| July 3, 2001 We were back on the train en route to Bled, Slovenia. The ride was spectacular as we travelled throught the Alps. Somehow the mountains appeared tame and orderly, even the snow capped ones. Bled (what a great name!) is a resort town complete with a gorgeous hilltop castle (built in 1004) and pristine lake. Hotel rooms were expensive so we walked around town looking for 'SOBE' signs. Families rent out rooms for additional income. We like it because it allows for more interaction with 'real' people. We leisurely took in Bled's best sights and museums. Note: Slovenia was part of the Republic of Yugoslavia but declared independence in 1990. This caused a brief skirmish with Serbia, however, Slovenia was well-armed and avoided what happened in Bosnia and Kosovo (i.e., Serbia's ethnic cleansing campaigns). Hotel - 23, Food - 20, Trans - 45, Museums - 5 Total - 91 |
| July 4, 2001 This morning we rented a small wooden boat to see the lake. Much to my shame, Lady proved to be the much better rower. Our destinantion was the picturesque island in the middle and its church (dating back tho the 8th century). The church is know for its 'Bell of Wishes'. We rang it several times - no word yet on its effectiveness. Later, we moved to a smaller town and bigger lake. Bohinj is an idyllic farming community set at the base of the Julian Alps. We enjoyed the green pastures, dairies, and women working the fields with pitchforks. We loved the country cooking, too. Hotel - 15, Food - 23, Trans - 5, Random (Boat Rental - 7) Total - 50 |
| July 5, 2001 While Lady relaxed at the lake, I couldn't resist the chance to hike Mt. Triglav, at 2864 meters, the highest point in Slovenia The lower paths were scenic with mountain flowers, surly mountain goats, fragrant pine trees and bumble bees. Above the tree line, it was rocky, steep and snow-covered. At the summit, I was surprised that the locals had brought their cell phones. Anyway, on the way down I attempted a different route. I was quickly up to my knees in snow and lost in a heavy fog. I reoriented and found the quickest way to 'civilization'. After 13 hours, I arrived in the tiny towq of Trenta. Too late for public transportation so I hitchihiked to the bigger town of Bovec. Here I was told getting back to Bohinj tonight was impossible. Only twenty miles or so as the crow flies, but it would be six hours by bus (via the capital). Further, I had planned to stay in the mountain refuge so I didn't have more than a few tolars. I wandered around Bovec like a vagrant looking for an inexpensive Sobe. Well after dark and well out of town, I found a room with an exceptionally nice retired couple. They invited me into their home and we had a great time talking about my day and how I would get home tomorrow. Somehow we commnuicated with me speaking in Spanish and they in Italian and German. When he shared his bottle of Grappa, my Italian improved considerably. Hotel - 23, Food - 8 Total - 31 |
| July 6, 2001 It ended up being easier to just meet Lady in Ljubiana. Here we enjoyed a quiet day in this small and quaint capitol (of less than 300,000 people). Hotel - 22, Food - 10, Trans - 15, Random (movie - 6) Total - 53 |
| July 7, 2001 To save on accomodation costs, we had stayed in a youth hostel. This is not at all recommened for those who like cleanliness or quiet. It did, however, give us the opportunity to eat at their Soviet-style cafeteria. In addition to bread and cheese, we were able to ladle watery coffee into tin cups from the 50 quart pots. After sightseeing (castle, folk dancing, farmer's market for delicious peaches and cherries), we departed for Hungary. At the train station, we learned the easiet connection would be through Croatia. We arranged for an overnight stop in Zagreb which was just long enough to discover a city as beautiful and electric as Prague. Our only complaint was another night at a grotty hotstel. We have now both sworn it also would be our last. Hotel - 26, Food - 37, Trans - 20 Total - 83 |
| July 8, 2001 Getting to Pecs, Hungary was more adventure than we had planned. At the border we needed to buy our ongoing ticket. Unfortunately the teller didn't speak English (nor we Hungarian) and only accepted forint. And we were in a town of no more than 500 at 7:00 on a Sunday morning. A shopkeeper took pity on us and changed enough money to get us going again. The teller, who had earlier buried her head in her hands and shut her window on us, was all smiles when I showed her my new forint. Anyway, in Pecs, we had a great day at a wine and food festival. We feasted on local cuisine and watched the craftsmen, musicians, and dancers. Hotel - 19, Food - 14, Trans - 21 Total - 54 |
| July 9, 2001 It was raining today so we decided to take the day off (much needed after yesterday's festival). We did go to the neighborhood grocery where we amused and/or frustrated just about everyone in the store. Hotel - 19, Food - 15, Trans - 1 Total - 35 |
| July 10, 2001 We couldn't leave Pecs without first visiting the 4th century catacombs. The Christian frescoes were basic but intriguing. That done, we took the slow bus to Kecskemet ( and stopped at every town in between). We were in wine country and the land was full of grapes. We liked Kecskemet - big churches and plazas, shady cobblestone streets and pedestrian walks, and lots of inviting sidewalk cafes. Hotel - 19, Food - 11, Trans. - 14 Random (museum - 6) Total - 50 |
| July 11, 2001 More easy travel today. We shopped for old books at sidewalk shops and fresh peaches at the market. We also stopped at the photography museum for a great exhibit on pre-WWII life in Hungary. Hotel - 19, Food - 13, Trans - 2, Random (museum - 2, Movie - 2, internet - 2) Total - 40 |