Combat Customizing
Enduras & Delicas
Spyderco Endura and Delica models can be found in most shops that handle knives, and in most parts of the world. They are both inexpensive and reliable, using good quality materials, and solid construction. Because of this they have earned a reputation as good working tools, and are rather common. Considering I use my pocket knives for utility first, I like a knife I can use hard, so I’ve always like Spyderco products, especially the FRN handled Delica and Endura.
Despite the fact that my pocket knives are for the most part work tools, I always choose them with self defense being foremost on my mind. As a knife-maker and designer, specializing in tactical and defense styles, I know a lot about what is needed for a good defense knife, and my brain is usually tracking on that path anyway. I use that knowledge to pick my knives, and while I am rather picky, I still turn my eye to Spyderco Endura and Delica. Not my first choice, that is an Emerson Commander (and will have a part to play in this article yet), but they are my back-up folders, and are wonderful defense/utility folders for those on a budget. There are a few things that can be done to make them better for their role as a defense tool however:
The “Wave”:
Ernest Emerson developed one of the most important advances in folding fighting cutlery of the 20th century, a small catch on the back of the folder blade called the Wave. The Wave (which is trademarked and patented) catches the lip of the pocket when the knife is drawn, and opens the blade as the knife comes out of the pocket. With a little practice this mechanism is foolproof. This enables a knife equipped with a Wave to be opened faster than any other folding knife, even a switchblade. All other knives have to be drawn from the pocket, and then opened, while a Waved knife opens as it is drawn. This also removes the need for fine motor skills to work the one-hand opener on the knife. Fine motor skills go away under high stress, high adrenaline situations (like fights), so depending on them, or being forced to by your gear, is a mistake. The Wave is the very best opening mechanism, in my opinion, because of these qualities. The Emerson Commander I possess and use for my EDC is Wave equipped, because of this I am reluctant to purchase a knife that is not Waved, or that cannot be Waved It is also because of this, that I started on my series of Spyderco modifications.
I got three used Spyderco folders, one Delica and two Enduras, at a gun show for about $40. None of them had clips, but the Delica was the new style, where the missing clip could be replaced, and one of the Enduras had enough of the old molded clip left, that I could make it into a pocket stud, to catch and hold on the lip of my pocket. The third, which had no clip left at all, and a bit of a bent tip, I decided to turn into a trainer. Since I was going to be grinding most of it away to make a trainer anyhow, I decided I would experiment and add a Wave, so that if I screwed up, there was no harm done. I’d been doing some sketching and random note making in one of my notebooks about these folders, and their tactical applications, and a Waved Delica had ended up being sketched, so I guess that’s why I had it on my brain..
As it turned out, it was pretty easy to do, so I went ahead and did the two I planned to carry in the same fashion. I did the initial mod like this: I took my hacksaw with the carbide blade (the kind that’s like the thick wire, with carbide coating) and used it to make the initial cut for the Wave. Then I used my Dremel to lower and smooth the area in front of the cut, leading into the cut, so the lip of the pocket was guided in smoothly, to reduce the possibility of a partial, or zero, opening. Then I used sand paper to smooth it all up. Doing it this way retained the integrity of the Hole opener, which is one of the best “stress reaction able” thumb openers around because it’s big and easy to hit.
When I was done I
discovered something else nice about a Spyderco with a Wave, especially the
smaller Delica. It can be made to work like the Kershaw Talon, AKA the “Southern Comfort” in that it can be
drawn, Waving it, into a Pikal (Edge In) grip very easily. Both blades are very
nice for Pikal, especially the Delica. Not as good as a Talon, or similar
shaped blade with a handle that is shaped for a Pikal grip, either on accident
or purposefully, but they definitely do work. The SoCo draw stroke as shown by
SouthNarc with a SoCo can be seen here: http://www.donrearic.com/images/snarcdraw2.jpg.
The draw-stroke I was working for either of the Spydercos was the same. In the course of working this draw stroke and with some explanation from SouthNarc himself I actually came to realize that there is a better way to “Wave” a Spyderco that is both more fool-proof to use, and faster into Pikal than the original notch cut wave. Because of the small nature of the notch it catches the best at the rear of the pocket, meaning that the draw stroke moves backwards, putting your hand behind you. This slows you down and opens you up compared to the SoCo draw, which brings the knife out in front of you, closer to being “on point” with the target. So I took my Wave modification one step further, and removed a chunk of material in front of the “SpyderHole”, opening it up to serve as one giant wave. The large wave is more reliable and allows it to be “Waved” against any part of the pocket lip, not just the back seam. This makes it faster to wave draw, pulling straight up, and into Pikal. It is also more reliable this way. The way I did this was actually to use my 4x36” Delta sander to grind away the metal. I would grind until the steel got warm (not hot) and then dip it in water to cool it, and then grind again. This actually went pretty fast, and I seem to have succeeded, as I cannot notice any loss of temper in the blade. This could also be done with a Dremel tool, for those who do not have access to a belt sander. Just take it slow and be sure to keep the blade cool, otherwise you risk damaging the temper.
The lowered back of the live blade, and smooth lines leading to the “Ghetto Wave” make it very natural to draw, without any hang-ups or problems. Some may worry that because of the amount of material removed the blade would then be weakened, and could break, but I do not share their concerns. First, knives aren’t pry-bars, especially not defensive knives, and self defense isn’t going to snap a blade like that. Second, I took the trainer and locked the blade in the vice then applied side to side pressure, like I was using it to pry with and came to the conclusion that the FRN handle would break at the pivot/tang of the blade, long before the steel itself ever snapped.
The Boye Detent:
The next modification came about as the effect of a realization of a potential
problem. The Endura and Delica are lock-backs, and while the more recent
Spyderco Lock Backs have had a “Boye
Detent”, a small concave notch in the back of the lock bar,
to keep it from being accidentally depressed, none of the older ones I bought
had this. Because of this in Pikal the fingers of the hand were right over the
lock bar, and in a tight grip pushed down on it enough to make releasing it a
problem. In a convulsive grip, under stress, un-able to adjust the hand around
the lock bar, this could be a big problem. So, I took my Dremel tool with
sanding drum and installed a detent like the ones Spyderco currently puts on.
Problem solved. The only caution is to go slow and not let the metal get too hot, because if the lock-bar gets to hot, heat will transfer to the pins, and will melt the plastic.
The finished knives I was very happy with, and began to carry immediately. In
several months of carry now, there have been no problems at all with the locks,
or with the reliability of the first generation, or second generation, “Ghetto
Wave”. The G-Wave may look aggressive but it is actually smooth and well rounded
off, not liable to destroy pants pockets at a high rate of fraying.
Traction:
Live blade training with cutting targets led me to believe more security
for the hand, to keep it off the blade when stabbing, was needed. I considered
grinding a finger groove, but decided that the handle wasn’t well suited for
that. Instead I took the trainer and two files, round and triangular, and tried
two types of traction grooves. Although the larger, round, traction grooves
seemed like they would be best, after testing I decided that the smaller
triangular grooves, in a greater number, worked the best. Ten minutes of filing
later and all I had to do was blow the shavings out of the action with some
canned air. The result is an effective means of stopping the hand from sliding
onto the blade in a hard reverse grip thrust.
Training:
Of course, with every good weapons system there must be a means of training.
For folding knives having a trainer that actually folds and functions like your
carry folder is just about a necessity. The first knife I set out on modifying
was of course to be a trainer, and it is just as important as the other two.
To make the blade safe for training I used my Delta 4x36 belt sander and ground
the tip blunt, and ground back into the blade about ¼” back from where the edge
had been. This left a blunt, thick tip, and a blunt thick edge. Then I
carefully used my sander and then sand paper to completely De-Horn all the
sharp angles, especially on the blunted tip and edge, so everything was safely
rounded off and smooth. Once that was done, I applied a Krylon orange coating
to the handle to identify the knife as a dedicated trainer, so no mistakes
could be made, and the wrong one accidentally be pocketed.
Brand new a Delica or Endura shouldn’t cost more than $50 through your favorite online retailer. Spyderco makes trainers as well, but if you get a good deal on a well-used model I see no reason not to get it, turn it into a trainer and save some money. For under $100, give or take some hours in your garage/workshop, you can have a reliable knife and trainer set, that make the very best of stress reactions, gross muscle movement, and superior knife techniques, all while being good, solid, working knives. If you’ve spent $1200 on your custom 1911, and are short for new knives for a bit, you can set yourself up with a nice weapons retention set up with a new Spyderco folder that can be carried weak side (thanks to the reversible clip on new models), and trainer. $50 for a Ring Manufacturing
“Blue Gun” trainer, and you’re even better set up for your
training.
A talented Kydex maker (such as Robert Humelbaugh from Survival Sheath Systems,
www.survivalsheath.com ) could also make a
belt rig, or even a shoulder rig, to hold one of these knives in the open position.
Because of the differences in the “Ghetto Wave” and the Emerson Wave I am not
sure if a sheath could be made that would hold the closed folder, and activate
the Wave on the draw, but it would be worth talking over with Robert or
whomever you chose.
Knives such as the Spyderco Merlin/Harpy, SpyderHawk, Civilian, and Matriarch,
or Benchmade AFCK and Griptilian, or the Emerson HardWear line, to name a few,
can also be modified in these methods.
My Spydercos with these modifications are now essential, trusted, parts of my
every-day kit.