Rather than spend another night in the tree house, we decided to take the overnight express bus to Guatemala City. The bus didn't leave until 11:30 pm so we played several games of Spadeswith Leah from Texas and Simon from Denmark at the Finca. After all the local buses, the express bus was like flying first class (and cost as much, too).
We arrived in Guatemala CIty at 6am and the streets were already bustling with activity. We had to take a taxi to the Antigua bus. The driver was a little dishonest and overcharged us about $2. (Our first bad experience on the trip). It was my fault for not clarifying the "total" cost before getting in.
The bus to Antigua was packed like the proverbial sardines - three to a seat and one or two in between. It makes the curves on the road lots of fun and allows you to know you neighbor very well (especially when the person next to you is breastfeeding her baby).
Antigua is a charming colonial city and a popular tourist destination (lots of language schools). Picture cobblestone streets, whitwashed buildings and a great cultural plaza. It is in a valley surrounded by hills and volcanoes.
Our first impression was not that good, however, as it took us over an hour to find a room. Matt got so frustrated he quit the search and got a haircut. We wandered the city for most of the day. We especially enjoyed a Mayan Music museum. Instruments ranged from a marimba (like a xylophone with gords on the bottom) ,to a wood flute, and a cow jaw that makes a mariachi-like noise when you clang the teeth together.
Despite our vows before the trip, we ate whoppers at Burger King for dinner. Sorry.
Hotel $9, Food $30, Transportation $6, Tours (Entrance fees) $5, Random (Internet) $2 Total $52
This morning we had a great typical breakfast at a comedor - eggs, beans, cheese, plantains, cofee - ummm good. Unfortunately, we also spent some of the morning trying to find a better hotel. Perhaps, we should be less picky when we are only paying $8 a night. We didn't know it at the tme but Hotel Dona Angelica was also availableby the hour. We witnessed many sweet romances.
The highlight of the day was our trek to Volcan Pacaya. Somehow we did something right and only paid $5 when everyone elsepaid $12. Anyway, our group of about 25 wasn accompanied by two guides and one Guatemalan soildier (carrying an automatic rifle). It didn't make us feel any safer, but we encountered no problems.
It was a beautiful 2-hour hike to the crater summit. The last thirty minutes of which was on volcanic ash. Two steps forward and one "step" back was the norm. The summit was covered in clouds. For a brief moment we were able to see lava (definitely a highlight). Note: We didn't find out until the top that there had been two large eruptions in January and February. Yikes.
The return literally tooks just minutes as we ran and slid down the volcano. Feeling almost weightless and with grey abound, it felt like we were on the moon. We had lots of moon rocks in our shoes anyway.
Hotel $8, Food $13, Tours $10 Total $31
Departing at 5am, Matt left for a long climb up Volcan de Agua. I met my guide Santa Maria, a small town at the base of the volcano. Isabell was dressed in suit pants, golf shirt and etinic tennis shirts. I did my best to look more like a serious climber. Anyway, we summited in just under 4 hours. It was very cloudy and cold at the top. We joined some of Isabelle's friend who had just started a fire. We enjoyed its warmth and the serenity of the mountian.
The clouds ultimately broke on the way down and afforded magnificent views of Antigua, Ciudad Vieja, farmlands (lots of corn), and other mountains. Isabelle picked apples and raspberries for us and we found wild roses too. Note: roses make a good gift when you have been out playing all day. In Santa Maria, I experienced a religious festival and watched the procession to the church. All of the women were dressed in handmade costumes of bright colors.
Meanwhile, Lady was enjoying city life in Antigua. First she moved us to our third and final hotel in Antigua. It was very nice and possibly worth the wait. Note: For the most part, price does not drive quality nor cleanliness in hotels here. Our guidebook has been pretty unreliable too. The rest fo the day - drinking coffee in a cafe, reading in the park, taking pictures, working on website, etc. She also scoped out the movie scene. We paid 10 quetzals each to watch a boot leg copy of Fight Club. Going to the movies in Antigua is not like back home. The screen is a 20" TV, the theatre is a small room, usually in the back of a restraunt, and there are lots of distractions including honking buses outside.
Expenses: Hotel $8, Food 13, Trans. 0, Tours $25, Random $2 movie, $2 internet Total $50
Today was dominated with soccer. Isabelle's soccer team was playing somewhere in Antigua so went to go see him. We never found him but did watch several good games. We snacked on boiled corn with butter, lime and salt. Served in the husk. Outstanding. Cost - about $.10. Later we joined friends from the hotel and watched the Eurocup final betweeb\n France and Italy.
Fresh guacamole and beer for dinner. We also went to see Men with Guns It was a film about a fictionalized civil war in Central America. The movie painfully pointed out that neither the army nor the guerillas are innocent and that the indigenous people always seem to suffer. Unfortunately, this fiction was reality in
Guatemala.
Hotel $8, Food $20, Trans and Tours 0, Random $3 laundry, $3 internet, $2 movie Total $36
We said goodbye to our nice hotel today - off to Lake Attilan and Panajachel. It took 3 unbelievable crowded buses and 3 hours to get there. For some reason, (probably because there was a direct bus for $3 more) we were the only Gringoes on the buses. Everyone was so helpful to us and always quick with a smile.
Lady kept wondering where the chirping was coming from until I pointed out a box of chicks under my seat (#4). We found a hotel on the 1st try! Yeah! The lake is incredible. It is mirror blue and surrounded by hills and volcanoes. We watched a lightning storm approach and ultimately it poured. Panajachel is a shopping dream (or nightmare depending on your perspective) wth stall after stall of native clothes and crafts. We ate a typical dinner and were entertained by a live musician. He played lots of sing alongs like La Bamba, Guatanamera, Aye Ye Ya Ya, etc. With our singing, the town will never be the same.
Hotel $6, Food $16, Transportation $3, Tours $0, Random $0 Total $25