Trinidad and Tobago are only just off the coast of Venezuela, yet they share little of the culture of South America. The people are a cosmopolitan mix of African, East Indian, Chinese, white and Syrian and their music, cuisine, culture, society and politics reflect the amalgamation of those races through conflict and harmony. Trinidad’s carnival is world famous and attracts thousands of visitors but its wealth comes from oil, gas and manufacturing rather than tourism and so its beaches remain empty and unspoilt. Beach tourism has been developed on the smaller, sister island of Tobago, where hotels are spreading around the coastline, but there are still glorious bays and coves and resorts are low key. Both islands have a large area of protected rainforest, home to a huge array of flora and fauna, and birdwatching is a major attraction. Together the islands have more species of birds than any other Caribbean Island, the variety being South American rather than West Indian.

beaches

The best beaches on Trinidad are on the north coast and the views from the coastal road are spectacular as you drive through forest and look down on sandy bays and rocky promontories. Close to Port of Spain Maqueripe Bay has a sheltered beach. Maracas Bay, 10 miles/16 km from the capital, has a sheltered sandy beach fringed with coconut palms; despite small waves there can be a dangerous undertow here and at other beaches and drownings have occurred, do not swim far out and watch the markers. Lifeguards are on duty until 1800 at weekends and holidays; there are changing rooms, showers etc, car parking and cabanas for beach vendors. Try ‘shark-and-bake’, shark meat in a heavy fried dough, a Maracas speciality, or the ‘shark and bread’, a roll with shark meat in it, very tasty, especially after a drinking session at 0300, sold all along the beach. Maracas Bay Hotel opened in 1996 and a few people rent out basic rooms in the village, ask at the small shop. There are buses to Maracas Bay running every four hours (but they can be irregular) from the bus terminal. Easy at weekends but less frequent during the week. Difficulties in catching the bus have led travellers to recommend car hire or taxis: from Port of Spain costs US$25 or there is a pick-up ‘route taxi’ service from the centre of town, TT$10. Another method is maxi-taxi to Maraval then four-wheel drive jeep to Maracas, irregular, get back in good time. The jeep may go right into Port of Spain but do not rely on it.

Next to Maracas Bay is Tyrico Bay (surfing, lifeguard, another horseshoe-shaped beach with a dangerous undertow and sandflies). Las Cuevas, also on the north coast (like Maracas Bay there are changing rooms, showers, lifeguards, surfing is good here but beware of the sandflies in the wet season), is a picturesque bay with fishing boats moored at one end. It can get crowded at weekends but is empty during the week. Blanchisseuse beach has a sweet water lagoon where the river runs into the sea and the place is kept clean by the owners of Cocos Hut restaurant who are establishing a 28-acre nature reserve on the banks of the river. There are lots of birds but also mosquitoes and sandflies. Leatherback turtles come on to Blanchisseuse beach in the nesting season but most of the eggs are eaten by dogs. At the northeast end, near Toco, are a number of bays, including Balandra for good bathing. For Toco, get an express bus or highway maxi to Arima, then route taxi to Sangre Grande, then taxi to Toco.

Further down, the Atlantic coast from Matura to Mayaro is divided into three huge sweeping bays, with palm trees growing as high as 200ft in some places. Of these bays Mayaro and Manzanilla both have beautiful sandy beaches, but be careful of the Atlantic currents, swimming can be dangerous. There are several beach houses to rent at Mayaro, heavily booked in peak holiday periods, some are poor, check beforehand. Manzanilla has new public facilities and one hotel. From nearby Brigand Hill Lighthouse, a TSTT signal station, you can get a wonderful view of the east coast, the Nariva Swamp and much of Trinidad. Light patches of green are rice fields encroaching on the swamp. In the southwest, near La Brea and the Pitch Lake is the resort of Vessigny. The southwest, or Cedros, peninsula is a three-hour car trip from Port of Spain to the unspoilt beaches and miles of coconut palm plantations. Generally, the beaches are difficult to get to except by taxi or car.

Tobago is noted for its beaches, two of the best being only minutes from the airport: Store Bay, popular with locals, lots of vendors, food stalls and glass bottom boats; and Pigeon Point, a picture postcard beach fringed with palms with calm, shallow water protected by Buccoo Reef. You have to pay to use the beach (TT$10), but you get changing facilities, umbrellas and beach bars. Here also there are lots of glass bottom boats going out to Buccoo Reef and a catamaran for coastal tours and swimming in the Nylon Pool, a shallow area offshore. Other good beaches on the leeward side of the island are Stone Haven Bay, Mount Irvine Bay and Courland Bay, one of the longest. All have resort hotels and watersports. Englishman’s Bay is another lovely bay, with the forest coming down to the beach and a river running into the sea. The east-coast is more rugged and windswept, with cliffs and coves carved out by the Atlantic Ocean. Hillsborough Bay, just outside Scarborough, has a glorious long beach with overhanging palms, but the sea is dangerous because of rip tides. Do not swim there. Big Bacolet Bay, also known as Minister Bay, is great for surfing, body surfing and boogie boarding, but watch out for the currents. In the northeast, King’s Bay has a beach bar, toilets and huts for shade. There is a signpost to the beach, almost opposite the track to King’s Bay Waterfall. Speyside and Charlotteville both have protected bays, from the former you can take glass bottom boat trips to Little Tobago with bird-watching, walking and snorkelling included (about US$12.50) and from the latter you can walk to Pirate’s Bay through the forest. Snorkelling is good on the reef here.

Pigeon point beach

Manzanilla beach

Maracas beach

entertainment

Though not as lively as Trinidad, Tobago offers dancing in its hotels. The Buccoo Folk Theatre gives an attractive show of dancing and calypso every Thu at 2100. There is a Tobago Folk Performing Company. In Scarborough, El Tropical is a club frequented mostly by locals. It has a live show every Sat night at about 2330. Also JG’s Disco, nightly. Michael’s Bar, Black Rock, recommended for friendly evening entertainment. The Starting Gate Pub, Shirvan Rd, is recommended. Look in on the entertainment spots in the Crown Point area – Copra Tray at Store Bay Local Rd; The Deep, Sandy Point Village and Toucan Inn and Bonkers, Store Bay Local Rd. There are also the Golden Star, Milford Rd, Store Bay and The Lush, Shirvan Rd, Store Bay. Don’t miss Sunday School on Buccoo Beach, a big party starting early every Sunday evening with live music, followed at about 2300 by a DJ playing until early in the morning. Entertainment is available every night of Tobago Race Week, mostly at Crown Point but also at Grafton Beach or Grand Courlan hotels.

Cinema: The cinema in Scarborough is good value, US$1.10 for two films, but the audience can be a bit noisy. On a quieter level, the Public Library in Charlotteville is stocked with all the literature in the English language you ever wanted to read and some German books too.

Bars & Clubs: Trinidad abounds in evening entertainment. Monday local song and dance at the Hilton is less authentic in atmosphere than the steel band concerts on Friday at the same venue. Entrance US$2. For those wishing to visit the places where the local, rather than tourist, population go, anyone in the street will give directions. Though the atmosphere will be natural and hospitality generous, it will not be luxurious and the local rum is likely to flow. Chaconia on Saddle Rd has live music on Friday and Saturday. Moon Over Bourbon Street, West Mall, has a cocktail lounge and live local entertainment at weekends. The Bel Air near the airport has live entertainment on Saturday night. Other discos and clubs including Cascade Club, music for dancing on Friday and entertainment on Saturday, near Normandy Motel, St Ann’s. The Anchorage, Point Gourde Rd, live bands Friday, Saturday, also at Pier One and the Base, just opposite, Small Boats, Chaguaramas. The Parrot, Grand Bazaar, Uria Butler Highway, Valsayn. The Golden Star, Store Bay, good disco, the Upper Level Club, West Mall, Westmoorings. The Attic Pub, Shoppes of Maraval, Saddle Rd. Club Coconuts in Cascadia Hotel, St Ann’s, disco, popular with young people. Chameleon, Valpark Shopping Plaza, Valsayn. MOBS Two, Chaguaramas. The Pickle House, Abercromby St, orange building, different types of music on different nights, New Orleans jazz, rhythm and blues, local music, Latin American and panang in the run up to Christmas. The Tunnel, 89 Union Rd, Marabella near San Fernando and in Chaguanas. For spicier entertainment, go to the International (Wrightson Rd). Mas Camp Pub, Woodbrook. Nightly entertainment including calypso and steel band, best place to see live calypso out of season (cover charge usually US$2). The Silver Stars Steel Orchestra (formed in the 1950s) can occasionally be seen in rehearsal (check beforehand) at the Panyard, 56 Tragarete Rd, Newtown, Woodbrook, Port of Spain. Silver Stars plays at local parties, cruise ships or on the beach, workshops for individuals or groups can be arranged, contact Michael Figuera, T/F6287550. For late drinking and music, Pelican (down hill from Hilton), 2-4 Coblentz Av, Cascade, T6247486. Lively, good crowds especially Fri, Sat, open from 1800. Also lively, Smokey and Bunty’s in St James. St James is normally livelier at night than Port of Spain.

Theatres: Queen’s Hall, 1-3 St Ann’s Rd; Little Carib, White and Roberts Streets; Central Bank Auditorium, Eric Williams Plaza, Edward St. In San Fernando, Naparima Bowl reopened after a lengthy period of renovation; the folk theatre of the South National Institute of Performing Arts

Cinemas: Two cinemas: Globe and Strand, at Park Plaza on Park St and Tragarete Rd. Another cinema, De Luxe, at north end of Frederick St. They are very cheap and occasionally show something good. Audiences are audibly enthusiastic, particularly for sex and violence.

food and drinks

Port of Spain: At the main hotels where you can expect to pay US$15 in a nice setting with imaginative menus, eg Tiki Village in the Kapok Hotel, T6226441. Serves good Polynesian and Chinese food, nice Chinese lunchtime buffet. The Hilton Sunday brunch buffet is good value at TT$66 plus 15% VAT and 10% service and use of pool, the food here is of an international standard but breakfast is uninspiring often with stale bakeries despite popularity as business meeting place. Rafters, 6 Warner St, Newtown, T6289258. Pasta, burgers, salads or more elaborate local and seafood, good, bar and restaurant have different menus. Recommended. In the Normandie complex, Nook Av, La Fantasie, for fine dining, T6241181, and Café Trinidad, lovely baking smell, good for breakfast or tea, both pricey. Also outside, The Breakfast Shed, women come from the main location to serve lunch. Boticelli at the City of Brand Bazaar, Valsayn, T6458733. Apsara, an Indian restaurant at the Grand Bazaar shopping complex just outside Port of Spain. Le Chateau de Poisson, 30 Ariapita Av. Specializes in seafood, T6226087. Veni Mangé, 67A Ariapita Av, T6244597. Small, friendly, good food include vegetarian dishes. Open Mon-Fri 1130-1430, dinner Wed only 1930-2230. Il Colosseo, 47 Ariapita Av, T6233654. Good Italian food. Tamnak Thai, 13 Queens Park East, T6250647. First attempt to introduce Thai food into Trinidad, with chefs imported from Bangkok. Roxan’s, Corner Ariapita Av and O’Connor St, Woodbrook, T6224425. A new Arabic restaurant closer to the downtown area. Nouvelle Creole, corner of Ariapita and Corinth, Woodbrook. Well-prepared, nice formal service, in elegantly restored gingerbread house, about TT$70 for lunch including beer and coffee. Kam Wah, 74-76 Maraval Rd. Developing a reputation as not just another Chinese restaurant. Little Lisbon, Long Circular Rd. Brought Portuguese food to Trinidad. The Rotisserie, Long Circular Rd. The Swan Chinese Restaurant, Maraval Rd. Smart, but good value restaurants including Woodford Café, 62 Tragarete Rd. Open 1100-2200, Mon-Sat, Creole fare, US$4-6, T6222233. At 6 Nook Av is Solimar, T6246267. International, reasonable prices, good service, outdoor dining, excellent food, reservations advisable and essential at weekends. Ali Baba, T6225557, on first floor level in Royal Palm Plaza shopping mall on Saddle Rd, Maraval. Open-air dining with a roof, Arabic and other dishes, US$10 and upwards, excellent service, popular, run by a Lebanese, Joe. Nearby, in the Royal Palm Suite Hotel is the Buccaneer’s Cove restaurant, specializing in international and local food, T6285086, and next door is the A Pang Chinese restaurant, T6227212. Gourmet Club, upstairs at Ellerslie Plaza, Maraval, T6285113. Italian, expensive but good, nice decor, open 1100-2300 weekdays, Saturday 1800-2300. Café Gordon, 39A Gordon St, T6275514. Breakfast 0730-1100, lunch 1100-1500, small, pleasant, Indian-owned, different lunch menu every day with choice of 2 dishes, usually TT$10. If you’ve a yen for the best pepper shrimps in the Caribbean, the Chinese Hong Kong City Restaurant, 86A Tragarete Rd, is the place, good food but rather snooty service. Asian Moon, 37 Henry St, Port of Spain, T6232467. Another of the many Chinese restaurants, its attraction is its central location. Davises, 100 Oxford St, T6250144. Specializes in ‘new island cuisine’, combining classical gourmet cooking with fresh local ingredients. Jenny’s on the Boulevard, 6 Cipriani Blvd. Wide variety of dishes, but try the crab back. Buccoo Rouge, Level 2, West Mall, Westmoorings, T6324072. Good French cuisine and seafood.

Chaguaramas: Pier One, T6344472, F6344556. Like country club, restaurant, conference facilities, family club, marina, seafood, live entertainment at weekends, open 1100-2300, popular at weekends, pool, kayaks, dinghies, fishing area. Anchorage, Point Gourde Rd, T6344334. For seafood, open 1100-2400 Mon-Sat, dancing, live entertainment some evenings, popular with yachties. Pisces, TTYC. Moderately priced local food and special nights, call for reservations. Windjammers, TTYA. Fast food and inexpensive local dishes after sailing with TTYA members. The Bight, Peake’s, bar and restaurant with outdoor dining overlooking the Chaguaramas anchorage.

TRINIDAD AND TOBAGO
CREATE BY SOMALIA JOSEPH, kutumutu2@hotmail.com