day87

Day 87

We travelled across the border and to Isla de Ometepe. The large island is in the middle of Lake Nicaragua. It is rural, dusty and very laid-back. We stayed in the "big" town of Altagracia which is really just a few streets and the required central park, church and soccer field.

Hotel $8; Food $14; Trans. $9; Random - entry fees $16, Total $47

Day 88

     I joined a group hiking Volcan Maderas this morning. My 4:30 wake-up alarm was unnecessary as there was a band on a cattle truck playing all night. Apparently, it was a mobile kick-off party for the Conservative candidate for mayor. I question the strategy, however, as I would be more inclined not to vote for the guy who kept me up all night.
     Our group inlcuded two students form Germany, Petra and Anna, another American, Jeff, and Neftali our guide. First, we bused to the other side of the island getting off at a coffee cooperative. After coffee, we set off in earnest and saw lots of butterflies, white-faced monkeys, mountain orchids, and an old petroglyph originating form the island�s first inhabitants. The hiking was challenging because the trail was narrow, steep and muddy. After a few hours, we reached the top and then climbed down into the crater. We found a small lake and went swimming. I have to admit I thought it was very cool to be swimming at the top of the volcano. The water was so cold that I didn�t worry about lava (the volcano is supposedly extinct), but I did have a strong foreboding about sinking right to the center of the earth.
     On the way back, we were caught in a pouring rain storm which turned our trail into a river. Just in case we weren�t soaked enough, Jeff started a puddle splashing war.
     I enjoyed talking with Neftali most of all. He quietly spoke about life in Nicaragua, school, and his time as a Sandinista soldier (at 15) fighting against Contra rebels. Once again, I was reminded how lucky we are back home. Neftali became a great frien to Lady and me and we would spend lots of time together over the next few days.

Hotel $8; Food $5; Trans. $1; Tour $6; Total $20

Day 90

     In a moment of insanity, Anna, Petra and I agreed to hike Volcan Concepcion, a beautiful, green volcano that shoots straight up over 5,000 feet. We left at 5:30, quickly were rained on and then lost in the jungle forest, and later Anna wisely returned home. Undeterred, Anna and I continued on. The "path" was overgrown with vegetation and the wet rocks were treacherous. It only got worse as we climbed above the tree line and into the sand paper plants. I have no idea what these things are really called, but they have hard leaves as big as two feet which are covered in coarse bumps. Not to be unprotected, the stalk has thorns too. We had to go over some, under others and stumble into the rest. It was painful and significantly slowed our progress. We reached the crater after noon.
     We were rewarded though. We had a perfect day and a view across the lake to the east, to the Pacific, Volcan Maderas and all around the island. Strangely, we could hear marching bands practice all the way at the top. Anyway, we had lunch, drank all of our water, and dried our wet clothes on the hot volcanic rocks.
     The trip down was just as long with the added bonus of being harrassed by a troop of howler monkeys. We were about three hours late when Lady and Neftali came to rescue us about 15 minutes from town. All in all, it was a great day.

Hotel $8; Food $16; Total $24

Day 91

Weary of mosquitos, bad food, no internet, no more volcanos, etc., we left the island for Granada. After a bumpy bus ride, a nauseatingly hot ferry, a "direct" bus that dropped us off at a desrted crossroads 5 miles from town, and finally a crowded local bus, we arrived exhausted and shorttempered. Fortunately, our good humor was quickly restored with a strong dose of hamburgers, email and ice cream.

Hotel $10; Food $14; Trans. $8; Random - internet $6; Total $38

Day 86

In the hours before their flight, we were able to tour dowtown San Jose and squeeze in a little more shopping (where we had a security guard follow us around like we were gypsy thieves). We then drove to the airport, took a few photos in the scenic cafeteria, and said goodbyes.
Suddenly alone, we had to decide what to do next - head south for Panama or return to Nicaragua. We chose Nicaragua. After dropping of the jeep, we boarded a bus for the border. After weeks of luxury, we were a little nervous about being back on the budget trail. Our backpacks seemed heavier too.

Hotel $10; Food $12; Trans $9; Random - car $26, parking $2, gas $15, internet $1; Total $83