february15

February 15, 2001

     We were up with the sun to continue our adventure. We loved our new freedom, especailly stopping for those special moments. First, a wedding procession walking through town. There was a band, bride and groom, and scores of people following with gifts in hand ranging from wrapped presents to a 6-pack of beer, a leg of beef, live chickens, and canned goods (all with bows). Next, a chicken salesman talking with a customer. He was on a motorcycle with fifty live chickens hung upside down by their feet on a stick. We also saw men plowing their fields by oxen, children casting fishing nets into a small pond, and lots of friendly waves.
     When we drove into Kep, we were immediately intercepted by a woman on a moped who was chanting, "Crab, crab, crab," and making an eating motion. We weren't sure what we were getting into but we followed her anyway. We pulled up at a seaside thatch roof bungalow with open walls and a large rattan mat. We ordered a mountain of peppered crab (for a dollar and a half) and enjoyed the breeze from the Gulf of Thailand. It is hard to imagine anything better.
     A fishing village today, Kep was a French resort. It was heavily bombed during the recent civil war and hasn't recovered its destination status. Kep is small, quaint and as our guide book says, "A real gem". We stayed in the best of the two guesthouses in town (or at least we think we did since we never could find the other one). It was a grand, old villa that sits right on the water.
     After a breathtaking sunset over the gulf, we found a two-table, open-kitchen shack on the water called the Sea Salt Restaurant. The owner and her daughter brought out the biggest fish I have ever seen, a bucket of jumbo prawns, and skewers of chicken to the table as our menu. We said yes to all three. Best of all, we were able to join her as she prepared dinner over a wood fire.
    And if the day wasn't perfect enough already, the town's gernerator shut off early and we had a brilliantly clear night sky.

Hotel - $5, Food - $14, Random (Motorcycle - $6, Gas - $2)     Total - $23

February 17, 2001

     With some regret, we left Kep and biked to Bokor National Park. It was a jarring, scenic three hours up the dirt road through the forest. At the top of the mountain stands the abandoned palace and casino of former Prince Sihuanouk. There is also a waterfall that due to the season was completely dry. Sometimes the journey is better than the destination. On the way out, we stopped at a roadside stand for a soda. The family responded to us as many Cambodians do - they stare, touch, and talk about you for a few minutes. It takes some getting used to. Anyway, after a while, we were finally talking to each other, sharing pictures from home, taking pictures together and lots of laughs as we tried each other's language. As we left, they gave us gifts of local fruits and vegetables.
     Now running late, we tried to hurry on to Sihuanoukville beach. No description will do the "road" justice. Picture a motocross/BMX bike track, but with biger moguls. Because there is so little traffic, the prople were unbelieveably friendly and curious. Kids would race alongside shouting, "Susaday," and we were mobbed every time we stopped.
     It was quite late by the time we rode into Sihuanoukville, which by the way, did not have that "certain charm" our guide book described. Instead we found bed bugs, rats, and a full-on drug scene.

Hotel - $6, Food - $13, Museum - $19, Random (Motorcycle - $6, Gas - $5)     Total - $40

February 18, 2001

     We set off early for the five hour ride to the capital. "Stonerville" was still sleeping while the villages outside were already busy at work - in the fields, drawing water at the community wells, cooking over wood fires. It was surprisingly cool and the sun rise, though majestic, wouldn't warm us for another hour. We stopped for coffee instead. It was a real treat, served in a glass cup with one inch of sweet condensed milk on the bottom and two inches of rich coffee on top.
     Back in Phnom Penh, we joined a thousand or so rowdy men for the Sunday fights. Thai-style kick-boxing is faster and more aggresive than boxing at home. It looks to be a brutal job requiring six hours of training each day and at least one fight every month. Four of the five fights today ended in knock out. The pay is low although the most exciting fighter today did receive tips from the crowd (collected personally by walking through the stands).

Hotel - $6, Food - $13, Random (Motorcycle - 46, Boxing - $2, Laundry - $1)     Total - $28