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22 Dec 2002: Hanga Roa, Rapa Nui (Easter Island)

"Iorana Korua from Rapa Nui" = Or in other words... Hello everyone from Easter Island!!

It's been ages since we last did an update, unfortunately we have been doing so much something had to go and that was email.

Not that we want to make you sick, but since seeing the Moreno Glacier we have in short...

1. been to Ushuaia - Fin del Mundo (originally considered the 'End of the World
2. seen Iguazu Falls (breathtaking) - flew from Ushuaia otherwise a 5 day journey (sorry Marcus we copped it)
3. Buenos Aires - went to the Opera, learnt the Tango, did serious shopping (haircut and manicure - for me!), went sightseeing - lots to see
4. Puerto Madryn - whale watching, dolphins, elephant seals, sealions, penguins
5. Welsh Patagonia - had tea and cakes in a Tea House in Gaiman - Princess Di went to it in 1995! It even started raining for us - felt quite homesick for Swansea!
6. Mendoza - fireworks display & best meal in Argentina - 'Eat As Much As You Like' for 3 euros each. Rach wold have loved - included chinese, steaks, seafood, desserts, salads - even snails! -Too much food.
7. Back to Samtiago - coz it's too complicated we're not sending any xmas prezzies home (if that's a shock to anyone -SORRY!), instead we bought a load of toys and sweets for poor Chilean children. Left it at a children's charity to distribute.
8. Arrived at Easter Island - where we want to live for 3 months!

To achieve all this involved many overnight and a couple of 24 hour bus journeys so it was tougher than you imagine - not all plain sailing.

Okay now just the highlights or comic moments...

Ushuaia - gorgeous place surrounded by the end of the Andes mountain range. Our flight there was in a small 20 seater jet - we like to think Executive. Only 1 hour, coz it was small the luggage allowance was 10kg! As you can imagine I am carrying 3 times that (and Scott twice). So we stuffed as much as we could into our hand luggage - anything over was 3 USD per kilo. We were next in line to check in desk when there was a power cut. We were shitting ourselves then (everything is computerised visions of crashing into Andes), but the weighing scales had reset themselves - so we didn't have to pay!! (Thanks Uncle Richard)

Iguazu Falls - unbelievable. Roaring sound of water - huge, so impressive. (See photos). 3 miles wide - went in a speedboat underneath and got drenched. It was like the best water ride ever. Spent the day there and then caught 24 hour bus to Buenos Aires.

Buenos Aires - fantastic shopping. Went to antique market Marcus recommended. Didn't buy anything there. As an idea of prices - there was a chandelier for 8000 USD and a candelabra 600 USD - just wasn't in our taste. Instead got a little Xmas Tree and lights, new glasses and shoes for me, pants for Scott. Recoleta Cemetry - lots of little streets like an old part of Buenos, huge mausoleums and where Evita is buried - can't get in to see her though. Saw a Tango Orchestra - excellent - best acoustics Colon Theatre in world, saw Harry Potter (in cinema), saw Rigoletti opera at Colon again. 4 days then 24 hour bus to Puerto Madryn.

Puerto Madryn - nightmare bus journey. Driver crashed bus at a bus terminal at midnight, cracked the fuel tank so pertol was leaking everywhere - had to wait 4 hours for another bus to arrive. I asked to retrieve our bags and they were like "no it's not a problem we'll transfer everything to the opther bus when it arrives" and I'm thinking...big fuel leak, people smoking - BOOM. After 2 hours they cleaned it up, which was nice. So got to see all the animals listed above most excellent. National Geographic Unplugged. Scott thinks I have a strange obsession with animal mating habits. I keep trying to explain that I can't imagine how they cope. Southern Right Whales - the female mates with a group of 5 males! (Not bad). Elephant Seals have a harem of 30 females and fight everyday to keep them. (Good God). Penguins are monogamous, but I can't figure out how they recognise their partner they all look the same. So I filmed a couple of them mating - so what? It's nature.

Easter Island - Wow what can I say. Beautiful blue skies, waves crashing against the beach, hot sunny days, nice people, not many tourists surprisingly, huge Moais dotted about the island. Paradise Found. Hired a car and Scott drove us to the furthest parts of the island (25km away). Took some great photos of the quarry where the Moais were sculpted and then where they were brought to. Interestingly only the "Seven Moai" look out to sea, the others represented leaders of various tribes and were set inwards to the island so that their spirit would reenergise the land and people. Trouble is being on the most remote inhabited place in the world is we still have a money problem. The one ATM on the island only recognises Mastercard, Cirrus and Maestro. We have Visa, Delta and Switch on 9 cards and cannot use them. So souvenir shopping has had to be minimised.

Yesterday decided to venture in for a swim. Thought I looked the part with my Ann Summers bikini, speedo nose clip and goggles. But the water was only 10 cm deep for ages and lots of rocks underneath. Then there was a rip pulling us to the left. So my nose clip came off, water got in my goggles a wave crashed over me I couldn't swim anywhere - Scott was getting worried. Then my bikini top undone itself! So I composed myself as quick as I could. There were some body boarders on the beach watching us (they were about 10 years old) so I thought if they have to rescue me that's my credibility gone. Swam like hell for 10 minutes and dragged myself back to shore - like all beached whales do. Scott was just short of saying "Harpoon it!".

Some messages from our younger readers:
Sherona Kermath = "I wish you would come back and I love you both very much and I do hope you get me an icecream on the way back and I hope you get a presant for Chloe and me!I hope you are not far away and i really miss you and come back soon!!!Love you always have a great time love Sherona, I love you very much Goodbye!"xxxxxxxx

Chloe Carney = "I hope you have a great time with Scott and we all miss you and we love you and you come back soon and all the houses have been finished on your road(???)Me and Sherona love you!"

We also have a fantastic drawing of Santa coloured in by Alanna Eager that we will try and upload to the website. Merry Crimbo to all the little people we love!!

Off to Tahiti now for Christmas will try and send another email from there.
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4 Dec 2002: Puerto Natales, Chile

'Allo 'Allo 'Allo

When we last left you we were in Chile....

...from there we bussed it to San Martin de los Andes in Argentina. We had heard this was a cheaper way of travelling to see Patagonia and the Lake District. We went to a beautiful place - an apartment for 4 people for 15 euros per night! It was like a log wooden cabin with the bedroom on a mezzanine level = beautiful. Nothing like the dingy hostels we have been in before. San Martin was like something from the Swiss Alps (we imagine - not having been there). In June and July it is great for skiiing. At the moment it is just great for the homemade chocolate shops - girls stop drooling. The hostel owner George was very funny drove us to an Irish pub one night! Think he saw the longing in Scott's eyes! One day we hired bikes - I only went along with it coz I thought we were getting tandems, but then the boys saw the bikes with "full suspension" and I ended up having to push me own pedals. We were with the couple from Birmingham, Paul and Sarita, that we met in Chile (stayed with them for about 2 weeks). He is very funny and very witty - like Jim Bonner. Bought some santa hats - mine has heidi plaits - have to get into the spririt of things! Got some 4 Paul and Sarita too to remember us by! Other than that went for a nice walk and ate loads (chocolate for me, steak for Scott) and the boys drank beer (50p for a litre).

Moved on to Bariloche- there were gorgeous St Bernard dogs there (on display for the tourists) - even had the little barrels round their necks. Scott's 27th birthday was here and we were in a nice place with a phone so he got a nice long call from mum and dad siery. He had some lovely cards from home that we brought with us. Plus a funky email from John and Shirley. "Thanks to everyone who gave me money - Scott". I got him a t-shirt, he already got some walking shoes, balloons, big chocolate birthday cake - the usual! Spoilt! Went out for a Mexican for dinner and stuffed ourselves. Went on a trip to see a nice lake, waterfall and a tree that is 1500 years old - I swear it didn't look a day over 20! Coz we were heading down south went and did a bit of shopping. Decided nothing for it have to get the thermal underwear. Very fetching - they even have a hole in the front for easy peeing (not sure what I need that for). Unfortunately they are made by "Bender" - Paul suggested that we should probably be wearing them with the hole to the back in that case!

From here made a momentous journey down south to El Calafate which took 2 days! Got stuck in a town called Comodoro for 14 hours on the way - nothing to do. From El Calafate went to see the Moreno Glacier - WOW! It is a moving icefield 60metres high, 3km wide, 15km long and blue ice! While we were there large pieces of ice fell off with a thunderous crash. We have the photos of Peru and Bolivia up on the website but when we get the photos of these up it'll blow you away! The next day we went to the Fitz Roy mountain range - again wow! Huge mountain - walked up to get a good look at it but didn't have time to do any treks coz we are anxious that we are running out of time. Were going to go trekking in Torres del Paine in Chile - bussed back into Chile for it and found it was too dear and cold so have come on another bus all the way down to the "End of the Earth". It is cold, grey and drizzly here so we are feeling right at home (thank god for the bender pants!). Flying up to Buenos Aires Thursday and then on to Iguazu Falls (border with Brazil). All the travellers we have met said this blew them away. Note we have splashed out on flights! Otherwise it would take us 4 days approx by bus. As you can see have already done alot of bus travel so thought nope, not enough time.

When you next hear from us we'll be in Buenos Aires - temp there is 35 degrees and rising. Bye bye bender pants. Out come the bikinis (yes Scott has one too!).
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20 Nov 2002: Pucon, Chile

Thanks everyone - Have had some great messages and plenty of jokes to read through over the past few days. Have arrived in Chile now and went straight to the beach - weather was over 30 degrees! But sometimes it was too breezy to sit out - so we just chilled out for a bit. Met a really lovely couple also travelling for a year and have clung to them now and their itinerary.

Went to Santiago - really nice city not as big as I had imagined and nice to be back at sea level - although we haven't been any more active! After the chaos of Peru and Bolivia Chile is a refreshingly organised change. It is a little more expensive but really nice and the people are so friendly. Just the other day this guy from Chile walking his dog, stopped to ask us where we were from - it turns out he has been to England and bought his dog as a puppy there - she is called Lady Di!

We have sent some more postcards so all those that have requested them hopefully they should be with you by Christmas if not soon after.

Haven't got too much to say sending this so that we can send some of our favourite photos. There are probably too many on the website to view in one sitting.

Also yesterday I had a funny turn - walking along the street I felt faint said to Scott I feel dizzy - so he told me to stop. Then I passed out with a pain in my head. Somebody called an ambulance so I went to the hospital very nearby. Scott stayed with me and looked after me, but I had trouble remembering what had happened and my age, etc.. Unfortunately I remember both now! So they have done a couple of tests - but we think it was the anti malarial tablets - we took one yesterday morning and they have been known to produce funny effects on people. Scott was worried though - I started turning blue! All fine today.

Tomorrow we go to Argentina for a few weeks - hoping to learn the tango and go to iguazu falls. Then we go back to Santiago to get our flight out to Easter Island on the 18th Dec.
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12 Nov 2002: La Serena, Chile

Well we flew into Bolivia and flew quickly out again. Didn't go to the jungle coz we heard that rainy season had already started which means lots of mozzies and lots of delays. From La Paz to Ruurenabaque is 17 hours, so there and back, plus 5 day tour - doesn't allow any time for delays. So we did the following...

Copacabana, Bolivia (don't start singing Karl!) Stayed for a couple of nights coz we were told it was quite a chilled out place. It was dead not sure if that counts. Pretty boring not sure if we were that at the right time of year or not. Places were shut a couple of restaurants weren't doing food! We went on a tour here to one of the Bolivian islands of Isla del Sol = meant to be the birthplace of the Incas. The tour was packed 60 people on the boat for 2 hours. Got there and the ruins were okay but after Machu Picchu ... Had a nice walk to the other side of the island for about 3 and a half hours, stopped for lunch. Lunch was spagetti bolognese - this took 1 hour and a half to make and she tried to overcharge us for it! We paid what we thought was enough and we then had to run down the steps to the boat launch to go back. Other people have enjoyed this trip but this was probably the worst tour we have been on. It was cheap, so again - altogether now "you get what you pay for!"

La Paz, Bolivia
Went to La Paz only a few hours away. Built into a canyon so pretty amazing drive into it. Arrived on another religious festival weekend so everything was closed. All Saints Day lasted all weekend. Scott got himself some proper walking shoes for 50 dollars, Nike - his birthday prezzie early. Went and had the McDonald's fix. I had to sit in disgust watching Scott stuffing himself with a Big Mac (I nibbled mine from the other side of the table!). That was one of the most expensive meals we have had and it was still cheaper than Dublin! Finished with an ice cream - then rolled back to the hostel for a siesta. Scott dosed off then laughed himself awake again. I said "what are you laughing at honey?", He said "Coz you're laughing"!? I said "No I'm not" and he got a bit bristly then fell asleep. I was in stitches! Did lots of walking around ate at a mega cheap Chinese. Next day went to the zoo and Moon Valley - where a dog was our guide. Was very attached to Scott and followed us as far as the zoo. (Growled at me twice though). People thought he belonged to us! Zoo was good fun saw all the animals we would have seen in the jungle. Photos on the web now and in order - sorry mum they were alll over the shop before. Went for a nice Lebonese meal with some Ozzie friends - very tasty. Went to Salar de Uyuni - took us 10 hours to get there and then we went straight on the tour. 4 wheel drive "jeep" - no air conditioning, unless you call electric windows that! Pretty bumpy, we met up with the swiss couple again, a kiwi gal and a german couple. All of them were really nice and a good laugh. The scenery was amazing - photos to go up shortly - check out the Bolivia folder. We went up as far as 5000 metres above sea level. Bought a llama made of salt much to Scott's disgust. After 4 days of travel seeing beautiful lakes and flamingoes and general unwashedness we arrived in Chile and had showers again!

San Pedro de Atacama to La Serena, Chile Hippy town on the border very nice, but no bank / ATM machine = problem - so we decided to head straight for beaches at long last and got on a 16 hour bus journey to La Serena on the coast. At sea level again. Really nice beach a bit windy the first day, yesterday was very breezy so we didn't go and today is totally overcast - typical. Went to see "One Hour Photo" with Robin Williams at the movie - only 4 of us in the whole place so seating was a problem. Very good - well I enjoyed it but could have waited for it on video.

We are staying in Chile for a couple of weeks, but have been told to get into Argentina as soon as possible by everyone. So we are hoping to get there for a couple of weeks.

Unfortunately have had the worst news we could have expected while travelling. My Uncle Richard (mum's brother) died yesterday 11 November. He is being buried next Monday in Luton. He had heart problems for many years but always pulled through so it is still a total shock to everyone. He was agreat friend to my mum and to all of us. We had sent him a postcard coz I knew he enjoyed hearing of the places we were going, and was telling mum all about them on the map, but he wouldn't have got it yet. As Sue says I am sure he is still following us on our journey. We have lit him some candles and said some prayers, but I know his soul is at rest. I'm so glad I got a chance to see him again at the leaving party.

Sorry to end on such a sombre note. Love you all.
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31 Oct 2002: Puno, Peru

This is the last update coz we are heading into Bolivia tomorrow.

Our Belgian gals have left us and gone back home. It was very sad coz we were travelling with them since we arrived in Peru and they were so friendly. Miss you both Jo and Griet! On their last night there was a fireworks spectacular - they said it was coz they were leaving but....there seems to be a whole month of fiestas celebrating Senor de los Milagros - basically Jesus doing miracles! A bit like Sacred Heart of Jesus is Mary?! Anyway we were watching this fireworks display the other night and you would have pissed yourself laughing - we did! It was so scary.

Basically the locals had built these structures that were between 10 - 30 ft high and wrapped around the bamboo frame were loads of fireworks - catherine wheels the lot. Sounds lovely - well yes it was. Apart from the fact that they had the display in front of the Cathedral and no barrier to keep people back. You'd think people wouldn't need telling that fireworks were dangerous, but they were all there - women, children - the brass band - less than 1 metre away. Some were getting their photos taken while the fireworks were flaming above their heads. Of course coz it wasn't professional quite a few stray fireworks went straight into the crowd or some of the bigger rockets didn't go up high enough so all the stuff was exploding above their heads. People scattered everywhere. The kids went around collecting the shrapnel like souvenirs! Incredible. I tell you it was a "miracle" no one got hurt. Obviously they couldn't do this kind of event on any other saintly occasion thre miracles wouldn't happen without the main man there. And as James the Ozzie guy said the band kept playing just like on Titanic when the ship was going down! We were scoring the displays ourselves - we think it was a competition - more marks for extreme danger to the crowds.

Oh in case you are wondering where we were - sitting safely on a balcony overlooking the plaza - Scott et al drinking beers. We were going to get the camcorder it was much better than tv and could have gone in for one of those video Beadles About thingamys.

We have been busy the past few days continuing with the tourist thing. Went to Lake Titicaca highest navigable lake in the world. If you're wondering what in the hell that means well... obviously there are lakes that are much higher than 3800m, but could you ride speedboats on it? Let's just say it is huge - it looked like an ocean!

Anyway there are people who live there on Floating Islands made of reeds found in the Lake. Once they rot they place more reeds on top! Now this despite the fact that it was very touristy was well woth a visit. The lake is 650 metres deep in places, but they build the reed villages on shallow depths between 5 - 6 metres deep. Walking on it was like walking on a water bed. The "Floating Islands" last up to 20 years. They even make boats and houses out of the reeds.

From there we went to Amantani - a real island - where traditions are meant to be almost the same since before the Incas. Yeah right! It was like Buncrana 50 years ago (where my Dad is from). They even had electricity. They still dress traditionally but I am sure that the Incas didn't play pan pipes to visitors walking up the mountain! Call me cynical! We stayed with a family - I thought it would be a great way to learn customs etc. But had to eat alone and barely saw them! Conversations were like Questions and Answers I must have been like the Spanish Inquisition. Scott went to play football with the locals - show them how it's done. He was done in when he was finished! The football pitch was at 4000 metres. I was videoing him and the little kids couldn't believe the little tv - so I filmed them and they wanted me to play it back over and over. They were even waving back at themselves on the screen. Walked up to highest point of the island and saw a gorgeous sunset. Then went to a party wearing some of the traditional clothes. The band sang songs that lasted 10 minutes! Knackered again.

Today had "breakfast" - chinese chicken balls - without the chicken and the sweet and sour sauce. Yep just fried dough. And fried egg rolls. Scott was delighted as you can imagine. That Big Mac in Bolivia is getting nearer every day! Vegetable soup is beginning to get a bit boring too. Went to another Island called Taquile - again tourist driven. It was interesting that the kids there learn to knit from about 6 or 7. The men learn to knit big woollen pointy hats. And apparently in times past to choose the leaders they would get them to fetch water in their hats and bring it back to the village. The ones who lost the least amount of water (ie tight knitters!) were considered good leaders. I wonder how Tony Blair and Ian Duncan Smith would fare in a similar competition! On this island there had been a problem with interbreeding. This was when they only married islanders - now this has changed. There was a guy that went past and our guide said he had a genetic deformity - I was going to ask what it was but then he carried on talking. About 5 mins later I saw the guy and he couldn't walk! His legs were like they had polio. I thought this was amazing I thought he might have a big nose or different coloured eyes. So don't go marrying your brothers, especially if you're a boy!

We had lunch - vegetable soup and fish for me. Then had to walk down to the port. My knee seems to be playing me up since the Inca Trail so Scott suggested I put on the support. As I tugged it over my knee he said it was actually an elbow support! So my elbow feels fine but my knee still kills. He thinks the only thing for it is to shoot me - that's what they do with mares when they go lame. I don't know maybe a bit harsh? He's still my stallion!

Anyway... what else can we bore you with. Quick impressions of Peru....

...markets - amazing - you see all sorts of junk here. One couple saw a cow's head with all the skin off! Stalls can be dedicated to shoe polish or car engine parts. I can't imagine having as much fun in the market in Luton's Arndale Centre.

.....no one has any change even for 10 soles, so they go off to other shops or stall holders to borrow or change the money! I mean everywhere - even in nice restaurants. Even when they have change!

....environment - bizarre. They have the eco friendly tourism, plus glass bottles for recycling - beer, coke, etc. Then you drive through the countryside and see tonnes of rubbish tipped down the side of a mountain. People pee anywhere. Small hazard.

......women - work as hard or harder than men. We have seen women upwards of 60 carrying firewood, stones for building, rowing boats with passengers, carrying kids on their back. Even when they are just walking along they are spinning wool off a spindle or knitting.

....weather - gorgeous and sunny during the days here and thunderstorms at night. Lima - was constantly grey skies. Coastline was a desert - so weird opposite all the water of the sea. Puno and Cusco are very mountainous so weather can change within hours (not minutes like Ireland). Thunderstorms don't know what they are doing. We have been outside and heard really loud thunder above but - NO LIGHTNING. Other times we have seen loads of flashes of lightning and heard NO THUNDER! Sometimes we get both and very little rain.

In all loved Peru - lots of time to think and reflect how lucky we are.
-------------------------------------------------- 25 Oct 2002: Machu Picchu, Peru

Quick synopsis of the last 4 days = Trek to Machu Picchu in the Andes...

Day 1 = Tired, Day 2 = Knackered, Day 3 = Exhausted, Day 4 = Just call the Undertakers!

Yes - we did the trek of all treks to the Sacred Inca Places Machu Picchu (Old Mountain). Very well preserved reamins of an Inca built structure dating back 400 years. Only re-found about 90 years ago and has steadily grown in tourist numbers every year.

We had a choice - you could do the cop out fat American person version and go on the train and bus to Machu Picchu. Or the most difficult possible trek camping and hiking to heights of 4200metres above sea level. In total we went 56km in 4 days! We were a group of 16 very diverse people. We went with the lovely Belgian girls and Ozzie guy but the others were unknown to us. We quickly realised why some people renamed this the "Inca Trial" and not "Inca Trail" (not because of the walking either).

Our guide was a Peruvian 'Derek Murphy'. If anyone knows my cousin Derek they will understand immediately. For the others - he had big hair, slightly hippyish and was a very passionate talker! I could go through each of the other people in the group individually but that would take too much time. In sum I can understand why some couples split up from travelling and I hope that we won't be one of them!

In depth...... Day 1 = involved 2 hours waiting for bus to leave. 3 hour bumpy bus journey to start of "Camino Inca" (Inca Trail). Once there we had to carry all our stuff for the 4 days - Scott carried one large backpack and I had a small day sack the other stuff we left at the hotel. And so we walked 10 km to the campsite for that night. It was okay a little bit gruelling going up for Loz. But we made it. That night the guide told us that it would be best to amend the hike slightly so we had more time at Machu Picchu, we all agreed (woops!) and so began a very long few days.

Day 2 = awoke about 6am - had bloody porridge for breakfast! Disgusting I can't even describe that to you. Then at 7.30am we set off. Now let me explain that the 2nd day is the hardest day because it is when you have to climb 10km up to 4200m, so it is very steep. We had gone about 15 minutes when Scott suggested we get a porter - I reluctantly agreed. (okay I lied). This guy was in his 50s and practically ran with the large rucksack to the top. Stopping occasionally for us to catch up with him which was nice. I was carrying nothing and still was breathing like a geriatric uphill. Scott stuck with me and we took plenty of breathers and enjoyed the scenery, taking photos of the beautiful snow capped mountains in the distance etc. We managed to get to the top by 11.15am which meant it had taken us just 3hrs 45 mins. Our guide suggested a time of mid day was okay. We had lunch and then trekked on for another 9km (6km downhill). Now this was easy for me and hard on Scott's shoulders- so just for the last part I carried the heavier rucksack (our porter had ran back down the mountain by this stage). This is teamwork. If Scott had run to the top of the mountain like the others let's just say his shoulders might have been even worse. Arrived at camp in dusk and it rained solidly for a few hours - had some "dinner" and went to bed.

Now the guide had mentioned that each of the people that came to Machu Picchu came with their own ideas and motivations. On the 2nd day it all became clear...

- For some it was to get to Machu Picchu the fastest. - For others it was to get the best picture of Machu Picchu. - For us it was to learn about another people and enjoy and appreciate the scenery around us.

Everyone there had their foibles and I'm sure they noticed mine too.The rest (us 5) were all okay. I'm sure it was just the pressures of the trek etc, but at some points it did feel like we should be filmed for tv, big brother in the jungle or something like that.

Day 3 = Up at 5am, left after 6am and did 9km until lunchtime uphill and downhill until we reached a lodge. We were all hoping there would be rooms at the lodge but that wasn't to be. By this stage I'd like to add that I had tide marks of dirt by my ankles and knees. Plus we were like "itchy and scratchy". We both had mosquito bites and peeling sun burn - very attractive I know. Despite tonnes of medication my bites still hurt. After lunch we walked on to the Puerta del Sol (Sun Gate) where there is a great view from above of Machu Picchu. Took some photos and walked again. Beginning to get bored of walking now and it was especially difficult on the knees going down. So we had to keep walking on to our campsite which was 3km past and steeply downhill from the site. There was a very expensive bus alternative so we walked. Ouch ouch ouch. Got a tepid shower at the campsite - Scott had a hot one and then had "dinner" and went to bed. Most of the others had gone to the Hot Springs but that was another 30 minute walk away and we couldn't be arsked.

Day 4 = 4am wake up call and the long walk back up to Machu Picchu. This was hard but I found a new method of getting up steps. Breathe hard until almost hyperventilating then race up as many as possible collapse for a bit of a breather then do it again. This wasn't actually as difficult as taking it easy and taking my time as I had done on the other days and thought my heart was about to pop out.

FINALLY - Machu Picchu!!!! My God at last! We had a 2 hour guided tour and it was amazing. The stonework was so mathematically precise and smooth, still standing - only the rooves are missing. They understood movements of the sun and the moon and so some of the buildings were obervatories or temples to them (probably for sacrifice). I reckon that the Incas must have been organised by women coz everything was built so quickly it must have needed brilliant organisers. This theory is yet to be proved! There is a track you can walk up to get (another) great picture of Machu Picchu - Scott and I didn't bother the word "walk" is now an anethma to us.

All in all it was excellent well worth it - except we can't help thinking we would have been more impressed if we had had some sleep, didn't feel so stiff, stinky and eaten alive by mozzies. But we'll never know.

So here we are - back in lovely Cuzco having had showers at last. And proper food. Relaxing.

Shame to hear the weather back home is horrid already. (Big sigh) We'll be heading off to some beaches hopefully soon!
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18 Oct 2002: Cuzco, Peru

Been doing lots of trekking and travelling over the last week.
Heard about the Bali bombings just yesterday - how terrible. We haven't seen any news on it really just what we heard from other people. We are keeping safe as possible and we have met up with some nice people so we are usually in a group and not just the two of us (most of the time).
It was my birthday the last day and I was a little miffed. I needn't have been when I returned from emailing Scott had snuck out to buy me a lovely bracelet and a gorgeous card. (Apparently this took a lot of strength and diocalm to achieve). So as I predicted he was forgiven straight away.

I decided to pop out again and treat myself to a croissant and a hot chocolate (it was my birthday) in this bakery I had seen a few blocks away. I was sitting there enjoying myself when I started to feel all dizzy and light headed. So I ordered some water and drank a little of that. Decided to head back to hotel, but started to faint and then passed out in the doorway of this shop. This woman came up and asked me what was wrong and tried to bring me around smelling some whiskey? I made it into the shop and blacked out in front of the counter. When I came too again there were 5 people standing round fanning me! Apparently it is quite common for foreigners to feel the affect of altitude in this way. I had been absoluetly fine before this and in the psace of 15 mins passed out! A really nice tourist policewoman got into a taxi with me and escorted me back to the hotel. I decided it was safest to get into bed behind Scott and we both went asleep. When we woke up we watched films on cable tv. So that was my birthday! But at least I was with the one I love (soppy I know!).

We delayed our trip to the Colca Canyon coz we were both off colour and went on Saturday instead. Scott got better and then I got diarrhoea. God it was awful for 3 days I felt really dodgy. Scott thought I was like a Pringles packet - you know the slogan 'once you pop...you can't stop'. Never had that before in Mexico - I though I had an iron stomach. I was very wrong. Has given me a chance to read a lot of my Oscar Wilde book that mum bought me - very good.
It was nice to spend a few extra days in Arequipa acclimatising and chilling out. It also gave us a chance to do some shopping for warmer clothes. I got some hiking boots in the market for 40 soles which is about 12 euros, then I got another fleece and scott got a warmer jumper. For a delayed birthday meal we went for a nice Mexican meal.
So headed off for Canyon on what was the bumpiest 6 hour bus journey ever! The views were great but my god how many people can fit on one bus. I had an old man practically sitting on my lap while he tried to get past all the people getting on. Finally got to Cabanaconde and saw a fabulous sunset - the hostal there was much nicer than we had expected and we met a nice coupel there from Birmingham. They are heading to Chile and Oz too so we are hoping to meet up with them again somewhere en route.

Day 1 - Trek down canyon (about 1000 people live there). First 3 and a half hours easy peasy. I was surprised I was doing so well. We got all the way down the canyon then crossed the small bridge over the river. Then my heart packed up and I couldn't move! God it was so hard climbing up and it was only half an hour the other side. Scott was a great help I think the sun (40 degrees) and the altitude were killers. Stopped at a small village down the canyon - No electricity, water comes from the mountain via a man made aqueduct. Really beautiful scenery. Headed on to another village where we stayed the night in relative comfort on bamboo beds in a shack. Met a really nice Swiss couple.

Day 2 - Walked down to the Oasis at the bottom of the canyon. It was a beautiful day and we basically swam and sunbathed. Unfortunately our super dooper sun lotion doesn't appear to withstand the pressures of 40 degrees and swimming - so we got sunburnt (sorry sue I know you're annoyed!). Went for a walk down to the river - thought we might see some fish, Scott saw a snake instead and got a good piccie. He nearly fell in - I was so hoping he would coz I was filming - never mind!

Day 3 - Got up at 2am to walk back up. It is too hot during the day to do this, we paid the mule man to take our backpacks up on the mule so all we had to do was walk. It took us 3 hours and again the last 15 minutes were the worst. Scott was great and held my hand practically dragging me up the last few bends. Felt great, but we were so stiff and cold and tired afterwards. All worthwhile coz we so appreciated a hot shower and clean clothes. So I should be a size 10 now (but I am not (yet)).

Went back to Arequipa for one night then we got another 6 hour bus journey to Puno to meet up with the others - 2 Belgian girls Jo and Griet and an Ozzie guy, James. Together we have travelled by train to Cuzco. Where we are right now. It is so beautiful this place - we can see why it is the most often visited place in Peru. There are small cobbledy streets, fountains, great architecture and great backdrops of mountains. Today we have booked our trip to Machu Picchu - managed to find somewhere that was pretty reasonable we had quotes for the 4 day trip from 150 US dollars to 245 USD. We went with the 150 - they showed us photos and we coulsn't spot any differences, so we head off Monday. This is meant to be another hard climb on the 2nd day so I'm glad we have had some practice.
We are currently at an altitude of 3400 metres above sea level and you can really feel it. I am panting when we walk up any hills... the trek reaches 4200m so I'm a little worried! Even Scott is feeling short of breath. Though he manages to dodge the restaurant touts pretty well. It has been hilarious in Arequipa and here they must earn commission and run from the other side of the road to convince you to walk in - there was practically a cat fight one time! Today we had the best cheap meal yet 7 soles for the set menu (2 euros) - included soup, fruit juice, garlic bread and main course, fillet chciken and chips or beef stir fry. We were so full. Our hotel is cheap too at only 25 soles we have been paying 40 soles per night before now. Trouble is when everything is cheap you tend to get "Maisie Shopping Syndrome" - termed after my mum shopping in the sales. She saves hundreds of pounds, but still manages to spend hundreds of pounds!
Our Spanish has been coming on very well - Scott can understand most of what people are explaining but is learning more words to reply. I have been complimented on my Spanish a couple of times - I was well chuffed. I have become our Group Speaker - when we are pissed off or want to negotiate a price they all mumble among themselves and then tell me to tell them we want a discount! So I look like the bad guy - no not really but it is quite funny.
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09 Oct 2002: Arequipa, Peru

��eliz cumplea��s a mi! ��eliz cumplea��s a mi! ��eliz cumplea��s a mmmiiii! ��eliz cumplea��s a mi! Hoy, tengo 27 a��s.
For those of you who didn't get that - it's my birthday. Thank you for all the lovely emails I have had already. I miss you all and hope that you will have a drink thinking of me tonight.
Today we are in Arequipa which is a really lovely town in Peru, we have been on the road constantly since arrivig in Lima so it is nice to chill out for a few days. Very necessary too - we are at an altitude of 2200 metres - so we are both feeling a little lightheaded and breathless. Jo - one of the Belgian girls we have been travelling with has picked up some sort of bug, we are planning a trek into the Colca Canyon soon but may have to delay if we're not feeling well too.
For those of you that managed to give me a card before I came away thank you very much I opened them today - and cried (with happiness!). Elaine & Spin (Scott's mum and dad) got me a really lovely one with a nice verse and my sister too - so that was it, homesick again! Scott didn't get me anything for my birthday - not even a card so he is in the bad books this morning. He is back at the hostal I believe sitting on the WC - seems he has caught some sort of bug aswell - Delhi Belly or whatever the Peruvian equivalent is. I like to think that it is a little gift from those above who are thinking of me! He feels pretty bad (in every sense) so I won't let him suffer too long.
Our room at the hostal is lovely, we have a very small balcony - only it seems to be on a corner of a very busy street so earplugs again. Only thing is there are a few glass panels missing from the bathroom door - so if anyone knows a glazier???
I haven't had a chance to speak to my niece yet on the phone but it is very difficult coz of the delay on the line. But she told her mum the best way to contact me is at lorraine dot com. I love her!
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07 Oct 2002: Nazca, Peru
Been a few days since we last updated and so much has happened.
We found the sunshine at last. From Lima we got on a bus to Pisco - where we took a tour out to see the Islas Ballestas - some islands off the coast that had some fabulous wildlife - sealions, peruvian boobies (type of bird!), penguin (only saw one), falmingoes from a watch tower, etc. Got some good photos and hopefully can upload to the website soon. Boat ride was a bit choppy but luckily breathing throgh mouth helped me - Scott was totally fine! My hero! Have met two lovely Belgian girls who we have been travelling with and they seem to be on the same path we are. In the afternoon we went to Paracas National Park - beautiful beach and cave met a young Ozzie guy who is making his way to England - Peter D I said for him to contact you once he gets to London - so take him under your pub wing - he says he can play pool.
From Pisco we went to Huacachina near Ica where you can hire sandboards and go sandboarding! We had to wait until 4pm coz the sand gets so hot - real sunshine at last! Well Scott found his feet pretty quicly and was whizzing down the sand dunes, while I was still wheezing my way up them! It was bloody hard to walk up sand dunes - I have true admiration for the French Foreign Legion now! On the way down Scott went down the steepest slope and aced it until half way down where he did a half somersault, ate a mouthful of sand and stopped. But in true Siery style he got up and whizzed off down to the bottom again!
Then had to rush off get another bus to Nazca - we booked to go on a tour of the Nazca lines, which we did today. The trip was 50 US dollars per person and included a night in the hotel and continental breakfast, we met people who did it cheaper I think that is inevitable with these trips, but not by much. This morning up early went to ariport, then sat around for 4 and a half hours before finally going up in the small Cessna plane - only room for 3 people plus pilot. It was a first for Scott and me, the Nazca lines are only really visible from the sky which is why we took the flight and they are meant to be approx 2000 years old. It was good and we enjoyed it but it was certainly bumpy and I definitely looked green around the gills. Scott again was fine. I am beginning to think he is invincible!
After the tour we went to a cemetery - pretty morbid I know but the bodies of these people have been totally preserved in the desert for thousands of years - they have really long rasta hair and quite a few still had their own teeth!
We are starting to get a bit of colour now for me a darker shade of cream and for Scott light brown. Just waiting for a night bus now which will take us to Arequipa, hopefully we will email a bit more and get cracking on the postcards. My birthday on the 9th so we will call home to speak to mums and dads then.
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04 Oct 2002: Lima, Peru
We have made it to Peru and in style!!
When we went to get our flight they told us at check in that the flight was overbooked. I wasn't too panicked coz I knew something would be sorted out. But then we were left hanging about for a while and we didn't fancy spending the night in Madrid again even if Iberia were paying for it. Then they told us to go through to the gate and see if anyone didn't turn up - we did and got booked into business class!! Yes that's right - leg room you wouldn't believe and 4 course meal - own individual tv screen, etc - it was hell...we kept expecting to be chucked out of the seats and scott didn't stop grinning for the first 6 hours! 12 hours later we landed, still feeling crap despite the luxury. So thank you for our lucky medals and blessings and angels that people have bought us. We felt blessed yesterday.
So we are in Lima at the moment and have had a nice walk around already this morning but we are ken to head on out - it is just a city after all. So we are heading out to a place called Pisco where you can get boats out to the islands that have penguins and flamingos - we'll let you know. Next Weds is my birthday not sure where we'll be for that, hopefully a nice hotel and meal (and present scott!) hint hint.
The hostel we are in is okay we were met at the airport by the guy who runs it which was a god send in itself we were far too shattered to be astute enought to work out where we were going. And Karl just so you know we both had showers this morning and are not 'soap dodging' just yet.
Thank god there don't seems to be any mozzies here. Lima is very busy and noisy. There seems to be a fine grey mist hovering above us supposedly it last for 9 months of the year up until November. There are 8 million people in Lima but apparently in just the 1920s there was 120,000 so you can imagine how haphazard it is - that is like Luton becoming London in 80 years!
Off now to find a beach and some sunshine - judging by the emails we have got everyone in the UK has been getting it but us (ooh arr) even Manchester had some sol!
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02 Oct 2002: Madrid, Spain
Well we got here. The hostel we are staying in is nice the people are really friendly. It is pretty basic but we have our own room and bathroom.
The first day the weather was nice and warm yesterday it rained all day and today is grey (but at least it isn�� raining - sound familiar!). So come on Peru and long live good weather.
We have been walking everywhere which has been great and got to see the sights but to be honest Madrid is another city (albeit pretty) and we are keen to move on. We were hoping to learn the tango but haven�� found anywhere yet. Have eaten paella, tapas, etc - found an Irish pub and had a drink in there too! Got to stick to your roots.
I don�� know if it�� the altitude or the walking but we have been pretty tired and taking advantage of the siestas! In more ways than one.
Have been to the Royal Palace - very ostentatious, the upholstery was unreal. The walls were covered in fabric with the royal crest (sue - tell francis he would have loved it). Also went to the prado museum which was very nice - huge lots of pictures, but my contact lenses were playing me up so we didn�� exactly check out every room and I am sure that we didn�� see the most famous pictures. There was quite a rude one - it is meant to be some sort of religious picture but basically it was the Virigin Mary squeezing her boob and an arch of milk goes into the mouth of some person sitting at an altar - he was probably made a saint because of this miracle.
looking forward to peru - the hostel we are booked into will be collecting us from the airport which is a relief because after the long flight i don�� think either of us will be in any fit state to think.
To those of you who came to the party(s) - fantastic and it was great to see you again. Sherona�� rendition of Bob the Builder will go down in history and we can�� wait to show it to her first boyfriend.
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07 July 2002:
2 great things happened today - William Miller was born! - Congratulations Tracey, Alistair and Alex on the New addition.
AND.....Scott proposed!! He bought me a fabulous princess cut diamond in a white gold twist and got down on one knee while we were at the beach. And I said YES!!!!....And they all lived happily ever after - ahhh!

06 July 2002:

Itinerary - booked our flights!
DATE DEPART DESTINATION
30 September 2002 London Madrid, Spain
3 October 2002 Madrid Lima, Peru
Overland travelling through Peru, Brazil, Argentina and Chile
18 December 2002 Santiago, Chile Easter Island
22 December 2002 Easter Island Tahiti
30 December 2002 Tahiti Auckland, New Zealand
Overland travelling around New Zealand for 4 months
1 May 2003 Christchurch, New Zealand Cairns, Australia
Overland working and travelling in Oz until the money runs out!


RETURN - at the moment vague but hoping to return back through China catch the Trans-Siberian railway home.

BACK TO REALITY - sometime in 2004, if we don't get too homesick or too poor!


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