Designing women

By Reena Gurbaksh

Photographs by Ray Lee shot at The Roof in Bangsar, Kuala Lumpur, and courtesy of the designers. Hairstyling and makeup by Orson Liyu.

DESIGNER siblings Beatrice and Melinda Looi may look alike at a glance, share the same surname and have a common love for fashion, but that's where the similarity ends. In fact, if you were to pick at the hems of their chosen profession, you'd realise they couldn't differ more. Older sister Beatrice grew up helping their dressmaker mother and always wanted to be a designer herself, but Melinda claims that though her first love was graphic design she ended up designing clothes because of the family-run fashion wholesale business, called Gordon Apparel. Beatrice prefers "simple, fuss-free styles" and cites Donna Karan as her favourite couturier, while Melinda is inspired most by the eccentric Jean Paul Gaultier and loves ensembles that verge on the theatrical. "I think Gaultier is great because his styles are very different, and I would love to work for him," says the younger sister. Also, while Beatrice's creations are often infused with colour, Melinda prefers to stick to the more sombre tones of black and brown. Such are the tell-tale signs of the sisters' differing personalities.

A midriff-barring top and see-through pants reveals the more daring side of Beatrice Looi.

Beatrice, is tall, fair and vivacious, whereas the tanned and petite Melinda, is reticent and talks only when spoken to. During the photo shoot and interview, Beatrice quickly made friends and chatted away happily. Melinda, on the other hand, was more reserved than usual, owing to a bout of flu.

Melinda uses faux fur and jersey for this dramatic off shoulder dress.

However, it was apparent that they share a sisterly bond as they quietly went about helping each other dress the model for the shoot. (It must be said though that this is not one case where older sister calls the shots; Melinda is steadfast and determined and knows exactly what she wants!) Despite being total opposites, the sisters take their careers very seriously and agree that their mother was the best teacher and had given them invaluable advice on the finer points of designing. "Although she had no formal training, her cutting is the best I've seen, and as a child, I used to watch her make beautiful clothes for her customers," says Beatrice. In her heyday, Mum sewed clothes for the wives of diplomats and Beatrice recalls "big cars with red number plates always driving up to the house." "Of course I had no idea who they were then, although all my friends used to say, 'Wah, your mother's so famous'," she jests. The eldest of six children, Beatrice attended classes at a local design school after finishing her formal education. She then joined the family business. "I started off designing women's dresses and workwear for the local market and, looking back, the first few creations were a bit 'auntie' and so ladylike. I think I've come a long way since then," she laughs.

Melinda managed to get a dose of foreign exposure while still in design school when she won the Moda (Malaysian Official Designers Association) Young Designers competition in 1995, and was sponsored to complete her course in Montreal, Canada. "Going to design school there wasn't very different, except that we had to learn how to make winter clothes and raincoats which we don't get to do here," says the young lady who in 1995 emerged second runner-up in the Asean Young Designers Contest in Singapore and received the Cotton Award at the Young Designers Contest in Japan. In 1997, she won first prize at the Vo Lait (White Creations) contest in Montreal. While studying in Canada, she worked part-time making costumes for movies and TV series which she enjoyed tremendously. After her course, she worked for a year with Marie Saint Pierre, one of the country's top designers. "I wouldn't say it was difficult working for her because I was used to working with my mum, but what it did teach me was independence," she says. Melinda returned to Malaysia last year and immediately went to work with Mum and Beatrice at Gordon Apparel (in fact, all but one sibling works with the family business).

Left : Cheongsam with a difference by Beatrice Looi. Right : This simple yet elegant evening dress reflects Beatrice's forte.

The stuff of fantasies... a warrior princess gown by Melinda Looi.

Beatrice now assists her mother in designing evening dresses for export to the United States, EU and Middle East, but occasionally squeezes in a collection of her own in major fashion events. "I also do a small ready-to-wear collection (under the edc beatrice looi tag) which sells at a few local boutiques, but apart from that, I'm too busy with the foreign buyers to do more. What I'd really love to design is fancy party wear," she says. Melinda feels very much the same. "I'm now in charge of production and have little time to concentrate on anything else. I am, however, working very hard to come up with my own line and eventually open my own store." The collection pictured here is the first she's done since her return. Whatever their plans for the future, this stylish duo are certainly already making their presence felt in the local fashion industry.