| B A L L - P Y T H O N S | ||||||||
| Daytime Temp: 80 - 85 F (27 - 29 C), with a warm side of around 90 F (32 C), although i have found that these snakes are equally as comfortable in 80 degree weather or so, however younger snakes need higher temperatures. Nighttime Temp: Temperatures can fall to around 75 F (23 -24 C). Heating Equipment: An under the tank heating pad designed for reptiles works well for providing the cage heat on the warm side. DO NOT! I repeat, DO NOT! Use a heat lamp, as it will stress the snake, these are nocturnal animals, meaning bright lights will stress them. Lighting Equipment: None needed. However, if you wish to view your snake better at night, you may use a very low wattage red or black bulb. Humidity Needed: Some owners like to provide a covered dish (e.g. plastic storage container) with a hole in the lid, to provide security for the snake so it will soak longer if necessary. Another alternative is to provide a humidity retreat, which similarly uses a covered container with an access hole lined with damp sphagnum moss to provide the moisture (a water dish is still provided outside the retreat). Another way to reach the desired level would be a small amount of natural moss scattered throughout the tank, lightly misting the moss daily will raise the humidity level. Water & Food Needs: Please provide a water dish large enough for the snake to soak in, should be changed daily or every other day. Ball pythons can be fed exclusively small to medium sized rats (as appropriate for the size of the snake), and only need to be fed every week or two. Young snakes should be fed fuzzy rats or small mice every 5-7 days, some people prefer pre killed or frozen prey. I myself feed live or freshly killed to ensure maximum vitamins for the snake, however if you do choose to feed live to your snake, never leave the snake unsupervised until the prey is dead. Ball Pythons can be quite picky, however not all of them are, this is a common myth, if your Ball Python stops eating for no apparent reason, a Gerbil is sure to get it going again.. Assuming there is nothing medically wrong. However there are some Ball Pythons who simply are healthy and will even turn down a Gerbil, they merely decide to go off feed for a few extra weeks or monthes, as long as body weight is close to maintained, this is no need for worry, just keep trying them with food. Housing Needs: Ball pythons are not terribly active snakes, so a smaller enclosure is fine (10-20 gallon tank for younger snakes, 30 gallon tank for an adult). However, they are adept escape artists, so a securely fitted top is an absolutely necessary. Contrary to popular belief amongst so called experts, Ball Pythons don't need to be housed seperately as long as all are healthy, eating well and a large enough tank is provided. These snakes need a hide box, which can be as simple as a large enough card board box with a hole cut into it. Cypress Mulch is a nice substrate for them, as it's easy to bury themselves into if they so desire and it holds humidity well when lightly misted. Eco-Earth is also a great substrate for them, holds humidity much better then Cypress Mulch, is safe to digest if they do so accidently and is easy for them to burrow into. Reptile Carpet works well too, and is very easy to clean. It's all a matter of personal opinion, but never use Cedar or similar woods. Provide sturdy branches and plenty of foliage, as these snakes like to climb.. Not all will, but give them the option to atleast. Size & Temperment: These snakes are quite shy at first and rarely, if ever, bite. Females average 5 to 6 feet, males average 4 to 5 feet. |
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| Hannibal after a meal | ||||||||
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