february19

February 19, 2001

     We bused six hours to the border on a typical bumpy, dusty Cambodian road. Crossing into Vietnam quickly revealed the contrasts. First, the bureaucracy, as we were required to register at several stations manned by indifferent government officials. Next, the rice paddies were much greener (from irrigation) and production clearly more organized. And yes, the people really do wear mollusk hats.
     Another couple of hours and we were in Saigon, now called Ho Chi Minh City. It was big, bustling, and overwhelmingly unattractive. We stayed in the De Tham district which was as commercial and capitalist as any in the U.S. It certainly didn't feel like Communist Vietnam.
     My cultural experience for the day was at the barbershop. First, I was instructed to take off my shirt and later he shaved my forehead. By the end, I could have passed the most rigourous military inspection.

Hotel - $7, Food - $6, Trans - $18, Random (Visa - $35, Books - $12)     Total - $113

February 20, 2001

     We explored the city today and for a snack tried Vietnamese pancakes. Ours had sprouts, pork fat, shrimp, green onions, and globs of butter wrapped in a fried pancake crust. We have agreed to stick with ice cream.
     We also visited the War Remnant's Museum. Here, the government has documented the "War of American Aggression" with infuriating propaganda. Only photographs honestly prortrayed the heavy costs paid by all sides.
     Later, we walked across town to meet a friend for dinner. This brought us up close to a side of Saigon not mentioned by the state tourism office - piled up trash, rats, prostitiues, puking drunks, and spent needles. Back in a white-washed tourist area, we had an outrageously expensive evening at an old French bistro. For desert, we saw the filming of The Quiet American (starring Michael Caine) in front of the Continental Hotel.

Hotel - $7, Food - $42, Museum - $1, random ( Meds - $6, Laundry - $3)     Total - $61

February 22, 2001

     Our options for getting out of town were:
1. local bus and techinically illegal     $2
2. door to door tourist approved bus     $6
3. train with tiered tourist pricing     $12

      We chose option one for the cost and the excitement. To our surprise though, we were treated like honored guests, not criminals. The beginning of the trip was slow as the road was filled with thousands of uniformed women walking to work at an assembly plant. Once on the highway, it was an adrenaline filled ride as our driver used both shoulders to pass. The bus was way overcrowded and those standing were required to duck when we passed police checkpoints. We were caught once but a small bribe put us back on the road quickly.
     We reached Mui Ne beach in time for lunch and a slow afternoon by the South China Sea. The water was full of fishing boats ranging from big trawlers to one person, round wicker baskets.
     I have been running again, which is a great way to independently see how the local people live and work. The only hazard here was the putrid smell of drying fish along the road. Lady and I went for a sunset walk on the beach which wasn't as romantic as it could have been due to the many washed up and quite drowned rats.
     By the way, our local bus ride today saved us less than 20 cents once we added in the cost of motorcycle taxis to and from the bus stations.
Hotel - $18, Food - $12, Trans. - $11     Total - $41

February 23, 2001

     I was up with the sun to watch the fishing. Men were pulling in their shoreline nets and women were sorting the catch - feeder fish, squid, rays, crab, conch, and plastic bags. Everything was used.
     With yesterday's rats and last night's mosquitos, we decided to say goodbye to Mui Ne and continue up the coast to Nha Trang. We arrived in this resort city as the weekend was officially starting. It had a great relaxed atmosphere made even more so when we found a perfect guesthouse.
     Later we shared a dinner table with an old guy who looked just like Mr. Clean. After a few of his stories, though, he had earned a new name.

Hotel - $7, Food - $14, Trans - $12, Random (Internet - $1)     Total - $34

February 24, 2001

     I joined the locals for some exercise along the beach this morning. Badmitton is very popular as is clapping your hands while walking. It was hard to take anyone seriously though as they were all in pajamas.
     To the loud disapproval of Trang's taxi and rickshaw drivers, we walked to Chan Towers. The Chan civilization built six small Hindu temples here in the 7th to 12th centuries. The construction honors life's necessities - water (built near river and lake), soil (built on a hill using earthen bricks) and sun (built facing the sunrise and the temple towers are shaped as flowers). As a further sign of respect, the temple doors are just slightly off true east.

Hotel - $7, food - $10, Museum - $1, Random (Beauty - $3, Internet - $5)     Total - $26