Day 106 Lady:      My relationship with Maria is quickly crumbling.  She (forgive me) is a bit of an old maid and was shocked to learn that I have a boyfriend.  She asked a million questions about Matt and then proceeded to teach me Spanish with every sentence about Matt - "Mateo esta en la monta�a", "Mateo sabe matematica", "Mateo no sabe tocar un instrumento".  My notebook looks like the diary of an obsessed woman.       Sadly, today was my last day of Salsa lessons.  As I had mastered the basics, we tackled turns today.  It was only a matter of time before one of us would get injured.  Fortunately, Lothar�s toe didn�t actually break.  Matt:      The guides let us "sleep" an extra hour becuase the weather was really nasty with lots of snow and wind.  Sleep had been hard becuase of the combined effects of cold, altitude and excitement.  Fortunately, the weather broke just after midnight.  We had a quick hot breakfast and were out the door by 1:00.  I was well protected against the elements:  rented plastic boots (like ski boots), 2 pair socks, 2 pair pants, rented rain pants, harness, 2 t-shirts, polartec sweater, goretex jacket, rented gloves, scarf, hat and headlamp.  I was also carrying a backpack with an extra sewater, food and  water as well as crampons and ice axe for later.       The sky was so full of stars it was difficult to recognize constellations.  We also had a great view of the lights of Quito.  I had a difficult time just following the trail.  We walked through and up  a scree field for about an hour.  When we arrived at the snowfield, we put on our crampons and roped up (due to crevasse danger).  For the next five hours, we climbed up the mountain with Dennis and I increasingly feeling the effects of altitude.  A little after dawn and just 100 meters from the summit, we decided to turn back.  It was a difficult decision to be so close, but I was dizzy, had vomited several times already, and was concerned about hiking back safely.  Jan and Freddy went on to the summit for us.      Exhausted, we drove back to Quito.  Sleep came much easier tonight. Hotel $8, Food $19, Trans. $1, Tour $90, Random - school $20,  Total $138

Day 107 Lady:      Finally, I found a subject Martha likes to talk about more than Matt - Telenovelas.  Telenovelas are Latin American soap operas.  She devoted two hours to explaining the difference between each country�s shows (Mexico - loud women, ugly men, silly endings; Colombia - beautiful women, very popular; Brazilian - her favorite, dubbed from Portugese, good backgrounds and music).  My homework was to watch her two favorites and report on it in the morning. Matt:      Rest day.  The most ambitious thing I attempted all day was going to the roof to read and sun. Hotel $8, Food $21, Random - school $20, laundry $1,  Total $50

Day 108      Lady:    I had to write a final paper today telling all about myself.  It was very good if I do say so myself.  I told about growing up in Mississippi, my family, my favorite books, etc.  When Maria finished reading i, she asked, "Why didn�t you write about Mateo?".  I learned quite a bit of Spanish this week but frankly I�m glad it is over. Matt:      I have heard that you can�t remember pain.  I believe it because I signed up for another climbing trip.  This time to Cotopxi, a beautiful snow covered volcano of 19,000 feet.  I went witt the same guide, Freddy, and the scenic drive south was uneventful.  It snowed hard on us as we walked the last hour up volcanic scree to the refuge.  The refuge is at well over 15,000 feet and was cold even when I was in my sleeing bag.       We followed the same routine:  dinner at 5pm, try to sleep until midnight and then out the door by 1:00.  I  was too tired to seriously consider a summit attempt and a bad snow storm made sure no one would make it up that day.  A big disappointment.  Hotel $8, Food $7, Tour $70, Random - school $20,  Total $105

Day 109      After returning from Cotopaxi, we went to the movies and out for dinner.  Our restaurant overloooked the main intersection of "Gringolandia" (a somewhat gaudy area of about 5 streets in downtown Quito).  Here you are six times more likely to run into another tourist than an Ecuadorean, but it is remarkably convenient when you crave Thai food, need to arrange a combo bungee jumping and white water rafting excursion, want to drink organic coffee and send email at the same time, or just want to meet other travellers.  Hotel $8, Food $12, Trans. $1, Tour $70, Random - internet 4, movie $4,  Total $99