Day 138     October 29, 2000      The procession finally ended this morning at 2am with a fireworks celebration.  We had a great view (our room was on the 15th floor) as the firworks exploded in front of our window.      The big news of the day was President Fujimori replaced all of the country�s military leaders.  This was a pre-emptive strike against a much rumoured coup.      We stayed away from politics by going to museums and the symphony. Hotel -$9, Food -$22, Trans -$1, TIckets -$11, Random -Laundry -$2, Meds -$7     Total -$52

Day 139     October 30, 2000      Founded in 1535 by Francisco Pizarro, Lima was the most powerful city (and wealthy) in the Spanish empire.  Its preeminent position in the Americas was ended by a large earthquake in the 1700s and later independence and founding of surrounding of surrounding republics.  Today, Lima is a sprawling city of over 8 million.  For much of the year, it is covered by a grey misty and smoggy sky.  November marks the official start of summer although it came a few days early this year.  It was a beautifully sunny day today.      Lima is also relatively expensive and we decided to move on.  Somehow we again missed our bus and bought tickets for the overnight bus to Huancayo.  With a free afternoon, we went back downtown for more sightseeing.  We saw more than we bargained on...      We were inside the Cathdral when Lady heard shots and shouting.  Soon, the church started to fill with tear gas.  When we ventured outside, we found riot police clearing the Plaza de Armas of Anti-Fujimori demonstrators.  The protestors who started with banners, posters, and chants became more vilolent as the day turned to night.  They set fires, threw rocks, stopped traffic, etc.  The police were very calm and only responded with tear gas when the crowds were especially unruly.      Oddly, with all this going on around us (we were stuck in the Plaza) we never felt like we were in any danger.  At one point, a heavily armed policeman did stop us, but ony to show us how to breathe through the tear gas.  And later, a demonstrator guided us out of an area that had become suddenly tense.  Life just continued on an usual everywhere else.  There were even ice cream vendors and shoe shine guys working the crowds. Hotel -$0, Food -$18, Trans. $15, Tour -$3, Random, internet -$2     Total -$38

Day 140     October 31, 2000      Another sleepy arrival.  This time in Huancayo which is a little off the beaten path and on the slowest, bumpest route to Cusco.  We came this way because we hoped to find friendly people, great scenery, interesting archaelogical sights, regional food, and few tourists.      We first travelled to the ruins of Warivilca, a few dusty miles outside of town.  It was closed for renovation, but an archaeologist / brickmason allowed us inside and gave us a private tour.  His stories about the small temple, built 1300 years ago, were fascinating - from the warrior Huari tribe, to sacrifices, to the sacred river and at least 450 year old trees.      We came back to Huancayo for lunch and a religious procession.  The streets were covered in artwork of colored sand and flowers. Wwe expected a happy parade, but instead it was a serious, almost somber occasion.  The devotees, carrying the heavy replica, were accompanied by women wearing black lace veils and burning incense.      Saving the best for last, today is Halloween.  The holiday is not as accepted as it is at home, but there were plenty of eager children in costumes.  Interestingly, they trick or treat in stores rather than in neighborhoods.  Lady was perhaps more excited than the kids and bought several bags of candy to hand out on the street.  The candy didnt last long, though, as a small mob formed around the crazy gringa. Hotel .$12, Food -$17, Trans. -$2, Random -internet -$1, stamps -$1, Meds -$3     Total -$38

Day 141     November 1, 2000      We had a fun day exploring small towns in the picturesque Mantaro valley.  We ended up in the energetic and friendly town of Juaja-  First, it was market day.  We found indian women offering everything from olives to toothpaste to animal placentas.  In addition, it was Dia de Todos los Santos, a two-day national holiday where everyone visits relatives at the cemetary with gifts of crosses and flowers.  It is a celebration with lots of graveside drinking and dancing.  Here we ate Carnero al Palo.  Basically, it is grilled sheep, although, we didnt know it at the time.  On the griil (cooked whole) it looks like a big dog and we didnt have our dictionary with us.  Anyway, feeling adventurous and with a little encouragement, we tried this regional specialyty and loved it.      P.S. Adding to the taken transportation list, we rode in a moto-rickshaw taxi today.  Our best description is a motorized tricycle although it may be best to wait for the pictures. H�tel -$12, Food -$9, Trans. -$3, Random -Meds -$1     Total -$25