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| Venice: Venice 1 | Venice 2 | Venice 3 | Venice Map | Getting Around in Venice link schedule of rate and boat services 1 Travel & Leisure: Venice TI: Tourist information offices are at the train station (open 8:00- 19:00) and near St. Mark's Square (go to the lagoon, turn right, walk about 150 yards, and you'll run into it, open maybe 9:40 15:20, closed Sunday, tel. 522-6356). |
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| Murano: Don't miss the Museo Vetrario, or Glass Museum, which is located in the Palazzo Giustinian near the island's center. The museum holds samples of glass from Egyptian times through the present day, and the displays show how the art and manufacture of glass developed over the centuries. |
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| While you're on Murano, take time to visit the Church of Santa Maria e San Donato, shown at right. This ancient church is deceptively simple in outward appearance. Its richly decorated interior has a marble-and-mosaic floor that was laid in 1140. The church is almost next door to the museum on the Canale di San Donato. ----------- Eat: Try "seppie in neri," squid cooked in its own ink. Believe them, and try it. It's delicious, whether as a pasta, a risotto, or a main dish. The first time I had this was at the Ristorante Al Galeon, on the Via Garibaldi. The Locanda Montin is a restraurant mentioned in most guidebooks. Its food is outstanding, service friendly and courteous, and the ambiance is wonderful, whether eating in the outside garden or in the restaurant itself. It's renowned for its fish. It's in the Dorsoduro district, not far from the Accademia. If you're a tourist, you have to learn Venice's schedule for eating, or you'll be frustrated. Breakfast is nothing much: you may get nothing but coffee and packaged bread products. Lunch starts around noon, and by two the restaurants are almost all closed. You can't get dinner till about seven. But then you can stretch that dinner for two or three hours, appetizers first, then pasta, then an entree, then dessert and coffee. Awaiting the first course of our progressive-Venetian-pub-crawl dinner. These residential back streets hide plenty of pubs with plenty of interesting toothpick munchies. They don't stay open very late, so start out by about 7 o'clock. With the crew, Anne and I are kicking off the pub crawl splitting pizzas on the square at Campo Santa Maria di Formosa. At the pizzeria ask for Gigi's Bar, one block away. Wander the neighborhood for a few more bars...and see how those stone faces take on new shadows in the night. Try the "chiquetas" under glass.. (that's hors d'oeuvres to us); try fried mozzarella cheese, calamari, artichoke hearts and anything ugly on a toothpick. Drink the house wine. Finish with gelato by the canal on the other side of Campo di Formosa. A tasty nightcap to our final Venetian evening. |
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