SCOTTISH MARK TOKENS 

A GUIDE










                         
Barry Vickers  F.R.S.A. F.S.A.(Scot.)
PM   Lodge Caledonian No. 392 SC. 













           

 (c) Barry Vickers & MTCC 1991,92,93

All  rights reserved.  No part of this book may be reproduced  or utilised in
any form or by any means,  electronic or mechanical, including photocopying,
recording  or by  any  information  and retrieval  system without express
permission from the  copyright holders.

Typeset by JRS Computer Services, Edinburgh

Like most, my interest in mark tokens stems from the time of my advancement
to Mark Master when my wages were paid. It was further heightened when
visiting another Lodge working the Mark Degree I noticed that the token
issued was different to mine, and asked why. I cannot remember the answer
given, but do remember the handful of tokens proudly displayed by my
informant. Since then I have been "hooked", and indeed this work originates
from my frustration at not be ng able to obtain information on mark tokens
issued by Scottish Lodges. This collation is tendered to the reader in the
hope that it may prove a starting point to a most rewarding and interesting
hobby.

There are those, such as myself, who have made a collection of tokens, and at
some time come across oddballs. In trying to find out something about these
tokens they have hit their heads against the wall in frustration. This guide
does not set out to be definitive, indeed it could not possibly be so, for
the typing of even this small paragraph has been twice interrupted with
telephoned information for inclusion. It is, rather, an attempt to sort some
of the grey areas and identify the dies used by the various Lodges. A codex
is supplied whereby a die might be described without the time honoured
tradition of a pencil rubbing or ambiguous description.

To the best of my knowledge there are no reference books on Scottish Masonic
tokens, and very few on fraternal tokens of any description. The language
used in this book is of my own making, but one which I hope will be easily
understood, and make sense to the collector.  All sizes are in millimetres,
and standard notation is used to describe the various metals. No attempt has
been made at thickness and weight due the vast variations in die blanks which
can occur between manufacturers. Where the original manufacturer can be
positively identified, this is given. More of this later.

The Scottish Constitution, having a richness unequalled in the diversity of
its rituals and regalia, is likewise without parallel in the diversity of its
tokens.

Although some Lodges still use the familiar standard, these are far
outnumbered by those which have the satisfaction of having their own unique
token, issued to Mark Master Masons on their advancement. These tokens are
usually made by specialists to a high standard and once a Lodge has issued
its own token it is reluctant to revert to a stock design. Over the years,
dies are broken, lost, or simply replaced in order to ring the changes. It
may be that the Lodge wishes to mark a milestone in its history, or perhaps
celebrate a Jubilee or similar special occasion which causes a new die to be
commissioned. I bring in this point now to explain to the new collector that
there will most likely be a "stepsister" to the token he holds in his hand.

References to the Mark in Scotland date back to the 16th century, and the
Schaw statues of the 28th December 1598 make reference to the "ressanyng
[receiving] of the said fallow of craft or maister be ord'lie buikit and his
name and mark inserted in the said buik".

It is outwith the scope of this reference to give account as to the origins
and history of the ceremonial, though the student might find the Year Book of
the Grand Lodge of Scotland (1971) and Handfield-Jones' excellent "Grand
Lodge Of Mark Master Masons 1856 - 1968" some help. What the wages were at
that time, we have no idea, but it can be safely assumed that some sort of
token was presented to the candidate. The idea of uniqueness developed from
stamping the Lodge number on a low denomination coin such as a farthing, and
from then on, like Topsy, it "grewed and grewed".

Some tokens were blatantly plagiarised. In the case of my Mother Lodge,
"Caledonian" No. 392, the design is too similar to the "Edinburgh Halfpenny"
issued by Thomas Hutchinson & Co., in the latter half of the 18th century, to
be coincidence!

By far the largest grouping of designs are heraldic, and although I have
deliberately tried to avoid heraldic terms, some of necessity must be used.

The abbreviation MCA will be found quite often, standing for the Masons
Company Arms, one of the Freeman Guilds of London. These arms are the
familiar three castles separated two above and one below by a chevron bearing
compasses, as shown in the left of the shield of the arms of the United Grand
Lodge of England, and the right of that of the Grand Lodge of Scotland, and
incorporated into the arms of many other Grand Bodies, national and
international.

Others used designs which illustrated local churches, historic buildings,
topography, or industry. Thus are water wheels, mountain ranges, and even pit
headgear shown on the tokens of the Scottish Constitution.

The numismatic terms obverse and reverse when applied to coin of the realm
signify the face where the value of the coin is shown, and the head of the
Sovereign, respectively. With tokens, it is sometimes difficult to decide
which is which. When the term obverse is applied, throughout this book it
will apply to the face of the token having the Lodge name and number, and
where these are on different faces, the one having the number.

The descriptions should be easily followed and though, as stated above,
heraldic terms are avoided as much as possible, some have to be used to
squeeze into five lines a reasonable outline of the piece. Abbreviations used
in the descriptive text, such as N&N (name and number), TL, TR, BL and BR
(top left, top right, bottom left and bottom right, should not give too much
trouble if read in context.

Where the term "outer" is used it should be taken to mean the dual concentric
circles generally used on the perimeter of the token and containing text
between them, usually the name and number of the Lodge. The inner of the
token is to be taken as the area enclosed by some sort of peripheral design.
This can become quite complicated in some cases, especially when the token is
of heptagonal design and the central area is enclosed by a circle.

I may also (rightly) be brought to task by my "bending" of the term exergue,
which is used in its loosest sense of being an area set aside for
inscription; the 270 degree blank arc of the Scottish standard being a prime
example.

Lettering has posed many problems due to the vast number of fonts used by the
various die sinkers. One man's Roman sans-serif is another man's Times Roman.
Die wear also plays its part in altering the style of lettering, and towards
the end of its useful life gives a totally different impression that only
close scrutiny can relate to the original. On occasion this may be seen as a
gradual deterioration, especially when a fault such as a crack line that
lengthens with successive stampings can be used as a bench mark as to the
degradation of the die. I have already touched upon the great variation of
obverse used by the Scottish Lodges, the majority of which, once a design has
been agreed upon, stay with that design, and when new dies are made, will
specify as close a copy as possible to the originals. Others ring the changes
and diversify. The most prolific change ringer of all time must be Lodge
"Canongate Kilwinning", No. 2, who, whilst only using two styles of obverse,
(in two diameters), have a possible 77 reverses, 56 of which have been
confirmed at the time of writing.

Having looked at the complexities of design it might be as well at this point
to go into the manufacturing process by which the work of the designer is
transformed from the two dimensional image into the three dimensional token.

The modern process consists of four phases, pattern making, cutting,
hardening, and stamping.

The pattern making is where the vague idea is transposed onto paper and
adjusted until both cutter and commissioner are satisfied with the design.
The design is drawn much larger than life and then reduced to its finished
size, either through mechanical means such as a pantograph, or as is more
likely nowadays, by a reducing photocopier. More than one design has been
consigned to the waste bin for the simple reason that what may seem clear in
the inflated size is an indistinguishable jumble in the finished size.

The next stage is to cut the design into the end of a circular steel rod,
which will eventually become the die. The process is highly demanding and
exacting, for although it is relatively easy to cut into steel, it is
impossible to replace metal once cut, so if a mistake is made, starting again
is the only option.

Cutting, or sinking, is still done by hand, but craftsmen are gradually being
replaced by engraving machines which work on a pantographic system, gradually
cutting into the metal to varying depths. A variation on this is "spark
erosion", where a high voltage arc gradually erodes the metal away to reveal
the design.

As a final check, a lead impression is taken from the die and this is closely
compared to the original design to ensure that it has been faithfully
reproduced, and if all is well the steel die will now be hardened.

The process is repeated for the reverse design.

Having the two sides of the die completed it now only remains to manufacture
a collar before the actual stamping can begin.

The collar is the circular ring that holds the blank to ensure that the
design is stamped centrally. Strictly speaking, the collar and dies should be
made as a set, the dies being shouldered to allow ingress only just
sufficient to give the required depth of stamping, but not allowing the two
dies to touch should the blank be left out, thus preventing "die clash".

In moments of temporary insanity, both collar and blank are left out, and at
best the dies touch and leave only a light impression, each upon the other:
at worst the dies will crack or break. After die clash, however slight, the
only real cure is new dies.

Assuming that all is well the token is now ready for finishing according to
the instructions of the Lodge, after which the tokens are packed and
despatched.

Another subject, which may well form the basis of an addendum, is the growing
interest shown by Scottish Chapters in producing their own unique tokens. I
intend here to cover the Scottish Craft Lodges which meet within mainland
Scotland or the Isles, for to do otherwise would result in a tome that would
reduce the Stanley Gibbons stamp catalogue to a pocket diary by comparison,
and cloud many issues of definition.

To the reader who has but a small collection I would say that all collections
started out with one. A large collection can be quickly obtained at a rate
commensurate with the aficionado's cheque book, but there can be no equal to
the pleasure of opening the morning post and finding a "capture" that a
cheque cannot buy.

To those who misguidedly think my collection is huge, might I here
disillusion them. Much is owed to the Mark Token Collectors Club and its
membership, for they have unhesitatingly offered their all, and many of the
illustrations provided have come from that source.

Acknowledgement is given to all who assisted me by giving freely of their
time and knowledge, and trusting me with the cream of their collections.
Special thanks are due to John Aitken, Bert Allife, Archie Bone, Willie
McKinlay, Ralph Wheeler, not forgetting John Murray for his assistance in
getting the colour plates photocopied, and to Robin Slack, who burned his
candle very late into the night, for the typesetting. Where a token has been
"borrowed" for illustrative purposes then the owners MTCC number is given in
the provenance column of the listings, and shown in appendix C.

It would also be most remiss of me not to mention the Grand Lodge of
Scotland, (GLS in the provenance listings) who opened their doors, (and their
collection) to me, and to Grand Secretary for permission to borrow tokens
from the Grand Lodge collection and to reproduce the lists of Lodges in the
appendices. All tokens listed in this book have been seen and therefore
actually exist with the exceptions of the very few specifically mentioned in
the descriptive text. The pieces which have "Detailed description still
required" in the text are tokens for which the data was lost in the bowels of
a computer. I hope to re-describe these tokens at a later date.

Please do not consider this to be the definitive list, for each day brings
more and more information. What started as a simple exercise has developed
into an obsession, for to (partially) quote Chamfort in "Maxims et pensees"
(1805)...

        "The majority of those who put together collections
         resemble those who eat cherries or oysters:
         they begin by choosing the best and end by eating everything."

I look forward to a further edition, the groundwork is done, and it now only
remains for me to ask for the assistance of the reader, to let me know of
pieces not included.

Barry Vickers
Edinburgh 1993

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The dyed in the wool, dedicated collector may skip over these next few pages,
but they should be thoroughly digested by the beginner, for all beginners
must pass through the sheep dip, but until doing so will be caught out in the
same manner as most have been, by passing on a token which in later years
they would give their eye teeth to own, (and which older and wiser sheep will
happily graze upon.)

Certain tokens are not easily obtained. It may be that you are in the happy
position of being in the right place at the right time, and fortune comes
your way in the form of tokens that you think you own already. I use the word
"think", advisably, and from experience. If in any doubt, take your windfall
home and examine it most carefully, for there are traps for the unwary.

A token consists of two sides, obverse and reverse. It has diameter,
thickness, and therefore an edge, which may be milled or plain. Various
metals and alloys can be used including copper, brass, aluminium, and on rare
occasions, a plastic or bakelite based medium. There are also the odd paper
tokens, and in other Constitutions wood and leather have been used as strike
materials.

By far the most common medium is copper, yet even this most humble of
materials can be most deceptive, for we now come to the world of finish.

Just as Granny had her brass/copper kitchen range chromium plated to arrest
tarnish, so have some Lodges had the same approach to their tokens, and have
had them chromium plated, or in extreme, silver or gold plated! Unless
special request is made by the Lodge, tokens are normally made from a copper
base with a sprayed or dipped bronze finish.

Easy, isn't it ? Yet when you think that all of the above are variables, it
serves to illustrate how complex a token can become, and the token which you
happily exchange today, can become a nightmare to recover tomorrow.

On first examining a token the dyed in the wool collector would have taken
the cursory look, and the non cursory look, (in fact his hands would have
never let go a potential), and would have his glass out in less than the time
it takes to type this line. More of glasses later.

As has been already said, a Lodge, in the course of its history, may have
commissioned more than one design of obverse, or indeed more than one reverse
to celebrate, say, a bicentenary. Usually a Lodge will return to to the same
supplier time after time. They may have no option, for sometimes it is not
the Lodge who holds the copyright to the token, but the manufacturer! In such
circumstances the die is held and strikes can only be obtained at source.
These tend to be unique dies, i.e. where the obverse and reverse are "one
off", though the same applies to any Lodge which does not specifically state
that they wish die retention as part of the agreement. Unique dies will
faithfully reproduce the same token for many years, gradual depreciation
being the only change. The same cannot be said for the token which has a
stock reverse, as the reverse die is subjected to much more usage, i.e., 10
different obverse stampings of 100 tokens requires 1000 stampings from the
poor old reverse. For the above reasons, do not simply look at the obverse of
your newly acquired token, but check the reverse also.

Until you gain in experience and your bionic eye is installed, I would
suggest the following as a guide to avoiding teeth marks in your hand. First
of all catalogue your current collection with the assistance of the plates,
and keep a note of these in a small note book in the form L. XXXX S3T01 S2T05
S2T03, where XXXX is the Lodge number and the reverses that you have from
this particular Lodge follow.

Cataloguing is not so difficult or daunting as it would seem, for although I
have stressed the vast amount of possible combinations, in practice they
break down into a surprisingly small amount of groupings.

All tokens have a reverse, and the large majority of these are stock
reverses; the same ones recurring with different obverse designs. If tokens
can be compared to coin of the realm, then each year of issue could be said
to represent a different Lodge obverse, the stock die being the Queen's head.
It therefore becomes unnecessary to continually display a picture of the
Queen's head with each year of issue, as the head remains constant; only the
year of issue changes. Thus a series may be represented as (say ) 1952-1967
head1, and 1968-1979 head2.

Applied to a token, Lodge Barns o' Clyde No. 1018 has used stock reverse
S3T01, a reverse also used by St. Patrick No. 1309. It becomes easier to say
1018 (S3T01) and 1309 (S3T01) than to try to describe it as, "A sort of
raised design, with a triangle in the middle and THEY RECEIVED EVERY MAN A
PENNY around the outside, just bigger than a 2p. piece."

Such a description would have me up to ninety in no time! What...."Barns o'
Clyde" with a 27.0mm ? This is a totally unknown token and a complete break
from the 28.5mm's lying snugly in their non acidic, hermetic, little
envelopes! The owner of this prize is told, (after haggling), to send it by
Securicor. Needless to say the token which arrives is not the token expected!

Reverses fall into 10 main types and it is from this that my idea of a
general classification system sprang.

Classification 0

Classification zero covers all tokens which do not fit the norm. Anything non
circular carries a zero (0) classification. Non circular die reverses tend to
be unique with the exception of some heptagonals and ovals. It was inevitable
that the heptagonal design would manifest itself with the advent of decimal
currency and the 50p. coin. "THEY RECEIVED EVERY MAN A HALF A QUID", has (at
writing ) not yet appeared, but in these days of inflation, who knows ? The
oval token lends itself to designs which would look out of place, and out of
proportion, on a circular piece. The classic obverse of "St. Clair" No. 362
(S0X21) is a perfect example of this, as is the more recent "Biggar Free
Operative" No. 167, which uses a scenic obverse to maximum effect by taking
the most unusual step of using the oval shape in landscape.

Probably the best loved token of the non circulars is the "Heart of
Midlothian" No. 832.

Before leaving the world of non circulars, might I here make the point that
although some Lodges are most accommodating to requests for examples, some,
quite rightly, do not take kindly to being bombarded for tokens. The series
S0F61, S0P62, and S0S63, is one which must be unique. These tokens
occasionally make their way to the collector, indeed my set arrived as a
Christmas present from a friend, but I would emphasise that they are issue d
ONLY to the candidates of this Lodge, through the various degrees. Could I
also point out that strictly speaking only the triangular (S0S63) is a token.
(It would also be prudent at this point to mention that I know of at least
one other triangular design, which, although looking similar to the "St.
Columba" piece, is in fact, a standard.)

The sequential numbers 1 to 20 are reserved for heptagonal designs, 21 to 60
are non regular shapes, 61 to 80 are reserved for series, such as the Lodge
1295 already mentioned, and the remainder are used for paper designs.

Classification 1

This classification deals with all tokens which have an incuse triangle, and
either a small incuse dot, or small incuse circle central to the triangle.
Some of these variations are extremely difficult to distinguish one from the
other.

Classification 2

The tokens which are also incuse triangle, but without the central incuse dot
or circle referred to above fall into classification two. Again some of these
are very similar.

Classification 3

Classification three tokens fall neatly into a "family", for all artwork is
in relief. The reverses S3T02 and S3T04 will probably present the biggest
difficulty: the S3T04 has "rounded" points on the star used as a bottom stop.

Classification 4

The tokens which make up classification four have a plain circular area in
the centre of the token. (i.e. no central triangle). Most of these come from
the Glasgow area.

Classification 5

I have called classification five "stars and cords", for all this group have
some form of central lower stop, whether it be star, cross or character. On
most, the circle which surrounds the keystone is constructed so as to give a
corded appearance. There are of course variations, but the classification
cannot be mistaken, and the greater part of these are Kirkwood designs.

Classification 6

Tokens which have a central triangle as a theme, I have grouped together as
classification six. It is into this grouping that the "Canongate Kilwinning"
tokens should rightly fall, but the series is so large that I decided that a
separate grouping would be more appropriate. Two examples of this "CK"
classification are shown on the last colour plate.

Classification 7

Classification seven deals with reverses that show the mallet & chisel or the
square & compasses. This is split into three sections. 0 to 40 are mallet and
chisel reverses that show a thistle, (like the standard token obverse), 41 to
60 are mallet and chisel only and 61 + is for square and compass reverses.

Classification 8

Other styles of reverse which classify easily are the celebration and
pictorial styles. These are all unique dies, and some are now exceedingly
rare due to the stamping being "one off", and the die broken afterwards to
ensure a limited edition. This section is likewise partitioned, 1 to 50 being
celebratory, and 51 + being pictorials.

Classification 9

During the sorting process I kept coming across tokens that didn't quite seem
to fit in anywhere, so I scientifically lumped the whole shebang together and
called them "odd keystones", with a classification number of nine. Again this
is partitioned, numbers higher than fifty being reserved for sunken
triangular centres.

From the chaos we started with we now have some sort of order, and it should
be possible to decide into which general classification a reverse fits,
without too much difficulty.

The next thing to decide is where, in its classification, the token fits, and
for this a gauge with a vernier scale is necessary. These may be obtained
from any good tool shop, and a plastic gauge is preferable to a metal one
which may well scratch the token. A metric rule is not sufficiently accurate
for the measurement of diameters, but is useful for the measurement of paper
tokens.

Letters are used as a size indicator, beginning with A for diameters less
than or equal to 19.0mm, and progressing through the alphabet in 0.5 mm
stages to Z, used for diameters of 31.5 mm and over. (Paper tokens are sized
in the descriptive text of the listings.) Measurement of circular coins
presents no problem. Shapes other than circular should be measured over the
longest axis, and all measurements should be to the nearest 0.5 mm.

Knowing the classification number and the diameter indicator letter,
reference should now be made to the appropriate plate(s) and comparison made
with the illustrations which bear the same size indicator as the one you are
trying to classify. Once the designs have been established as identical, then
the reference given below the illustration can be assigned to the particular
token, and the reverse positively identified.

Some of the reverses are very similar and will require very close comparison.
Most dies have some small flaw somewhere and an investment in a modest glass
will show this. (The glass should be of the magnifying kind, and not the one
which holds liquor. The latter type distorts everything.) Use good lighting
at an angle which gives minimum reflection, and double check for accuracy.

There are glasses available which have their own in built light source, and
whilst these have much to commend them, unfortunately most of the lenses are
made of easily scratched plastic.

If your collection is housed in those convenient little cardboard coin
mounts, then make a note of the reverse number on the reverse side of the
mount. In that way you will quickly become accustomed to the system, and an
easier comparison might be had for future reference. I would also suggest a
reference list of tokens to save you hunting through your collection every
time a closer comparison is needed. I have included in appendix C, the Lodge
names and numbers of the reverses shown in the plates.

Some Lodges are willing to sell tokens, and a visit, followed by a quiet word
with the Secretary or Treasurer in the intermission between Degree and
Festive Board, will usually obtain a result. It should go without saying that
these officers are sometimes sorely pressed, and care should be taken not to
add to their burden, should they be busy.

The obvious, and most rewarding time to visit a Lodge is when the Mark Degree
is being worked, for here the tokens are to hand, and the chances of
capturing a prize vastly increases.

The dyed in the wool collector comes into his own on these occasions, and our
hero will be observing all who approach the Treasurer or Secretary's table.
The bionic eye will be turned to maximum resolution, and the electronic ear
will be scanning several conversations at once, for here are TGUOTU, which
roughly translates to The Great Uninformed Of The Universe, (which by now you
should not be), and whom, might have perchance, the No. 2 flowerhead that
dreams are made of, nestling comfortably in his pocket.

Try asking if the Brother is a collector. It may be that he is a visitor from
afar, and it may be possible to open up a relationship beneficial to both
parties, whereby exchanges might be made of tokens from places otherwise
pretty inaccessible without taking a week's holiday and several ferries.

Antiques Fairs tend to be a bit of a disappointment, but having said that,
some exciting finds can be had in the most unlikely places, though it can be
hard going rooting through the tins of pfennig & drachma. From experience it
is an outing best taken alone. Many an argument has started when a wife,
itching to get away to Marks and Spencer, "helps" by finding CO-OP checks,
plastic milk tokens, and obscure 2 wobbit pieces from Atlantis.

Car Boot Sales are only mentioned because they exist!

Dealers also seem to have an exaggerated, indeed sometimes comical sense of
value. One story that springs to mind, is where a collector happened across
Toye standards priced at 8.00 in Glasgow. On querying the exorbitant price
he was told that they were extremely rare, and the dealer foolishly offered
to buy in at 4.00. Our hero offered to return with 200 identical "extremely
rare" tokens within ten minutes, in exchange for a certified 800.00 cheque.
Needless to say the bargain was never completed.
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REVERSE SIZING AND CATALOGUING SYSTEM
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                   |         Illustration of          |
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Constitution Codes :-

S = Scottish Craft  E = English Mark A = American Chapter

Size Codes :-

A       <=      19.0
B  	=  	19.5
C       =       20.0
D  	=  	20.5
E  	=  	21.0
F  	=  	21.5
G       =       22.0
H 	=  	22.5
I       =       23.0
J  	=  	23.5
K  	=  	24.0
L       =       24.5
M  	=  	25.0
N 	=  	25.5
O  	=  	26.0
P  	=  	26.5
Q  	=  	27.0
R  	=  	27.5
S  	=  	28.0
T  	=  	28.5
U  	=  	29.0
V  	=  	29.5
W  	=  	30.0
X  	=  	30.5
Y  	=  	31.0
Z       =>      31.5

(Sizing is to the nearest 0.5mm) 

Style Codes :-
  	1. Incuse dot centre   		6. Triangles
        2. Incuse no dot                7. M&C & This.,M&C,S&C
  	3. Relief      			8. Celebration & Pictorial
        4. No triangle                  9. Odd Keystones
        5. Stars & Cords                0. Non Circular & Paper

Notes to the above :-

	S1 01-99 	= Central incuse dot or small circle.
	S2 01-99 	= Similar to S1 but without dot.
	S3 01-99 	= All artwork is in relief.
	S4 01-99 	= No central triangle.
	S5 01-99 	= Star at bottom centre and/or corded circles.
	S6 01-99 	= Main design is a triangle. (Mostly relief.)
	S7 01-40 	= Mallet & Chisel with Thistle(s) reverse.
           41-60        = Mallet & Chisel reverse.
           61-          = Square & Compass reverse.
	S8 01-50 	= Celebration reverse. (Jubilee etc.)
           51-          = Pictorial reverse.
	S9 01-50 	= Cubic & irregular keystones/unlettered reverse.
           51-          = Sunken keystone reverse.
	S0 01-20 	= Heptagonal designs.
           21-60        = Non regular shapes.
           61-80        = Series.
           81-          = Paper tokens.

Manufacturers Codes :-

B  = Boardman
E  = Emslie
K  = Kirwood
L  = Light & Boston
M  = MBF
N  = Tradition
R  = Lancaster
T  = Toye, Kenning & Spenser
V  = Victoria Regalia

Kirkwood & Sons           13 Albany Street        031-556 7843
*                         Edinburgh EH1 3PY

Lancaster                 The Old Manse           0292-70642
*                         Monkton
                          Ayrshire KA9 2RN

Light & Boston            Unit 12                 021-356 8787
*                         Lee Trading Estate      021-344 3005 (fax)
                          54 College Road
                          Ferry Bar
                          Birmingham B44 8BS

Marco Agencies            Unit 6                  041-427 0971
                          29 Brand Street
                          Glasgow G51

MBF                       144 Neilston Road       041-884 6441
                          Paisley
                          Renfrewshire

Toye, Kenning & Spencer   Newtownward Road        0203-315634
                          Bedworth
                          Warwickshire  CV12 8QK

Tradition                 2 West Sanquhar Place   0292-282450
*                         Ayr  KA8 9JH

Victoria Regalia          9 Victoria Terrace      031-225 3355
*                         Edinburgh EH1 2JL       031-220 2546 (fax)


(An asterisk below the manufacturers name indicates that the die becomes the
property of the Lodge. All others practice die retention.)
Although I have aimed at consistency, some may disagree on certain
classifications, for example the circular S0P63, which by rights should bear
a 3 grouping. I have changed this to show the three tokens which form this
unique series on the same page. As stated above, technically, only the S0S63
should be illustrated, the other two not being issued in the Mark Degree, but
I feel that it would be wrong not to include them.

On the last page of illustrations are two tokens which illustrate the CK
classification which is used to describe the "Canongate Kilwinning" series of
tokens.

The first token known to have been issued by this Lodge was the 21.0mm
flowerhead of 1900. Whether or not a token was issued every year, not even
the Lodge is certain, but it would appear that this might be the case, for
although most years are now catalogued, the odd new face turns up
occasionally. I am assuming that all years were covered, and have left spaces
accordingly. This, the largest series of tokens issued by any Lodge, is
identified ch ronologically, running from CKE00 to CKM76. Note that in 1900
and again in 1910, two distinct tokens were issued, also the strange overlaps
of 1914-16. All tokens listed have been verified, and any further information
on blank years would be much appreciated. I do not intend to dwell further on
this series as a work is in hand on the subject.

The English and American reverses attributed to Scottish Lodges are not
mistakes, and have indeed been issued by these Lodges. After all, the English
Constitution's "Paris Mark Lodge", working in (where else) Paris, uses an
oval Scottish reverse to accommodate the view of the Eiffel Tower used as an
obverse.

No attempt has been made to classify overstamped coin of the realm. The
overstamping is quoted verbatim, and the year of the coin along with its
denomination is given in the notes. The curious can find illustrations of
these various obverses and reverses in any large public library. Most
overstamping is done by alphanumeric punches, though a few are engraved.

By this time you should be thoroughly aware of the pitfalls awaiting the
unwary as regards collecting your tokens. It might also be a good idea at
this point to take a look at how you intend to house your collection, for a
little thought and preparation whilst numbers are of manageable proportions
will avoid the headaches which will invariably crop up once the collection
has grown to several hundreds.

Most collectors progress from the plastic bag of tokens either lying in the
bottom of their regalia case, or the kitchen drawer, at an early stage. They
either become too heavy to lug around, or coagulate with the tube of Bostik
that the scissors have accidentally sliced through, if consigned to the
latter storage place.

An excellent short article by Ralph Wheeler in the newsletter of the Mark
Token Collectors Club deals with matters of storage most efficiently, and is
reprinted in full by kind permission of the author.

"It is worth giving thought to methods of storing and cataloguing a
collection of tokens before it gets too large. Beyond a hundred or so
specimens it gets increasingly difficult to organise and enjoy your tokens if
you do not have a workable system.

Three main methods are used for actually housing the pennies viz., albums,
trays, and individual wallets in filing boxes. I personally like a system
where both sides of the token can easily be seen, and clear plastic wallets
and album pages allow this. The wallets permit the collection to be
rearranged easily as new items are added to the file box. However, an album
allows groups of tokens to be viewed together, and comparisons made. Make
sure that the pockets in the album have flaps to stop the tok ens fall ing
out if the page is inverted. Some systems have an extra pocket for a small
label card to be inserted with each token. When the pages of an album are
full of tokens they become quite heavy and quickly distort if stood upright.
Horizontal storage of albums is more practical.

Some collectors favour trays for their tokens, and some of these can be quite
splendid, with red plush linings and fine cabinets. Both sides of the token
are not immediately on view, but rearrangement is easy.

Whatever the storage system, make sure that it is made of a material which
will not harm the tokens. Some plastics are unsuitable, and oak, for
instance, will corrode bronze.

If you wish to avoid having to rearrange your collection every time a new
item is added, you should consider giving each piece an acquisition number as
it arrives. You then store the tokens in the order you acquire them but keep
your printed list in Lodge number order. When you wish to find a piece, you
look up the Lodge number, and besides it will be the acquisition number
telling you where to find it in your albums. This system lends itself to a
comp uter but a card index will also do the trick."

Before adding my own comments to the above, might I bring to your attention
two unassailable and universal laws.

                          (1) All dogs love plastic.
                          (2) All children love "pennies".

Your collection should neither be stored near the dog basket, or less than
ten feet above the reach of your little cherub's fingers, unless you wish to
arrive home one day and find the mutt happily sicking up the remains of your
prized albums, or your wife's daughter either using your tokens as pennies
for playing shops, or throwing them merrily out of the window.

Copper and bronze do not take kindly to either passing through the intestines
of animals, being covered in jam, lying around in the garden for two or three
days, or any combination thereof. You have been warned!

Like Ralph, I also favour the album system, and after a few shaky starts,
gravitated towards "Coindex". Before I am accused of putting in a commercial,
let me state that the system was the most easily obtainable for me, and had
something else been nearer to hand, would probably have opted for that. The
local coin shop sold nothing but what they termed "coin album pages" which
were of unsuitable heavy plastic, needed sealing with tape to stop the tokens
falling out, and had poor ring binder holes which split easily. I had
decided against the "Lindner" stacking box system as being a little unwieldy
and non-transportable, and was left with the choice of envelope index, or
album.

The two main contenders in the album market are "Kwikseal" and "Coindex".
Both are excellent. "Kwikseal" album pages show twenty tokens to a page, and
the tokens are protected from oxidisation by special card mounts which seal
in the token with a thin layer of plastic. The mounts are then inserted in
the page pocket. The pages are well constructed, and have four ring holes for
stability in the sturdy binder. The card mounts are easily removed and
inserted, and may be written upon to show information on their contents. To
their disadvantage, there is nothing to stop the tokens from falling out if
the album is inverted.

The "Coindex" album is also of rigid construction, and like the "Kwikseal"
comes in a variety of colours. The pages have three reinforced binder holes,
and show 16 tokens to the page. The pockets differ from the above in that
they are divided into two sections, the upper section is to hold a small
index card describing the token in the lower. The token is held in position
by an open cardboard mount that slips into the pocket. The tokens and mounts
are protected by a flap to stop them falling out should the album be
accidentally inverted. The main disadvantages of this system is that both
index card and token have to be moved on rearrangement, and the smaller
amount of tokens per page requires more pages than the "Kwikseal" method.

If it your intention to show your tokens sequentially, you should think about
leaving spaces in your album to avoid having to shift everything one place to
the right after each acquisition. A tried and tested method involves leaving
the first and last pockets of the page empty. This way tokens can be shuffled
both right and left.

The system of applying acquisition numbers to tokens has much to commend it.
There are no empty spaces in the album, and the dreaded shuffling of tokens
is avoided. The obvious drawback of this method is that of comparison, for
the tokens you wish to view will be scattered through your albums. It is, as
stated by Ralph, best computerised.

Almost as important as the storage of your collection is the storage of your
"spares". I use several "Coindex" pages that have been sliced in half then
punched through with a two hole punch at the ring binder end and fastened
together with a metal binder to form a cut down album. The tokens can be
slipped into the pockets (eight to a page) and the whole thing fits neatly
into my apron case. I also keep a note of my spares tucked inside my "spares
album" and find that these two things pay untold dividends in time and
frustration. A piece of advice I always give is to check your spares
thoroughly. Again, this is through experience. It is surprising what can
sneak in un-noticed. I shall not mention names, but one avid collector
discovered ten tokens he did not have in his collection, sitting in his
spares, waiting to go to new homes!

Finally, a word on exchanges. It is impossible to be everywhere at once, and
collectors rely on each other to fill in the gaps from afar. What may be
easily obtainable in one part of the country is not easily obtainable in
another. If you are fortunate enough to obtain a contact who is also a
collector, then your day is made. Treat him with the respect with which you
yourself would expect to be treated. If he writes offering tokens and yo u
have nothing to offer at the moment, write back and tell him so. Not hing is
more frustrating than sitting around, hanging on to spares offered,
especially when they could be used. If an exchange is agreed, send away the
tokens in the first available post, for your correspondent will be as keen to
receive his new acquisitions as you will be to get yours.

There are established networks, and information on joining these might be had
from the Mark Token Collectors Club by writing to the Secretary,

		Ralph Wheeler	
		59 Whitehouse Avenue, 	
		Borehamwood, 	
		Hertfordshire, 
		WD6 1HA, 

or from myself :-

                Barry Vickers
		59 Harrison Road, 
		Edinburgh, 
		EH11 1EQ.
