January 14, 2000

     We leave today for Singapore.  Our rough itinerary for the next year is 1/3 Asia, 1/3 Africa, and 1/3 we aren't exactly sure yet.  We are determined to spend more time at the beach, more time hiking, and less time in cities.
     Departing from Kennedy Airport in New York, we felt like we were already in another country.  Literally all of our co-passengers were Asian or of Asian descent.  The din of other languages around us was both comforting (it felt good to be on the raod again) and terrifying (we didn't understand a word).  During the flight, which included a near death experience, and subsequent "mechanical" layover, we made several good friends.  Lady even received a lesson on how to eat properly with chopsticks.
January 15, 2000

     Still flying.  The trip would take over 48 hours.  Our cheap ticket was not exactly direct.
January 16, 2000

     We finally arrived, sleep deprived and excited, in Singapore at 11pm local time.  We quickly changed money, took a bus to the city center, found a hotel, and went to the nearest cafe for a celebratory drink (a tradition in every new country).
     We immediately were befriended by a slightly inebriated carpet salesman from India.  We enjoyed a spirited conversation about world economics, spiritual purity, and SIngapore history.  Later, he boasted about how he earns his living by overcharging tourists.  I think he was genuinely surprised when we didn't accept his offer to visit his store.

Hotel - $21, Food - $4, Trans. - $2     Total - $26
January 17, 2000

     Singapore is a small city-state island located at the southern tip of Malaysia.  This puts it at just 100 miles north of the Equator and the weather is fantastic.  (I am assuming you like it sunny and hot.)  It is comparitively very wealthy, modern and high-tech, while still maintaining the traditions of its multi-cultural population.  SIngapore is 77% Chinese, 14% Malay, 7% Indian, and the other 2% are others.  Because it was a British colony until 1959, English is the working language.  Singapore makes for easy travel.
     Anyway, we are suffereing greatly from jet lag and would be awake only seven hours today.  We walked around downtown and in Chinatown for most of this time.  We also stopped at a hawker center for our first taste of Asia.  We had claypot chicken and rice which is cooked over fire in an earthenware pot.  The rice tasted almost caramelized and was excellent with the roasted chicken.  A good harbinger of food to come.

Hotel - $21, Food - $6, Random (internet) - $4     Total - $31
January 18, 2000

     Feeling much better, we did more serious exploring.  We toured the marina area (called Boat Quay: irritatingly this is pronounced "key".  Astute readers will remember our similar experience in Caye Caulker, Belize).  Next, we went to the National Botanical Garden.  It was close to paradise, including the world's largest orchid garden.  Later, we enjoyed the sights of Arab Street with its crowded, small shops selling fabrics, rugs, and baskets.
     A big part of this experience is the food.  We thought we would describe our meals for the next couple of days so that you have a flavor, too.
     Breakfast: Roti prata.  A north Indian dish of lightly fried dough covered in a creamy curry sauce.  Really yummy, especially with a cup of coffee sweetened with condensed milk.
     Lunch: Chinese lemon shicken and rice.
     Dinner: Mutton beryani.  Muslim food of spicy, stewed lamb over rice.

Hotel - $21, Food - $16, Trans. - $2, Museums - $3     Total - $42
January 19, 2000

     We started our day in lIttle India where we were invited into the Sri Veramakaliamman temple.  After removing our shoes, we entered the incense-filled temple and were impressed by the brilliant paintings and statues.  There were three preists attending to the constant streat of devotees.  We were befreinded by a man who helped us understand some of the Hindu rituals we were seeing.  First, the marking of ash on the foreheads serves as a reminder that in death everyone is reduced to ashes.  Therefore, doing good is more important than acquiring temporary world  goods.  We also liked the symbolism of breaking coconuts.  This sybolizes destruction of the outer ego to reveal the kindness and compassion af the individual inside.
     The man was part of a wedding which he insisted we stay for.  It was to be a traditional ceremony, although it was a "love" marriage.  The bride wore a red silk gown with flowers woven into her waist-length hair.  The groom wore a cream shirt and pant also made of silk.  The ceremony concluded with us throwing yellow rice and rose petals.  Unfortunately for the bride and groom, they would be seperated for several days.  Here, the priest picks the wedding day based on numerology.  He also shooses the wedding night which can be up to a week later.
     We later visited the Sultan Mosque.  While the outside is impressive and has gold minarets, we found the inside to be spartan and unwelcoming.
     Finally, we went to a Buddhist temple.  It was filled with gold, black laquer furniture and red lanters.  Here devotees made offerings to Buddha of lotus flowers and incense.  The also sought the guidance from the Goddess of Mercy, Kuan Shih Yin, with a ceremony that included shaking shop stick and rolling red dice.
     Breakfast: Roti prata
     Lunch: Dumpling soup with yellow noodles
     Dinner: McDonald's (Lady insisted)

Hotel  - $21, Food - $18, Museums - $3, Random (internet) - $4     Total - $46
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