Catch
the wave - You can catch a wave at any point - you just need to be going
fast enough. As the maximum speed you can reach is limited you need to find
where you can catch the waves. The criterion for being able to ride the wave
is its steepness. The steeper the wave - the more it will push you along and
the easier to catch. Look at where others are catching the waves that should
give you a good idea as to where you can catch the waves. So you've selected
your wave and are in generally the right position to catch it - turn around
and paddle. Sometimes you'll need to paddle hard, other times hardly at all.
Knowledge of this will come with experience.
You can use all three paddling methods but if you are only using your legs you
find it useful to push down on the nose of your board to increase the planning
speed.
Cut back - you accelerate towards the shoulder section, pick a
point where you think you have enough time to begin with a rounded slow turn.
Once turning, lean your board and shift your weight to the inside rail and begin
to cut a path with your edge. Both hands should be positioned near the nose
on either rail. Pulling with your arms helps to cut a smooth carving arc. The
more you pull, the greater the spray thrown. Use your hips to push down, too,
while your legs are extended behind, helping to prevent spinout. When you have
turned hard enough that the wave has now caught up, it's time to redistribute
your weight so it's centred Continue the ride by building trim speed.
