MALAWI
Visited in August 1991. Toured many areas of the country:
Extracts from the journal:
"Tuesday 6 August:(Mvuu Camp, Liwonde National Park) Up and out by 6.30am - drive around the park looking for big game (and birds as usual). Came across a large herd of elephant, baboons, bushbuck, waterbuck, impala. Also signs of a leopard kill of a Ground Hornbill. Back for "brunch", and a tale that one of the campers had been clawed by a leopard in the camp last night: it was apparently wandering around close to the tents, so only 100 metres from us. After brunch, drove out of the park, hoping for lion - but none appeared. Saw a large herd of elephant (28 counted). Came very close to them - one large female thinking it was too close, and warned us away with wide-spread ears.
Drove to Zomba (the former capital and the seat of government) and up to the hotel on the Zomba plateau - very smart: amazing views over Zomba and the plain down to the Mulanje mountain. Showered, drinks at the bar, dinner in the restaurant - what sort of adventure holiday is this?"
"Friday 16 August: After a rest day on Monday (on Mulanje mountain - 1800 metres), we didn't need "Plan B" - to go straight down (because of the weather) on Tuesday. Weather cleared slightly and we walked over to Chinzama hut that day. Beautiful clear morning: still some cloud about, but great mountain scenery. Arrived mid-morning, and an hour or so later the cloud rolled in again. Spent the afternoon walking and birding: also saw some klipspringers. Very wet and miserable when we got back.
Freezing cold night - not literally, but felt it - and up at 5.15am to walk down. Again cloudy and drizzly. Hard walk down - very slippery, particuarly in the rain forest. Several of the streams had risen to torrents over the past few days - we needed ropes to cross them safely. Changed into dry clothes at the bottom - long drive to Lake Malawi - arriving at 8pm at "Madzi Chawala" ("Sparkling Water") Cottage - very plush. Showered, fed and slept well.
Thursday: day of relaxing: beautiful day - private beach - swimming/snorkelling - Pied Kingfishers. Awakened to the sound of Fish Eagles calling and vervet monkeys on the roof: baboons around as well. The first day of what normal people would call a holiday."
"Thursday 22 August: (Nyika National Park) Went out for a drive about 4.00pm, and had some great views of a pair of bushbuck close to the road early on. Saw a leopard in the daylight - just before dusk (about 5.30pm): she just lay down in the grass while we watched her. Fabulous sight, and very rare apparently. After "sundowners" , drove back and found our leopard again: walked down the side of a hill towards us and crossed the road in front of the Landrover - undisturbed by thespotlight. Again she lay down by the road and only moved when we had to start the engine. Magic! Also plenty plenty warthog, a column of bush-pig. Almost ran over a porcupine - a big, shaggy, rambling beast - back near the chalets: nearly threw the group members off the top of the vehicle and out of their sleeping bags (- it was rather chilly). Quite a night!
Sundowners: drinks (normally bottles of beer in our case) to accompany the stunning African sunsets. (Click here to get back to where you were)
Spotlight Use of a powerful spotlight on night drives is essential: it is especially good for picking up animals through the twin reflection back from their eyes. (Click here to get back to where you were)
A lot of the time on the holiday was taken up with birdwatching. Here's a list of the birds I saw:
Last Updated on 30 October 1996 at 22:51:16
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