The MonkeyHut
The MonkeyHut is a half-cylinder, �quanset hut� style shade structure. This particular plan has a 10 x 12� footprint but, as you�ll see, the tunnel form allows you to extend the length of the Hut to your liking. The optional shade flap is used to cover your tent if you don�t plan to set your tent up directly beneath the Hut structure (last year, I used the Hut as a porch, placing my tent behind the structure and laying the flap over the top.)
Ingredients:

� 6 - 10� x 1� schedule 40 PVC
� 2 - 10� x 1�� schedule 40 PVC
� 2 - 1�� T-connector
� 1 - 1�� X-connector
� 6 - 2� x �� rebar
� 1 - 10� x 20� tarp(heavy duty silver)
� Bungie cords(4' long)
� 20+ - Bungie balls
� Duct tape


Optional shade flap :


� 2 - 10� x 1� schedule 40 PVC
� 1 - 2�� x 1�� schedule 40 PVC
� 2 - 2� x �� rebar
� 1 - 10� x 20� tarp(heavy duty silver)
Staying cool after a long night
What you�re building is a ribcage with the 1� pipes as the ribs and the 1�� pipes as the spine. The use of duct tape allows overlapping pieces to fit snug onto one another. You'll have to play with the amount of tape to get these pieces to fit right. If you do all your taping, build all your connectors, etc. before going out to the playa, you'll simply have to slide all your pieces together once on site.

Preliminary

Cut one 10� x 1�� PVC pipe in half. Cut the other into four 2�� pieces. Three of these you�ll use as connectors. Take
two of the 2�� connectors and wrap duct tape around their middles as in Image 1a. Slide a T-connector onto each over the duct tape--there should be enough tape to make the fit snug.(see Image 1b.) Repeat this process with the third 2�� connector, this time sliding the X-connector onto it.

Lay out two 1� pipes end to end. Where they meet, measure out 15� in both directions and, just inside those points, wrap the pipes with duct tape. (see image 2a.) Now slide the pipe connector onto the 1� pipe so its end just covers the tape. It should fit snug. If not, use more duct tape. Take the other 1� pipe and slide into the other end of the connector. (see image 2b.) You�ve made your first rib! Repeat this twice more with the 2 remaining connectors so that you have 3 ribs, each 20� long, 2 with T-connectors and one with an X-connector.

Take the two 5� lengths of 1�� PVC and wrap duct tape around both ends. As the spine, these will slide into the T and X-connectors, holding the ribs in place. (see Images 3a and 3b.) 

On Site


Mark out a 10' x 12' footprint. Down each 10-foot side, mark off the midpoint. Hammer in a piece of rebar at these two spots and at each corner of the footprint. Rebar should be one foot deep into the ground.

Take the rib with the X-connector on it and slide one end of it onto one of the midpoint pieces of rebar. Pull the other end of the rib, which is now facing skyward, down so that the pipe arches. Slide this end of the rib onto the rebar on the opposite side of the footprint. Repeat this with the T-connector ribs on the outer sets of rebar.

Use the 5' lengths to create the spine and connect all the ribs. (see Image 4.)

Use the bungie cords to secure the spine. Wrap one bungie around the first rib as close to the spine connection as possible, hooking the bungie onto itself. Pull the other end of the cord to the second, or middle, rib and secure it near the spine connection. Duplicate this from the second rib to the third. The frame should now be stable and ready for the tarp.
Click to enlarge
Image 1a
Image 1b
Image 2a
Image 2b
Image 3a
Image 3b
Image 4
Coverage

Pull the tarp over the frame and secure it to the first and third ribs with bungie balls. You can also use zip-ties. Either will draw the tarp taut and create solid shade and great protection from the elements.

I recommend paying a few bucks more for the heavy duty silver tarps. These are thick and reflect the sun. Definitely don't use blue tarps. They're too thin and make a great deal of noise in the wind.
The finished product!
Click here for optional shade flap instructions!
Hosted by www.Geocities.ws

1