That said, if you can somehow blot out those horrific construction sites and don't mind hanging out with a bunch of foreigners, it is still enchanting. The west side beaches are windy but beautiful. Sheer cliff faces surround the east side. Karst hilltops pop up from the corners and lovely islands decorate the beach views.

Walking up the west beach, I stop to poke a stick at a pair of dead puffer fish that have washed ashore. Two Thai kids laugh at my antics. How do these things stay puffed up when they're dead? I can't swim yet because I haven't remembered to bring my waterproof money pouch, so I walk all the way to the top of the beach and sit in the peaceful mangroves.

On the way back I spot Neil chatting with a woman on a beach chair. Her name is Candice and she's a transplanted Texan who now lives in Aukland. She paints a positive picture of the New Zealand job market -- a surprise to me. Candice and her companion Warren, who comes splashing up from a swim, both work for Sun. I get some very interesting NZ information from them.

At low tide I can reach some paths around the south end of east Raileh that lead to crevices in the limestone cliffs that allow me to scramble up. It's not easy going though and there are lots of mosquitoes in these shady spots. Since my hands are clutching the cliff face, I can't swat at them either. I'm also a bit concerned about getting hit with a rainstorm while I'm up here. The views are rewarding, but the climb down is quite tricky for me.

Later, I find the established scramble that leads up to the same plateau. There are many signs here telling you not to go up here without climbing equipment, but it is quite easy, especially since there are some ropes to help with the way down.

I run into Klem and Alexandra, a Swiss brother and sister duo who I'd met twice in Krabi (the clean washroom woman). Lucky for me, as I'd liked them but somehow neglected to give them my traveling card. They are doing Raileh as a day trip, disliking the foreign crowds.

While heading back to my room to tend to my bites, I decide to pop into the nearby Pranangnai Cave. Some guys have put a hut up near the cave to collect a 20b entrance fee. They have tickets and park service posters so they must be legit. The cave is surprisingly good and well lit. I meet Christine from Australia in the cave. We're chatting near the entrance when Neil shows up again. One of the park service guys just handed him a marijuana cigarette. I guess they're spreading the wealth a bit with the entrance fees they collect.

I spend some time watching the many rock climbers here (proper climbers, with equipment). I've heard hardcore backpackers blame the climbers for "spoiling" Raileh, but I doubt they are to blame for that. It is a bit funny to see them all here because it doesn't seem like this place is any better for climbing than hundreds of spots I've seen in the States. Of course it is cheaper and looks cooler. Raileh is an ideal place to watch rock climbers because of the contrast in the surroundings.

I do some climbing myself the next day when I discover the blissfully deserted lagoon inside the plateau. Climbing around here was actually more than a bit dangerous for me. I know what all of you legitimate climbers, along with my relatives, are thinking: "that yo-yo, some day someone is going to find his foolish carcass at the bottom of a cliff." OK, point taken, but I have two non-persuasive counterpoints.

First, you lose a huge amount of the attraction of climbing when you use equipment. Climbing up (or down!) a cliff without a safety harness sends your mind into an intense state of concentration over every movement. I get an edgy sensation at the base of my neck. Fear is just under the surface and you have to fight it down or you've had it. When you reach a relative safe spot you have an incredible rush of exhilaration. I've never felt anything remotely similar with a harness on.

Second, on a risk-taking scale of 1 being complete daredevil and 10 being super safety conscious, I'm about a 3.5. Maybe it's not much of an excuse to say that there are plenty of people more gonzo than I am, but I do think I'm usually pretty safe.

OK, now that I've said that, I'm going to completely contradict my last paragraph because I think I set a record this day for most stupid things done before noon. I decide to head over to the Ao Ton Sai beach in the far northwest. When I get to the end of the west Raileh Beach, I ask a guy hanging out there which is the best method to get past the large separating rocks -- up and over or by wading. He says to go by water as he's seen people choosing that route. Then I see a couple taking the water route, so I decide to follow.

Well, less than half way in it is quite obvious that the tide has come in way too much for this to be the right way. If that guy on the beach saw people go this way, it must have been at least an hour ago. Large waves toss us about and the water is at shoulder level. The couple turns back. I tempt fate once too often and press ahead. I figure that everything in my knapsack is already soaking wet, so what could happen to me?

Umm, hello? You could get bashed into sharp, jagged underwater rocks by these huge crashing waves and get multiple lacerations on your legs and arms! Unfortunately I only think about this after it already happens to me. To add insult to injury, I lose a precious Smartwool sock.

I arrive at Ao Ton Sai, bloodied and dripping. I will later use up all of my antiseptic cream and bandages to tend to the many wounds I got from this. Fortunately, none are too deep, so I got away with one here, even though it turns out they take quite a long time to heal. I make a vow to be less of a bonehead.

Ao Ton Sai may be the most scenic Pranang beach for sitting, but the rocks and shells make it bad for swimming. Some ladders lead up to cliff caves and lush hills rise up behind the beach. I'm surprised by the large number of bungalows here, dirt cheap (and looking like it)at 50-100b. I've made the switch to Viewpoint by this time and am not tempted to move here. I guess people must come over here to seek more solitude. It is less busy here, but not quiet enough to justify the inconvenience.

My injuries stop me from acting on an urge to bolt from Raileh, a blessing in disguise as I fall in love with the place after I discover that everything is practically deserted before 10am. and doesn't seem at all busy until midafternoon. So, I develop a mini-routine where I wake at dawn and have about 7 hours of near paradise exploring the many fabulous nooks and crannies (low tide in the morning) here. Then I rest a bit before swimming and eating. Just to make everything perfect, the weather is great in the morning and tends to rain in the afternoon.

I do scramble over to the lagoon again, but refrain from any dangerous climbing. I mainly observe the monkeys, which are wild enough to let you be, yet used to people so I can get close to them. A band of them decides to join me as I climb down. Three of them get into a big monkey spat -- hissing, growling, and snapping at each other. Come on guys! As if the mosquitoes buzzing in my ears wasn't distracting enough!

I make a few trips into the southern Phranang (Princess) Cave, which involves some climbing, but nothing difficult. I love this place and the dark solitude inside, looking out at the vast central columns, and listening to the bats and the waves outside. I can sense the spirituality of this sacred cave, honored by a shrine full of phallic icons at its entrance. Fishing ships sail by to blow off firecrackers before heading out for the catch.

Before departing, I pay my last respects to this cave, asking the Princess for safe passage on the seas. Directly after doing this, I walk a few meters up the beach, admiring the patterns of the sand crabs, when I see something in the water. It's small wooden figurine that resembles a princess on a throne -- a kan-kan!

I know, it's probably a seated Buddha figure made in Bangkok and sold to some tourist for 100b, who then lost it while swimming. Doesn't matter, now it is a kan-kan and a symbol of for my trip to Raileh. I expect great things from it.