Air Conditioning Upgrade Procedure
Required Parts:
Adjustable Wrench
New Accumulator (R134a Compliant)
Low-End Valve w/ R134a type Fitting
Hose & Needle Valve for Refridgerant/Oil Cans
8 1/2 oz. Recharging Oil
2 - 3 lbs. R134a Refidgerant
Optional Parts:
New O-rings (My accumulator came with these)
RTV and/or Teflon Tape
2 oz. Leak Detector w/ Red Dye
Steps:
1. Empty old system
2. Remove the accumulator
3. Swap to new accumulator
4. Hook hoses/new fittings back up
5. Test seals
6. Charge new system
7. Chill in style
Step One - Empty Old R-12 System
R-12 is hazardous to the environment. Do not just drain the old system out into the air. If you should somehow happen to put on safety glasses and accidently slide a small screwdriver into your low-side valve stem, letting out all the old R-12 and mineral oil remember this...accidents do happen. Be careful with the R-12, as it can cause frostbite, plus the old refridgerant and moneral oil don't smell all that good either!
Step 2 - Remove the Accumulator
There are 2 steel hoses and an electrical connection to the accumulator. They come off easily enough with an adjustable wrench. Be very careful when removing the hose with the plastic nut as well as the electrical connector, as the plastic becomes brittle with age. The one on the steel hose turned pretty smoothly, but I ground up the electrical connection one (A/C cluth turn-on valve) and had to replace it. After those 3 things are disconnected, loosen the bolts that hold in the retainer for the accumulator and carefully remove it.
Step 3 - Swap to new accumulator
A new accumulator for my Monte ran me a little less than $40. It looks exactly the same as the old one, but I'd rather not spend $200 repeatedly filling up a bad system like we did with the old K-car. Don't need it blowing up or anything either. With everything still apart, now is a good time to examine all your fittings and hoses before you go on and waste those cans of oil/134a. O-rings are cheap and hopefully you wont have any cracks in your fittings or hoses. Mine were all in great shape, even the O-rings were still nice and flexible.
Step 4 - Hook hoses/new fittings back up
Installation is the reverse of the removal. I used RTV and teflon tape on all the threads to ensure a tight seal. Screw the low-end fitting over the right hand valve of the accumulator. Feels almost too easy doesn't it?
Step 5 - Test seals
Now to check for leaks. First I ran through my can of A/C oil to lube up all my O-rings. Turn the engine on and set the A/C to full blast. Feel that hot air coming out because hopefully it's the last time! Hook your charging hose up to the new 134a fitting. Screw in your can of oil, close and open the valve, and shake it until it's empty. I let this work itself through for a minute or two. If you dont see any oil shooting out, you're almost done. If you want to double check for leaks, put a can of leak detector with red dye in just as you did the oil. If you don't see any red leaking out, you're in good shape.
Step 6 - Charge new system
All right, no leaks! Time to pump out some cold! Run your 2 lbs of R134a through as you did with the oil/leak detector. After the first one, your clutch should engage, at least on and off. It is ok if it doesn't stay on right now. If after the second can it still does not constantly run, that little electrical connector thing I told you not to break, may not be properly adjusted. Unplug it from the fan assembly and there is a screw valve between the 2 prongs. Tighten that up just enough to make the system come on. If it doesn't go on at all after 2 can and checking the valve, stick a wire into the 2 holes for the prongs to close the system. If it doesn't immediately spin the clutch, your switch is bad. It runs for about $13.
Step 7 - Chill in style
Reach around and put your hand in front of one of your dash vents. Brrr! Windows are great 90% of the time but tell me you dont love your A/C when your stuck in traffic on a 100 degree day! Drop the hood and take a chilly cruise, Monte Carlo style. With 2 lbs of 134 in my system, My vents are pumping out air in the mid-40's. I want to try this Max-Cool stuff I found now. It's a 134a addative that is supposed to boost the power of the 134. Running A/C on full blast makes me appreciate the V-8 in yet another way. You can definetly feel a drop in performance and mpg, but it can definetly be worth it during those scorchers.
Time Involved: 30 minutes - 1 hour
Difficulty: Only skill needed - Ability to turn a wrench :)
Approx. Cost: $70