day150

November 10

     We dedicated the morning to Cusco's "must sees". We started at the Central Market. It is a smorgasborg of sights and smells (most of the good). You can find in the stalls anything you could possibly need from door knobs to pig's heads to witch doctor powders. Then, we visited the Santo Domingo Church which is unimpressive in itself, but it was built on top of the Incan's most important religious temple. The stonework, including smooth, curved, mortarless walls, are unparalled. Finally, we toured the Cathedral which has so much art, gold, silver and intricate woodwork that it can be overwhelming.
     The afternoon was a rush as we sought provisions (tent, food, film, etc.) for a four day hike to Machu Picchu on the famous Inca trail.
     And in the evening we bused to Pisac, a small market town about an hour away. Because market wasn't until Sunday, its narrow cobblestone streets and small plaza were mostly deserted. That is' until the local fire brigade came running into the square for noisy exercises. They were all fired up with enthusiasm and judging by their number, it looked like every household had contributed a member. I asked at the hotel if there were frequent fires in Pisac. He said not that he could remember except during fiestas when fireworks occasionally ignite the spanish moss in the sole Pisonay tree in the plaza.

Hotel - $16, Food - $31, Trans - $1, Museum - $2, Random (Film - $10, Rx - $6)     Total - $66

November 11

     The incas ruled a vast empire stretching from Quito all the way to Chile. Cusco was the birthplace of the gods and its capitol. Pisac is situated in the "Sacred Valley" around Cusco where special crops were grown for religious ceremonies.
     At sunrise, the valley was bewautiful and surrounded by steep, green mountains. We hiked up the mountain directly above Pisac to reach the ruins. It took us over an hour to wind through steep terracing (used to grow maize for chicha) to reach the first guard station. The view was amazing and worth the effort. From here, we could see how the incas had straightened the Urubaba river to gain more agricultural land. We kept climbing and were continually surprised by the vastness and beauty of the old mountain city.
     At the ruins, we met a large tour group of high school student. After exchanging hellos, the teacher asked for a photo. We said sure expecting to be the photographer. Instead, we spent about fifteen miunutes posing with each student. We felt like rock stars. It was fun until the next school group walked by and we repeated the photo fun. Now it was too much and we wanted our anonyminity back. I can't help to think what a scary show and tell we will make when those pictures are developed.
     Anyway, we had good intentions of moving on this afternoon, but friends, a sunny day, rocking chairs on the porch, and brick oven pizza kept us here for the night.

Hotel - $16, Food - $13, Random (gear) - $33

November 12

     We awoke to lots of activity throughout the town. Vendors from all over Peru were preparing for market. It is increasingly just for tourists and we were disappointed with the trinkets. Luckily, we met an American professor who had recently sponsored a weavers co-op to preserve the textile tradition and provide a source of income to indigenous women. We were captivated by the artistry and storytelling of the pieces.
     Anyway, we bused down the valley to Ollantaytombo, the site of another sacred and beautiful Inca ruin. Ollantaytombo was designed as a temple, but became a fortress. Thanks to the encroachment of the Spanish, it was also unfinished, allowing an interesting look at the construction process including stones and ramps (used to drap the massive rocks from the valley floor). The town itself wasn't particularly friendly and at times was overrun with tour buses from Sucso. We were stricly business as we made final preparations for the Inca trail.

Hotel - $9, food - $9 - Trans - $2, Random (gear) - $4     Total - $29

November 13

     We had checked out before 6am but the plaza was already crowded. Fifty or so local indigenous men were mulling about waiting to be hired as porters. They dressed in traditional costumes of bright red woolen ponchos and red hats with brightly colored yarn tassles (quickly shed in favor of t-shirts and shorts once the "portering' commenced).
     We were carrying our own bags so we took a bumpy road by kombi to Railway Kilometer 82. Here we crossed a pedestrian bridge over the Urubaba river and officially started the trail. I know I have been exceptionally long winded lately so I will only say that this hike and country are special. In the shadow of snow-capped peaks, we walked through small villages and terrafed farms, along streams, past lonely Inca ruins, lots of ups, a few down, etc. Incredibly, we also had all of this to ourselves (save for the occasional shepherder and flock). Being well acclimitized, we were able to enjoy the moments, too.
     We camped early, just shy of Dead Woman's Pass in a grassy field with lots of alpaca and llama to keep us company. To celebrate our success, we feasted on tinned meat for dinner.

Hotel - $0, Food - $7, Trans - $1, Random (gear) - $4     Total - $12

November 15

Tired, weak, and still not feeling better we decided to return to KM82. It was difficult to give up on Macchu Picchu. Worse was my walk of shame through group after group of people on the way down (where were they when we needed them?)

Hoel - $9, Food - $7, Trans - $5, Random (gear - $4, internet - $1, Laundry - $2) Total - $28