day142

Day 142     November 2, 2000

     We woke up early to take the train to Huancavelica. Unfortuantely, everyone else woke up even earlier and there were no seats left. We split up and proceeded to meet some interesting people. Lady sat with two witch doctors from Piura. We all became good friends that day which culminated in a traditional ceremony. For luck, I held a (real) shrunken head in my right hand, a charm in my left, and after a few words, the priest blew alcohol in my face.
     We also met a very nice woman and her 5-year old daughter. After a few hours, Elva said she hoped to baptize Rosario that day and asked us to be her Padrinos. It seemed right, so we agreed. We then travelled to meet Elva�s parents in the small Quecuha town of Yauli. They were great hosts and we loved the Grandmother. Abuela still wears the traditional costume of her village including felt hat, bright sweaters, and several skirts worn on top of each other for warmth. She was direct (and generous) in ways that only grandmothers can be. She also especially like Lady�s hair and would touch it whever she could. Anyway, we couldn�t find a priest in either Yauli or Huancavelica so we decided to postpone until our next visit. So much for my `luck`
     P.S. The train ride and scenery were spectauclar, too. We passed through 20 or so mountain tunnels as we followed the river in a deep valley.

Hotel -$6, Food -$11, Trans. -$9     Total -$26

Day 143     November 3, 2000

     Abuela, Elva, and Rosario met us at the train station to say goodbye. We then travelled three hours to a small town where we would catch the bus to Ayacucho.
     The eight hour bus ride was hot, bumpy, and above all, dusty. We couldn`t sleep either because the other passengers kept coming to talk to us. Conversations ranged from how do we like Peru, to can we translate the Bible, to how can they export orchids to the U.S. Everyone was so genuinely curious and friendly. We are still 20-plus hours from Cusco, but delighted we are visitng this area.

Hotel -$10, Food -$12, Trans. -$11, Random - internet -$1     Total -$34

Day 144     November 4, 2000

     Ayacucho means City of Blood in Quechua. It has been the site of many significant battles in Peru�s history, from epic wars in Pre-Inca times to the decisive defeat ot the Spanish for Independence. More recently in the late 80�s and early 90�s, the region gave birth to the Sendero Luminoso Revolutionary movement and its subsequent violence. Now that Ayacucho is peaceful again, the area is being resettled (all the farms and surrounding villages were abandoned) and tourists are very slowly returning.
     We joined a group of tourism students from Lima to visit Inca ruins several hours to the South. As we drove through the high plains, the small communities became increasingly more rustic: 1 room adobe homes, no electricity, out houses and land that is tilled by hand or ox-pulled plows. In addition to crops of wheat and potatoes, farmers tend cows, goats, and sheep (all of whom are adorned with ceremonial colored ribbon earrings). It was like peering into the past to see indigenous women in traditional dress hand milking cows in the field.
     Our first stop was at Intihuantana which was a retreat for vacationing Incans in the 15th and 16th centuries. There were baths, villas, and a man-made lake. The weather was more pleasant than the Incan capital of Cusco (but close enough for easy travel). Here we also saw a first glimpse at Incan stonework. They were true craftsmen and built things to last (all buildings, walls, temples, etc. were built without mortar).
     Next, we visited the former temple and plaza of Vilcashuman. Interestingly, the Spanish destroyed much of it and built a church on it foundations. By using the Incan stones, they hoped to gain acceptance for their church by simultaneously eliminiating old significance. The site also includes a carved sacred rock that is believed to have been used to predict the future. The therory is that the priests would pour sacrificial blood (or chicha) into the carvings and then read its flow.
     P.S. On the way to the ruins, we rounded a corner and found a minibus tipped over in the ditch. Then I found myself helping to right it. With a shattered, popped-out windshield and a crunched-in side, the bus continued on its way.

Hotel -$10, Food -$12, Tour -$23     Total -$47