waves. He does stop to look at dolphins though.

Hella and Geert, my Belgium tramping buddies from Pinnacles and Rotorua, gave the QC Track a thumb's down for the overpriced backpacker accomodation. Could be true, but no worries with a tent! I've also heard people complain about tree and bush obstructing the views during the middle section. Don't believe them! There are plenty of views and this bush cuts down the wind on these exposed ridges. Two thumb's up for the QC Track!