From: [email protected] (Simon Favre)
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 96 11:42:46 PDT
Subject: Re: The Steck brake MC replacement method
The only reservation I have with this technique is the thought of
pushing cruddy old brake fluid from the caliper back up the line into
the new MC. Otherwise, it does sound brilliant. Maybe the thing to do
would be to bleed the old crud out of the calipers first, then replace
the MC, then use the magic of pushing the pads out to backfill the MC.
I'll definitely try this next time around.
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From: Jim Steck <[email protected]>
Date: 09 Apr 96 23:18:12 EDT
Subject: MC replacement
>Does anybody have any tips to ease the master cylinder installation process?
>Can I just unbolt the old one, bolt in the new one, and bleed away? Seems
>too simple, but that's what my ancient shop manual says.
A little trick that will make bleeding easier . . . bolt the master cylinder
in
and hook up the brake lines but don't fill the reservoir yet. Now remove a
front and a rear wheel and push the pads back into the calipers until you
begin
filling the reservoirs. You need to do this on both ends of the car (to
bleed
both ends of the master cylinder). Now fill the reservoirs, pump up the
pedal
and check the brakes.
If you're lucky, the pedal will be firm (no air in the system). You should
still bleed the brakes at all the calipers to flush the old fluid from the
system.
- -Jim Steck
AutoComponenti
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From: [email protected]
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 1996 06:32:10 +0000
Subject: Re: Making Alfa Brake Lines
Mike Grace had written:
> I vaguely remember hearing that Alfas use some fancy double flare or
> something which probably requires a special tool that I will only need this
> once (I hope). Can anyone recommend someone who I should see about
> building these lines, or is the special tool not really so special (< $100)
> that I should just go buy one and do it myself?
Mike: I don't believe Alfa does anything unique with their brake
lines - they are the standard "double flared" system used on most
cars from that era. You DO need a special tool to make double flares
- - your $3.95 copper tubing flaring tool won't do. I rented a double
flaring tool a few years back from a traditional automotive parts
supplier in N. Calif. (By "traditional", I mean one with girlie
calendars on the walls - not a Grand Auto). The rental charge was
pretty nominal - like $10 for the weekend.
What I did was to buy pre-made, metric brake lines that were longer
than what I needed, and used the flaring tool to re-flare one end
after I had cut these to the appropriate length. Note that these
double flares are not easy to get right - another advantage of buying
lines longer than what you need, is that you have material to
practice on. Of course, buying pre-made lines also provides a source
for the threaded fittings.
I was just making a couple of lines (to replace rusted ones on my
Giulia). If I were doing an entire car, I might try to find a
professional fabricator. Unless your old ones are rusted, using
compressed air to expel the "junk" would definitely be a simpler
solution.
Good Luck - Jay Mackro
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From: [email protected] (Simon Favre)
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 96 10:48:55 PST
Subject: Re: noisy metallics
Carl E. Picciotto <[email protected]> scribbled:
>Anybody have any luck reducing metallic brake-pad squeal by applying
>grease to the pad's backing plates, and to the pins? My brakes are
>driving me crazy with the noise. How long does the grease hang
>around?
Actually, plain anti-sieze compound works pretty good. You know, the
silvery stuff you put on spark plugs and lug nuts? I was surprised by
this. The trick is not getting any on the front face, but as the old
Bryllcream ads said, "A little dab'll do ya." The stuff seems to stay
put pretty good. You don't want to use real grease, as it will drip,
and may foul the pads. The anti-sieze forms a soft paste that clings
to the surface and gives the caliper something soft to squeeze against
the hard metal surface in back of the pad. This "trick" came straight
out of the shop manual for the wife's Acura Legend. Works for me.
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