day134

Day 134     October 25, 2000

     We made an incredible day trip. First, we toured the ruins of Tucume which were built in the 10th to 14th centruries by the Lambayeque civilization. Rising from the desert, the adobe structures formed the biggest political and religious center of its time. Today, the complex has eroded significantly, but we found it easy to imagine its grandeur. Topping off the morning we sampled chicha sold by the local Indians. Chicha is a fermented maize drink that is thick, sweet, and very refreshing. We also realized soon after that it is surprisingly strong.
     Next, we visited the Bruning museum dedicated to the tombs of Sipan. Discovered just over 10 years ago, the tombs of the ruling lords have provided an unparalleled look at the Moche culture of the 2nd centrury. The museum includes untouched mummies, exceptional funeral fabrics, pottery, and gold and silver pieces. We found the spondylus chest necklaces, made of small shells, turquiose and gold beads to be unusually stunning.
     Northern Peru has been a complete surprise. The people are genuinely friendly, the weather is great, and the food is unique and excellent. For lunch, we had yucca soup, baked chicken with rice covered in avocado sauce, and naranjilla juice. For dinner, we had another regional specialty of boiled potatoes in a spicy cheese sause, real chcken soup, beef medallions with rice and pureed potatoes, flan, and cinamon juice. We also had a noisy protest rally in the streets.

Hotel -$8, Food -$11, Trans. -$3, Tours -$8, Random, book -$2     Total -$32

Day 135     October 26, 2000

     We travelled further south to Trujillo which is the capital of the region. Trujillo is a big, noisy city with a relatively calm center. There are restored colonial mansions, a big plaza and churches, the interiors of which are as beautiful as any we have seen.

Hotel -$12, Food -$14, Trans. -$6, Random, postcards -$2     Total -$34

Day 136     October 27, 2000

     We are trying to earn our junior archaelogists badges. Today we visited Chan Chan. It was built by the Chimu civilization during the 9th to 14th centuries. Covering an area of 15 square desert miles, the ruins consist of 9 royal palaces and associated cities, each surrounded by 30-foot protection walls. Inside these walls (only one door) were the roayal residence, ceremonial areas, food storage, wells, administrative offices, and ultimately the king�s tomb. Once the king died, the new king would construct a new palace to live in and be burired. Today, visitors are permitted into only one palace and we found it (perhaps too) aggressively restored. Still, its size leaves quite an impression and there are still a few original walls with zoomorphic figutres.
     Next, we visited museums (archaeological, of course) and at one we were beseiged by friendly school children. They asked us to say their names in English and would scream with laughter with our responses.
     As much fun as we are having in Northern Peru, we are rapidly running out of time. We have decided to save some of the best, but difficult to access, ruins as well as arguably the world{s best hiking in the Cordillera Blanca for our next trip to Peru. We booked on an overnight bus to Lima.
     Before we left, we followed fireworks to find a procession in front of the cathedral that was celebrating the Virgen de la Puerta. It had a Mardi Gras atmosphere with bands, flowers, and an order of dancing devotees protecting the replica of the Virgen. The men wore red capes, white pants and jewelled flowing bandanas and the women wore red silk shirts and floral blouses.

Hotel -$0, Food - $8, Trans - $36, Tours -$9, Random, internet -$1     Total -$54

Day 137     October 28, 2000

     We arrived in Lima sleepy and just in time for the largest religious procession in South America. With thousands of participants, the annual pilgrimage is dedicated to Se�or de Los Milagros (patron saint of Lima) and starts at the Las Nazarenas monastary. This conveniently is literally next door to the only affordable downtown hotel. The inconvenient part came in trying to get to it. We had splurged for a taxi and then discoxerd the roads were closed for blocks. Next, we made little progress walking through the crowd with our bags. Giving up, we just enjoyed the beautiful experience. After the outdoor mass, devotees dressed in purple robes slowly carried the 1-ton silver platform with a replica of the Se�or through the streets. They would do so for 18 hours.
     With a boost of energy provided by cafe con leche, we toured the dowtown area. We started on the Plaza de Armas, where Peru declared independence from Spain in 1821. The Plaza is grandly colonial and around it stands the Governement Placace and the Cathedral. We really enjoyed the San Francisco Church with its wooden altars and painting of hte Last Supper (which has been modified for Peruvian cuisine including cuy, potatoes, and chicha.) Underneath the church are the spooky catacombs. Back in the 1600�s the city�s dead were buried here (rich in private tombs, poor in common graves).
     Another highlight was the Biennieal art exhibit wth lots of modern and political art.
     We finished the day with an evening stroll in the shopping district. Here we successfully defended ourselves from an inept pick-pocket.

Hotel -$9, Food -$9, Trans -$3, Tour -$3, Random, phone -$1, postcards -$1,     Total -$26