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Working as a Fisheries Observer in the South Atlantic |
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When I wasn't working most of the time was spent either sleeping or watching the giant petrels and albatross fighting over offal dumped from the ship. It was a constant comedy as the three species of albatross (Black headed, grey headed and royal) and giant petrels squabbled over discarded fish bits. Each species has its own strategy. The black heads and petrels dominate the fray until the less frequently observed larger royals bully their way into the middle of a the fight and take the fish from them. Grey heads are a little less willing to get involved in the argy-bargy and restrict themselves to hit-and-run raids.
Almost every day that the ship was fishing we were accompanied by sperm whales and usually we could see orca and seals. The sea-birds follow the whales and often the first sign that one was in the vicinity was a raft of birds on the horizon. The captain would curse at the sight of orcas since they would steal toothfish from the hooks.
After three months, when food supplies were running low the ship headed for Montevideo. It took over a week to get there and icebergs and sunsets were often the highlight of the day. By this time the cook was struggling to put sensible meals on the table.
I have many memories from this trip that cannot be adequately communicated by words or pictures. The most painful is of this ship and its crew. We often passed the time chatting with the officers; banter, philosophy, fishing, conservation, politics, sport. I grew to know them as friends. They didn't make it back, the ship sank during a horrendous gale on the 7th of June - fortunately, the observer was amongst the survivors.
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