Note for gear: Temperatures at Plaza de Mulas can get warm enough to sit around in a bathing suit. Temperatures at the top could range from +50°F to -20°F. We should prepare for 0°F nights at the high camps.
Clothing:
Feet:
- Liner Socks (3 pair)
- Hiking socks (2 pair) (approach)
- Heavy mountain socks (3 pair)
- Vapor Barrier Liner (VBL) socks
$$ - plastic bags
- Fleece socks (for sleeping)
- Light hiking boots or shoes (approach)
- Plastic, double, mountaineering boots
- Gaiters
- River crossing footwear (approach)
Legs
- Full Zip (f/z) shell pants or bibs
- Light nylon shorts (approach and part of climb)
- Non-cotton underwear (2+pairs)
- Long underwear (light or midweight)
- Light fleece, powerstretch fleece, or expedition weight long underwear
or
- midweight Fleece pants? (prefer full zip [f/z])
Top
- Long underwear (light or midweight)
- Powerstretch fleece, lightweight fleece, or expedition weight long underwear
- Heavy fleece jacket
- Fleece vest
- Shell Jacket (preferrably w/ ventilation options)
- Down Jacket (oversized to fit over everything else)
- T-shirt (approach)
- Sports Bra (for some of us) :)
Hands
- Liner gloves (check out the REI MTS midweight liner gloves!)
- Loose fleece gloves or mitts
- Overmitts (preferrably insulated w/ cord attachments to your wrist - can be sewn on)
Head
- Liner balaclava
- Neck Gaitor
- Fleece Balaclava
- Face mask (included w/ balaclava or separate)
$$ - I modified one of those cheap, white filter masks by adding a few holes to good effect.
- Brim cap adjustable to fit over balaclavas or bare skull
- Glacier glasses w/ noseguard! - we can make our own noseguard if need be)
- Insulated hood (preferrably down)
- Headband
- Something to tie your hair back (if you still have long hair). :)
Shared Gear:
- Tent w/ extra guy line cords
(Lightweight: Walrus Terramoto, Walrus Rapeede XV, Black Diamond Megamid, Mountain Hardwear Kiva, Sierra Designs Omega, Stephenson's Warmlite tents)
(Meeting room size yet still fairly light: Black Diamond Megamid, Mountain Hardwear Kiva, Mountain Hardwear Mountain Yurt)
- snow stakes (nylon cloth?)
- Ground cloth (many nights on talus/scree)
- Stove
- Snow base for stove
- Fuel
- Cookpot
- Snow melting pot
- Repair kit
- First aid kit
- Water Filter w/ coffee filter prefilters
- Iodine or preferably Chlorine Dioxide
- GPS
- Altimeters (2?)
- Two-way radios w/ PTT mics (How many - if any?)
Personal Gear
- Pack
- Fanny pack
- Pack cover?
- Sleeping bag
- VBL
- Sleeping pads
- 1 Liter Water Bottles (2)
- 2.5 Liter Platypus w/ funnel and filter attachment
w/ drinking hose (optional)
- Spoon
- Eating bowl (ziploc 'disposable' works nice)
- Headlamp
- Microlight (small LED light for camp)
- Toothbrush/Tooth powder
- Toilet Paper
- Pee Bottle (leakproof!!)
optional - depends on how much you like running around at night in a cold storm
- Pee Funnel (for women)
- Dermatone face protector SPF 23 (normal - doubles the time before your skin freezes)
or
- Dermatone face protector SPF 15 (non-allergenic zinc-oxide)
doubles the time before your skin freezes
- Sunscreen (SPF 30+)
we need to test it to make sure it will not freeze
- Lip Balm (preferably not water based)
- Anti-Fog stuff for glasses
- Bandana or very small Pak-Towl
- Whistle
- Mylar Emergency Bag
- Lighter
- Matches
- Firestarter (do we really need these up there?)
- Knife
- Aluminum foil
- Journal and Pen
- Camera/Tripod/Film
- Foot Powder
- Bug Stuff (Maybe for the approach??)
- Compass
- Passport
- Cash
- Earplugs (to sleep at night in the wind)
- Duffel bag with anti-tamper locks (for the mules)
Climbing Gear:
- Crampons (Stubai Ultralight or Kong Grand Course)
- Crampon point covers
- Ice axe w/ leash (Grivel Air Tech Racing or, if money allows, Ushba Altair Titanium)
- Ice axe covers (pick/adze and spike)
- Trekking poles
- Shovel (one full size and one lightweight per tent)
- Snow wands
Additional Climbing Gear if we attempt the Polish Glacier Route:
- Harness
- Back-up axe (Grivel Nepal Light or Cassin Ghost)
- Rope (7.6mm Sterling Ice Thong or PMI's 8.1mm Verglas)
- Belay device (or use Munter Hitch)
- Self Rescue setup
- Team Rescue setup
Food