Day 34

     We both needed a recovery day and decided to give Guatemala City a second chance.  We had a great day exploring and visited Museo Ixchel.  The museum is dedicated to recording traditional Mayan costumes.  We learned about the significance of the different colors, fabrics, and pieces.  You used to be able to distinguish a person's home town and social position from their clothes.
     Walking home, we got drenched in a downpour.  After weeks of great weather, the rainy season finally caught up with us.

Hotel - $8, Food - $11, Trans - $0, Tours - $5       TOTAL - $24

Day 35

     Took a long bus ride north from the city to Coban.  Coban is a coffee town and retains lots of colo0nial charm,  Our white-washed hotel was built in 1880 and we enjoyed its hug veranda overlooking the city. 
     For lunch, we had a typical meal at a small and popular comedor with soup, chicken and tortillas - a great value at $2.  We ran errands in the afternoon like laundry and a haircut for Matt - another bargain at $.60.    

Hotel - $9, Food - $20, Trans - $8, Random (Laundry - $3, Haircut - $1)     TOTAL - $41

Day 36

     We came to Coban because we had heard it is the launching point for the most beautiful place in Guatemala, the pools of Semuc Champey.  We weren't disappointed (although Guatemala has lots of superlative places). 
     Starting early, we joined a small tour group of a Australian girl, an Israeli girl, two Brits (Chris and Allison), and our guide Julio.  It was a beautiful, long and bumpy jeep ride through green hills, coffee and corn farms, and progressively smaller towns.  Semuc Champey is set in the jungle surrounded by steep cliffs.  Its jade green pools and waterfalls are formed by the streams runnihng down from the hills.  With Julio's help, we were able to climb down one waterfall and go under the falls.  Lady says it is one of the best things she has ever done.  We also swam and sunned for hours.
     On the way back to Coban, Julio stopped at his family's house to say hello.  We took the opportunity to visit the church in Lanquin,  It had an inspiring mural of God's hands giving corn to the people of the town.

Hotel - $0 (incl. in tour cost), Food - $20, Tours - $74, Random (Meds $10)     TOTAL - $104

Day 37

    With Chris and Allison, we got up absurdly early and went hiking in a nearby nature reserve.  We hoped to see the elusive quetzal, the national bird of Guatemala, but alas it remains elusive.
     Later Chris and I went to a coffee plantation for a tour and tasting (while Lady and Allison napped).  We aren't coffee snobs yet, but I do know more when I started.  For example, coffee grown at high altitude is best due to the acidity of the soil.  Also, harvesting starts in October here.  Impressed?  P.S.  In Guatemala, they say that their coffee is best because they grow for quality whereas in other countries they grow only for quantity (especially Brazil).  It will be interesting to get their side of the story when we visit Brazil later in the trip.

Hotel - $13, Food - $16, Trans - $3, Tours - $7     TOTAL - $34

Day 38
     We literally travelled all day today.  First, five hours on a crowded local bus that left pavement 30 mintues out of Coban,  Once in the very small town of Uspantan, we waited over an hour to find a pick up going near to our destination.  We were loaded like cattle joined 13 other standing locals and several baby chicks.  We did have the benefit of unbelieveable mountain scenery and the feeling of real adventure.  After being let off at a fork in the dirt road, we caught a bus to Nebaj and arrived just at nightfall.
     Nebaj is in the mountains and it was cold that night.  We found a great restaurant where our 15 year old waitress, cook and cashier named Jacinta prepared a great meal of celery soup, tortillas, beans and chicken.  Jacinta was expressive, funny and alternately very mature and very young.  She goes to high school once a week and works the rest.  We helped her with her social studies homework.
     In Nebaj, we liked the women's costume.  They wear a crimson red skirt with a few vertical gold and navy stripes.  Their blouses are generally white.  On special occasions, the men wear crimson red jackets with navy embroidery.  The jacket is also the symbol of a national political party founded in the region.  Note:  Due to high illiteracy and numerous indiginous languages, political parties are known more by their color and symbol than by name.
Hotel - $10, Food - $12, Trans - $4    TOTAL - $26

Day 39
     We made a great day hike in the mountains today.  We followed small paths through corn fields, walked with kids and their flocks of sheep, and were greeted by men collecting firewood.  Once over the mountain, we arrived in a small village.  Acul remains traditional, speaking Ixel and wearing native dress.  We visited a cheese farm and bought a pound of local swiss (which is made without holes and doesn't taste like swiss).
    After hitchhiking back to Nebaj, we made a late decision to go to Chichicastenango, home of the largest aretsan market in Guatemala on Sundays.  After finding our bus was cancelled that day, we waited several hours for a pickup to Quiche.  Fortunately, we had several friendly locals waiting with us.  At least until the truck came and then it was everyman for himself to get a standing room only spot.  During the three hour ride, we were treated to great scenery including Saturday night festivities in small towns and a spectacular sunset.  Then it started pouring.  Soaking wet, we arrived in Quiche for the night.
Hotel - $12, Food - $20, Trans - $4     TOTAL - $36

Day 40
     The Chichicastenango market was a big disappointment - lots of touristy trinkets and busloads of tourists.  One interesting and genuine experience was our visit to the local church.  It was a good example of how the indigenous people have blended their native religion with Catholicism.  The church was dark and incense filled (to the point of tears) with offerings and candles in front of each saint.  Compared to the ornate cathedrals everywhere else, this church was kind of spooky.
     We didn't linger in Chichi and bused to Antigua.  It was nice to be back in familiar surroundings, almost like home.  We ran into some snorkeling friends from Belize and had fun finding out what the other has been doing. 
     There was a festival celebrating Antigua's birthday (we think) and we went to a Garifuna (like Reggae) concert in the park.  Walking home, we noticed a ferris wheel in the distance and found a carnival.  The rides looked scary (due to age, perceived safety and general grimy appearance).  Seeking other entertainment, I won a plastic colander in a marble game similar to skee ball.  Lady won some equally useless kitchen utensils.  We both traded in for dart guns.
    Clearly the highlight of the evening was Spider Lady.  We paid $.50 to go into a shed where an amazing half woman (head), halfspider (body) was supposed to be.  Everyone was actually a little scared as we waited.  Anyway, the emcee finally pulled back the curtain to reveal the fakest looking mechanical spider legs you have ever seen topped by a real live woman's head.  To prove it was real, I got to touch her face and gave her a sip of coke.  The magic part of where were her legs was actually pretty cool, but we were hoping for a really hairy lady with extra appendages.

Hotel - $8, Food - $16, Trans - $7, Random (Internet - $3, Entertainment - $3)     TOTAL - $37