Historique des villes que nous visiterons
(réf:
http://www.chez.com/belgaria/VILLES et
http://www.bulgaria-property.com/bulgaria)
Note: Désolée pour l'anglais, je n'ai pas encore eu le
temps de traduire...
Dobritch - Les premières
traces de vie dans cette ville remontent à l'Antiquité.
Des vestiges d'une habitation romaine (3e-4e siècle) ont
été découvertes dans le nord du centre et dans la
partie est. Une ancienne habitation (settlement) bulgare y
existait au 8e siècle. La ville actuelle a été
fondée au XVème siècle, pendant le joug ottoman.
Dobritch s'appelle alors Bazardjik et est un marché agricole
important. Selon le voyageur turc Evlia Chelebi, qui y est allé
en 1651, il y avait alors 2000 maisons et 7 quartiers avec 3
hôtels, 200 ateliers et un marché avec 100 ateliers. A la
fin du 18e et au début du 19e siècle, beaucoup de
Bulgares des régions d'Odrin, Kotel et Turgovishte vinrent s'y
installer. Pendant cette même période, c'était le
centre du champ de bataille entre Turcs et Russes. La première
église bulgare, St-Georgi, a été construite en
1843 et l'année suivante, une école monacale y a
été ouverte. L'hôpital a été ouvert
en 1866 et 3 ans plus tard commençait son urbanisation. En
1872, la première école ouvrait ses portes. Pendant la
guerre russo-turque de la Libération, la ville a fourni un grand
nombre de traducteurs, de guides et de ravitailleurs aux Russes.
L'armée du général Zimmerman libéra la
ville le 27 janvier 1878. En 1882, sur l'insistance des habitants, la
ville a été appelée Dobritch en l'honneur de
Dobrotitsa, despote (XIVe siècle) de la Dobroudja. L'ouverture
de la ligne ferroviaire Razdelna - Dobrich - Kardam, en 1911, et son
prolongement jusqu'à la ville roumaine Medgidia, en 1916,
a donné un élan à son développement. Elle a
cependant continué à subir les vicissitudes du destin. La
première occupation roumaine dura jusqu'en 1916, et après
l'Accord de Neuilly en 1919, elle a continué à être
incluse dans le territoire de la Roumanie jusqu'en 1940, lorsque
l'Accord de Krayova a été signé, remettant la
région de Dobroudzha Sud à la Bulgarie. Le 25
septembre 1940, l'armée bulgare est entrée à
Dobritch, date devenue la fête officielle de la ville. De 1949
à 1991, elle porte le nom de Tolbouhin (ou Tolboukhine), du nom
du maréchal soviétique "libérateur" de la Bulgarie
en 1944, et voit arriver de nombreux Russes qui font partie des 30,000
colons envoyés par le "Petit Père des peuples" de part et
d'autre de la frontière bulgaro-roumaine. Ce faisant, Staline a
d'ailleurs une petite idée derrière la tête: il
envisage de faire construire un canal entre le Danube et la mer Noire,
afin que la flotte soviétique puisse atteindre le fleuve sans
que les vaisseaux les plus larges ne soient bloqués dans son
delta. Le projet est abandonné à son décès
(1953). En 1990, la ville reprend le nom de Dobritch. Majoritairement
peuplée de Turcs jusqu'à la Seconde Guerre mondiale,
Dobritch subit - au cours de celle-ci - le nettoyage ethnique de 40,000
Turcs de la région, qui sont renvoyés dans leur pays
d'origine. En 1946, les Russes en expulsent d'autres avec des Grecs et
des Roumains. Dobritch est à présent le centre de ce
qu'on appelle le grenier bulgare pour la production agricole. Elle est
associée de près à l'écrivain Yordan
Yovkov; l'actrice Adriana Boudevska y est née.
Kaliakra - Si les
premiers occupants de Kaliakra sont - en dehors des hommes
préhistoriques - des Phéniciens, la ville passe ensuite
dans les mains thraces, grecques, puis macédoniennes. Elle se
nomme alors Tyrisis et est, selon le géographe grec Strabon,
déjà fortifiée dès le IVe siècle
avant notre ère. Complètement reconstruite sous Flavius
Hermogenes, célèbre chef de la cavalerie, devenu
gouverneur, de l'empereur Constant Ier (Flavius Julius Constans,
337-350), elle sert, au début du VIe siècle et sous le
nom de Akre, de quartier général au capitaine Vitalien,
qui dirige, en 514, un soulèvement populaire contre l'empereur
byzantin Athanase, puis, en 518, contre son successeur Justinien, avant
d'être assassiné en 520. Dans sa lutte pour
l'indépendance de la Bulgarie, le khan Asparoukh (fin du VIIe
siècle) se rend maître, à son tour, de
Kaliakra (qui ne prendra ce nom qu'au Moyen-Age). C'est sous le
despotat de la Dobroudja que Kaliakra atteint son apogée.
Pressenti par Anne de Savoie pour lutter contre l'usurpateur Jean VI
Cantacuzène, un boyard local du nom de Archon Balik lève,
avec ses frères Théodor et Dobrotitsa, une armée
composée de Bulgares et de Grecs. Une campagne militaire
triomphale permet aux villes bulgares des bords de la mer Noire, alors
sous la coupe de Jean VI, de changer de camp. Accueilli par Anne
de Savoie, l'un des trois frères, Dobrotitsa, épouse une
princesse byzantine et reçoit le titre de despote. Nommé
à la tête de l'armée, il repart au combat... mais
subit une énorme défaite. Il parvient malgré tout
à préserver le despotat de la Dobroudja, faisant de
Kaliakra sa capitale, mais doit reconnaître la suzeraineté
du tsar bulgare Ivan-Alexandre. En 1366, un allié de l'Empire
byzantin, le "Comte Vert" Amédée VI de Savoie
(1334-1383), chasse les Bulgares de Kaliakra sous prétexte de
lutter contre l'Islam. Un peu plus tard, la forteresse est reprise et
Dobrotitsa s'en va aider Ivan-Alexandre à repousser de Vidine
les Magyars. En reconnaissance, le tsar le reconnaît "despote" et
lui permet d'être indépendant de la couronne bulgare. Il
fait alors de Kaliakra la clef de voûte d'un système
défensif qui comprend le cap Galata, Kosyak (près
d'Obzor) et le cap Emona. A sa mort (1385), son fils Ivanko lui
succède. En 1396, le cap Kaliakra tombe, avec le despotat de
Dobroudja, sous les coups des Osmanlis. Libéré quelque
quarante ans plus tard par Ladislas VI le Warnénien, il
retombera bientôt (1444), et pour presque 400 ans, sous le joug
ottoman. En 1791, l'amiral russe Ouchakov remporte, au large de ce cap,
une grande victoire navale sur la flotte turque.
Varna - has a history
that could be traced back for thousand years. Due to its favourable
location and visibility of almost 270 degrees the small cape, which now
hosts the sea station, was inhabited by an ancient Thracian tribe –
Corbisy in their small fishermen’s settlement. In 6th century BC a
Greek polis (settlement) inhabited by colonists and settlers from
Millet emerged here under the name of Odessos. The town became a
fishing and farming colony and later on in the 5th century BC it turned
into a real centre of commerce. Up to the Roman domination the Thracian
god Darzalas was worshipped rather than the common gods Apollo and
Dionyssus. Old Greek and Roman sources evidence that in Darzalas’
honour processions, mysteries, games and competitions were organised.
The town had been under the siege of the troops of Alexander of
Macedonia in the middle of the 4th century BC but after the siege was
put down the town was given autonomy within the limits of his Empire.
After the uprising and its liberation during the rule of Lisimah the
town re-established its supremacy at the north Black Sea coast. Up to
the 1st century BC it was an independent polis (town) and minted coins
with the effigy of its patron god. Conquered by Mark Lukulus’ legions,
it became a Roman regional centre of great importance. There the great
epic poet of Rome Ovidii stayed in his way to the town of Tommy
(nowadays Kyustendzha, Romania) where he was sent on exile. Gradually
Odessos lost its supremacy in the region, which was then gained by the
town of Martsianopolis (nowadays Devnya) founded by the emperor Trayan.
Beeing conquered and devastated several times during the barbarian
invasions it was for some time within the Byzantine Empire then out of
its territories. In 9th century it was already called Varna. It is
supposed that the name originates from the horse people in Central Asia
– toponymy (name of an area) and hydronymy (name of a water basin) in
India (the river that runs into the Ganges at Varanassi) and from the
concept of caste (colour). After the numerous wars between Bulgaria and
Byzantine, the town was included in the territory of Bulgaria in the
beginning of the 13th century during the reign of king Kaloyan. Its
defence system consisted of three strongholds: one - at the Cape
Galata; other - at Cape St. Dimitar and the third, called Petrich was
near the lake of Beloslav. Despite its reliable defence system, the
town was conquered by the Turks in 1391 and it soon declined. In 1444,
during the crusade of the Polish king Vladislav Yagello (Varnenchik)
and the Hungarian leader Yanosh Huniady, the town was under the siege
of the knights. Despite the fact that the troops of the Christian
coalition fought bravely they suffered a complete defeat. The young
king Vladislav was killed. The citizens of Varna built a mausoleum in
his honour. In the course of time the town more and more acquired and
Oriental outlook. Many Turks settled there. Mosques, konaks
(town-halls) and Turkish baths were built. The construction of churches
was strongly forbidden for a long time. Varna became a mighty
stronghold, which guarded the north-east borders of the Ottoman Empire
and a commercial and craftsmen’ centre of great importance. During the
Russian-Turkish War in 1828 the town was conquered by the Russian
troops and hold under their rule for some time. An uplift of the
national spirit began in the following decades. Schools, community
centres and churches were built. In 1878 Varna was finally liberated
from Ottoman rule and became the most important Bulgarian seaport town.
At the end of the 19th century it was connected with Sofia by railway.
Many factories were opened, and industrial fishing was developing.
Varna quickly established as a seaside resort as well, enhanced by the
European fashion in architecture and water transport. Entertainment
establishments and holiday houses were built. Varna won the fame of a
favourite place for Bulgarian cultural elite. For a short time the city
was renamed Stalin. After 1956 its previous name was reinstated. Varna
became a centre of the North Black Sea coast and a starting point for
the design and building of the numerous resorts around it. Marine
business was developing – from fishing to the transfer of goods between
the East and the West. Nowadays Varna is an industrial city - the third
biggest one in Bulgaria after Sofia and Plovdiv.
Complément: Varna a grandi à l'emplacement de
l'antique Odessos, fondée au VIème siècle par les
Grecs, occupée par les Romains, fréquentée par les
commerçants de Gênes, Venise et Raguse (l'actuelle
Doubrovnik); tout au long de son histoire, Bulgares et Byzantins s'en
disputèrent la possession. Prise par les Ottomans en 1391, elle
ne fut libérée de ses occupants qu'en 1878. C'est
à Varna que, le 5 juillet 1879, débarqua dans sa future
principauté Alexandre de Battenberg, premier souverain de la
Bulgarie libérée.
Nesebàr - The town was
founded on the place of a Thracian fisherman’s settlement that was
named Menabryia, which meant the town of Mena (the founder of the
settlement). In the 6th century BC it was a colony of the Megarus tribe
from ancient Greece, immigrants from Byzantium and Kalhedon. It
remained the only Doric colony along the Black Sea coast, as the rest
were typical Ionic colonies. The Greeks named it Messembria and
it grew into a big and well-fortified town-state with natural
protection both from the land and the sea. It was equipped with water
mains, a system of sewers, fortified walls, amphitheatre and numerous
cult buildings the most impressive of which was the temple of Apollo.
It became a commercial centre and plenty of goods from the Aegean and
the Mediterranean basins were traded there. The excavated objects
testify to a brisk trade with the ancient world. The town maintained
excellent relations with the neighbouring Thracian tribes and minted
its own coins in 5th century BC. Two centuries later it grew so much
that it founded its own colony called Navlohos near Obzor. The whole
land between Nessebur and Obzor used to be a granary that supplied the
two colonies with food as well as products of exchange and import. In
1st century BC the town fell under Roman rule and surrendered to Marcus
Lukulus’ legions so that it did not suffer any devastation. It was then
that the constructions of the second colony of Messembria began, to the
south of it - Anhialo (present day Pomorie). In the early Middle Ages
the town restored the fortress walls and until 812 it was part of
Byzantium. In the same year it was conquered by Khan Kroum with no
resistance put up, and was included in the territory of Bulgaria. Many
a time the town was under the rule of the Bulgarians and then in the
hands of the Byzantines. During the reign of Ivan Alexander the town
reached its cultural and economic boom, and it grew to the extent of
occupying a huge territory of the land beyond the peninsula. It was
approximately in this period of time when most of the churches of
Nessebur were built and up to this day they are a unique decoration of
the town. According to the world statistics Nessebur is the town having
the biggest number of churches per capita. In 1366 the knights of
Amadeus of Savoy conquered and devastated the town, and then sold it to
Byzantium for 15 000 golden ducats. In 1453 shortly after
Constantinople fell under Turkish domination the town was conquered by
the Ottoman Empire and suffered decay. At the dawn of the Liberation it
was a dilapidated fishermen’s settlement, with well-developed
viticulture on the soft hills above the town. Today Nessebur is
one of the resorts most preferred by tourists and it has been most
attractive ever since the beginning of the century. The constructions
of the new town started at the time together with numerous rest homes,
big and small hotels, and modern facilities for tourism and
entertainment. The old buildings were restored and new houses in
ancient style were built.
Pomorié - There used to
be a Thracian settlement here colonised by the Greeks in later times. A
colony of the metropolis of Messembria was founded here in 5th century
BC. The town was called Anhialo being at the same time a colony of
Apolonia as well (today’s Sozopol). The town gradually worsened its
relations with Messembria because the population of the latter was
Doric in origin and the town was inhabited by the Ionic. The main
occupation was fishing, mining and trading of sea salt. The shallow
firth presented ideal conditions for that - it was where the first
settlers discovered layers of salt in the sand. The ancient town was
situated further inward onto the land in the area called Paleokastro
where one can see its ruins scattered all over. During the Roman
domination Ulpia was added to the name of the town and it surpassed
even Apolonia in its glory for a long time. Anhialo regained its name
in the Middle Ages. It suffered barbarian invasions and in 8th century
it was re-built by the Byzantine empress Irina. The town was
intermittently under Bulgarian and then Byzantine domination, and vice
versa, but more often in the Bulgarian territory. In 1366 it was
conquered and resold to Byzanti-um by Amadeus of Savoy and his knights.
It fell under Ottoman rule together with Nessebur in 1453. At the
time of the Kantakouzins family, successors of the last Byzantine
emperors, the town became restive again; however Mihail - successor of
the family had to escape to Romania. His plan did not succeed and he
was hanged, but his sons managed to escape. After the Liberation the
town regained its power and was of utmost importance in the Bourgas
Bay. In 1906 the town burst in fire and nearly burnt down. It is known
as a salt-mining centre; fruits and vegetables grow here; wine and tin
productions are traditional for the place. Today the main occupation of
its inhabitants is tourism; there is a mud-cure establishment. The
mud-cure lake was discovered in 3rd–4th centuries BC and was later
called the Holy Lake by Anna Komnina (a Byzantine female writer). The
first mud-cure establishment was built here in 1902 after the curing
properties of mud unique for Europe had been proved. The mud is good
for bone and muscular disorders, radiculitis, rheumatism, sciatica,
lumbago, discal hernia, etc.
Sozopol - The first settlements
belonged to the Thracian tribes of Nipsei and Skirimian. In 7th century
BC Greek colonisers settled there and called the town after Apollo, the
God of arts. Apolonia developed mainly as a trading centre for honey,
wax, corn, wine, olive oil, olives, textiles, jewellery, and pottery.
The numerous finds are evidence that this small town used to be the
trading centre of the whole of the Black Sea coast. Much earlier in
13th century BC the argonauts led by Iazon, Heraklitis and Orpheus came
ashore. The love for travelling and discovering made the inhabitants of
Apolonia in those times travel, trade and found new colonies. So were
founded the settlements of Anhialo and Pirgos, Termopolis and Aetos.
The town was included in the union of sea town-states founded by
Percales. Apolonia was frequently in economic and political dispute
with the Doric inhabitants of Messembria; wars were even waged. At the
time the island of Kirik was mainly inhabited. Apolonia sought help
from Philip of Macedonia against the attacks of the Scythians. It was
included in the territory of the Macedonian State at the time of
Alexander the Great and was constantly subject to invasions but it
struggled against the attacks of a number of Nomadic tribes flowing
from north and west. The town fell under Roman domination in 1st
century BC and was severely ruined by the armies of Marcus Lucul. It is
an interesting fact that the Romans quickly restored the ruins, built
new temples, and ordered a thirteen-metre high statue of Apollo by the
sculpturer Kalamis. The statue was sent to Rome as an example of the
arts of this particular Roman province. As early as 6th century
Apolonia minted coins of its own. The Roman domination provided three
centuries of peace until the huge invasion of the barbarian tribes. It
was only in 5th century that the town was included in the territory of
Byzantium. During the reign of Khan Kroum it was within the
borders of Bulgaria and like all other sea towns it frequently fell
under the rule of Byzantium. In the Middle Ages it preserved its status
of a district town. It was severely devastated in the middle of 14th
century during an attack by the Genoa fleet. Later it was conquered and
sold by the knights of Amadeus of Savoy. After a long siege the town
fell under Turkish rule in 1453. Only wooden houses have been built
there ever since; the oldest samples can be observed even today in the
unique old streets. Sozopol welcomed the Liberation as small
fishermen’s settlement. Later the town became the biggest fishing
centre of the Black Sea coast and developed recreation and tourism. The
famous Tsar’s Beach is located to the north of the town. Nestled
between the rocks to the south of the town is the Raiski Beach
(Paradise) and further southwards – the Kavatsite. The Harmanite Beach
is immediately to the south of the so-called “new” town. An ancient
necropolis was found here in 1993 and excavations are still going on.
Malko Tàrnovo - A
Thracian settlement existed on the spot of the present day town; only
mound necropolis have remained. According to the Shkorpil brothers that
is where a Roman roadside station called Outsourgas had been located.
The present town of Malko Turnovo was founded by the end of 16th
century and the beginning of 17th century, most probably by settlers
that had moved from the adjacent huts and smaller villages to settle by
the Golemiya Vris Spring where people still drink its nice water. The
name of the settlement derives from the profusion of prickly thistles
all over the place. Initially Trunovo changed into Turnovo and later
the word “Malko” (small) was added to distinguish it from the name of
the Old Bulgarian capital Turnovo. G. Ensholm was the first to give
information about the town. He participated in Dibich Zabalkanski’s
march at the time of the Russian-Turkish War of 1828-1829. In his book
“Notes on the Towns beyond the Balkan Mountain” he claimed that the
town had 3 500 inhabitants who earned their living primarily with
sheep-breeding, and all the crafts related to it – aba manufacturing
(coarse homespun woollen cloth and upper men’s garment made of it),
tailoring, leather-processing and manufacturing, wool spinning and
weaving, cattle trade, as well as masonry and pottery. There were
excellent goldsmiths and money-changers. People mined marble, part of
which was used for the construction and decoration of the Dolma Bahche
Palace in Istanbul. Trade was well developed in many workshops. In the
second half of 19th century Malko Turnovo was a nice and rich town with
a population of nearly 8 000 inhabitants - Bulgarians. They
passionately preserved the Bulgarian spirit, customs and traditions.
The first monastery school was opened at the beginning of last century.
A secular school was set up in the 40s of 19th century, and about 1875
- a school for young girls. In 1902 the ttown had a performance hall.
According to the Berlin Treaty signed after the Russian-Turkish War of
Liberation (1877-1878) Malko Turnovo was left within the boundaries of
the Ottoman Empire. At the time of the Ilinden-Preobrazhenie Uprising
(1903) the district revolutionary committee was lodged in the town; the
outstanding leaders were Stefan Dobrev, Raiko Petrov, Lefter Mechev,
Diko Dzhelepov, etc. After the severe defeat of the uprising around 5
000 inhabitants of Malko Turnovo had to leave their native place. The
town was liberated from the foreign rule in 1912.
Yambol - The earliest traces of
communal life were discovered in the dozens of pre-historic living
mounds. The so-called Rasheva and Marcheva Mounds are located on the
territory of the present day town. These two date back to the neolith,
eneolith and bronze epoch. Some of the finds recovered there are kept
in the Parisian Louvre, the Archaeological Museum in Sofia, and mostly
in the Museum of History in Yambol. The ancient town sprang up as a
Thracian settlement called Kabile (some 10 km north-west of the town,
near a village of the same name) at an important crossroad; later it
became a significant fortress in the state of Philip of Macedonia.
During the Roman domination the town reached its prime when people
started minting coins. On his way through the town in 293 emperor
Diokletian gave it the name of Diospolis (God’ town). It existed till
378 when the Goths destroyed it. The first written information dates
back to 6th century. Since 11th-14th centuries it was mentioned as a
Bulgarian town having different names - Diospolis, Dianopolis,
Diam-polis, Yampolis, Dublin, Dublino, Douboulino, and the Byzantine
authors mentioned it as Dimpolis, Diampolis, Hiampolis. The town was
mentioned with the name of Dubilin in an inscription of 1357 (the reign
of Tzar Ivan Alexander). At the time it was situated on the border
between Bulgaria and Byzantium, and nearby was the famous entrenchment
Erkesiata. Some of the impressive fortress walls and turrets of
medieval Yambol are still preserved. The town was among the first in
the Balkans to resist the Ottomans. It was conquered in 1373 after a
long siege. During the Ottoman Rule many Turks settled to live around
Hissarluka, and after the Russian-Turkish War of 1829 many Bulgarians
from the town and the vicinity emigrated to Russia. The haidouts (armed
volunteers, leaders or members of detachments) Georgi Garabdchi, Boudak
Stoyan, Kara Dobri, Dyado Zhelyo and others based in countryside of the
town, took part in the battles for liberation. The town is a native
place of the revolutionaries Georgi Drazhev, Radi Kolessov, Zakhari
Velichkov, etc. The Oriental town carried out active with agricultural
products, silkworms, homespun material, predominantly with Odrin and
Tsarigrad. The so-called Salty Road from Anhialo to Plovdiv passed
through the town. The Russian armies liberated it in January 1878. In
memory of this act people built and inaugurated the St. Alexander
Nevski Temple - the first monument of the Bulgarian-Russian friendship
in Bulgaria. It was erected in the Bakadzhitsite area south-east of the
town. In the first half of 20th century Yambol was known for its
curative mineral water, unique rail tram tugged by horses, pheasant
breeders, huge hangar for zeppelins of 1917. John Atanadsov, the
inventor of computers, had kinship in Yambol, and it was a native place
of Peter Noikov - the first professor in pedagogic, Atanas Radev -
elite mathematician, Georgi Papazov and Ivan Popov - world famous
painters, Kiril Krustev – Bulgarian off encyclopedic knowledge,
Stiliana Paraskevova who embroidered the prototype of Bulgarian
national flag.
Khaskovo - The first settlement on this territory dates back to around
7 000 years BC in the neolith period. Throughout its existence, the
town experienced innumerable periods of revival and decay. During the
first half of 13th century near Haskovo history witnessed one of the
most successful battles in Bulgarian history - the Battle of
Klokotnitsa (nearby the village bearing the same name). On 9th March
1230 Tsar Ivan Assen II (1218-1241) inflicted a smashing defeat of the
Byzantine Empire, which had violated the peace treaty. The battle at
Klokotnitsa later proved to have been an event of immense importance
for the entire future of Bulgaria. The town developed into a settlement
of craftsmen although much smaller than the near village of Uzundzhovo,
which hosted a big fair. In fact, during some time Haskovo was called
“Haskyoi by Uzundzovo”. The town was liberated on 19 January 1878 by
General Gourko’s army. After the Balkan Wars the population of the town
grew rapidly as a result of the incoming refugees from the Aegean
Thrace. Gradually, it developed as the tobacco-producing centre in
Bulgaria. The town is the birthplace of the noted Bulgarian scientist
and social activist – Prof. Assen Zlatarov and the famous violin player
Nedyalka Simeonova.
Kàrdzhali - This place
had been a settlement as early as 6 000 years ago. Prehistoric remains
of human life as well as ample examples of the presence of Thracian,
Roman and Byzantine culture have been found plus medieval Bulgarian and
late-Ottoman remains. The first historical finds are associated with
the Thracian tribe koelaleti, subdued by the Romans during 1st century.
Then came the Slavic tribe of Smoleni. During the Middle Ages the
settlement frequently shifted under Bulgarian or Byzanitine rule.
Bulgarian presence is proved by the unique 3-navel Bulgarian basilica
found in Vesselchane Quarter of the town dated to the 11th - 12th
century. This town quarter is heir of medieval Bulgarian town Munyak
demonstrating an architectural style, similar to that of Preslav,
Messemvria and Turnovo. In the 14th century the settlement was
conquered by the Turks, and in 1379 it was populated by colonists from
Asia Minor. In the middle of the 17th century the town was ruled by
Kurdzhi Ali - a noted army leader. It is supposed that accepted the
town was named after him. During the 18th century bloodthirsty
kurdzhalii gangs (Turkish brigands), which ruined not one and two
prospering Bulgarian villages, used to gather in the town. In January
1878 the Don Cossacks of General Chernobouzov liberated the town, which
was to remain within the Eastern Rumelia part of the country, as agreed
under the Berlin Treaty. In 1886 it is given to Turkey again as a
compensation for the Union (1885). On 8th October 1912 the soldiers of
colonel Delov’s regiment liberated the town for the second and last
time. Gradually, Kurdzhali became the “tobacco warehouse of the Eastern
Rhodopes” and later a centre for the development of Bulgarian
non-ferrous metallurgy.
Smolyan - On the 18th of June,
1960 the three neighbouring villages of Smolyan, Raikovo and Ustovo
merged in a town, which was named Smolyan, and presently each one of
the villages is its quarter. Smolyan Quarter (at the highest altitude)
is the successor of the vanished village of Ezerovo, which was situated
3 km above the town, amidst the Smolyan Lakes. During the period of the
attempts to convert the native population to Islam (17th century), its
inhabitants strongly opposed this act and the Turks completely
destroying the village. Some of the inhabitants were killed, others ran
to the mountains and those who adopted the Muslim religion populated
the areas along Cherna River, where the modern quarter lies. The Turks
named this new settlement Pashmaklu. This is the name mentioned by the
French traveller Dr. Paul Luka (1706) and it is recorded in the
inscription of the Overarched Bridge (Beiska Kupriya), built in 1716.
The name of Smolyan was given to this neighbourhood after the
Liberation and it came out of the name of the Slav tribe of Smoleni.
Raikovo Quarter (the quarter in the middle) was divided in the early
ages into Gorno (Upper) and Dolno (Lower) Raikovo. A legend tells us
that the fellow of Momchil the Hero, Raiko founded this settlement.
During the attempt to convert the population to Islam, its inhabitants
strongly resisted, paying for that with more than 200 victims, but they
preserved their religion and village. The first written document about
this settlement dates back to the inscription on a stone of the
Mazolska drinking-fountain (1572). It developed as a craftsmanship
village. Its aba (coarse homespun woollen cloth and upper men’s garment
made of it), woollen cloths and rugs were famous throughout the Ottoman
Empire. Its economic power during the Revival Period revealed in the
building of nice houses of typical Rhodope architecture, churches and
schools. Ustovo Quarter (the lowest) is an old settlement. Its name is
linked to “ustie” (estuary) or “ushtelie” – i.e. it originated from the
geographical location of the settlement. It is situated on an important
crossroad - this was the crossing point of the old roads from Plovdiv
to Xanti and Gyumyur-dzhina and from Drama through Nevrokop (modern
Gotse Delchev) to Kurdzhali and Odrin. This predetermined to a greater
extent its economic and historic development. Ustovo became an
important market centre and significant craftsmanship settlement.
Crafts like coppersmith, tinkering, shoe-making, goldsmith, and
furriery, homespun wollen cloths and tailoring and others were well
developed since early ages. Their products had good market, most of all
in Istanbul and Smirna (Izmir). At the beginning of 19th century the
village achieved great economic and cultural boom. Almost all of the
interesting site and buildings date back to that period. In 1830 the
first monastery school was founded. Priest Gligorko, one of the
prominent defenders of Bulgarian population, lived and worked in
Ustovo. This is the birthplace of some prominent Bulgarians, such as
Sava Stratiev, fighter against Phanariotism and Stoyu Shishkov, a
teacher, ethnographer and a man of letters. After the Liberation the
entire Smolyan region remained under Turkish Rule until 1912.
Gotse Delchev - The first
information about this settlement dates back to 9th-10th centuries and
in 15th century the name of Nevrokoub was mentioned. In 1625 it was
registered as a town. During the Ottoman rule the town developed as a
crafts centre. It was famous for the production of small and large cow
and sheep bells - the renowned chanove for the herds in Pirin and the
Rhodopes (the tradition is been preserved only here). The crafts of
skin processing and saddlery also developed. Annual trade fairs were
held in the town during the second half of 14th century. In the Revival
Period the inhabitants of the town showed acute national consciousness.
They erected churches, a monastery school, a secular school, separate
schools for young boys and young girls respectively, a communal
cultural centre. As stipulated in the Berlin Treaty the town remained
in the territory of Turkey and was liberated in the Balkan War (October
1912). The town gave shelter to many refugees from the Serr and Drama
areas.
Koprivshtitsa originated as a
settlement during the 14th century. Its population dealt with
cattle-breeding, manufacturing of aba (coarse homespun woollen cloth
and upper men’s garment made of it), furriery, dyeing and other crafts.
The citizens of Koprivshtitsa proved to be good merchants, too reaching
as far as Istanbul and Alexandria. The wealthy and urbanised settlement
was plundered and destroyed by fire by kurdzhalii (Turkish brigands)
three times and rebuilt from ashes to reach its greatest prosperity
during the 19th century, when it had over 1000 houses and a population
of nearly 12 000 inhabitants. Spacious houses, schools, churches,
drinking-fountains, bridges were built there. In 1837 Neofit Rilski
(Neophyte of Rila) opened a mutual school and 9 years later Naiden
Gerov founded the first in Bulgaria independent boys’ intermediate
school. In 1864 a girls’ intermediate school was opened here and three
years later Todor Kableshkov opened the students’ society “Zora”
(Dawn). In 1869 the chitalsihte (reading room or community centre) was
opened here. In the same year Vassil Levski established a revolutionary
committee in it. During that time Lyuben Karavelov who was born in
Koprivshtitsa headed the foreign Bulgarian Revolutionary Central
Committee (BRCC) in Bucharest. On 20th April 1876 the first shot of the
April Uprising against Ottoman Rule rang out here, which started the
heroic April epic of Bulgarian people. Todor Kableshkov announced the
Uprising. It was headed by another citizen of Koprivshtitsa - Gavrail
Hlutev, known to the generations to come as Georgi Benkovski - the
adamant and ardent leader of the people’s rebellion, who died
heroically in the Teteven Balkan Mountain. Unlike Batak, Bratsigovo,
Peroushtitsa and other settlements-martyrs, the Osmanli Turks had mercy
on Koprivshtitsa. The wealthy men of Koprivshtitsa paid for it and
thanks to them Bulgaria today is in possession of its most treasured
architectural wealth, untouched by the centuries. The town is the birth
place of a lot of functionaries of our Revival Period and renowned
Bulgarians - Bogdan Voivoda, Doncho Vatah Voivoda, Detelin Voivoda,
Dobri Voivoda (“voivoda” meaning leader of revolutionary detachment of
voluneers), Dimcho Debelyanov, Nayden Gerov.
Plovdiv - Being a crosspoint of
major roads from Western and Central Europe to the Middle East, from
the Baltic to the Mediterranean region and from the Black Sea to the
Adriatic, Plovdiv has ancient millennial history. The most ancient
inhabitants of these areas date back to the New Stone, Stone-copper and
Bronze Ages. Later, during the 1st millennium BC, nearby the three
eastern hills (Dzhambaz Tepe, Taxim Tepe and Nebet Tepe) which were
practically a natural defence fortress, the Thracians founded the
ancient settlement of Eumolpias. In 342 BC the town was conquered by
Philip II, the Macedonian, renamed Philipopole and turned into a
fortress. Later on (3rd – 1st century BC, the town already being known
as Poulpoudeva, was subject to on-going invasions of the Celts. Since
1th century it was under Roman rule and was quickly grew into a key
economic, cultural and political centre of Thracia Province. The town
rapidly developed and occupied the entire area around the Three-hills,
as a result of which the Romans named the town Trimontsium. After the
year 395, when the Roman Empire had fallen apart, the town remained in
its eastern part - Byzantine. During the next two centuries the town
was many times ruined and set on fire by the Huns and the Gothic
tribes. The Emperor Justinian (527-565) turned it into a strategic
fortress along the northern Byzantine border. At the end of 6th century
the Slavs populated the area and named the town Puldin (originating
from the ancient name of Poulpoudeva). In 815 Khan Krum included the
town within the borderlines of Bulgaria. From this moment on until it
fell under Turkish rule, Plovdiv (already named so) was subject to
numerous takeovers, frequently being under the rules of either the
Bulgarians or the Byzantines. In 1364 the Ottomans conquered the town
and called it Phillibe. Being left far in the back area of the Ottoman
Empire, the town lost its strategic location and gradually declined. It
was only during the Revival Period that Plovdiv regained its glorious
name of a large economic and cultural centre. A new class of craftsmen
and merchants was established, having a newly formed national spirit
and material wellbeing. A large number of residential housings and
public facilities preserved as cultural monuments, date back to that
Revival Period. Prominent Revival enlighteners, cultural and political
figures - Naiden Gerov (a writer, enlightener and Consul of Russia in
Plovdiv), the icon-painters Zakhari Zograf, Dimitur Zograf, Stanislav
Dospevski, the wood-carver Ivan Pashkula and many others worked in the
town at that time. The residence and the inn of the Turpevi Brothers
gave shelter to our national Apostle Levski several times, and in 1870
a local revolutionary committee was founded. The troops of General
Gurko liberated the town on January 17, 1878. At that time this was the
biggest Bulgarian town. After the Berlin Congress (1878) Plovdiv was
proclaimed capital of Eastern Roumelia. It promoted an intensively
diversified public and cultural life. Ivan Vazov, Konstantin Velichkov,
Zakhari Stoyanov and some other reputable Bulgarians lived and worked
in the town for some time. A great number of refugees came to the town
from the areas of White Sea Thrace, Aegian, Pirin and Vardar Macedonia.
The town hosted the proclamation of the Reunification of the Kingdom of
Bulgaria and Eastern Roumelia on September 6, 1885 - an extraordinary
in its significance revolutionary act, proving the strong and
irreconcilable Bulgarian spirit in pursue of its national ideal. It is
by no chance that this date - September the 6th - is currently an
official holiday of the Republic of Bulgaria.
Chirpan (prononcer Tchirpan) -
Chirpan is considered the heir to the Roman settlement Sherampol, which
was established close to the Roman town of Pizus (the Hissarluka Area
close to the village of Rupkite, 7 kilometres to the north of today’s
Chirpan). It has been accepted that Sherampol (translated “the city of
nice friends”) was established by fleeing refugees. The present name of
the town is supposed to derive from the Roman Sheramnol although todays
town emerged at a much later stage - most probably in the 17th century
around Tekira Springs under the name of Dzherpan. During the Bulgarian
Revival (18th - 19th century) the settlement grew as a town with
well-developed agriculture and crafts. During the struggle for the
independence of the Bulgarian Church it was the people of Chirpan who
made the first sacrifices - Velko Boyadziyata and Kaba Ivan. After the
Liberation crafts were in decay due to the loss of markets in the
Ottoman Empire but in their place vine-growing and wine-making
underwent a rapid development. The town was severely hit by the
earthquake of 1928. It is the birthplace of the great Bulgarian lyric
and revolutionary Peyo Kracholov Yavorov, of the painter Georgi Danchov
– Zografina, one of Levski’s comrades, of the painter Nikola Manev
known far beyond Bulgarian borders and of the poet Dimitur Danailov.
Stara Zagora - Mostly due to
its central position this town has a rich and most interesting history.
In the 6th century BC it was a major Thracian settlement called Beroe.
In the 2nd century the Romans built the town and call it Augusta
Trayana (to the name of the emperor Trayan), which is soon to become
one of the greatest and most famous towns in Roman Thrace. At the
beginning of the 6th century the town was destroyed, later on to be
populated by incoming Slavic tribes, who named it Vereya. For some time
in the mid of 8th century is was conquered by the Byzantine Empire and
renamed again, this time in honour of the Empress - Irinopolis. In th
9th century the town became an administrative centre of a vast district
under the name of Borui. It was as late as the 12th - 14th century that
the district was named Zagore wherefrom much later its contemporary
name derived. Under the Turkish Rule it was known as Eski Hisar (old
fortress) and after 1488 – as Eski Zaara (“zaara” meaning a fertile
area). During the Revival Stara Zagora is an important economic centre
populated by Bulgarians mainly, extremely active in the spheres of the
Bulgarian educational revival and national liberation movement. Among
the teacher in the five-class primary school of 1859 are the esteemed
enlighteners Neofit Rilski, Ivan Bogorov, P. R. Slaveikov and among the
pupils one reads the names of Vassil Levski and Raina Popgeorgieva. A
revolutionary committee was established in town and it was headed by
Kolyo Ganchev, Georgi Apostolov and the Zhekov Brothers under the
leadership of Stefan Stambolov and Georgi Ikonomov but due to treason,
the planned uprising failed before it was to start. For the third time
in its history Stara Zagora was put to the torch and turned to ashes
during the Russian-Turkish War of Liberation. After the Liberation the
town was built yet once again in the fashion of straight geometrical
system – straight streets crossing in perpendicular. The town plan was
worked out by the Czheck urbaniser Loubor Bayer. The principles laid
therein are further observed in the construction works, which makes the
town unique in Bulgaria.
Stara Zagora is the birthplace of the poets Kiril Hristov, Nikolai
Liliev, Vesselin Hanche; of the singer Hristina Morphova; of the
painters Anton and Georgi Mitovi, Atanas Mihov, Mario Zhekov. It is
commonly known as the “town of lime-trees and poets”.
Kazanlàk - Si, dans la
plus haute antiquité, le col de Chipka n'est qu'un chemin de
cavaliers, la région de Kazanlàk est cependant une place
stratégique. En effet, la grande voie qui relie la plaine de
Thrace et la mer Egée à la vallée du Danube (et,
plus tard, Tàrnovo à Constantinople) passe par le col
voisin de Triavna. C'est là que s'établit la fameuse
capitale du royaume thrace des Odryses: Seuthopolis (aujourd'hui sous
les eaux du barrage, terminé en 1950, sur la Toundja, à 7
km à l'ouest de l'emplacement de l'actuelle Kazanlàk).
Fondée, à la fin du IVe siècle avant notre
ère, par le roi Seuthès III, elle atteint rapidement une
population de 50,000 âmes. A l'abri de murs épais de
2 mètres, garnis de tours et de bastions, ses maisons,
spacieuses et pourvues de canalisations, sont composées de
pièces qui rayonnent autour d'une cour intérieure. Son
palais royal posède une façade de 40 mètres.
Conquise par les Macédoniens, elle est rasée par les
Celtes vers la fin du IIIe siècle avant notre ère.
Ceux-ci établissent leur capitale, Thylis, à deux
pas de là, peut-être à l'emplacement actuel de
Toulovo. Au Moyen-Age, à 6 km au nord de la ville
actuelle, se dresse la forteresse de Krane... qui est détruite
lors de l'avance des envahisseurs musulmans, après une
âpre bataille dans les environs des villages de Toulovo et
Maglige, entre les troupes de Saradja Pacha et les troupes
bulgares. Fondée peu après par l'occupant turc (du moins
le pense-t-on, car la première mention de la cité
n'apparaît qu'au XVIIe siècle, sous la plume de Hadji
Kalfa), Kazanlàk hérite des fonctions de l'ancienne
localité de Krane. - Au XIXe siècle, Konstantin
Irétchèk, l'auteur de "Voyages à travers la
Bulgarie", la décrit comme "enfouie dans la verdure de ses
noyers, au point que ses mosquées ne parviennent pas à
dresser leurs minarets au-dessus des frondaisons". En 1871, c'est une
ville de 20,000 habitants, comprenant 2,500 maisons bulgares, 1,500
maisons turques, 16 mosquées, 4 églises et un
monastère. Kazanlàk compte aujourd'hui 58,000 habitants
mais la plupart des mosquées ont disparu, ainsi, d'ailleurs, que
la plus grande partie du vieux quartier turc. - Mais où
donc, dans l'histoire de la ville, se situe l'introduction de la fleur
dont elle sera la capitale? Il semblerait que la rose ait
été introduite vers le XVIIe siècle, venant d'Asie
Mineure. Une vieille légende (d'autres diront: "Une histoire
à l'eau de rose!") raconte qu'un jeune homme de la région
fut, un jour, convié par le sultan d'Istanbul pour y construire
un palais. Enchanté par la perfection du travail, le Turc lui
offrit "ce qu'il désirait le plus!". Mais l'outrecuidant bulgare
demanda la main de sa fille. Avant d'être chassé par le
sultan, l'amoureux reçut, de la main de la belle, un plant de
rose. Rentré au pays, en souvenir de sa tendre dulcinée,
il le planta devant sa fenêtre... Le rosier fut heureux et eut
beaucoup de petits plants.
Kalofer - Son nom ne figure pas
dans l'histoire ancienne et médiévale de la
Bulgarie. A cet endroit, il y avait des forêts denses
et impraticables. A l'ouest, dans la vallée de la
rivière Byala (la rivière blanche), se trouvait la
vieille ville de Zvanigrad, dont il ne reste plus aucune trace
aujourd'hui.
Due to the strong resistance, the Turks wiped out the town, but
the proud and sturdy defenders remained unconquered. A group of 40
heroes, led by Kalifer Voivoda (“voivoda” meaning leader of a group of
armed revolutionaries), roamed for long throughout the area, defending
their fellow Bulgarians and arousing terror in the Ottomans. The Turks
were powerless to deal with the detachment and so the Sultan gave the
voivoda permission to settle in the woods along with his men, giving
them privileges to establish a settlement with the statute of
derventdzhii (special guards of the roads and passes in the mountains,
appointed by the Turks). The haidouti (armed revolutionaries,
volunteers, members of a detachment) kidnapped maids from Sopot, which
was famous for its beauties, and that is how the town of Kalofer
originated. It is not by chance that the history of the town during the
long Turkish yoke is full of names of famous revolutionaries, haidouts
and rebels - from Kalifer Voivoda, Old Man Mlachko, Chono Chorbadzhi,
Dobri Voivoda and Gulub Voivoda to the great poet and revolutionary
Hristo Botev. Twice the kurdzhalii (Turkish brigands) ruined the town -
in 1799 and 1804, but it quickly recovered and grew wealthy. During the
first half of the 19th century Kalofer, like all our towns south of the
Balkan Range, reached its zenith. Travellers notice that in it there
are more than 1000 loom sites for woollen braids, a lot of mills for
processing wool and dye-houses. The craftsmen and merchants of Kalofer
traded with Constantinople, Vienna, Odessa, Braila. They did not call
the town Altun Kalofer (Golden Kalofer) for nothing. In 1845 a big new
school was built, and in 1871 a school for girls was built, too. All
kinds of educational societies were formed. A lot of renowned writers
and public figures are natives of Kalofer - Ekzarh Yossif I, Dimitur
Mutev, Elena Muteva (the first Bulgarian poetess), Hristo
Tupchileshtov, Ivan Shopov (a student of folklore and the first
Bulgarian bibliographer) and others. Many people of Kalofer enrolled in
the detachments of Panayot Hitov, Phillip Totyo, Hadgi Dimitur and
Stefan Karadzha, Bacho Kiro. At the end of the Turkish rule there were
as much as 15 haidout detachments roaming in Kalofer’s vicinity. Over
500 natives of Kalofer were members of haidout detachments and groups.
During the War of Liberation (1877 - 1878) Kalofer shared Karlovo and
Sopot’s fate - it was plundered and set on fire by the bashibozouks.
Almost nothing is left of the pre-liberation Kalofer.
Troyan - The name of the town
comes from the ancient Roman road crossing the Balkan Mountain through
today’s Troyan Pass - Via Trayana, which linked Misia with Thrace and
the Aegean Sea. The origin of the today’s settlement is thought to go
back somewhere at the beginning of the 15th century, when, after
Bulgaria fell under Ottoman Rule, a lot of Bulgarian refugees settled
down in this hard-to-reach and forested region running away from the
arbitrary rule of the Turks. Later on the migrations continued and
Troyan grew up but about the year 1800 the town suffered three
invasions of the kurdzhalii (Turkish brigands) who devastated it. In
spite of this during the 19th century the town reached a high material
and cultural prosperity. The crafts were those, which reached their
greatest development, pottery and woodcarving in particular. More than
half of the population of the town made their living on the basis of
these crafts till World War II. The bright and intelligent mountain
dwellers realised that their future lays in faith and enlightenment.
Talented master builders created magnificent patterns of the Bulgarian
Revival church architecture in the town and within the region - in 1835
Saint Paraskeva Church in Troyan and The Assumption Church in the
Troyan Monastery were built (refer to the Stara Planina related chapter
herein). In 1839 the Saint Nikolai Letni Church was erected in the area
of Goumoshtnik whose wood-carved iconostasis is a unique of its kind
work of the Bulgarian Revival Art. In 1870 a Community Cultural Centre
was set up in Troyan, in which 2 years later the commencement of the
theatrical activities in the town was set up with the performance of
“Genoveva the Martyr”. In 1872 the “Yellow School” was built up in the
town, in which the modern secular program of teaching was introduced
involving studies of the French language as well. The inhabitants of
the town of Troyan did not let the revolutionary processes go past them
either. In 1869 they enthusiastically met the Apostle Vassil Levski and
Matei Preobrazhenski - Mitkaloto. Two years later a secret
revolutionary committee was set up there at Levski’s initiative. During
the Russian-Turkish War of Liberation in August 1877 Troyan was
devastated by the bashibozouks (Turkish army of volunteers), but its
population rendered invaluable assistance to General Kartsov when his
army passed the Balkan Mountain through the Troyan Pass. After the
liberation the town was rebuilt out of the ashes. In 1911 the first
electric bulb was lit and soon after that Troyan became the third
electrified town in Bulgaria (after Sofia and Plovdiv). The building of
the railway line Lovech – Troyan gave an impetus to the development of
the town - it commenced in 1929 and was completed in 1948. Troyan is
the birthplace of Ivan Hadzhiiski (our greatest sociologist and nations
psychologist), Prof. Dr. Nikola Shipkovenski (psychiatrist) and a lot
of other outstanding names. In the autumn of 1998, 130 years of the
proclamation of Troyan as a town were solemnly celebrated.
Lovech (prononcer Lovetch)- The
town is a descendant of the Thracian by-the-road town of Melta (in
today’s area of Hissarluka) which had a strategic location along the
Danube-Aegean Sea main road. During the Medieval times the town
remained an important military strategic centre and it was called
Lovuts (a town of hunters) by the 11th century. During the 12th century
it was moved to the right bank of the Osum River where the quarter of
Varosha is situated now. After the Turnovo Uprising the Lovech Fortress
firmly defended the approaches to Turnovo and after a 3-month siege the
Byzantine Empire was forced to conclude the well-known Lovech Peace
Treaty (1187), stipulating a new beginning for the Bulgarian state.
Since the end of the Byzantine domination the town has been known by
its today’s name - Lovech. During the 13th and particularly during the
14th century it was one of the biggest towns and fortresses in Northern
Bulgaria and it reached an enviable economic prosperity. The town fell
under Ottoman Rule in 1393. The last semi-independent ruler of the
Lovech Fortress - Stanko Kussam, became a haidoutin (rebel) after its
downfall. In the first centuries of Ottoman Rule the town declined and
it was not until the 18th and particularly during the 19th century that
it became well off, thanks to crafts and trade. It was called Altun
Lovech (Golden Lovech). In 1870 the town had 11 thousand inhabitants.
As early as in 1839 the struggle for an independent Bulgarian church
began here. The first schools were opened in 1846-1847 and one of the
first teachers here was the people’s poet and writer Petko R.
Slaveikov. In 1870 a chitalishte (community cultural centre and
reading-room) was established here and two years later the first
theatrical performance was held under the guidance of Angel Kunchev.
There was an old covered wooden bridge over the Osum River but the
river carried it away in 1872. Only 2 years after that the self-studied
master of genius craftsman master usta Kolyu Ficheto built up his
famous covered bridge with 24 small workshops in it. Unfortunately it
was burned to ashes by a fire in 1925. The present (unique in the
country) covered bridge was built up on the analogy of it. During the
years of the national liberation movement (the second half of the 19th
century) Lovech turned into the revolutionary capital of Bulgaria. In
1869 Vassil Levski laid the foundations of the local revolutionary
committee and in the following year he pointed Lovech as a centre of
the Internal Revolutionary Organisation. It was from here on that the
fibres entwining all the country started and they rose the Bulgarian
people in battle for national independence. On 17th July 1877 Lovech
was liberated by the squadron of Col. Zherebkov and Col. Parensov but
10 days later the Turks conquered it again and slaughtered over 2500
Bulgarians in the town and in its surroundings. The town was finally
liberated on 3rd September 1877 by the units of Gen. Imeretinski, Gen.
Skobelev and Gen. Dobrovolski. Its freedom was won at the price of 1683
Russian victims. After the Liberation Lovech loses the markets in the
Ottoman Empire. The construction of the railway line Levski - Lovech
(1932) and its extension to Troyan (1948) gave an impetus in the
development of the town. For the last few years the town has
established itself as a big cultural and tourist centre.
Veliko Tàrnovo is the
town with the most glorious historical past in Bulgaria. It is a symbol
of Bulgarian statehood and a source of national pride for every
Bulgarian. Each little place in it is history. The earliest
traces were found on the Trapezitsa Hill (dating back to first half of
the 3rd millennium BC). Remnants on Tsarevets Hill date back to the end
of the Bronze Era (13th century BC). This oldest settlement was
inhabited by Thracians (the tribes of uzdicenses and crobises) and
existed by the end of the Iron Era. Its prosperity is related to 6th
century BC - till 1st century AC. Its traces in the first centuries of
the Roman Rule are lost on our lands (at the beginning of the new
era). The next layer of Tsarevets is early Byzantine, from the
5th to the first half of the 7th century when there was a fortified
town on the hill (one of the supporting points of Byzantium in the
northern part of the Balkan Peninsula), which withstood for 3
centuries. A big Slavonic-Bulgarian settlement of the 8th to 10th
century was founded on the ruins of this town. At the end of the 10th
century the hill was already densely populated and in the 12th century
it was a fortified town and a significant economic centre. The origin
of the name is related to the Slavonic word “tern” or “trun” (thorn)
and during the years it developed into Ternov, Trunov, Tur-nov,
Turnovgrad, Turnovo and Veliko Turnovo, being called “Veliko” (Great)
in relation to its size, beauty and grandeur. In 1187 the Uprising of
Assen and Peter was successfully completed, the Byzantine Rule was
thrown off and Turnovgrad became the capital (the third capital in the
history of Bulgaria) of the restored Bulgarian Kingdom. The following
two centuries are “golden” in the history of the town. The Tsar’s
Palace and the Bulgarian Patriarchy were situated on the Tsarevets Hill
and the houses of the boyars and the senior priesthood as well as a lot
of churches were situated on Trapezitsa Hill. Assenova Mahala
(quarter), located between the above mentioned hills, by the Yantra
River, was inhabited by craftsmen. The district of foreign merchants
(Franks) was to the south-east of the Baldwin Tower. Thick fortified
walls of the “internal town” protected Tsarevets and Trapezitsa. The
other two quarter also had fortified protection and formed the
“external town”. Solely the dwellings of the destitute among the
non-privileged people remained outside the fortifications at the
foothill of the Momina Krepost (Maiden’s Fortress) Hill, in the
immediate proximity of the Yantra River. During the 13th and 14th
centuries the capital of Bulgaria was a big political, economic, trade
and cultural centre in Europe. The Bulgarian State reached the heights
of its development during this period. Along with Byzantium it was the
first power on the Old Continent. Magnificent palaces, monasteries,
churches, fortifications, bridges, big houses were built here. The
Turnovo School of Painting and the Turnovo Literary School, whose
founders, organisers and most prominent representatives are Patriarch
Evtimii and Teodosii Turnovski (of Turnovo), developed and carried out
their versatile activities here. All the prosperity and spiritual
upsurge was discontinued on 17th July 1393, when after a 3-month siege
Veliko Turnovo, and gradually the whole of Bulgaria succumbed under
Ottoman Rule... The Metropolitan town was in ashes. Centuries were to
pass before the town was able to recuperate and experience a new
economic, cultural and political upsurge during the Revival period.
Crafts developed, trade flourished, beautiful houses, public buildings,
churches (with the greatest contribution in that respect belonging to
the unsurpassed Master Kolyu Ficheto), the aspiration for enlightenment
and national self-awareness started to find their implementation and
the struggle for ecclesiastical and national independence gained
strength. The population of the old Bulgarian Metropolis took part in
the Turnovo Uprisings of 1598, 1686 and 1700, in Velcho Conspiracy
(1835), in the Uprising of Captain Dyado Nikola (1856), in Hadzhi
Stavrev’ Revolt (1862) and in the April Uprising of the rebellious year
of 1876. Then Bacho Kiro, Tsanko Dyustabanov and a lot of other
fighters for freedom were hanged under the gallows erected in the town
square. The Apostle Levski came here more than once (the last time in
1872, unfortunately enchained). On 7th July 1877 Veliko Turnovo was
free again. From 10th February to 16th April 1879 the Constituent
Assembly, which developed the First Bulgarian Constitution - the
Turnovo Constitution, one of the most democratic constitutions in
Europe for that time, convened here. On 17th April 1879 the first Great
National Assembly of liberated Bulgaria convened in Veliko Turnovo to
elect a head of state. On 27th July the same year Alexander Battenberg
was elected as Bulgaria’s knyaz (first prince). It was namely here that
on 6th September 1885 Stefan Stambolov and Petko Karavelov made the
decision to acknowledge the union of the Principality of Bulgaria with
Eastern Roumelia. Although Sofia became the capital of Bulgaria after
the Liberation, Veliko Turnovo continued to be a sanctuary for all
Bulgarians, a bastion of Bulgarian national spirit and self-awareness.
It is the birthplace of Petko R. Slaveikov, of the great actor
Konstantin Kissimov, of the writers Emiliyan Stanev and Dimitur Mantov
and of a lot of other eminent Bulgarians.
Et où nous
n'aurons pas le temps d'aller...
Svishtov - The town is a
successor of the Roman (and later on of the Early Byzantine) town of
Nove (1st century) - an important strategic centre with naval
functions. During the Middle Ages it was called Stuklen, and in the map
of Fra Mauro of 1459 it was marked under the name of Sistovo, which is
the transcription of today’s name of the town. Svishtov comes from
“svesht” (candle). During the first centuries of the Ottoman Rule there
were several huts here, which lit up with fires along the river banks
the way of boats and sailing-vessels during the night-time. Gradually
the future town of Svishtov was formed around them. The town reached an
enviable development during the 19th century in spite of its complete
destruction during the Russian-Turkish War of 1810. In 1865 Dr. Ivan
Bogorov described Svishtov as “the most commercial place” of our towns.
In 1869 there were 957 stores and 720 warehouses there. The first high
school of commerce in Bulgaria was established in Svishtov (1873). The
well-known traveller of 19th century Felix Kanits wrote: “Svishtov has
been enjoying the reputation of an European town with an European
market for a long time.” Within the time period from 1850 to 1860 in
the port of Svishtov there were about 150 vessels sailing along the
Danube with water displacement of 120 000 tons, a part of which
belonged to Svishtov merchants. In 1867 the Danubian Steam Society was
established with the merchant from Svishtov Nikola Stanchov as the
chief shareholder. The Society purchased the Austrian-Hungarian ship
“Commencement” and three tank barges for transportation of cereals. The
tangible welfare of the town was reflected in its cultural life as
well. In 1841 Hristaki Pavlovich established a new Bulgarian school and
a secular school for girls. One of the first in Bulgaria chitalishta
(reading-clubs) with a museum with it was set up here in 1856. In 1884
the first in Bulgaria Commercial High School opened its gates (today’s
High School of Economy). The outstanding Revival public figures Nikolai
Pavlovich, Emanuil Vaskidovich, Hristaki Pavlovich and a lot of other
eminent functionaries worked here as well. Schools, churches, beautiful
houses were built in thse years. On 26th and 27th June the key forces
of the Russian Army disembarked on the bank of the Danube River in the
locality of Tekirdere (at the distance of 4 km east of Svishtov) and
the Russian-Turkish War of Liberation began. Although the Turks did not
anticipate the crossing of the Danube River by the main Russian units
to take place namely here, they put up ferocious resistance and it was
in the first battle for Bulgarian freedom that 814 Russian soldiers and
officers found their death. The town lost its initial first-grade
significance after the Liberation, but it remained an important
economic, cultural centre and grew as a tourist centre as well. Since
1936 Svishtov has been an academic town, too in relation to the opening
of the Higher Institute of Finance and Economics “Dimitur Tsenov” (in
the name of an outstanding Bulgarian patron). Svishtov is the
birthplace of Dragan Tsankov, Grigor Nachevich, Nikolai Pavlovich,
Dimitur Tsenov, Alexander Bozhinov, Tsvetan Radoslavov (author of the
song, on the basis of which “Mila Rodino” (“Dear Motherland”) -
Bulgarian national anthem was composed) and of the great Bulgarian
writer - humorist, democrat and creator of the organized hiking
movement in our country - Aleko Konstantinov.
Ruse (prononcer Rousse) - The
famous Rousse mound - a prehistoric settlement existed more than 5000
years ago is located within the boundaries of the modern town. At the
beginning of the new era on a part of the territory of the modern town
of Rousse an ancient settlement of Sexaginta Prista (The sixty ships)
emerged, where “prista” means a particular type of a Greek river guard
vessel. Probably it was founded by the Roman Emperor Vespasian (69-79).
Later on it was known under the names of Pristis and Pristapolis. It
existed up to the 6th century, when the Avars brought it to ruins. In
Medieval times a new settlement emerged near the ruins of the ancient
settlement, and information about it was found for the first time in
the Broush Guidebook of the 16th century under the name of Rossi. In
the Sultan Register of 1431 and in a Peace Treaty concluded between the
Ottoman Empire and the Magyar state dated 20th of August 1503 the
settlement was mentioned under the name of Roussi. In Ahmed Neshri
chronicles as well as in many other old maps the town was shown as a
wholesome town together with the settlement of Giurgiu on the opposite
side of the Danube River named Yorgogi, Yorgovo, Yuroukova, Roussi on
both sides of the Danube River, Giurgiu on both sides of the Danube
River. In 1595 the Wallachian ruler Mihai Vityazoul (the Courageous)
made an attempt to liberate Bulgaria with an Wallah-Bulgarian army and
the town was brought to ruins. After its reconstruction at the
beginning of the 17th century it was given the name of Rouschouk
(little Roussi). The town turned into an important port and a strong
border fortress. In 1811 the Russian General Koutouzov carried out the
famous Rouschouk battle and became known as a talented military
commander. In 1864 the town became the centre of the Danube District of
the Ottoman Empire. In 1866 the building of the first railway road in
Bulgarian lands - Rouschouk-Varna was completed. The first modern
agricultural farm was founded under the name of Noumine (Exemplary
farm). The River Management was founded as well and in a short period
of time 7 steam ships and 15 barges were purchased. A printing house
was opened with printing machines from Vienna where newspapers, books
and textbooks were printed. The bookshop of Hristo G. Danov was opened
at that time. To meet the needs of the secular education in Rouschouk
in 1843 Alexander Rousset published in Strasbourg the first
geographical map in Bulgarain. European influence penetrated into the
town through the active river transport along the Danube River
(predominantly Austro-Hungarian ships) and this had positive impact on
the development of the town. Architecture developed, too and the
construction of private and public buildings resembling the style of
the capital of the Austro-Hungarian Empire _ Vienna commenced. The
European fashion in clothing also penetrated first in this Bulgarian
town. On the 1st January 1866 the first in Bulgaria meteorological
observations began here with modern Austrian equipment. Rouschouk was
not left aside from the struggle for spiritual and national liberation
either, moreover that in its capacity of being a gate to Europe it was
here that the modern freedom-loving ideas of the Old Continent made
their way into the country. Zora (Dawn) Chitalishte (reading room and
community centre) and the home of the extraordinary Bulgarian woman
patriot baba (grandmother) Tonka Obretenova became centres of the
national struggle. A lot of revolutionaries were assisted to leave the
Empire or to return to their Fatherland. It was here that Angel Kunchev
- one of the most faithful and ardent folllowers of Vassil Levski died
here during an exchange of fire with the Turkish police. Baba Tonka,
her sons and daughters, revolutionaries who gave their lives for the
freedom of Bulgaria - Stefan Karadzha, Angel Kunchev, Zahari Stoyanov,
Lyuben Karavelov, Panayot Hitov, Hristo Makedonski, Dimitur Tsenovich
and a lot of other great Bulgarians were buried in this town. A
Pantheon-Charnel House of the national Revival heroes with an
everlasting fire was opened in Rousse in 1979. The bones of many of the
453 dignified Bulgarians, who were born in or who linked their lives
with this town and whose names are inscribed in the Pantheon were
collected in it. On 20th February 1878 the Russian Army led by General
Totleben entered Rouschouk and was enthusiastically welcomed by the
population led by Archbishop Kliment Branitski (Vassil Droumev). The
town was the biggest in the liberated Bulgarian lands _ over 20 000
inhabitants. On 31st July 1879 the Bulgarian flag of the ships donated
by Russia was risen which marked the beginning of the organised
Bulgarian river navigation. The first marine technical school, later on
moved to Varna, was opened here in 1881. The same year was found the
first Bulgarian bank _ Girdap. In 1889 the first Bulgarian Chamber of
Commerce, and two years later the first joint-stock insurance company
–Bulgaria - were established in Rousse. As of the end of the 19th
century a lot of celebrated architects did their creative work in the
liberated of Rousse (Edward Winter, Udo Ribau, Georg Lang, Edwin
Petritski, Negos Bedrossyan, Todor Tonev, Nikola Lazarov and others),
painter-decorators (Karlo Francescani, Giovanni Pitor and others),
landscapers (Ferdinand Halober, Rihard Noyvirt and others). It is not
due to randomness that Rousse is being considered the most European
Bulgarian town even nowadays. The writers Elias Kaneti, awarded the
Nobel Prize for literature for 1981, Dobri Nemirov, Michael Arlan were
born here, Lyuben Karavelov, Ivan Vazov, Stoyan Mihailovski, the poet
Tsvetan Radoslavov, author of the text of the Bulgarian national
anthem, the painter Joul Pasken (Pinkas), the pianist Otto Liebih, the
opera singer Mimi Balkanska, Academician Mihail Arnaoudov lived
here. The role of the town grew up even more with the
construction of the so-called Bridge of Friendship between the
Bulgarian and the Rumanian banks in 1954. It was here that at the end
of the 1980-ies the civil movement for protection of the town from the
pollution of the Giurgiu Chemical Works (Rumania) originated and it
marked the beginning of the democratic changes in Bulgaria. Nowadays
Rousse is a big economic, transport, cultural and tourist centre.
Silistra - There are very few
Bulgarian towns that can compete with Silistra in richness of
historical past. The town is the successor of the Roman Durostorum
(translated as “solid fortress”, built by Emperor Trayan). It was first
mentioned in 105. In 169 during the reign of emperor Marcus Aurelius
Durostorum became a municipal – an independent town (in 1969 people
celebrated 1800th anniversary of the town) that domineered as a centre
of the Roman province of Dolna Mizia. The town was one of the early
centres, which promoted Christianity. In 303 the soldier Dazius was
beheaded, and the local inhabitant Emilian perished on the stake; both
of them were partisans of the new Christian faith. They were declared
saints and included in the catholic calendar. The great commander
Flavius Aecius was born here; he was the one who defeated Atila, the
Huns’ leader whom the inhabitants of Rome had considered a real horror.
The successor of Rome, i.e. Byzantium, restored the ruins of the town
during the reign of emperor Justinian in 6th century and gave it the
name of Dorostol. Until 600 it had been an episcopal centre. The
Bulgarians called it Drustur and after the adoption of Christianity it
became the main religious centre in the country. Under the Byzantine
rule it was a main town in the region of Podounavie. In 1074 a
rebellion against the Byzantine under the leadership of Nestor broke
off. The town was an important fortress of the Bulgarian kingdom in
13th-14th centuries. In 1388 the Romanian leader Mircha Stari conquered
the town, and after 1413 it was within the territory of the Ottoman
Empire. The town received its present day name during the Turkish rule
as a result of the preceding Diristur and Dristra. The poet Partenius
Pavlovich was born in Silistra in 1695. During the Russian-Turkish wars
at the end of 18th century and the first half of 19th century the great
Russian generals Roumyantsev, Souvorov, Bagration, Kou-tou-zov, Dibich
Zabalkanski took part in battles near the fortress of Silistra (in fact
there were two fortresses - Medgeditabia and Arabtabia on both hills
above the town) which later on became part of the defensive rectangular
of the Turkish empire (Rouschouk - Silistra - Varna - Shoumen). In 1958
the inhabitants of Silistra received as a present the key to the
fortress of Silistra which had been seized as a trophy on 12 June 1810
by generals Kamenski and Koutouzov, and kept in Sanct Petersburg.
Between 1828 and 1835 Silistra was a free town as a result of its
conquest by the Russian army with captain Georgi Mamarchev at the lead
(a Bulgarian in Russian service). The great writer Lev Nikolaevich
Tolstoy took part in the Russian siege in 1854. In 1812 a monastery
school was established, and in 1891 - a pedagogical school, in
Silistra. The Swiss Louie Aier spent some time teaching physical
education (his name was associated with popularising a number of sports
in Bulgaria) in the town (as well as in Rousse and Lom) and died as an
officer in World War I near Doyran. From 1913 till 1940 the town was
within the boundaries of Romania.