Aukland sprawls tremondously for such a low population city. My first impression was rather negative because of its unmemorable downtown. However, I liked the place a lot more after five days than after two and got a much better feel for the place after walking the Coast to Coast Walkway, from Princess Wharf on Waitemata Harbor to Onehunga Bay Reserve on Manukau Harbor, passing through most of the city's best green spaces.

Blessed with a beautifully crisp, clear Saturday, I strolled down Queen St. to the starting point. Aukland hides too much of Waitemata Harbor, providing too few access points for views near the water. Devonport, oozing with charm on the opposite end of the harbor, gave me much betters views of Waitemata on another day. The baroque Ferry Building, near the starting point of the trail, is a rare downtown architectural highlight.

Heading south, the area around Aukland University, with its strange Bell Tower, and the enchanting Albert Park, now flowering with full Spring splendor around its Victorian statuary, rises above, both literally and figuratively, the unfortunate city center to the west.

Next up is the Aukland Domain, a large area with too much ugly grass that I'd explored a few days earlier. The small bits that aren't grass are wonderful, such as the miniscule, yet equisite Wintergarten and Fernery. The nearby Aukland Museum is both pathetic and superb. Poorly lit, horribly laid out and with scores of downright embarrassing exhibits, it also contains a world-class collection of Maori and Pacific Island artifacts. The war museum section, though basically a pint-sized copy of the one in London, is world a look. Plus, there are some hidden gems among the rooms full of eclectic dross.

The climb up to Mt Eden, past grazing cattle, Maori Kumara pits, and incredible numbers of Asian tourists (all driven up) results in fantastic views. Volcanic Maungawhau produced a large crater, shaped like a giant slanted bowl, at the base of the summit.

After Mt. Eden I get lost several times in pleasant suburban type neighborhoods. The track is not at all well marked in several areas. Miraculously, it seems like every time I'm just about to give up hope of picking up the path again, I stumble across it.

Cornwall Park is busy with picknickers, cricket players and joggers. As with Albert Park, someone took great care to plant a wide variety of interesting trees. I spot an office and finally get a map of the Coast to Coast Trail from a nice lady working there.

One Tree Hill and Maungakiekie, with its volcanic craters, grazing sheep, and Asian tourists (far less though) provides the looking glass views to contrast those from Mt Eden. For the first time I get a good look at my destination -- Manukau Harbor. Almost there now, but not quite close enough, as the most boring section of the hike comes next -- during the long stretch down to Onehunga Bay Reserve. I should add that it would have been impossible to find the way without the map, as this section is basically unmarked, almost as though they were embarrassed to acknowledge the inclusion of such uninteresting streets in a great walkway.

As one of my roommates, Graham (who has taught me the difference between rugby League and Union) later put it: "you've walked across the whole of New Zealand." It certainly feels like it after finishing, even if this has to be the narrowest point to cross the country, or almost any country! A celebration is clearly in order. I bus to within a mercifully few blocks of the Galbraith Ale House where I feast on roasted root vegetables, downed with several half pints of their fine cask conditioned ales -- a very welcome endpoint for the weary coast to coast hiker.